SDA 1C's are ready for the upgrade bug

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  • xsmi
    xsmi Posts: 1,786
    edited May 2010
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    Cool,

    I am asking all of these questions so that hopefully I only have to open my SRS 2's one more time.
    2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,906
    edited May 2010
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    xsmi wrote: »
    Cool,

    I am asking all of these questions so that hopefully I only have to open my SRS 2's one more time.

    Ask away!!:cool: I just wish I could get at least 2 people to come over and hear them..

    I also can't beleive I am putting $600 more into my 1.2tl's..:eek:
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
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    I can help you spend even more... :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,906
    edited May 2010
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    Face wrote: »
    I can help you spend even more... :D


    Well do tell I might just be up for it... LOL:eek:
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  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,041
    edited May 2010
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    The more time I spend with these, I find that the midrange on the SDA-1C is superb. I am really enjoying mine and they are not modded near to the level as yours are Larry.
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  • geoff727
    geoff727 Posts: 546
    edited May 2010
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    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    Your more then welcome to come by, just keep in touch.

    Thanks. I'm anxious to put my ears on them. When I modded Kelvin's -1C's a couple years ago, I used a very basic foam to cut down the internal enclosure reflections. I'm looking forward to hearing the improvement you've gained with the BlackHole/SonicBarrier combination.
    Polk SDA SRS 2
    Polk RTA 15tl
    Polk Monitor 7C
    Polk Lsi9
    Infinity RS-II (modded)
    Infinity RS-IIIa (modded)
    Infinity RS 2.5 x 2
    Magnepan 1.6QR (modded)

    System: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1290711373
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  • Fongolio
    Fongolio Posts: 3,516
    edited May 2010
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    geoff727 wrote: »
    Thanks. I'm anxious to put my ears on them. When I modded Kelvin's -1C's a couple years ago, I used a very basic foam to cut down the internal enclosure reflections. I'm looking forward to hearing the improvement you've gained with the BlackHole/SonicBarrier combination.

    Hmmmm, do I forsee a mod in my future?
    SDA-1C (full mods)
    Carver TFM-55
    NAD 1130 Pre-amp
    Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
    The Clamp
    Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
    Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
    Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
    Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
    Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
    ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
    Ben's IC's
    Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM
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  • geoff727
    geoff727 Posts: 546
    edited May 2010
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    Fongolio wrote: »
    Hmmmm, do I forsee a mod in my future?

    Well, you could try, but it'll be a pain. I tacked that foam down with hot glue throughout the enclosure, with the idea that it never come loose. If I remember right, I stuffed about 70% of the enclosure volume with polyfill for internal reflection control. So taking the foam out and re-installing B.H. 5 or S.B. or NoRez would be a tremendous pain, and most likely for a small benefit at this point (with those particular speakers).

    But, if you run across another pair of speakers you want me to do, then we could work something out! :)
    Polk SDA SRS 2
    Polk RTA 15tl
    Polk Monitor 7C
    Polk Lsi9
    Infinity RS-II (modded)
    Infinity RS-IIIa (modded)
    Infinity RS 2.5 x 2
    Magnepan 1.6QR (modded)

    System: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1290711373
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  • geoff727
    geoff727 Posts: 546
    edited May 2010
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    Fongolio wrote: »
    Hmmmm, do I forsee a mod in my future?

    Also remember that those -1C's have quite a few front-back and side-side dowels inside there to 'tighten up' the areas where there was a lot of unsupported baffle, or a typical weak area (like the area around the 4 mid-bass drivers. This pushes the various unwanted box vibrations to higher frequencies, where they're more easily controlled.

    Any re-installation of another foam involves either removing all those supporting dowles, or cutting the foam to go around them. Removing them would be very unwise, as they're cemented in there really good. The area around the mid-basses where the particle board is not very substantial would probably break if you tried to remove those supports.

    Sorry, this is Larry's thread. I'll shut up now.
    Polk SDA SRS 2
    Polk RTA 15tl
    Polk Monitor 7C
    Polk Lsi9
    Infinity RS-II (modded)
    Infinity RS-IIIa (modded)
    Infinity RS 2.5 x 2
    Magnepan 1.6QR (modded)

    System: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1290711373
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  • misterrick
    misterrick Posts: 1
    edited June 2012
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    Hi all! I am new here. I think I am going to take all my mid/bass drivers and JB weld 'em just to be safe. Too much investment not to, I think. I have two Monitor 5's that had both drivers frozen up so I replaced them with eBay purchases. They work great now. I understand there is a place that can fix the frozen drivers but not cheap, around $130 - $150 a pair I think. I will have to look this up again. I can twist the magnet & outer plate by hand on the frozen up drivers, so it sounds like the "glue" gave out or none was used. I have collected many older Polk drivers and speakers to try to put together a nice sound system that can be voice matched, mostly older monitor 5's, 7's & RT-11t. I am using Hafler gear & am looking at upgrade kits for everything in hopes of improving what I have. Any helpful hints are welcome. Thanks all!
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited June 2012
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    misterrick wrote: »
    Hi all! I am new here. I think I am going to take all my mid/bass drivers and JB weld 'em just to be safe. Too much investment not to, I think. I have two Monitor 5's that had both drivers frozen up so I replaced them with eBay purchases. They work great now. I understand there is a place that can fix the frozen drivers but not cheap, around $130 - $150 a pair I think. I will have to look this up again. I can twist the magnet & outer plate by hand on the frozen up drivers, so it sounds like the "glue" gave out or none was used. I have collected many older Polk drivers and speakers to try to put together a nice sound system that can be voice matched, mostly older monitor 5's, 7's & RT-11t. I am using Hafler gear & am looking at upgrade kits for everything in hopes of improving what I have. Any helpful hints are welcome. Thanks all!

    Best advice to get help is to start a new thread - this one's 2+ years old!

    Welcome to CP!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,906
    edited June 2012
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    The memories..:lol:
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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
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    Hi Toolfan. I just read through this 1C upgrade post - wow !!! Beautiful !!! I'm about to take a similar adventure. Starting with the endcaps, you mentioned that you re-attached them similar to the SRS's. I've read that they are bolt on, which I prefer, after struggling like you with the glued on ones. Can you provide more details as to how they are bolted on? Thanks !!!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
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    Side panels removed. 3 of the 4 came off easily, the 4th came off in pieces.

    bihef2vrl3c7.jpg
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 0
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    Might be Overkill but my little Artemes (so?) EOS cabinets are 5 layers of 3/4" and 5/8" MDF with a rolled on liquid Dynamat like material between each piece and internally braced for a single 7" Eton woofer. You can put your ear at the port and knock on the cabinet and hear nothing. Inside is just virgin lamb's wool. Bottom has an aluminum plate added for it to sit on the three steel balls sitting on the Sound Anchor stands. People that listen to them always look around for a subwoofer in the room. The low-end extension and overall output is amazing. Actually, the entire speaker and sound is amazing. Especially for a 7" two way. Expensive but worth every penny if you can find a pair.

    Point is, cabinets can't be too solid. I think all the SDA's for sure could use another layer or two at least on the baffle. They have a lot of motors stressing that single layer of particle board. I've got a pair of 1C's I'm seriously thinking about building multi-layer MDF cabinets for just to get rid of the low budget OEM cabinets. I'll bet everything below around 4-5k hz would sound better. You guys with 1.2's or 2.3's with all those little woofers jumping around would definitely benefit from stronger enclosures.
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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
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    Thanks Slapaho. Whoa those EOS cabinets are real beauties. I do a little woodworking so I appreciate the design of anything that is not just orthogonal. I thought the SRS's had an optional brace that could be added? That being said, I would expect the speakers would be dialed in to accommodate the natural frequency of the cabinet or other steady state structure born vibration?
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 0
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    Polk came up with an external but it nothing to do with cabinet or baffle rigidity. It went between the back of the speaker and back wall so it wouldn't tip over as easily.
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