Cable Break-in/adjustment period
Comments
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DarqueKnight wrote: »Sometimes a picture is instructive. The diagram below shows the retail prices of components in a hypothetical, yet reasonable, high quality, high resolution, high end audio system.
Assuming we are only going to consider well engineered cables whose prices truthfully reflect the design, engineering and manufacturing effort expended on them, what would you consider to be a reasonable amount to spend on cables that will preserve the signal integrity of these components?
I would say at least as much as a fried green tomato sandwich costs.:eek:(j/k) -
Assuming we are only going to consider well engineered cables whose prices truthfully reflect the design, engineering and manufacturing effort expended on them, what would you consider to be a reasonable amount to spend on cables that will preserve the signal integrity of these components?
About $15.
If all we are trying to do is "preserve the signal integrity", why would it cost more for a $5000 component, than it does for a $1000 component? If a cable is good enough to "preserve the signal integrity", it will do that on any cost component. The idea of buying cables as a percentage of your system cost is ridiculous. -
About $15.
If all we are trying to do is "preserve the signal integrity", why would it cost more for a $5000 component, than it does for a $1000 component? If a cable is good enough to "preserve the signal integrity", it will do that on any cost component. The idea of buying cables as a percentage of your system cost is ridiculous.
Cables are components. -
I think you're ridiculous. But hey, that's just my idea. :rolleyes:
I notice you couldn't answer the question, as usual.:rolleyes: -
I think you are missing the blocks for the Power Cords. Just thought it wouldn't make sense to use 18AWG wire with these systems.DarqueKnight wrote: »Sometimes a picture is instructive. The diagram below shows the retail prices of components in a hypothetical, yet reasonable, high quality, high resolution, high end audio system.
Assuming we are only going to consider well engineered cables whose prices truthfully reflect the design, engineering and manufacturing effort expended on them, what would you consider to be a reasonable amount to spend on cables that will preserve the signal integrity of these components?
A block diagram of a modest high end audio system (MSRP $ amounts).Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
About $15.
If all we are trying to do is "preserve the signal integrity", why would it cost more for a $5000 component, than it does for a $1000 component? If a cable is good enough to "preserve the signal integrity", it will do that on any cost component. The idea of buying cables as a percentage of your system cost is ridiculous.
I do believe that there can be sonic differences in various well constructed cables, because I've heard it over and over again. But I don't believe it has anything to do with price. I think it has more to do with system synergy (matching) and the user's sonic preferences. I've had the Blue Jeans LC-1 interconnect in my system recently, with the Taversoe RCA Plugs, and feel that it would be hard for any cable at any price to beat it more than marginally. This is an excellent interconnect at around $40 shipped per meter, with very good connectors. Having said that, I still prefer my reference silver conductor cables, but not my much.
I would not put much faith in a $15 cable however. In the first place, it would likely have to have crap connectors. And probably not much thought put into design. At that price, it would be tough to put together a decent DIY.2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones -
dragon1952 wrote: »I do believe that there can be sonic differences in various well constructed cables, because I've heard it over and over again. But I don't believe it has anything to do with price. I think it has more to do with system synergy (matching) and the user's sonic preferences. I've had the Blue Jeans LC-1 interconnect in my system recently, with the Taversoe RCA Plugs, and feel that it would be hard for any cable at any price to beat it more than marginally. This is an excellent interconnect at around $40 shipped per meter, with very good connectors. Having said that, I still prefer my reference silver conductor cables, but not my much.
I would not put much faith in a $15 cable however. In the first place, it would likely have to have crap connectors. And probably not much thought put into design. At that price, it would be tough to put together a decent DIY.
Ah, but you've grossly underestimated Billy's thread crapping. He's suggesting he'd wire up the whole rig for $15, because he's a donkey.Main Rig
Pioneer Elite SC-05, Rotel RMB-1075
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Cambridge Soundworks, MC150 (Center), MC100 x 4, Mirage LF-150
Office
Adcom GTP-400, Adcom GFA-535II, (need a quality CDP), RT55i -
14,000.00 in audio equip. with 15.00 in wire and interconnects is your suggestion?
Fail of the century -
I think you are missing the blocks for the Power Cords. Just thought it wouldn't make sense to use 18AWG wire with these systems.
OK. I really didn't want to open up that highly controversial world of hurt, but since you brought it up, I have revised the block diagram accordingly. Now, it must be noted that, whereas the interconnect and speaker cable is only charged with the task of preserving signal integrity, the power cable has a more difficult task: It must clean the power signal as much as possible, and prevent or substantially reduce environmental sources of noise while preserving the power signal's integrity. Whew! Remember: pulling unconditioned power from the wall is like drinking from a sewer. Just as the human body's immune system could be overwhelmed by drinking from a sewer, an electronic component's power supply could be overwhelmed by dirty power.
This isn't shown in the diagram, but the gray block is populated by evil gremlins who want to break into your audio equipment and do nasty things to your sound quality. Some effort, and expense, is required to keep them inside the wall.
A block diagram of a modest high end audio system (MSRP $ amounts).Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
I'm out as I've only replaced one power cord with a Signal Cable Magic Power Cord so I'm not up on PC prices.
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Now you have me thinking about the current/power going into my system. I would not drink from the sewer so I must address this. Right now I have my amp plugged into the wall socket with the original power cord that came with the Belles 350. What the should I do? My Anthem pre-amp is also plugged into a power strip. I guess thats not a good idea, right? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Ah, but you've grossly underestimated Billy's thread crapping. He's suggesting he'd wire up the whole rig for $15, because he's a donkey.
Another poster who has nothing to add but insults. Big suprise. -
I would not put much faith in a $15 cable however. In the first place, it would likely have to have crap connectors. And probably not much thought put into design. At that price, it would be tough to put together a decent DIY.
You put faith in cables? There are cables with excellent build quality for less than $5. Monoprice comes to mind. I prefer Dayton's, they have nicer looking connections, and are a bit more flexible. Both have a lifetime guarantee, no faith necessary. -
You put faith in cables? There are cables with excellent build quality for less than $5. Monoprice comes to mind. I prefer Dayton's, they have nicer looking connections, and are a bit more flexible. Both have a lifetime guarantee, no faith necessary.
What components is your rig comprised of? -
Another poster who has nothing to add but insults. Big suprise.
William,
I gotta say I got a chuckle out of him calling you a donkey. I would have laughed just as much if he called me a donkey. Its just a funny thing to call someone and much worse has been said thats for sure. -
Another poster who has nothing to add but insults. Big suprise.
What do you expect!?! You go on and on about how YOU can't hear a difference and it's gotten very old.
The fact is you can't prove to me that you don't hear a difference anymore than I can prove to you that I do. However, the number of folks posting here that say they can is vastly greater than those that say they can't, so any reasonable person would conclude that there are differences.
Time for you to let it go.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
What do you expect!?! You go on and on about how YOU can't hear a difference and it's gotten very old.
The fact is you can't prove to me that you don't hear a difference anymore than I can prove to you that I do. However, the number of folks posting here that say they can is vastly greater than those that say they can't, so any reasonable person would conclude that there are differences.
Time for you to let it go.
Now thats good advice. -
Now you have me thinking about the current/power going into my system. I would not drink from the sewer so I must address this. Right now I have my amp plugged into the wall socket with the original power cord that came with the Belles 350. What the should I do? My Anthem pre-amp is also plugged into a power strip. I guess thats not a good idea, right? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Power quality varies greatly from place to place and some sewers are cleaner than others.
Try some different power cords and make careful listening notes about what differences, if any, you hear. Some of us on the forum started out with Signal power cords and then upgraded to higher performance power cords as we upgraded audio gear. Signal, like a lot of other cable companies, offers a 30 day money back guarantee, so all you would be out of is shipping charges if the cables don't work for you.
The quality of your utility company's power and the quality of your individual component's power supplies are important variables in how much benefit you will receive from a higher performance aftermarket power cord. In some cases, local power may be so bad that a high performance power cord may be of no benefit at all. In such case, power conditioning options should be explored and then good quality power cords should be used between the conditioning equipment and the components.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
DK,
Thanks for the great advice. I will be address this situation soon and keep everyone informed on my progress. -
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That is more like a system with a good sound!
I've tried $10 monoprice cable and decided they belongs to the cloth hanger. Wait...Oh, wait! I think some people runs their speaker from cloth hangers.
DarqueKnight wrote: »OK. I really didn't want to open up that highly controversial world of hurt, but since you brought it up, I have revised the block diagram accordingly. Now, it must be noted that, whereas the interconnect and speaker cable is only charged with the task of preserving signal integrity, the power cable has a more difficult task: It must clean the power signal as much as possible, and prevent or substantially reduce environmental sources of noise while preserving the power signal's integrity. Whew! Remember: pulling unconditioned power from the wall is like drinking from a sewer. Just as the human body's immune system could be overwhelmed by drinking from a sewer, an electronic component's power supply could be overwhelmed by dirty power.
This isn't shown in the diagram, but the gray block is populated by evil gremlins who want to break into your audio equipment and do nasty things to your sound quality. Some effort, and expense, is required to keep them inside the wall.
A block diagram of a modest high end audio system (MSRP $ amounts).Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
I just got back from seeing my brother in laws band. My ears are ringing. Cables don't make difference....now....
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You put faith in cables? There are cables with excellent build quality for less than $5. Monoprice comes to mind. I prefer Dayton's, they have nicer looking connections, and are a bit more flexible. Both have a lifetime guarantee, no faith necessary.
Dayton Audio cables are designed for customers who want the best possible audio and video that they can get from today's high-end A/V components. A cheap interconnect cable on expensive equipment does not allow you to fully enjoy the technology that the component possesses. The design and construction of Dayton Audio cables unleashes the signal allowing you to experience clear detailed audio and video. No need to spend a fortune on high-end cables to get the performance you demand from your components.
Specifications:
* RCA speaker cables available in lengths of 1.5', 3', 6', and 12'
* Subwoofer cables available in 12' and 25' lengths
* Coaxial Digital cables are available in 1.5', 3', 6', and 12' lengths. They are to be used with digital audio equipment for improved digital sound quality and performance.
* All cables feature a black chrome shell with a rubber grip for ease of installation
* Gold-plated connections for superior signal transfer.
* Flexible black jacket makes it easy to route the wires
* Shielded for protection against RF/EM interference
Wow, check out those 'Specs'. Let's see...they come in different lengths....that's good. Black chrome shell and rubber grips....that's very important. Gold plated connections.......not sure what purity, or what the base metal is but hey......who cares! Flexible and shielded...cool! It doesn't mention conductors or conductor material though....what's up with that
2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones -
I've always been confused by power cables. I'm not disputing their efficiency. How do they work? I mean if the wire connecting the power grid to your outlet is of poor quality, how does a 3 foot run of nice cable help? If the outlet varies between 110 and 130 volts and similarly for the frequency, how can a power cable change that? Don't you need a seperate power cleaning component?
Someone please help and learn me something new. -
Why? You'll just imply it's placebo effect and all in the head anyway.
Get back in your box, Jack. :rolleyes:
Hey hey hey now. Let's play nice. I'd just like to know how they work and why? If there's no science behind it, just say that. -
I would THINK it would work in terms of how the component in itself would act as opposed to using the cheap thin supplied power cable. I would imagine something that requires a high current such as an amplifier would have improved quality (most likely in the low frequency range for bass notes?) running on a better power cord...just my educated guess.Truck setup
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Polk SR104Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec. -
My feet smell like boiled cabbage.....
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I've always been confused by power cables. I'm not disputing their efficiency. How do they work? I mean if the wire connecting the power grid to your outlet is of poor quality, how does a 3 foot run of nice cable help? If the outlet varies between 110 and 130 volts and similarly for the frequency, how can a power cable change that? Don't you need a seperate power cleaning component?
Someone please help and learn me something new.
Cpyder
All New Bees on this forum must take the wire and cable oath of blind faith that these things make dramatic sonic differences that can't be proven by any mathod. Or suffer the results.
You ask a forbidden question.
If you continue with these questions you will be called many names by many members. Let the one liners begin now. -
Well here we go.... and a one and a two......Let the one liners begin now.
Why Why Why Don't We Bake Him A Pie?
Cpyder's got the fork, It's stuck in his Eye!
...ping..... -
Cpyder
All New Bees on this forum must take the wire and cable oath of blind faith that these things make dramatic sonic differences that can't be proven by any mathod. Or suffer the results.
You ask a forbidden question.
If you continue with these questions you will be called many names by many members. Let the one liners begin now.
Nothing like lighting the match.:rolleyes:
