Aftermarket air intake sys...

MKZ

appadv wrote: »

I'm currently working on the weight reduction - taking out a few unnecessary things made the car quicker and also the fuel economy improved.

One question: what would you suggest removing? Spare tire and jack? Floor mats? Carpeting?

+ cruise control, A/C, power windows, seats.

Serendipity

MKZ wrote: »

+ cruise control, A/C, power windows, seats.

I'm a novice when it comes to car stuff.

As far as removing things, I'd say the following:
1. Cruise control - don't know how
2. A/C - don't know how
3. Power windows - absolutely necessary
4. Seats - what are you going to sit on?

I was thinking spare tire and jack, but what about when you get a flat tire?

audiobliss

You can definitely take out the spare and jack, but as you pointed out, you'll hafta call a friend to come help you. Unless your tires are fun-flats. I've also heard about cans of stuff you can put in the tire to seal up a flat, but I have NO idea if they work. But you could keep one of those cheap kits from walmart to fix flats with you.

But as for what else to take out, anything and everything that 1) doesn't interfere with safety and 2) you don't use.

You could take out the A/C if you're sure you wouldn't miss it, but that would be rather involved. Somebody else could explain all that would be involved.

I can't imagine that ditching the cruise control would save much wegiht. However, it might be worth looking into.

Carpet, sound deadening, rear seat, etc. If you don't use your trunk much, you could take all the carpet and sound deadening and stuff out of there.

Serendipity

audiobliss wrote: »

You can definitely take out the spare and jack, but as you pointed out, you'll hafta call a friend to come help you. Unless your tires are fun-flats. I've also heard about cans of stuff you can put in the tire to seal up a flat, but I have NO idea if they work. But you could keep one of those cheap kits from walmart to fix flats with you.

But as for what else to take out, anything and everything that 1) doesn't interfere with safety and 2) you don't use.

You could take out the A/C if you're sure you wouldn't miss it, but that would be rather involved. Somebody else could explain all that would be involved.

I can't imagine that ditching the cruise control would save much wegiht. However, it might be worth looking into.

Carpet, sound deadening, rear seat, etc. If you don't use your trunk much, you could take all the carpet and sound deadening and stuff out of there.

Will look into all that.

Jstas mentioned something about lightweight wheels, can you guys enlighten me on what difference that will make? And what do you guys recommend?

audiobliss

Oh, lightweight wheels would be AWESOME! It will lower the overall weight, and it'll be a lot easier for the engine to get them to spinning, so faster acceleration. And faster decceleration. Though probably negligible, also better fuel economy.

Lighter wheels are a definite must.

Serendipity

audiobliss wrote: »

Oh, lightweight wheels would be AWESOME! It will lower the overall weight, and it'll be a lot easier for the engine to get them to spinning, so faster acceleration. And faster decceleration. Though probably negligible, also better fuel economy.

Lighter wheels are a definite must.

OK, so what brands would you recommend and where should I get them from?

audiobliss

The Tire Rack is a great place to do some research.

I personally have no clue on what brands to look at. But I'd just start searching through that website. They'll let you enter your car and show you only what will fit. Then hopefully someone will chime in with their recommendations.

audiobliss

I don't know what's the best or what you shoudl really look for specifically besides lightweight, but I do know these are good brands:

BBS
Enkei
Motegi
OZ
Volk

I think Volk is about the best, but you'll really pay for them, though.

audiobliss

Exactly what year is your Maxima? Se? GXE?

Serendipity

1. Year - 2000
2. Se? GXE? Don't know off the top of my head.

audiobliss

2000 Maxima suspension bushings:
http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=1684+4294966963+11369+5888

Though replacing more of the suspension would yield even better handling results. However, I have no idea what's out there for the Maxima.

Serendipity

audiobliss wrote: »

2000 Maxima suspension bushings:
http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=1684+4294966963+11369+5888

Though replacing more of the suspension would yield even better handling results. However, I have no idea what's out there for the Maxima.

Is this something a DIYer could do, or is it too advanced for someone like me?

I was thinking about sticking to the basics - wheels, tires, intake, exhaust, etc.

audiobliss

You should be able to handle the suspension just fine on your own. You might have to take it somewhere to get it re-aligned when you're done, but I don't foresee anything too complicated.

Serendipity

audiobliss wrote: »

You should be able to handle the suspension just fine on your own. You might have to take it somewhere to get it re-aligned when you're done, but I don't foresee anything too complicated.

Thanks. Now how much will all this cost?

Or should I just save my money and get a pair of Polk LSi15 instead?

audiobliss

Hahaha. Which to 'invest' in is totally up to you. I have no idea what kind of money you're looking at. Probably anywhere from a few hundred to a grand for suspension, depeding on how much you do.

I would certainly look into chassis stiffener, under the hood strut tower brace, thicker sway bars, etc. All that shouldn't add up to too much.

Serendipity

audiobliss wrote: »

Hahaha. Which to 'invest' in is totally up to you. I have no idea what kind of money you're looking at. Probably anywhere from a few hundred to a grand for suspension, depeding on how much you do.

I would certainly look into chassis stiffener, under the hood strut tower brace, thicker sway bars, etc. All that shouldn't add up to too much.

Which one of the aforementioned upgrades would have the most "bang for the buck"? I want to focus on the upgrades that make the most improvement first.

McLoki

If you have not ordered the intake yet - about the best prices on stuff I have found is as Rock Auto. I have ordered from them and have not had any problems at all. They carry tons of products for great prices.

Just an FYI - worth a look

Michael

BTW - as far as intakes go, K&N seem to be kind of overpriced for what you actually get. They maybe great for your application, but were not the recommended route to go for my car at the time. (charger) On the charger forums K&N intakes seem to get about the same respect as Bose does here. (there drop in filters are well regarded though.

auto_pilot

I installed an ECIS CAI on my 97 M3...I noticed better throttle response immediately. I actually lost some response when I installed my aftermarket cat back exhaust...But gained it back with my CAI. I also notice that the colder the day the better the response.

From what I read in the mags, and dynos...I gain some in the top end...and possibly better gas mileage...but then again I wouldn't be installing these goodies for better mpg:)

MikeC78

I love how people "mod" their vehicle with these items claiming better gas mileage. Then they can't keep their foot off the gas. Hilarious...

auto_pilot

appadv wrote: »

Which one of the aforementioned upgrades would have the most "bang for the buck"? I want to focus on the upgrades that make the most improvement first.

For the money...Performance driving school is the best start.

Mod wise...pads/rotors (ie Brakes) are the ones most people get the best response first IMO. CAI and exhausts don't make the biggest difference...Unless your car has a turbo or super charger already...changing out the exhaust can make a huge difference in some applications.

Serendipity

MikeC78 wrote: »

I love how people "mod" their vehicle with these items claiming better gas mileage. Then they can't keep their foot off the gas. Hilarious...

I'm not looking for performance with these "mods." I usually go slow, like 50-53 MPH in a 55 zone. So my goal is fuel economy.

MKZ

appadv wrote: »

I'm not looking for performance with these "mods." I usually go slow, like 50-53 MPH in a 55 zone. So my goal is fuel economy.

Just don't raise the rpm much when you start to roll off. It doesn't worth to take off your luxury for gas. The people do those mod for 1/10th of the sec faster.
If you just only want to save the gas, change the air/fuel filter often, get better ignition cable and plugs.

audiobliss

Yeah, the K&N filter Jstas was talking about and that appadv installed is just the paper filter element that goes in the stock air box; I'm guessing $20 - $30.

The more expensive FIPK kits are really expensive and not worth it.

audiobliss

Wow, there were a few posts between when I read and between when I posted.

Serendipity

MKZ wrote: »

Just don't raise the rpm much when you start to roll off. It doesn't worth to take off your luxury for gas. The people do those mod for 1/10th of the sec faster.

I noticed that too, if you take off at less than 2000 RPM the gas mileage improves substantially.

AB - don't you do the opposite?

audiobliss

The opposite being take off at redline? I have an automatic. You HAVE to 'take off' at whatever the torque converter is set at.

And when I first start it up in the mornings, I try my best not to take it over 2200rpm 'til it warms up. Then, if I'm driving normal (i.e. don't have a need to nail it to get into a tight spot in traffic), it usually doesn't see more than about 3000rpm during normal commute.

Serendipity

audiobliss wrote: »

The opposite being take off at redline? I have an automatic. You HAVE to 'take off' at whatever the torque converter is set at.

HAHA no you don't. 1500-2000 is fine for me.

audiobliss

How the heck can you take off at 1500 - 2000 in an automatic unless you rev it up to that point in neutral and dump it in drive (VERY bad for the transmission) or just hold it against the brake and probably break the rear tires loose (just realy stupid)?

Serendipity

audiobliss wrote: »

How the heck can you take off at 1500 - 2000 in an automatic unless you rev it up to that point in neutral and dump it in drive (VERY bad for the transmission) or just hold it against the brake and probably break the rear tires loose (just realy stupid)?

eh? I don't do either.

Just 1500-2000 is enough to get going in everyday traffic.

audiobliss

You're not talking about what you 'take off at'. As in, what rpm your engine is turning when you start moving. You're talking about the rpm point at which you (or the tranny) shifts.