SDA 1C's are ready for the upgrade bug

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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited March 2010
    looking good Larry
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    salasg wrote: »
    Great work on the speakers. I am lookin at Dynamating my SDA 1C's in the near future. How much Dynamat did you need to do your 1C's and what did it run you. Eventually I will do the RDO's and crossovers.:D

    Thanks!!

    I paid $25.00 for a sheet and have done my 1.2tl's a set of monitor 10's and a set of monitor 7's

    I had to order another sheet for this project..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    The least little bit of gap between the side panel and the box will cause some rattling. My 1.2TL had a split in the seam in the lower right of the cabinet. On bass heavy passages it rattled and buzzed until I sealed it up. The gap couldn't have been more than a hair thick.

    Thats what I was worried about I will just glue them back on as Leroy says below..

    It was just a thought anyway..
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    Reinstall the correct way it'll last another 20 years.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    I should have called in sick as I would rather be working on these..LOL;)
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • Fongolio
    Fongolio Posts: 3,516
    edited March 2010
    For those side panels you may consider the solution Geoff727 did with my SDA-1C's. He made the side panels removable with snap on's much like the front grill panels. Makes it very easy to remove for recloth and they don't rattle at all.
    SDA-1C (full mods)
    Carver TFM-55
    NAD 1130 Pre-amp
    Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
    The Clamp
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  • Vette C6.r
    Vette C6.r Posts: 1,560
    edited March 2010
    How much of a difference does the Dynamat and Mortite make. Has anyone done just these mods by themselves ???

    Looking good Larry.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2010
    Mortite on the mid woofers is very noticeable.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Vette C6.r
    Vette C6.r Posts: 1,560
    edited March 2010
    Thanks Face. Finally a cheap upgrade - lol
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    Face wrote: »
    Mortite on the mid woofers is very noticeable.

    Don't you mean Dynamat Mike? Mortite is for sealing.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    Don't you mean Dynamat Mike? Mortite is for sealing.
    The Mortite also improves bass tightness and IMO is more noticeable than dampening the baskets with Dynamat. Both are still worthwhile tweaks.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    Face wrote: »
    The Mortite also improves bass tightness and IMO is more noticeable than dampening the baskets with Dynamat. Both are still worthwhile tweaks.

    Gottcha, I did both; Dynamat first which made a big improvement and then Part Express Speaker sealer instead of Mortite which made another improvement. I realized a better improvement or more dramatic improvement with the Dynamat but that could be because I did this first and the sealer may have just sured things up as I don't think I had any leaks in the cabinet.

    I felt the Dynamat cleaned up the midrange and made it more detailed among other things.

    Either way they are both great inexpensive tweeks that really work.
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2010
    Face wrote: »
    The Mortite also improves bass tightness and IMO is more noticeable than dampening the baskets with Dynamat. Both are still worthwhile tweaks.

    I had the same experience. The Mortite damped the mids preventing the vibrations from causing cabinet noise.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    ben62670 wrote: »
    I had the same experience. The Mortite damped the mids preventing the vibrations from causing cabinet noise.
    Ben

    I didn't know that Mortite had damping properties. I thought it was just a sealer that's why I went with PE speaker sealer cord.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    I mortited the drivers on my 1.2tl's first then Dynamated later on, I found that the Dynamat gave the sound much better clarity. with the 1C's I will just put them together with everything at once and plug and play..

    The three BIGGEST tweaks one can do outside the crossovers, is Mortite, Dynamat and Spikes... Spikes probably being my favorite, I was floored after putting spikes on my 1.2tl's.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    The Vampire BPHEXCB is a binding post made from solid high purity Copper directly plated with Gold.

    They look nice...
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    Double Post Sorry..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    Picked up some 1/4" MDF to make new side panels..

    SDA1Cswoodcaps021.jpg


    I have put on 4 coats of polyurethane

    SDA1Cswoodcaps017.jpg
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

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    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    Pictures Suck they do no justice!!!
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    The Vampire BPHEXCB is a binding post made from solid high purity Copper directly plated with Gold.

    They look nice...

    Nice and heavy too. They look purty.
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    Pictures Suck they do no justice!!!

    Sucky pics or not it still looks really good.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    Nice and heavy too. They look purty.

    I am looking forward to seeing the binding post, should be here this week.
    And for the money they better be Nice..LOL:p
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    Nice and heavy too. They look purty.

    I am looking forward to seeing the binding post, should be here this week.
    And for the money they better be Nice..LOL:p

    I said the same thing when I purchased my Cardas CCCRs. I was floored by their weight and quality. The Vampires look pretty much the same. Good stuff.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    JB weld time, not the best part of this job but not bad.

    To me since you have the drivers out, and original replacement drivers can be a pain in the **** to find,a little extra insurance is not a bad idea. I put a little JB weld in 8 places around the magnets.

    SDA1CsJBweld001.jpg
    SDA1CsJBweld003.jpg
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    Well done Larry. I wish I had to know-how and equipment to do such things.
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2010
    Larry you want to put the JB weld between the magnet and the basket;)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • xsmi
    xsmi Posts: 1,798
    edited March 2010
    ben62670 wrote: »
    Larry you want to put the JB weld between the magnet and the basket;)

    Where and why?
    2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    The magnet has a plate on each side, the one closest to the basket is rivited 4 times. to me the speaker would have to take a good fall to shear the rivits and cause the magnet to move or come off completely, and IMO you would have more damage then just a magnet coming off the basket.

    Now the magnet itself is glued on each side to hold it in place between the two plates, and if it slips it will lock the driver up for good or if it slips just a hair it can cause the coil to rub on the shaft that is on the top plate.

    This is why I find it more critical to JB weld around the magnet where I did in the pics, and as we have seen some of these drivers being 20+ years old that if and when that glue fails you lose the driver.

    I have one that I pulled from a Monitor 10 where the glue failed. I will post some pics tonight.

    Larry.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    The magnet has a plate on each side, the one closest to the basket is rivited 4 times. to me the speaker would have to take a good fall to shear the rivits and cause the magnet to move or come off completely, and IMO you would have more damage then just a magnet coming off the basket.

    Now the magnet itself is glued on each side to hold it in place between the two plates, and if it slips it will lock the driver up for good or if it slips just a hair it can cause the coil to rub on the shaft that is on the top plate.

    This is why I find it more critical to JB weld around the magnet where I did in the pics, and as we have seen some of these drivers being 20+ years old that if and when that glue fails you lose the driver.

    I have one that I pulled from a Monitor 10 where the glue failed. I will post some pics tonight.

    Larry.

    Okay, I'm convinced now when are you coming over to weld the eight MWs in my 1.2 TLs?:eek::D
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  • mhmacw
    mhmacw Posts: 832
    edited March 2010
    ben62670 wrote: »
    Larry you want to put the JB weld between the magnet and the basket;)

    kinda what i was thinking lol.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,311
    edited March 2010
    mhmacw wrote: »
    kinda what i was thinking lol.


    Your not getting it.. I will start a thread with pics tonight as to why I am doing it this way..

    Now I beleive there are early drivers that are not rivited, and I would agree to putting JB weld between the basket and magnet.. these have rivits so I see no need to put JB weld there. unless of course you plan to abuse the **** out of your drivers to the point of killing them..:rolleyes:
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

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  • JPSmario
    JPSmario Posts: 142
    edited March 2010
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    I paid $25.00 for a sheet and have done my 1.2tl's a set of monitor 10's and a set of monitor 7's

    I had to order another sheet for this project..

    Where is the best place to get Dynamat? I love the pictures, they'll be my guide for tweaking my 2A's!
    Dual 1229/Grado Gold/Rotel RCD1070/RC995/RB980BX/Pioneer 7100/Denon DRM710/Monster HTS3600MKII/PolkAudio SDA2B/TL's
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