What Mono Blocks or amp would you get ?

124

Comments

  • I-SIG
    I-SIG Posts: 2,243
    edited November 2007
    What would you recommend as lower cost, higher performance replacements for the JC 1 and why?

    And that's the 64,000 dollar question! (Or $10-12k in this case! :D)

    Wes
    Link: http://polkarmy.com/forums

    Sony 75" Bravia 4K | Polk Audio SDA-SRS's (w/RDO's & Vampire Posts) + SVS PC+ 25-31 | AudioQuest Granite (mids) + BWA Silver (highs) | Cary Audio CAD-200 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Rotel Michi P5 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Cambridge Audio azur 840C--Wadia 170i + iPod jammed w/ lossless audio--Oppo 970 | Pure|AV PF31d
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2007
    Bingo !!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    Crap . . . there comes a point in every boy's life when he has to own up to his mistake and call himself a dumbass. I typed out this whole spiel about the JC-1 compared to other amps from MF, Odyssey and McCormack and then just read the Parasounds retail for $6000 per pair. Silly me . . . I thought they were $6000 a piece. For $6,000 a piece you can do better, but given the JC-1's are a pair for $6,000. Well . . . I'm going to have to concede to everyone against me on this one. You guys win. White flag.
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    Sorry to get your hopes up . . . my big war fizzled out.
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2007
    squal,

    You had a solid choice bro...

    I read, I liked what I read....

    It`s a contender.....

    I started this because my 1st choice was the JC-1 mono`s and wanted to see what else was out there, just like I-SIG said....
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    right . . . the H2O's are a pretty good choice, but the JC-1 has some stiff specs. I emailed the maker of the M250SA for some more detailed specs, but have not heard back from him. Since last he and talked, I believe he told me the memory of the S250 was 360,000 uF. If I am reading the JC-1 specs, I believe the H20 is superior.
  • read-alot
    read-alot Posts: 812
    edited November 2007
    SolidSqual wrote: »
    Sorry to get your hopes up . . . my big war fizzled out.

    Never was as much as an uprising in my book.:)

    BTW: J Curl used very conservative published specs on his namesake, the true numbers will surprise.
    polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
    Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
    JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
    Rega Apollo
    MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)

    polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
    B&K 505
    Samsung LCD
    VIP 622
    HSU STF-2
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    read-alot wrote: »
    Never was as much as an uprising in my book.:)

    I had big plans to take Parasound by Storm. I once owned the Halo A23 and loved it. The major problem as I see with those amps is that they get real real hot. The H2O by contrast is well . . . ICE.
  • read-alot
    read-alot Posts: 812
    edited November 2007
    SolidSqual wrote: »
    I had big plans to take Parasound by Storm. I once owned the Halo A23 and loved it. The major problem as I see with those amps is that they get real real hot. The H2O by contrast is well . . . ICE.

    Yep the outside temp never got up today so I helped the heat pump, I played mine loud today.
    polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
    Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
    JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
    Rega Apollo
    MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)

    polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
    B&K 505
    Samsung LCD
    VIP 622
    HSU STF-2
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited November 2007
    read-alot wrote: »
    Yep the outside temp never got up today so I helped the heat pump, I played mine loud today.

    Your JC 1's do double duty as space heaters? You must have hotrodded the class A bias or you're playing at window shattering sound levels.:)

    I was going to be away from home most of day four. I set up my backup Adcom GCD-750 CD player to play at a high level (105 dB) while I was gone. I returned 6 hours later and expected to find my amp’s heat sinks to be very hot, but they were only 116 degrees and 121 degrees respectively. They idle at 105 degrees and 108 degrees respectively.

    I should ad that I run my JC 1's in the high bias setting (class A up to the 1st 25 watts) and they are in a well ventilated cabinet with mesh metal doors, mesh metal sides, and an open back. The heatsinks get too hot for me to comfortably place my hand on them for more than a few seconds, but the heat thrown off by them is mostly localized. The faceplate, case top, and rear only get warm to the touch. Even when pushing them hard, the temperature on the top shelf in the cabinet only gets up to 90 degrees. I have to bring my hand to within three inches directly above the heat sinks or top cover before I feel any heat emanating.

    (I knew read-alot was kidding-at least I hope he was:eek:. I didn't want beardog to think that JC 1's run excessively hot.)
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • I-SIG
    I-SIG Posts: 2,243
    edited November 2007
    SolidSqual wrote: »
    Sorry to get your hopes up . . . my big war fizzled out.

    No problem!

    I'm thinking of spending $1500-2500 sometime next year on a big damn tube amp, but if the right deal came along, I would certainly consider spending up to $3500, hence my interest in the JC-1's, et al. I know that is way low compared to most of the stuff in this thread, but used I'm starting to get into the low end of this thread.

    Anyway, I have no dog in this race just wanting to see what everyone comes up with.

    Wes
    Link: http://polkarmy.com/forums

    Sony 75" Bravia 4K | Polk Audio SDA-SRS's (w/RDO's & Vampire Posts) + SVS PC+ 25-31 | AudioQuest Granite (mids) + BWA Silver (highs) | Cary Audio CAD-200 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Rotel Michi P5 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Cambridge Audio azur 840C--Wadia 170i + iPod jammed w/ lossless audio--Oppo 970 | Pure|AV PF31d
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited November 2007
    SolidSqual wrote: »
    I had big plans to take Parasound by Storm. I once owned the Halo A23 and loved it. The major problem as I see with those amps is that they get real real hot. The H2O by contrast is well . . . ICE.
    Same here.

    Had a Halo A23. Liked it quite a bit. It ran hot. Went with the Sanders amp. Runs :cool: LOTS of power. Drives the panels on my ESL's with EASE (which its made to do). McLoki's CINEPRO had issues with the panels @ the Chicagoland PF and that CINEPRO is a stout amp. Just cause an amp can handle a 1 ohm load doesn't mean it can handle the speed at which an ESL can drop to a 1 ohm load.

    As taken from Sander's amp white paper - With 18 output transistors per channel, "the output stage can deliver a staggering 135 amps of current with a combined, theoretical power rating of 2500 watts per channel."

    It can handle any type of speaker, though it really excels with ESLs. One thing's for sure.....it'll never clip!
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • Music Joe
    Music Joe Posts: 459
    edited November 2007
    Coda CX Monoblocks Pics+review

    These certainly look interesting,Threshold ancestry,50 watt sliding bias class A,decent warranty,rebiasing offered to optimize different speakers.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited November 2007
    There is a nice pair of Joule mono's on agon,,,I heard a pair once,, but was quickly escourted out of the room when it was discovered that I did not have the money to pay for them.:)

    Hehe.....









    Let add one thing here folks, specs alone are not a reason to buy any piece of gear.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2007
    uh nevermind..


    Late post....somethn about my HCA-3500 puttin off heat !!




    carry on.....
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited November 2007
    beardog03 wrote: »
    I am A detailed , tubey kinda guy.....if that makes sense to anyone other than myself !!

    so why buy sand???? other than cost.

    RT1
  • read-alot
    read-alot Posts: 812
    edited November 2007

    (I knew read-alot was kidding-at least I hope he was:eek:. I didn't want beardog to think that JC 1's run excessively hot.)


    Yes I was.:)

    They are always set to high bias and the heat has never been an issue.
    polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
    Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
    JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
    Rega Apollo
    MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)

    polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
    B&K 505
    Samsung LCD
    VIP 622
    HSU STF-2
  • W WALDECKER
    W WALDECKER Posts: 900
    edited November 2007
    Hey Beardog,There is a Balanced Audio Technology VK600SE on Agon for $7500. dual monos in a single chassis with seperate power chords for each channel. It retails for $13000 and is a Beast of a amp and it is BAT's flagship SS poweramplifier.There is also a pair of BAT VK150SE tube monoblocks for $8500 and they are BAT's flagship tube amplifiers. The VK150SE's retail for $18000 a pair and if i had the money to spare i would buy them for myself. good luck amp hunting!.....WCW III
    Rogue Audio stereo 100 tube amplifier - Lector Zoe preamplifier with 6H30 pi's
    .Audience AU24SE speaker and ic cables- Chord Qutest DAC - Black Cat Silverstar II 75ohm digital cable-Tyler Acoustics Linbrook Signature system with large bass cabinets to accommodate 10" Seas magnesium woofers.2xhmpsuownoj.jpg
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    Just finished talking to Hung Ho of H2O audio. He's got me pretty pumped about the S100, but I may step it up to the S250 to future proof myself. (Though I don't knwo if future proofing is possible in this hobby?)

    The H2O S100 has 400000uf for the output power supply alone and about 10000uf for the front end.

    How does this measure up?
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    Right, but I like Hung Ho
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    Its festive and raunchy
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2007
    SolidSqual wrote: »
    Just finished talking to Hung Ho of H2O audio. He's got me pretty pumped about the S100, but I may step it up to the S250 to future proof myself. (Though I don't knwo if future proofing is possible in this hobby?)

    The H2O S100 has 400000uf for the output power supply alone and about 10000uf for the front end.

    How does this measure up?

    No amplifier on the earth would actually need 400000uf of capacitance, it's overkill. Do you mean 40k?
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    "As far as Henry is concerned, his new recipe -- of combining an analog modulator board with a traditional overbuilt power supply -- outperforms his previous Class A designs. He's considering to eventually experiment with the ASP boards to modify their switch-mode power supplies just to expand his insight into this particular Class D approach and discover what happens if one builds the same kind of headroom and apparent overkill energy storage into them as has been done here. But at heart, Henry's clearly an analog man. He doesn't believe there's such a thing as a power supply that's too large."

    This from the 6 Moons: http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/h2o/m250.html
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2007
    RT1,

    Not just looking at sand, but I have found a great, I mean great pre amp with my Cary F1, and I like the muscle of sand and the sound of tubes, hence....

    Solid,

    I was reading about the 250SA....
    It`s sounds like a contender....from what I have read...

    W.W.

    You must be reading my mind..!
    I have been seriously checking out the BAT gear on the `Gon....I have heard nothing but good things about BAT also...

    A very good freind of mine has suggested BAT also...


    I am concidering getting a pair of Cary V12i F1 mono`s...
    I know from my short experience with tubes that in the summer , the listening sessions would require serious fannage with that many tubes burning ..;):D


    Have I mentioned how much I dig Cary Audio....Parasound.....Polk Audio..?!!

    I do want to expand the ol horizons though

    My neighbor has some almost brand new (mint) B&W speaks that she wants to sell me...she told me about them this morning as I gave her a ride into the City , on my way to work...

    She is never home and they are not even at the 40 hr mark...I am sure I will get them for a song....I`ll post what they are when I go check `em out this weekend..


    Back to the amps....

    Jesse suggested some Tube mono`s that I really dig, and the Cary`s have been on my list for a long while now, but like I said....The muscle of sand, and the beauty of tubes seems to be the best match so far...


    MAN, I love the audio journey.....
    I love music, and I love this hobby...



    THe wife ?

    Not so much !!










    you guys are alright too...!!!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited November 2007
    InnerSound iPower 750 Mono Blocks. InnerSound was Sanders 1st company.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited November 2007
    those look nice...have you ever had any experience with Innersound ?

    I wish There was a place to hear all the choices that are out there...
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited November 2007
    beardog03 wrote: »
    those look nice...have you ever had any experience with Innersound ?

    I wish There was a place to hear all the choices that are out there...
    Yes. InnerSound was (Roger) Sanders 1st co. Excellent stuff. Sanders works on InnerSound gear.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • Music Joe
    Music Joe Posts: 459
    edited November 2007
    Music Joe wrote: »
    Coda CX Monoblocks Pics+review

    These certainly look interesting,Threshold ancestry,50 watt sliding bias class A,decent warranty,rebiasing offered to optimize different speakers.

    Those are these ,Innersound I mean :)
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited November 2007
    indeed (kinda sorta) ;):)
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited November 2007
    Hey,

    Scratch the H2O Signatures and go for Odysstey Stratos Dual Mono. I just found out the H2O only has a 1 year warranty! Odyssey has 20 years and its transferrable!