SDA 1C's are ready for the upgrade bug

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,237
    edited March 2010
    JPSmario wrote: »
    Where is the best place to get Dynamat? I love the pictures, they'll be my guide for tweaking my 2A's!

    I got mine on ebay, but I found it cheaper on Amazon but I can't find the link. here is a link for ebay.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DYNAMAT-10425-XTREME-EXTREME-WEDGE-PACK-SOUND-DAMPENING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f12b6c7bQQitemZ300398898299QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    Here's a link to Amazon. They have several different options to choose from.

    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_automotive?ie=UTF8&search-alias=automotive&field-brandtextbin=Dynamat
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,237
    edited April 2010
    Ok a couple of weeks ago I was not happy with how the old wood caps were coming out. So I went ahead and went to Auston Hardwoods and had them make me Plank 1" X 11.5" X 8' long out of poplar. If your looking to kill a few hours, just get to work on some new wood caps for your SDA's.:eek:

    The wood looks fantastic, now the fun stuff of figuring out what color of stain to get..

    Pics..
    003.jpg
    005.jpg
    004.jpg
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited April 2010
    Looking good!!!
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  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,081
    edited April 2010
    Very nice. I would go with an extremely light color.
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  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited April 2010
    Conradicles wrote: »
    Very nice. I would go with an extremely light color.

    I agree. I like Minwax's "natural" colored stain. I don't think it has any pigment in it at all. It's amber and translucent looking, but it darkens up any kind of wood very nicely. It will make the grain on that POPlar really POP. :D
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
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  • MillerLiteScott
    MillerLiteScott Posts: 2,561
    edited April 2010
    Watch out when using a natural color stain on the greener parts of poplar it will make the green color more intense ie. baby food green. That may or may not be what you are looking for.

    Scott
    I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited April 2010
    As usual Larry, very, very nice.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,237
    edited April 2010
    I'm thinking more like a dark like cherry red or ebony.
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,414
    edited April 2010
    any thought of making them match your beautiful TL's?
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited April 2010
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    I'm thinking more like a dark like cherry red or ebony.

    mmmm, cherry red, sounds good to me:)
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited April 2010
    falconcry72 wrote: »
    mmmm, cherry red, sounds good to me:)

    Yep, cherry red would look really nice. That's dark cherry red correct? as in no where near fire engine red.
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  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited April 2010
    This is a nice cherry, I like it alot.


    photo-65.jpg?t=1271646113
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited April 2010
    Nice work Larry!:D
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  • Bubinga99
    Bubinga99 Posts: 283
    edited April 2010
    Larry, what made you choose poplar (aside from it being about the cheapest wood per BF)? It's very light and soft.

    If you're going to stain, do the backside first. Poplar can tend to look blotchy when stained and you may need some practice on the non-visible surfaces.

    There are pre-stain wood conditioners that help with blotchiness. Google poplar stain blotchy or something like that, and you'll find lots of info I'm sure.

    You aren't planning to glue this top on, right?

    edit: did you get any scrap pieces? Since you have exposed endgrain, I'd also check to see if you like the way the endgrain looks compared to the face grain after the stain is applied.
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  • mhmacw
    mhmacw Posts: 832
    edited April 2010
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    Your not getting it.. I will start a thread with pics tonight as to why I am doing it this way..

    Now I beleive there are early drivers that are not rivited, and I would agree to putting JB weld between the basket and magnet.. these have rivits so I see no need to put JB weld there. unless of course you plan to abuse the **** out of your drivers to the point of killing them..:rolleyes:

    not getting what? oh you must think ive never seen a speaker torn apart before. lots of drivers are glued at the basket with no rivets anywhere and when you say insurance i assume you wouldnt want to risk anything. hence the magnet to basket weld. regardless of all that i was simply saying my first thought was as bens. but thanks for the pics. it does in form those that really didnt know any different.
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  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited April 2010
    Larry, that's just gorgeous woodworking. It makes me tired just thinking about it because I really Suxk at that. You, on the other hand are a 'real' craftsman.

    I would also go with a darker luxurious stain! Love the look of rich wood.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,237
    edited April 2010
    mhmacw wrote: »
    not getting what? oh you must think ive never seen a speaker torn apart before. lots of drivers are glued at the basket with no rivets anywhere and when you say insurance i assume you wouldnt want to risk anything. hence the magnet to basket weld. regardless of all that i was simply saying my first thought was as bens. but thanks for the pics. it does in form those that really didnt know any different.

    That all came out wrong at the time I posted it... My post was not to attack and or put you down..:cool:

    Sorry brother we both are on the same page..:D
    cnh wrote: »
    Larry, that's just gorgeous woodworking. It makes me tired just thinking about it because I really Suxk at that. You, on the other hand are a 'real' craftsman.

    I would also go with a darker luxurious stain! Love the look of rich wood.

    cnh

    Thanks !!!;)
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  • mhmacw
    mhmacw Posts: 832
    edited April 2010
    thanks for the clari tool. i seem to have become a ittle defensive on this forum due to some past dialogue exchanges. nice work on the rebuilds by the way. interesting point about the endgrain that was made. poplar might be a little open grain for a smoth end but as im sure you know after you stain the end and befor clear coat if you burnish it will close the endgrain for life haha.
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited April 2010
    mhmacw wrote: »
    thanks for the clari tool. i seem to have become a ittle defensive on this forum due to some past dialogue exchanges. nice work on the rebuilds by the way. interesting point about the endgrain that was made. poplar might be a little open grain for a smoth end but as im sure you know after you stain the end and befor clear coat if you burnish it will close the endgrain for life haha.

    Hahaha, you guys are trying to kiss and make up and you call Larry, "Tool" WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!:p:D
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  • agfrost
    agfrost Posts: 2,428
    edited April 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    Hahaha, you guys are trying to kiss and make up and you call Larry, "Tool" WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!:p:D

    :p:p:p
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,237
    edited April 2010
    hearingimpared wrote: »
    Hahaha, you guys are trying to kiss and make up and you call Larry, "Tool" WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!:p:D


    I got your TOOL right here..;)

    tool_****.jpg
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  • mhmacw
    mhmacw Posts: 832
    edited April 2010
    hehe
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited April 2010
    Cool tool! double hehehe
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,237
    edited April 2010
    Just instaled my Binding Post's:cool:

    Using Vampire BPHEXCB binding post, and Cardas CCGR for the SDA cable...

    BINDINGPOST001.jpg
    BINDINGPOST002.jpg
    BINDINGPOST003.jpg
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited April 2010
    cool its about time the sda cable monopoly is over lol:)
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,237
    edited April 2010
    zarrdoss wrote: »
    cool its about time the sda cable monopoly is over lol:)

    Its was over shortly after Ben Joined..;)
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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited April 2010
    Hot damn those look pretty and very nicely installed. If you use spades, you will definitely be able to torque them down tight enought to keep them in place.
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  • toucanet
    toucanet Posts: 580
    edited April 2010
    Nice... Very Nice:D
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,237
    edited April 2010
    Thanks!!!
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