Synthetic Oil

Jstas

steveinaz wrote: »

No worries, Rotella T synthetic (5W-40) has no friction modifiers and is specifically recommended for wet-clutch applications. I also used it in the past with high-strung 600cc sportbikes, for the same reason.

The friction modifiers aren't the concern. The concern is that Rotella T, unless they reformulated it, meets the C service class specifications and if you are running it in a spark ignition engine, it really should meet the S service class as well. I couldn't find any info on the service classes easily online except for marketing mumbo-jumbo but it should be printed on the side of the bottle in the API starburst or in the SAE certifications section. If it does meet the S service class, then all if good. If not, you can get get other synthetics that are made for motorcycles from other manufacturers for a similar price.

But, in the long run, it's up to you. Knowing what I know, I just couldn't bring myself to use Rotella T in a motorcycle. I'd probably run straight 30 weight before I used a diesel oil. But that's me and I'm not you and that probably makes you really happy.

nadams wrote: »

I run rotella in my motorcycle. It works well with wet clutches. Lots of guys over on BITOG run rotella 15-40 in bikes, quads, etc...

The above goes for you too.

heiney9

I only use "factory" oil filters as well. Mann and Mahle are what the factory recommends and my mechanic stocks them so it's easy.

AsSiMiLaTeD

I see two 5w30 oils on their site, a 100% synthetic and a XL synthetic. The XL is cheaper, which one is better?

Jstas

AsSiMiLaTeD wrote: »

I see two 5w30 oils on their site, a 100% synthetic and a XL synthetic. The XL is cheaper, which one is better?

Who's site?

ND13

Off topic, but John, have you ever used Green Performance Air Filters? I used K&Ns for years and found the Green's superior in air flow and build quality. Also comparably priced. They are everlasting, cleanable, and re-oilable just like the K&Ns.

Jstas

If you are talking about AMSOIL, then go with either one. The XL has a total base number of 9.0 which is pretty damn good since other synthetics only get into the 7's in most cases. The 100% synthetic has a total base number of 12.2 which is stellar but at $2+ a quart more might hurt the pocket book a bit.

They don't have 5W-20 in a 100% synthetic so I use the XL and I've had good experiences with it. I've seen people running the 5W-30 and 10W-30 in supercharged and turbocharged engines running on C16 and Q16 fuels. It's really good stuff too. So either one.

If you are talking about another site then I dunno. Gotta see what site.

Jstas

ND13 wrote: »

Off topic, but John, have you ever used Green Performance Air Filters? I used K&Ns for years and found the Green's superior in air flow and build quality. Also comparably priced. They are everlasting, cleanable, and re-oilable just like the K&Ns.

Nope. You said you were gonna send me one a while back when you were still at the Dodge dealer but I guess things went south for you before that happened.

exalted512

how does castrol syntec stack up with mobil 1?
-Cody

tonyb

I use mobil 1 from day one.Never had a problem.

AudioGenics

A downsize to synthetic oils is that there is a limited shelf life.

Jstas

joseph.v.chen wrote: »

A downsize to synthetic oils is that there is a limited shelf life.

Where did you dig up this little gem?

Because it's been my experience that engine oils, whether synthetic or mineral, will last anywhere from 3-5 years on the shelf depending on storage conditions. I've found several websites with simple Google searches to corroborate my experience.

If you are buying oil and not using it in 3 years then why are you buying that much oil? How long of a shelf life are you expecting anyway? Personally, I've bought enough oil to cover 1 year of oil changes. I don't have the space or patience to get more than that. Having a shelf life of more than 3-5 years is unreasonable IMO especially since I might not even be driving the same car in 3-5 years.


Oh and and you spelled downside wrong.

Jstas

double post. Dunno why that happened.

AudioGenics

ExxonMobil recommends a five year maximum shelf-life for engine oils, including Mobil 1.

Jstas

joseph.v.chen wrote: »

ExxonMobil recommends a five year maximum shelf-life for engine oils, including Mobil 1.

But that's no different than the recommended shelf life for a mineral oil (i.e.: non-synthetic).

So again, what's your point?

steveinaz

See, learn somethin new everyday. I DID NOT KNOW that motor oil had a shelf life.

MacLeod

I used to own a Suzuki Samurai which has 66 horsepower. I could easily tell if any modification made any improvement no matter how small. I do know for a fact that switching to Mobil 1 5w30 from conventional Valvoline not only added 1-2 MPG but also drastically reduced the engine operating temp. I was sold on Mobil 1 from that point on.

When I bought my trusty 07 Honda Accord a couple years ago, I considered sticking with Mobile 1 but didnt for a few reasons.

1- I feel that you wont see a benefit in using synthetic IF youre changing your oil and filter every 3000 miles and you keep your car only 100-120000 miles or so. Since Ive never kept any car longer than 100,000 miles I felt I didnt need to pay $50 for an oil change when $20 would work just fine.

2- From lurking on Bobistheoilguy.com for a few months (who send off samples of their used oil to labs for testing) that the lowly Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend was as good as anything else out there. All the lab tests showed excellent protection and very low wear with intervals approaching 10,000 miles!!!

3- My Honda dealer uses Kendal 5w20 synthetic blend which is made by the same people that make Motorcraft and is supposed to be essentially the same oil.

However, if I were going to keep my car for 200,000+ miles, Id use Mobil 1 without hesitation.

As for filters, I feel the Mobil 1 filter is the best. They are pricey tho - $12. But I use the Honda filter. I think its a fine, quality piece and since I never go over 3000 mile intervals I think Im pretty safe especially considering the 2.4 liter Honda 4 banger is a very low wear engine to begin with.

ND13

Aaron just admitted he owned a Suzuki Samurai.:eek::D:p

Did ya ever get it up on two wheels?

MacLeod

Hell yeah dude those things are awesome!

Theyre little so theyll go anywhere and theyre built like tanks (tanks with 66 horsepower). I had that thing all over the place. In all kinds of mud and red Georgia clay then when I lived in Texas Id go out to Fort Hood and run around the tank trails. This think was a blast! Even jumped it once. Not a Dukes of Hazard jump but there was definitely some air. Id still have it if I could afford 2 cars but it was just too small and uncomfortable to be the only car I had.

ND13

We took one in on trade a few years ago and decided to jump some snow drifts with it instead of taking it to the auction. After it finally got stuck, we hooked it up to a Ram 2500 Cummins to yank it out......well you can figure out what happened on your own.

AsSiMiLaTeD

A couple of car guys that I know think I'm wasting my money using Mobil 1. Here's the way I look at it: Hey it's only an extra $20 or $30 an oil change, which I do every 3 months

It's certainly not WORSE than your typical synthetic or conventional oil, I think 100% of people agree on that. The only questionr is really 'is it better?'. Not everyone agrees on that, w3hich is fine. If you're right and I'm wrong then all I've lost is a few bucks, if you're wrong though then I've potentially (not necessarily) lost a lot more.

I don't really like to mess around or cut costs when it comes to our car. My payment is $500 a month, so that's $6k a year. I don't mind spending $200 a year on oil changes.

I also am anal about keeping up the regular maintenance schedule. I also drop about $1000 every two years on the best set of tires I can find for it, I'm not gonna put some $75 Pop Boy tires on a 35k vehicle.

I also detail it about twice a month and keep a few layers of Zaino on it for good measure. It's a 2004 model and literally looks brand new. The new guy at the dealership last time asked why I had the old style grill on a new 4Runner, I was like "Dude, it's an 04", he couldn't believe it.

I'm a bit supersticious when it comes to cars, I believe that if you take care of them they'll take care of you, a completely illogical conclusion I know.

AsSiMiLaTeD

John, yes it was the Amsoil site I was referring to. I'll just go with the XL, thanks for saving me a few bucks. Hell at $7 that Amsoil is only a couple more bucks than the Mobil 1.

ND13

AsSiMiLaTeD wrote: »

I'm a bit supersticious when it comes to cars, I believe that if you take care of them they'll take care of you, a completely illogical conclusion I know.

Not illogical at all. Ever notice how a clean vehicle seems to run better and get better mileage.

I-SIG

Now yer thinkin' with yer dipstick, Jimmy!!!

(couldn't resist)

Wes

dfranks

I use synthetic oil with high flow spin on oil filter that's good to 5 microns, then I run a additiional bypass filter that is good to <1 micron. I run extended oil changes (1 year or 25k miles) with Oil analysis every 6k miles. I started off using Valvoline extreme 5W40 and I would go 15k miles on a change based on the OA. I ran Mobil 1 5W40 and got around 17kmiles based on the OA. I now run Esso Xd-3 to go get 25K which like Mobil and AMsoil is considered to be a true synthetic. Whereas some of the other names (no bashing) still use a dino oil for a base stock.

Benefits of synthetic:
Better cold starts in the -C or -F
Better friction modifiers than dino oil
Better heat disapation.(especially for turbos)
longer change interval(with bypass)
Less engine wear
better mileage(slight IMO)
Don't use the stuff if you don't run a good filter.
I like Amsoil but esso is cheaper and easier to come by.
Just my .2 cents
(no affiliation to any oil companies)

[Deleted User]

My experience with car oils. New Cars with synthetic oil, can not really tell a difference. Old cars that switch to synthetic, you will notice a huge difference. Runs smoother. I have tried all kinds of synthetics, when compared to conventional on older autos, they all work good. For performance measures of oil types, dyno your auto. I read previously that someone had a Toyota with over 200k and had zero wear. That is insane awesome.

If you were wanting a good synthetic for under 10 dollars a quart, I think that means 99 percent of the synthetics available. If you want real world results after you decide on your brand, buy a magnetic ring that attaches to the outside of your oil filter. Let me know what you find.

Halen

I use to use Mobil as well, it was just for peace of mind from branding. If you change your oil regularly any synthetic should do. I just never like Pennzoil.

Sami

MacLeod wrote: »

1- I feel that you wont see a benefit in using synthetic IF youre changing your oil and filter every 3000 miles and you keep your car only 100-120000 miles or so. Since Ive never kept any car longer than 100,000 miles I felt I didnt need to pay $50 for an oil change when $20 would work just fine.

Since it's already been said in the thread, see the last sentence:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1040408&postcount=15

ND13

I've never paid more than $40 for a full synthetic oil change.

GaryZ06

I have always used Mobil 1 ....I just switched to Royal Purple for the hell of it.

steveinaz

I noticed immediately on our Quads that the radiator fan rarely comes on anymore, so the synthetic must be assisting in the cooling department.

Jstas

steveinaz wrote: »

I noticed immediately on our Quads that the radiator fan rarely comes on anymore, so the synthetic must be assisting in the cooling department.

Either that of they're all broken! :eek: