Spearker cables..fact or fiction?

1454648505173

Comments

  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,788
    edited May 2009
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2009
    This thread has become an idiot convention. :rolleyes:
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,788
    edited May 2009
    Face wrote: »
    This thread has become an idiot convention. :rolleyes:
    Takes one to know one!:p
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2009
    lightman1 wrote: »
    Takes one to know one!:p
    You're lucky I like you. :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,567
    edited May 2009
    And still no pictures.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,788
    edited May 2009
    face wrote: »
    you're lucky i like you. :d
    you like me!!! You really really like me!!!
  • POIDOG
    POIDOG Posts: 391
    edited May 2009
    Face wrote: »
    This thread has become an idiot convention. :rolleyes:

    Is spearker street for 4th of July sparklers :confused:

    Also, I shot a mountain lion :p
  • ahardy17
    ahardy17 Posts: 84
    edited May 2009
    so wait....what kind of speaker wire DOES everyone use?

    i mean...i come from th ecar audio world where streetwires and monstercable are big names and tsunami...well they're there too. i'm a fan of memphis audio connection lines myself.

    but MIT? Knuconcepts? are these real things i should know about?????
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,567
    edited May 2009
    ahardy17 wrote: »
    are these real things i should know about?????

    For the level of your home audio gear, Knuconcepts might be worth looking into, but MIT would be overkill.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ahardy17
    ahardy17 Posts: 84
    edited May 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    For the level of your home audio gear, Knuconcepts might be worth looking into, but MIT would be overkill.

    hahahaha whoa whoa whoa hang on sir you underestimate me! but only because i haven't fully updated my signature. :D when i do update it you'll see things like my harmon kardon receiver and bose surrounds with an infinity sub. which is, i know, probably still not worthy of these infamous MIT connections. I'll settle with my custom Monstercables for now :)
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • SKsolutions
    SKsolutions Posts: 1,820
    edited May 2009
    Spearker z Deutche?

    Itiot. :)
    -Ignorance is strength -
  • Hillbilly61
    Hillbilly61 Posts: 702
    edited May 2009
    ahardy17 wrote: »
    hahahaha whoa whoa whoa hang on sir you underestimate me! but only because i haven't fully updated my signature. :D when i do update it you'll see things like my harmon kardon receiver and bose surrounds with an infinity sub. which is, i know, probably still not worthy of these infamous MIT connections. I'll settle with my custom Monstercables for now :)

    Sounds like you need some quality spearker cables!
  • ahardy17
    ahardy17 Posts: 84
    edited May 2009
    Sounds like you need some quality spearker cables!

    hahaha i thought you were being sarcastic for a minute there...but then i realized you weren't really making fun of my spearkers :D
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,567
    edited May 2009
    ahardy17 wrote: »
    I'll settle

    As you say.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • organ
    organ Posts: 4,969
    edited May 2009
    Ha ha ha It has surfaced again:D:D
  • ahardy17
    ahardy17 Posts: 84
    edited May 2009
    F1nut wrote: »
    As you say.

    so what does an aficionado like you do about the terminals on the cabinets of whatever polk speakers you have? because it would be a shame to spend such money on fancy wires and have them suffer due to a weak link in their connection to your drivers. i'm new to this forum (clearly) and presently do not feel like searching through old threads to find the answer to this question.
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited May 2009
    I have gone totally insane and am now totally spearkercablefied with Shotgun 2 Cables and IC's .

    I'm experimenting with MIT Shotgun 2 IC's and various other IC's between one of my Thorens tables with an RCA outfitted SME tonearm to a Thorens MM 001 Phono Preamp, then to the preamp AUX In, and then on to the amplifier. The impedance matching feature on the MIT's is amazing, but I can't yet say they are better that my exemplary 6 foot Ben's Silver's.

    I wish everyone who is skeptical could hear this.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited May 2009
    ahardy17 wrote: »
    so what does an aficionado like you do about the terminals on the cabinets of whatever polk speakers you have? because it would be a shame to spend such money on fancy wires and have them suffer due to a weak link in their connection to your drivers. i'm new to this forum (clearly) and presently do not feel like searching through old threads to find the answer to this question.

    I took F1's cable connection advice on both my SDA-2B's and SDA SRS 2's when I modded the crossovers. It was one of the best $25 per cabinet investments I've made. The man knows of that which he speaks.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • ahardy17
    ahardy17 Posts: 84
    edited May 2009
    I took F1's cable connection advice on both my SDA-2B's and SDA SRS 2's when I modded the crossovers. The man knows of that which he speaks.

    I am entirely self-educated in the world of audio and come from the car audio side of experts. I have been made well aware in the past few days (my first on this forum) that I have a lot to learn haha
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited May 2009
    ahardy17 wrote: »
    I am entirely self-educated in the world of audio and come from the car audio side of experts. I have been made well aware in the past few days (my first on this forum) that I have a lot to learn haha

    Forgot to mention, the binding posts are Cardas CCGR's . . .

    http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgr.htm

    . . . that way, your investment in MIT or similar won't be wasted.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • ahardy17
    ahardy17 Posts: 84
    edited May 2009
    Forgot to mention, the binding posts are Cardas CCGR's . . .

    http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgr.htm

    . . . that way, your investment in MIT or similar won't be wasted.

    wow...that's like...**** for audiophiles...i want them! i can't wait to have real money to invest in quality stuff like that...seriously the terminals on prefab boxes have "weak link" written all over them...now THAT is a solution...thanks :D
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,567
    edited May 2009
    I have gone totally insane and am now totally spearkercablefied

    LOL......




    Yeah, Cardas CCGR's will do the trick.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • LBrize
    LBrize Posts: 58
    edited May 2009
    ahardy17 wrote: »
    hahahaha whoa whoa whoa hang on sir you underestimate me! but only because i haven't fully updated my signature. :D when i do update it you'll see things like my harmon kardon receiver and bose surrounds with an infinity sub. which is, i know, probably still not worthy of these infamous MIT connections. I'll settle with my custom Monstercables for now :)


    Seriously, be careful about putting a high quality cable on the Bose surrounds. If you are using AM-5's as surrounds, a high quality cable will actually make those speakers sound worse, not better! I know that sounds nuts, but Bose uses the resistance of the cable that is included with the AM-5 speakers as part of the system. I've owned them, and my friend has as well, and when we tried out some 12 gauge wire on them, they really did distort and sound very grainy. --I know some people are going to say they already distort and sound grainy, but the HQ wire really does make it worse.

    No joke, if anyone has a pair of AM-5's and would like to try and then post, please do.

    --Just as a side note, Bose also uses light bulbs in their crossovers in some speakers (again, not kidding). Especially in older Bose stuff, this is how they had such a HUGE power rating, and even sometimes stated that their speakers are incapable of being blown. What happens is, I'm sure many of you know, when an amplifier is clipping, the signal is no longer being sculpted by the amp. It's not a sign wave with peaks and dips, it's straight 120V, from the wall outlet to the speaker. That's why clipping an amp blows speakers more easily than overpowering a speaker.

    In Bose speakers that have the light bulbs, when the amp clips the light bulb takes the 120V, dissipating the energy as heat and light so it does not reach the speaker. Not kidding! I've seen the bulb inside AM-5 subs, old 601's, and old 501's. I'm not sure if others have that in their crossovers or not.
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited May 2009
    LBrize wrote: »
    Seriously, be careful about putting a high quality cable on the Bose surrounds. If you are using AM-5's as surrounds, a high quality cable will actually make those speakers sound worse, not better! I know that sounds nuts, but Bose uses the resistance of the cable that is included with the AM-5 speakers as part of the system. I've owned them, and my friend has as well, and when we tried out some 12 gauge wire on them, they really did distort and sound very grainy. --I know some people are going to say they already distort and sound grainy, but the HQ wire really does make it worse.

    No joke, if anyone has a pair of AM-5's and would like to try and then post, please do.

    --Just as a side note, Bose also uses light bulbs in their crossovers in some speakers (again, not kidding). Especially in older Bose stuff, this is how they had such a HUGE power rating, and even sometimes stated that their speakers are incapable of being blown. What happens is, I'm sure many of you know, when an amplifier is clipping, the signal is no longer being sculpted by the amp. It's not a sign wave with peaks and dips, it's straight 120V, from the wall outlet to the speaker. That's why clipping an amp blows speakers more easily than overpowering a speaker.

    In Bose speakers that have the light bulbs, when the amp clips the light bulb takes the 120V, dissipating the energy as heat and light so it does not reach the speaker. Not kidding! I've seen the bulb inside AM-5 subs, old 601's, and old 501's. I'm not sure if others have that in their crossovers or not.
    Hummm, first time I hear of "bose sinergy" ;)
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • mrbigbluelight
    mrbigbluelight Posts: 9,730
    edited May 2009
    LBrize wrote: »
    --Just as a side note, Bose also uses light bulbs in their crossovers in some speakers (again, not kidding). Especially in older Bose stuff, this is how they had such a HUGE power rating, and even sometimes stated that their speakers are incapable of being blown. What happens is, I'm sure many of you know, when an amplifier is clipping, the signal is no longer being sculpted by the amp. It's not a sign wave with peaks and dips, it's straight 120V, from the wall outlet to the speaker. That's why clipping an amp blows speakers more easily than overpowering a speaker.

    In Bose speakers that have the light bulbs, when the amp clips the light bulb takes the 120V, dissipating the energy as heat and light so it does not reach the speaker. Not kidding! I've seen the bulb inside AM-5 subs, old 601's, and old 501's. I'm not sure if others have that in their crossovers or not.


    That's interesting, Lbrize. First I had ever heard of that and, to be honest, I had to check the calendar to make sure it wasn't April 1st.

    Did a little googling, though and ..... well, if you're incorrect about the bulb thing, you're not the only one.

    http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=30690

    I'm not going to get into a Bose bashing thread here so know that up front. The 901 is one of the few speakers I've heard that doesn't show off differences in electronics that much. I think it's due in large part to the light bulbs they use internally to dissipate amplifier DC if an amp clips. They put them in for reliability but they choke the signal that gets to the drivers. If you plan on keeping the 901s, then it sounds like the RB-1080 you have would make sense. If you plan on upgrading the speakers, then look at the RB-1092 when that happens.



    http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/3/197889.html

    Bose's claim that they are "unrated" in terms of power handling stems from having light bulbs inside the bass cabinet that burn off excess power when needed, not because they are built tough.


    Not much luck in finding a 901 wiring schematic; I'd be interested in seeing what these components actually are that are being called "bulbs".

    :confused:
    Sal Palooza
  • LBrize
    LBrize Posts: 58
    edited May 2009
    I have some Bose speakers in my closet. Yes, that's where I keep them. If I were brave enough to wade through the jungle of the closet, and not too lazy, I may take some apart and snap some pics of the light bulbs in the old 501 crossovers. They may also be in the new(est) 501s, so I could probably get a couple of pics posted. I honestly didn't make it up, I took apart just about everything back in the day when I was learning about speaker design, crossover design, etc., and saw the bulbs first hand.

    Edit: Years ago when I bought those old 501s, I called Bose and they sent me a wiring schematic. Really great customer service back then, there was no charge. Again, while I was learning design, I called up tech support and asked them why and how the two woofers in the old AM-5 sub box, didn't cancel each other out, due the the front and the rear of the woofer firing into the same cabinet. The answer is because of the port tuning--the rear of the speakers are in a larger enclosure and are tuned deeper than the fronts of the woofers, which are in a smaller enclosure. This "kinda" acts as having four woofers. Bose didn't go into that much detail in their answer, but the tech guy didn't know the answer, and one of the engineers that designed the box actually hand wrote and mailed me a letter explaining the design of the box. I thought that was top notch for such a large company to do that.

    I may not love their stuff, but if their customer service is as good now as it was then, it can't be beat (uh, except by Polk customer service).
  • CoolJazz
    CoolJazz Posts: 570
    edited May 2009
    LBrize wrote: »
    What happens is, I'm sure many of you know, when an amplifier is clipping, the signal is no longer being sculpted by the amp. It's not a sign wave with peaks and dips, it's straight 120V, from the wall outlet to the speaker. That's why clipping an amp blows speakers more easily than overpowering a speaker.
    That nasty flat line AC!! :confused: :eek: I hate it when that happens.... :rolleyes:

    I guess I have heard of bypassing. Guess thats how the leak occurs from the wall outlet, direct to the speaker.
    LBrize wrote: »
    Bose also uses light bulbs in their crossovers in some speakers...
    This is a not uncommon technique. Many different crossovers have incorporated bulbs. Rumor has it that while it protects the drivers, it does tend to spotlight certain notes!!! ;)

    CoolJazz
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."

    More amazing Internet Science Pink Panther wisdom..."My DAC has since been upgraded from Mark Levinson to Topping."
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2009
    There is a series of vintage Polks that also have a light bulb in the crossover.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Rodney King
    Rodney King Posts: 4
    edited May 2009
    dont make me call Rodney king!

    U rang?
    Can't we all just get along?
  • LBrize
    LBrize Posts: 58
    edited May 2009
    wow. I didn't know that othe speakers used those as well. I'm actually surprised that some Polks used them. I always thought that by incorporating the bulbs into the system, well I thought that's what made Bose speakers not sound so great. The 501 series V for instance. I have good equipment, but those speakers always sound extremely grainy. Sometimes there's even a "SSSS" sound on female focals and trumpets. Norah Jones "Come Away With Me" is by far one of my best sounding CDs and it sounded all hissy and distorted on those spearkers.
This discussion has been closed.