1.2TLs A Winter Project

24

Comments

  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    Better caps are an investment you won't regret and are a relatively inexpensive step up compared to other components in the chain.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    edited December 2021
    Out of curiosity I did some pricing. Prices do not include taxes and shipping.
    Erse: $47.07
    Clarity PX (getting the right values required some paralleling of caps to get the right values): $97.10
    Sonicaps: $496.26
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,436
    edited December 2021
    I've spent a ton of money on 3 different SDA's for caps and resistors. SDA 1signature, SDA 2a and SDA SRS 2.3tl.
    I'm not in the least bit disappointed that I spent the money I did. Every time it was much more than I really wanted or could afford. Each time they went on a CC. Not once did I think "ya know I should have saved money and got the lesser product". I know had I got the cheaper version or cut corners I would have had in the back of my mind "what if" do not get the what if's. Most everyone here has been in your shoes.
    Sonicaps are great because they have the EXACT values needed and they sound good, very good if you're asking.
    Clarity has alway been just close enough yet not exact. They make very good caps, step up to the CSA/SA caps shouldn't be but a few dollars more. Put them in the critical areas and use the PX in the non-critical areas.
    The Erse are not worth the difference for that little amount of money saved.
    Lets be realistic here. You want to be able to smile and enjoy the heck out of these when completed, and you certainly will with good caps and resistors.

    I've always in the back of my mind wondered what a full compliment of Clarity CMR's would have brought to the enjoyment over my Sonicaps.
    One day I'll find out.
  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Lets be realistic here. You want to be able to smile and enjoy the heck out of these when completed, and you certainly will with good caps and resistors.
    Truer words could not of been more said!

    Looking at the schematic what is considered critical areas?


    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,636
    I can say with some confidence that the cmr cap bypassed with a duelund jdm or cast is about as good as it gets unless you go full duelund cast.

    The price difference between those two are pretty substantial.

    The cmr for the price is one of the best on the market. The amount of transparency, detail, staging they are capable of is addicting.

    Path resistors are also pretty incredible
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,234
    I actually have two sets of crossovers for my 1.2TL’s, one with Sonicaps, and Duelund’s, and another set with Clarity MR’s, and Duelund’s.. All of the inductors have been upgraded as well on both sets.

    My advice echoes Ivan’s, just bite the bullet, and get quality parts, IMO go with Sonicaps, and Mills, and call it a day, if you get the bug later down the line you can look at upgrading the inductors..
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,234
    edited December 2021
    Here is how my list would go if in your shoes, (without knowing your budget or financial situation) so I will keep it real.

    Tweeters RDO-198’s (what is in there has to go)
    Replacement Driver, this just might be the toughest part for you, but you will..
    Spikes, yes I said it, a very budget friendly upgrade..
    Dynamat the baskets on the drivers, and passives, another budget friendly upgrade..
    Black Hole 5 to place on the back wall directly behind the drivers, only suggesting this while you have the cabinets open, but can wait till a later date..
    Sonicaps and Mills for the Crossovers.

    Sit back and enjoy..

    On a later date when, and if you get the bug, you can order upgraded inductors, especially the 16mh, and order Duelund resistors.

    Or better yet build a dreadnought, with an 800VA, or if you can find someone willing to sell you a 1000va as these are not sold right off the shelf..

    Just food for thought..

    Enjoy your upgrades nonetheless…
  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    edited December 2021
    Just ordered 8 tweeters. I can now put what 198s I had back in my modded monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs and soon to be modded SDA 2Bs.
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Here is how my list would go if in your shoes, (without knowing your budget or financial situation) so I will keep it real.

    Dynamat the baskets on the drivers, and passives, another budget friendly upgrade..
    Black Hole 5 to place on the back wall directly behind the drivers, only suggesting this while you have the cabinets open, but can wait till a later date..
    Sonicaps and Mills for the Crossovers.

    Will the sonic barrier from parts express work and if so which version the AB-4 or the MX-4?

    Would the black hole 5 be cut in strips behind the drivers like the polyfill or is squares behind the drivers?
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,636
    If you do not use bh5, no rez is the next best thing

    Sonic barrier 3/4 in its a good product but not as good as the other two
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    VR3 wrote: »
    If you do not use bh5, no rez is the next best thing

    Sonic barrier 3/4 in its a good product but not as good as the other two

    How does the bh5 or no rez get attached to the back of the drivers? Individual squares behind the driver or a single strip moving from top to bottom behind the drivers?
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,636
    edited December 2021
    No, it is Placed behind the drivers on the enclosure wall.. Left center, back center to left and right array, then center right
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,234
    You would cut the BH5 into 4” wide strips 24” long, and place on the back wall behind the drivers, you will still put the polyfill back in place..
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    edited December 2021
    bored184 wrote: »
    VR3 wrote: »
    If you do not use bh5, no rez is the next best thing

    Sonic barrier 3/4 in its a good product but not as good as the other two

    How does the bh5 or no rez get attached to the back of the drivers? Individual squares behind the driver or a single strip moving from top to bottom behind the drivers?

    A single strip 3 to 4 inches wide attached to the back wall directly behind the mid-drivers only. The strip should be as long as the distance from the top to bottom mid-drivers.

    Edit: Oops, already answered....lol
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,436
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    You would cut the BH5 into 4” wide strips 24” long, and place on the back wall behind the drivers, you will still put the polyfill back in place..

    In my 2.3tl's I also ran a 3" strip along the sides. Once again just the same length as the drivers.
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    If you have to, wait and save until you can afford at least the Sonicaps/Mills combo. Sonicraft will occasionally have a sale that will cut the price enough to be able to afford some better quality Binding Posts ;)

    Enjoy the process B)
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,500
    edited December 2021
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    You would cut the BH5 into 4” wide strips 24” long, and place on the back wall behind the drivers, you will still put the polyfill back in place..

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/148198/blackhole-5-damping-material-in-the-sda-srs-1-2tl/p1

    edit to add....Interesting, Ray put it behind the tweeters. Don't think it's the current line of thinking??? I didn't do it. Too many threads to cull through!
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Holler if you need a set of XS semi-rings. I made a few more this weekend out of stock plate I had so I can send Jaycee the rest of his.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,234
    JayCee wrote: »
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    You would cut the BH5 into 4” wide strips 24” long, and place on the back wall behind the drivers, you will still put the polyfill back in place..

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/148198/blackhole-5-damping-material-in-the-sda-srs-1-2tl/p1

    edit to add....Interesting, Ray put it behind the tweeters. Don't think it's the current line of thinking??? I didn't do it. Too many threads to cull through!

    I saw that as well, I didn’t do it either, don’t think it’s worth opening up my speakers for.. 😆

  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,500
    Yah, I've been in in mine several times this past year but had to think long and hard..."did I or didn't I?" before I posted above.
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    I used this Sonic Barrier and have been pleased with the results.
    https://www.parts-express.com/Sonic-Barrier-1-1-4-3-Layer-Damping-Material-w-PSA-18-x-24-260-535
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,436
    Black hole or sonic barrier behind the tweeter is a waste. Since the tweeter is sealed there's not much if any backwave like the open structure of the mid-woofer.
  • I seem to remember Darqueknight saying somewhere that he put those pieces behind the tweeters just to get more volume of BH5 into the speaker and that it wasn't because he thought tweeters had a backwave. In my mind, with 2 arrays of MW drivers close to that area on each side, there could very well be standing waves behind the tweeters too and the BH5 could help with that.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
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    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,436
    Standing waves in the SRS speakers especially are rectified by the dado cuts in the MDF.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Standing waves in the SRS speakers especially are rectified by the dado cuts in the MDF.

    In the 4th and 5th generation.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,537
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Black hole or sonic barrier behind the tweeter is a waste. Since the tweeter is sealed there's not much if any backwave like the open structure of the mid-woofer.

    BINGO!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Standing waves in the SRS speakers especially are rectified by the dado cuts in the MDF.

    I wondered why those dado cuts where in there.
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    xschop wrote: »
    Holler if you need a set of XS semi-rings. I made a few more this weekend out of stock plate I had so I can send Jaycee the rest of his.

    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Standing waves in the SRS speakers especially are rectified by the dado cuts in the MDF.

    v4sdwzviksvb.jpeg

    Photo of the dado cuts I meant to add with my original response.
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,234
    That is one clean looking speaker, I am used to seeing glue running down the corners..