Dedicated Line?
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Because if there was a failure to occur on that line that drew excessive current then a 15amp breaker would trip sooner than would a 20 amp.Better fault protection, how do you figure?
Mike it is for this reason that I ran the 12ga wire to feed my amps.The fact that I use the smaller breaker does not diminish this.but I believe skimping on your power isn't one of them.Testing
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Because if there was a failure to occur on that line that drew excessive current then a 15amp breaker would trip sooner than would a 20 amp.
Mike it is for this reason that I ran the 12ga wire to feed my amps.The fact that I use the smaller breaker does not diminish this.
True to a point, but that's not the real reason behind a breaker? If something electronically is drawing excessive power, then the fuse on the unit itself is what blows/breaks. The breaker is just a distribution of power, you don't want to overload and trip it.
I'm no expert by any means, but that to me just makes no sense. -
Had to consult with my father on this one(who's a retired electrician).
You are suppose to match the load size to breaker, which I see in what you are saying now. But there is no "fault" protection, unless you get a fault protection breaker, a regular breaker will not have fault protection.
I have three amps on one 20 amp breaker, and If I crank my system to loud levels, I can easily push the 15 amp rating. The reason I would always use 20 amp circuits for my HT. -
Yes that IS the whole purpose and function of the breaker.Internal fuses within a component are not going to protect for a fault that happens between the service panel and the AC wall outlet.but that's not the real reason behind a breaker?Testing
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When I say fault I mean a short,not a ground fault which a GFCI outlet protects against.but there is no "fault" protection, unless you get a fault protection breaker, a regular breaker will not have fault protection.
Yes and apparently my amps current demands are within the 15 amp rating of the breaker im using.I have three amps on one 20 amp breaker, and If I crank my system to loud levels, I can easily push the 15 amp rating. The reason I would always use 20 amp circuits for my HT.Testing
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GV, I think he means Arc Fault, which would be on the breaker.
So, are the lines in yet?????????????????????????????? I'm on to new digs in 12-14 months, so I'm not putting a line in here, but will be at the new place. I'd love to read about the improvement. Maybe post a new thead. . .. I've done my part in derailing. . sorry.-Ignorance is strength - -
Thanks SK that may well be what he meant.SKsolutions wrote: »GV, I think he means Arc Fault, which would be on the breaker.
Apologies to you EarlyB for sidetracking the thread.Testing
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SKsolutions wrote: »So, are the lines in yet?????????????????????????????? I'm on to new digs in 12-14 months, so I'm not putting a line in here, but will be at the new place. I'd love to read about the improvement. Maybe post a new thead. . .. I've done my part in derailing. . sorry.
Not yet. Hopefully, it'll go in on Saturday. Just depends on the availability of the installer. I'm gonna buy the wire tomorrow. When it's done, I'll start another thread.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
You are going to like what they do top to bottom.
