i need help !

98thumpin

heya yall im new to this car audio stuff but i love polk and i love music? im getting a new system it will be a panasonic CQ-C7301U head unit. i am going to have two polk db690 6" W x 9" L for my rear deck, and two polk db570 5" W x 7" L for the front doors. ok do i need dynamatt if so how much will it run approx?. also im getting a mono amp and a sub i want the polk db212-2 subbox but i dont know what kinda of amp ill need to run these bad boys would a 500 watt amp do it or do i need a 1000 watt amp will the polk C500.1 Monoblock do the trick or do i need two of them. and will my head unit have enough power to run the speakers its a 50 x 4 head unit
thanks
please help me
tyler

neomagus00

humm... do you NEED dynamat, no, but more is better... if you notice rattles, especially with the sub, or if you want to decrease road noise, dynamat extreme or Second Skin is the way to go...

the db box wants 720 watts, and the 500.1 is rated at 500... however, tests have shown it capable of up to nearly 700, but you don't want to count on that... it has only one set of terminals that reads 2 ohms, so you can't strap 2 amps on that... i think that this kicker amp would fit the bill... it's gonna be hard to keep the cost down on 600+ watts, but i think that's a decent buy...

as far as your headunit, it's not really 50x4, that's a peak value, and peak values are worthless... the HU is actually more like 11 to 15 watts per channel, which will move the speakers, but an amplifier will truly open them up (both in quality and volume)...

if you tell us your budget, we can help you juggle things around to fit your needs... for example, getting rid of the rear 6x9s may be a good choice - you don't need the extra bass, and you can use the money towards something else (plus, having no rears makes the fronts sound better)...

98thumpin

my budget isabout 1,650 total im not trying to drain my wallet to much. what does the different number ohms mean i know ohm is a measure of resestence and the lower the ohm the better, but i dont understand it? what would be a good amp to handle the four polks i wont get rid of the rear 6 x 9s cause i want my **** LOUD!!!!! and i want it to BOOM!!!!! for my money i orginally thought about getting a bazooka ba1500 monoblock to drive a jensen BP212 bandpass box would that be a good setup? this sub is rated at 400 Watts RMS / 1200 Watts Peak Power, and the amp is rated at :

Voltage 10.5 -14 v
Power Output 500 watts
Channels 1
Frequency Response 20-250
Fuse 30 Amps
Crossover YES
Protection Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload
Max Power Output 500 watts
Power @ 4 OHM 300
Power @ 2 OHM 500
Power @ 1 OHM NOT RECCOMENDED
Power @ .5 OHM NOT RECOMMENDED
Signal To Noise Ratio >90db
Battery Voltage Range 10.5-14.4
Crossover Range 40Hz - 200
Bass EQ YES
Auxillary Fuse no
Remote Control optional
RCA Input yes
Auto Turn On no
Subsonic Filter no

its a great lookin sub box and i heard it hooked up to this amp at the store and i thumped real well. help me makle sense of this please thanks

Greg Peters

I would seriously re-think that Jensen idea. The Polk db212-2 is a screamer if you prefer a pre-made, loaded dual sub enclosure (for a reasonable price).

For the money they'll charge you for the Bazooka amplifier, I'd bet you could get a more reputable brand (2005 model) on clearance...many choices. While you wouldn't want to drastically underpower something like the db212-2 sub box, look at amps' 2ohm wattage rating for something in the 500-700w range to do the job. The higher quality the amplifier, the cleaner the sound at higher listening levels (you wanted boom, right?), and generally, more reserve for peak power demands in your music. The lower quality amplifiers over-rate their peak output (and put out lots of distortion nearing those numbers), do not typically rate their products to industry standards such as CEA-2006.

The reason you would get rid of the 6x9s (or at least cross them over fairly high) is because if you do plan on running subwoofers, the lower frequencies coming from your 6x9s will cause cancellation with upper bass frequencies from your subwoofer. That equals less output rather than more, or at the very least some muddy sounding mid-bass.

It is better to by decent quality components piece by piece (as funds permit) rather than getting into the lower end gear. You'll either be dissapointed by the sound once its in the car, or dissapointed once those bargains blow up prematurely and you have to replace them.

neomagus00

how bout this package:
Pioneer DEH-P3800MP - $130, includes a harness and dash kit
Polk MMC570 - $170
Kicker KX200.2 - $141
Polk DB212-2 - $430
Kicker KX1200.1 - $550
Stinger SWK4D Kit - $60

That's everything I can think of that you need - it gives you great sound in the front, plus awesome bass in the trunk, for a total of $1481 plus tax. If you can squeak out a bit more cash, upgrading the speakers to component would be the next step.

Note that I got rid of the 6x9s... not only will they mess with your sound, as mentioned, but the pressure from the bass in the trunk can fairly easily destroy them, when mounted in the rear deck...

98thumpin

that makes sense but whatr should i use in the rear besides the 6x9 polks and also the sub will be in the trunk of my crown vic so itll be muffled some anyhow i know to face the sub towards the rear of the car to get better sound. i dont want a competition system or anything but i love my music but i dont want to spen more than about 1650 at most on the system total, later down the road ill get better stuff dont get me wrong, does jensen make a bad product i always though they were pretty good i know polk is the best out there, and the db212-2 is an awesome sub my dad has three in his suburban talk about boom!!! what would i need to cross over the 6x9s in the rear, and could i have circuit city do that for me cause im not knowledgable enough to install this stuff my self. and is it something i could do down the road if i decide to? i really appreciate all the help i can get. you guys are very knowledgeable about car audio.
thanks again

neomagus00

the setup i gave you neglects rear speakers for a number of reasons:
1) they mess with the sound quality of the fronts
2) they cost money
3) they won't get loud without an amplifier, and that costs more money
4) speakers in the rear deck are subject to destruction by the subwoofer

i used the money that would have been used for the rear speakers and instead put it towards better front sound...

as far as the db212-2 goes, it's a very high-quality product... since you'll have empty 6x9 holes in the rear deck, the sound will get through to the cabin with almost zero degradation, so you don't have to worry about 'muffled' bass...

i dunno about jensen, but i think that you'll be much more satisfied with the polk... better to spend a bit extra now, and be happy, than spend almost as much, and be less happy... see, money really does buy happiness!

yes, you should get it installed, but try to find an audio store that isn't CC or BB to do it... again, it'll be a little bit more expensive, but it will be well worth it - as several people here can testify, the installers in the huge chains don't usually have any clue what they're doing...

98thumpin

that setup sounds good and i love it but i dont have a credit card so i cant buy it offline im having circuit city do the install and everything and thats where im going to get my stuff at too cause there close to where i live so i need stuff that will do the job but cost a total of about 1,500 so would like something that actually costs less than that. if possible

98thumpin

basically im looking for a entry level system that has great sound and bass, blistering highs, clear sound, deep bass, with the boom factor i just like having four speakers in the car i have a big car and i dont like all the sound up front

Greg Peters

98thumpin wrote:

basically im looking for a entry level system that has great sound and bass, blistering highs, clear sound, deep bass, with the boom factor i just like having four speakers in the car i have a big car and i dont like all the sound up front

An entry level system that can pull that off? Many huge dollar systems come close to those goals and still leave room for improvement.

Does Jensen make a bad product? I would lump Jensen, Pyramid, Pyle, Lightning Audio (and some Sony) together and say they all make product that is less than OK on a good day, product that is not clean, powerful, blistering or great sounding etc. These products are for people who are not picky, or just want to replace damaged factory stuff without much thought or caring. If the store that wants to sell you Jensen stuff has a good return policy, you could hook it up in the car and see for yourself. Jensen was very popular 25 years ago in the early days of aftermarket car audio (due to their price point), but even then were not known for great sound quality.

A lot of subwoofers in the typical electronics chain store all sound mediocre or sloppy, because they are put in an "off the rack" type box less than ideal for the woofer, or are not properly installed in the right box. Sub bass in the car uses "transfer function" of the enclosed space of your vehicle to boost the bottom end, and that is hard to pull of in a store display setting. Though a $12 sub will produce some bass notes, putting a cheapo sub box that is distorted, muddy, or sloppy in your car means that the transfer function gives you even more distortion, muddiness and slop. One good thing about Circuit City is that they used to demo some of their amps and subs in your vehicle, giving you a realistic idea of what it's going to sound like.

If you don't want to spend a lot, you can compromise and buy a middle of the road sub/amp combo well suited to each other. Hooking up a great sub to a cheap amp, or a great amp to a cheap sub will not give great results. Cheap amplifiers put out a lot of heat and distortion, are not stable, and can do a lot of harm to a subwoofer when turned up loud. You would be better off getting almost any brand but those above. Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, MTX, Infinity, JBL all make entry level amplifiers and subwoofers that would be way better than anything from Jensen. You could also consider getting one Polk db124 (in a home built or prefab box) and a middle of the road monoblock amp (with the right specs) for less cost.

If you spend some time shopping around, listening to different products, and properly matching your amp and sub together, you will probably do OK in getting something you can live with before upgrading. I understand that you want your system installed, up and running all at the same time, but if what you pay your hard earned cash for ends up sounding like garbage to your ears (and is now "used" equipment), it is a waste of $$. It's better to get the best stuff you can afford rather than cut corners with quality, and add to it as you go along, because there isn't a huge market for low-end used equipment to help you recoup your costs.

98thumpin

i figured 150 dollers was a bit cheap for a subbox i want 2 12s they will be in my trunk of my car i guess i just have to find out what i like is all i know the polk speakers will sound great,

[Deleted User]

neomagus00 wrote:

Kicker KX1200.1 - $550

Or you could go with THIS and save yourself $100. This amp is a proven combination that I know works great. You wouldn't be dissapointed.

98thumpin

i want a great amp and a great sub at a reasonable price, and stuff that wont tear up in two weeks either. is there an amp that will drive the polk db212-2 subs for under 1000 list price like in the 500 range.

neomagus00

josh - will the 500.1 push the db212-2 to its full potential? i mean, i know they're underrated, but that's way underrated... and i think this guy will be pushing them to the max on a regular basis...

neomagus00

other guy - polk stuff lasts for a wickedly long time, no worries there... the rest of the package i spec'd for you will, as well... as far as purchase prices go, you're really going to have to buy offline to get the best deal... if you need to, open a checking account and get a debit card, use that - that's what i always use online...

MacLeod

I LOVE the DB2122! If I had a vehicle that it would fit in Id buy one in a heart beat!

Hell Ive even thought about buying one anyway and making a pass or two thru the SPL lanes with it sitting on my backseat!

Get the DB2122 and the 500.1! Itll work just fine. The DB is rated for 720 and the 500.1 cleanly makes a smidge over 600 watts. That extra 100 would add up to about 1 db.

98thumpin

yes max them out i will i want to be able to blow away what i want when i want and i knwo thw db212-2 will do it but i cant a find a amp that will push them above 720 watts for around 500 dollers any ideas.?

Rogue Torino

So we wre all on the same level, Jensen sucks balls. I can make better bass with my ****. Go with the polk DB box.

p.s. Ebay can be your friend

MacLeod

This MTX is rated at 600 but I guarantee you will make 700! Its $580 tho which is a little over your budget.

This Rockford Fosgate would be another good choice. Its also rated at 600 watts but like the MTX will easily exceed that. $400.

98thumpin

nice looking amp but will it make the db212-2 sing are they good amps. im also open for ideas on otrher sub amp combos tooo

MacLeod

MTX are the top 1% of ampsand RF aint no slouch either. They dont have the reputation of some exotic brands because theyre sold in Circuit City and Best Buy respectively but they are built like tanks and make tons of clean power. That all you can ask for.

98thumpin

i was reading a review on the rf and apparently this guy doesnt like mainstream stuff but for me ive always heard good about mtx and rf, but what does SPL and SQ stand for im not familer with these terms. also ive decided on the polk db212-2 great sub heard on today in my friends crown vic, he was pushing his by a audiobahn do they make decent stuff,
tyler

neomagus00

audiobahn does not deserve to drive that db212-2... pbd will say differently, but he's spent a crazy amount of time making it work... go with one of the other rec's above...

spl = sound pressure level
sq = sound quality

generally, a sub is a compromise between these two things... for a $200 sub, you can buy it for sq, and it sounds good, but isn't loud, OR you can buy one that gets really loud, but sounds sloppy... or some compromise in between...

MacLeod

I tend not to brand bash and think virtually all the major brands make excellent equipment.....that is except for Audiobahn. I wont trash talk them but I will say youd be much happier looking elsewhere.

98thumpin

thansk again is the db212-2 a compromise in between sound quality and spl? i get you point im thinkin bout the rf or mtx suggested to me above. they look good and i like the companies. also will i need a better battrey or capacitor, and when would you need a capacitor?

MacLeod

You wont need a capacitor. You may need a battery upgrade tho if your current one is not up to snuff.

The DB2122 is an outstanding sub set. Ive heard them several times. They make considerable volume and sound great. So yes, it is a good blend of SPL and SQ.

98thumpin

well thats good why would ne one nbeed a capacitor i noticed they are not all that expensive from what i have seen. would an optima battery be good. choice and the hu i picked is a panasonic cq7301u it has

AUDIO FEATURES: .



Maximum Output Power 50W x 4

Digital Amplifier No view

MOS-FET Output Stage Yes

SRS CS Automotive No view

Sound Quality SQ7
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High & Low Pass Filters (crossover) Yes
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SBC-SW (Super Bass Controlled Subwoofer) Yes
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Muting Yes
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Attenuator Yes
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Bass, Treble, Balance Fader Controls Yes
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Speaker Impedance 4-8 ohms
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Pre-Amp Outputs (Front/Rear/Subwoofer) F/R/S
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Preamp Output Level/Impedance 2.5V/200 ohms
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Subwoofer Output Level/Impedance 2.5V/200 ohms
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RADIO FEATURES: .
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HD Radio™ 1 No view
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XM Satellite Radio Ready Yes
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Radio DSP No view
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FM/AM Presets 18/6
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Auto Preset Memory with Scan Yes
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FMO (FM Optimizer) Yes
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AFE (Adaptive FM Front End) Yes
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INQ (Impulse Noise Quieting) Yes
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CD FEATURES: .
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MP3/WMA Playback Yes
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CD-R/CD-RW Playback Yes
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Multi-stage Noise Shaping 1-bit DAC Yes
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3-Beam Hologram Pickup Yes
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One-chip Digital Circuit Yes
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CD Controls Scan, Search, Repeat and Random Play
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Pause Yes
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CD Text Display Yes
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CD CHANGER CONTROL: .
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Track/Disc Scan Yes
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Track/Disc Repeat Yes
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Search and Random Play Yes
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DISPLAY & OTHER FEATURES: .
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512 Color OEL Display No view
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High Definition 3D Dot Matrix LCD Display Customizable
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Large Rotary Knob Yes
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Super Bright Display with Dimmer Yes
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LCD Illumination Color Blue
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Button Illumination Color Light Blue
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Spectrum Analyzer Yes
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Level Meter No view
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Day & Night Design Yes
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AUX Input No view
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Fully Motorized Front Panel Yes
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Open Face CD Access Yes
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Removable Faceplate Yes
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Flashing Warning Light Yes
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Wireless Remote Control Yes
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Built-in Quartz Clock Yes
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Dimensions (H x W x D) 1.94'' x 7'' x 6.125''
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Weight 5.73 lbs
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pretty good for me looks great and has the preouts ineed cause i have a cd changer too.

98thumpin

im going to have the db212's in my truck and 6x9's in the rear deck as well as speakers in the front doors \, do i need to protect the rear deck speakers with baffles, to keep the pressure from hurting them, and if so will dynamatt work. also is dyna matt a good idea for the doors as well

neomagus00

whoa... um... i kinda missed the point of that ill-formatted cut-and-paste, but...

-for your purposes, you don't need a capacitor
-fine choice on the HU
-you may destroy the 6x9s in the rear deck, and no, dynamat or baffles won't help... the only thing that would help is a complete sealed box for them... another disadvantage of the 6x9s is that you're plugging the biggest holes between the trunk and cabin, which will affect your bass...
-dynamat is always a good idea

MacLeod

Youre not going to destroy the 6x9's. Your trunk is not airtight and while those DB's move some serious air, youll be fine.

neomagus00

i've seen it happen, man, especially if the 6x9s are being pushed hard at the same time...