Monitor 10 tweeter replacement.
Bleiz
Posts: 46
Hello Polk-folk everywhere, just got my 1:st pair of Polk speakers ever, had some posts here during autumn 23' regarding the Infinity RSIIIb I acquired at that time and still love.
Got me a pair of monitor 10 in black veneer the other week for a symbolic fee like 30 usd and they look mint just the one tweeter is blown (blewn?) so I wonder if the RDO 194-1 replacement might be any good and if so I suppose I'll need to replace both as opposed to the SL2000's different character?
I have just started to listen and compare them to the B&W Mythos 500 that stands underneath and those B&W's do sound more modern with a bit more resolution in the high-end/tweeters but it is very hard to say as they might just split different and so the question will I need and like to improve/recap the filters in the Monitor 10's?
(as of now the one tweeter that works sound a bit dull actually and compared
...)
Got me a pair of monitor 10 in black veneer the other week for a symbolic fee like 30 usd and they look mint just the one tweeter is blown (blewn?) so I wonder if the RDO 194-1 replacement might be any good and if so I suppose I'll need to replace both as opposed to the SL2000's different character?
I have just started to listen and compare them to the B&W Mythos 500 that stands underneath and those B&W's do sound more modern with a bit more resolution in the high-end/tweeters but it is very hard to say as they might just split different and so the question will I need and like to improve/recap the filters in the Monitor 10's?
(as of now the one tweeter that works sound a bit dull actually and compared
...)
magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B
Comments
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Buy two RD0194-1 tweeters. That is RDzero194-1.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Buy two RD0194-1 tweeters. That is RDzero194-1.
Thanks F1nut and how about the TL mod whatever that is or no need for this with those tweeters?magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
The RD0194-1 tweeters are a drop in replacement.
The TL mod requires a lot more work and different tweeters. You can read more about it here, https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/149215/monitor-10-rebuild-with-tl-modPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The RD0194-1 tweeters are a drop in replacement.
The TL mod requires a lot more work and different tweeters. You can read more about it here, https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/149215/monitor-10-rebuild-with-tl-mod
Allright so I'll go for the RD0194-1's as direct replacement then and skip crossover tweaking as these speakers have been stored and unplayed for at least 15 years until now, guessing the x-overs will be just fine.magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
Your ears will tell you if you need any new crossover parts.
-
The RD0194-1 tweeters are a drop in replacement.
The TL mod requires a lot more work and different tweeters. You can read more about it here, https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/149215/monitor-10-rebuild-with-tl-mod
Allright so I'll go for the RD0194-1's as direct replacement then and skip crossover tweaking as these speakers have been stored and unplayed for at least 15 years until now, guessing the x-overs will be just fine.
Even though the speakers have been unused for years the original electrolytic caps will have degraded not to mention they and the mylar were crap to start with. I highly recommend upgrading the crossover components regardless. With the RD0194-1 tweeters you would upgrade the component values like for like with film caps and non-inductive resistors such as Vishay-Mills.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Even though the speakers have been unused for years the original electrolytic caps will have degraded not to mention they and the mylar were crap to start with. I highly recommend upgrading the crossover components regardless. With the RD0194-1 tweeters you would upgrade the component values like for like with film caps and non-inductive resistors such as Vishay-Mills.
Did you see the last photo in my original post showing the crossover in my case? Doesn't look at all like anyone I've seen in any thread or photo on this subject, maybe a later revision with not so crappy caps?
magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
You have two crappy electrolytic caps, one crappy mylar and two crappy ceramic resistors.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You have two crappy electrolytic caps, one crappy mylar and two crappy ceramic resistors.
I can see 2 electro-caps + 1 mylar + 2 ceramic resistors + a blue "doublepack" in the middle looking like caps but seems to be a resistor 12.0k 250v ?! what about this one leave it be or is this the Mylar cap per se and what value if so, which brand to replace with...?
Post edited by Bleiz onmagictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
Also this Mylar cap what does it say regarding values? don't understand anything of the symbols etc...did a picture seek and it says it is a thermic resistor or even fuse???
magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
Also this Mylar cap what does it say regarding values? don't understand anything of the symbols etc...did a picture seek and it says it is a thermic resistor or even fuse???
That is a polyswitch, yes it is a type of fuse. Also called a thermister. Most of us replace them with a .5 ohm vishay-mills resistor. The problem with the polyswitch is as they age they tend to trip easier and easier. They cut power to the tweeter and "reset" once you turn the volume down. They're nasty little things!
The blue "doublepack" as you call it is a 12uf 250v mylar capacitor. -
[/quote]
That is a polyswitch, yes it is a type of fuse. Also called a thermister. Most of us replace them with a .5 ohm vishay-mills resistor. The problem with the polyswitch is as they age they tend to trip easier and easier. They cut power to the tweeter and "reset" once you turn the volume down. They're nasty little things!
The blue "doublepack" as you call it is a 12uf 250v mylar capacitor. [/quote]
Thanks for clearifying this to me ;-)
magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
I'm curious, right next to the screw head are the letters, Model 10 IIIT. Can you post a better pic of that lettering, please?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I'm curious, right next to the screw head are the letters, Model 10 IIIT. Can you post a better pic of that lettering, please?
Good that you noticed this F1, I missed it due to the focus on caps etc, to me it looks like it says model 10 / II T so what is this model
then and are those still crap components in need of upgrades?magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
Ok, you have the Monitor 10 Series 2, so the SL2000 tweeters in yours are the wrong ones. They should have been the SL2500. In which case means you want the RD0198-1 tweeters.
Yes, the components are still crap.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ok, you have the Monitor 10 Series 2, so the SL2000 tweeters in yours are the wrong ones. They should have been the SL2500. In which case means you want the RD0198-1 tweeters.
Yes, the components are still crap.
Ok good to know, will shop for the RD094-1 anyway otherwise I'll have to do the TL mod you said was an extensive change...will just swap the caps etc for better parts Jantzen + vishay. The RD0198-1 are 6 ohms I have seen...Post edited by Bleiz onmagictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
NMPost edited by F1nut onPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
STOP! You want the RD0198-1 tweeters. There is no need to do the TL mod to use them in your model. Do NOT get the RD0194-1.
Oki oki I promise to go for the RD098's if you insist ;-) Nice to hear there's just needing the ordinary component-swap then!
magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
I checked and actually the M10 and RTA11t schematics were the same except for the midwoofers (thus the "M10 / 11t" on the board). This is pre Series II. The Series II schematic is different and only has one resistor, for one thing. Different inductor and capacitor values too (except for the contour network cap)
Series II didn't come out until 1990.
RD0198-1 wouldn't work without the tl mod. If it were me I'd do the tl mod but you might not want to bother.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »I checked and actually the M10 and RTA11t schematics were the same except for the midwoofers (thus the "M10 / 11t" on the board). This is pre Series II. The Series II schematic is different and only has one resistor, for one thing. Different inductor and capacitor values too (except for the contour network cap)
Series II didn't come out until 1990.
RD0198-1 wouldn't work without the tl mod. If it were me I'd do the tl mod but you might not want to bother.
Now there is some confusion here...so mine are not the series II you mean, you having seen all photos I suppose? if so we're back to replacing tweeters w the other RD0194's then...magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
Mine are signed AK 11/4/88NM...magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
Gardenstater wrote: »I checked and actually the M10 and RTA11t schematics were the same except for the midwoofers (thus the "M10 / 11t" on the board). This is pre Series II. The Series II schematic is different and only has one resistor, for one thing. Different inductor and capacitor values too (except for the contour network cap)
Series II didn't come out until 1990.
RD0198-1 wouldn't work without the tl mod. If it were me I'd do the tl mod but you might not want to bother.
Now there is some confusion here...so mine are not the series II you mean, you having seen all photos I suppose?
Correct. Not series II. They are M10B. There was no 10C afaik.
I carefully checked the relevant schematics: RTA 11t, M10, and M10 Series II.
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Ya know, for once Boy George is right. Bleiz, my apologies for the confusion.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Those are 10B crossovers. And SL2000 tweeters in the pictures of the speakers. I don't think Series 2 crossovers had polyfuses in the tweeter circuit.
The Series 2 crossovers look more like
The earlier versions (10, 10A) looked more like
-
Ya know, for once Boy George is right. Bleiz, my apologies for the confusion.
No worries, will order tweeters + parts like tomorrow etc ;-)magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
I've read several posts @ various forums that some people swear by the Peerless K010DT tweeters once used vs SL2000's etc and if so how would Monacor DT-100 do as a substitute in anyone's opinion, or the Response 115DT26/27 sold from hifi-kit here in Sweden?
https://willys-hifi.com/products/monacor-dt-100-tweeter
https://hifikit.se/115dt26-27.html#horizontalTab2
magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
Peerless are great. I couldn't vouch for either of those copies because I haven't ever come across those, so it was interesting and thanks for the links!
You would need to replace your crossover with the M10 or M10A crossover and the midwoofers would need to be MW6500 in order to use the Peerless. You might even need a different passive radiator because that is tuned to suit the enclosure volume and the woofer.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »Peerless are great. I couldn't vouch for either of those copies because I haven't ever come across those, so it was interesting and thanks for the links!
You would need to replace your crossover with the M10 or M10A crossover and the midwoofers would need to be MW6500 in order to use the Peerless. You might even need a different passive radiator because that is tuned to suit the enclosure volume and the woofer.
I will not use/order the Peerless variants then, too much hazzle with changing x-overs +passive radiators like you say, guess anything will be better anyway by upgrading the caps and either stick to the SL2000's or go for RD0194-1's if the original ones are to tired.
The state of the speaker woofers + passives are mint as are the boxes, the guy I spoke to at hifikit Sweden told me Jantzen standard caps will do and even cheaper ones, otherwise it will be "like shooting a mosquito with a bazooka" as he put it...also to leave the original sand resitors in place no problem according to him.magictimbres.se
living room listening:
Thoréns TD318 MKII w. Sumiko Olympia
Arcam rPhono
Harmony Design pre 906
Cambridge Azur 651w
Infinity RS IIIb
control room listening:
Snell type JII
studio room listening:
Heco Mythos 500
Polk Monitor 10 B -
Everyone has their own opinion, but most audiophiles disagree with the guy at hifikit. Sandcast resistors are particularly reviled and most go with higher wattage (10 or 12 watt) non inductive wirewound types like Vishay Mills. Those sandcast ones are said to even have steel end caps which are of course ferromagnetic.
I don't have any personal experience with Jantzen caps. I went with Sonicaps which are pretty pricey these days, although there are much more expensive caps to be had than sonicaps. Many people here have saved money by using ClarityCap CSA and have been very happy with the results.
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »Peerless are great. I couldn't vouch for either of those copies because I haven't ever come across those, so it was interesting and thanks for the links!
You would need to replace your crossover with the M10 or M10A crossover and the midwoofers would need to be MW6500 in order to use the Peerless. You might even need a different passive radiator because that is tuned to suit the enclosure volume and the woofer.
I will not use/order the Peerless variants then, too much hazzle with changing x-overs +passive radiators like you say, guess anything will be better anyway by upgrading the caps and either stick to the SL2000's or go for RD0194-1's if the original ones are to tired.
The state of the speaker woofers + passives are mint as are the boxes, the guy I spoke to at hifikit Sweden told me Jantzen standard caps will do and even cheaper ones, otherwise it will be "like shooting a mosquito with a bazooka" as he put it...also to leave the original sand resitors in place no problem according to him.
That guy is clueless.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
