1.2TLs A Winter Project
bored184
Posts: 324
Picked these up the other day. As you can see they need some work. The tweeters are pyle drivers and the driver is a JBL car speaker. This should be a fun winter project.
Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
Comments
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Hope you picked them up for a good price to offset the cost of some of the work..
Have fun, and enjoy!!! -
Amazing what that previous owner did there to avoid coughing up for the correct parts. Can't help but be curious about the tweeters. They are dome tweeters? OEM from "Pyle" or cobbled together with DIY bezels that don't quite fit the cutouts?George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Someone's been naughty to those.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Gardenstater wrote: »Amazing what that previous owner did there to avoid coughing up for the correct parts. Can't help but be curious about the tweeters. They are dome tweeters? OEM from "Pyle" or cobbled together with DIY bezels that don't quite fit the cutouts?
They are OEM from Pyle labeled "Pyle Drivers" on the magnets. They appear to be dome treaters but they have a plastic piece protecting the dome.Hope you picked them up for a good price to offset the cost of some of the work..
Have fun, and enjoy!!!
I think I did? Haha. I did the math ahead of time and it was a "ok" deal. I wouldn't consider it a "great" deal or a "steal" but I am happy.
The problem is I picked up some 2Bs not that long ago. I will be finishing that TL mod while working on these.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
How did you determine they are 1.2tl and not 1.2?
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How did you determine they are 1.2tl and not 1.2?
Pulled the crossover, they are marked BE-2000C. Pretty sure from the date these are early 1.2TLs. Prior to purchase I read and reread the SDA Handbook. Going into the deal I was pretty sure they were 1.2TLs because of the bolt pattern on the metal cover. If the bolt pattern was for the 1.2s I would been a bit more apprehensive because of Polks habit of using left over parts during a revision. Seeing as these had the "newest" bolt pattern I was pretty confident they were 1.2TLs.
Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Most of the 1.2's had the same plate as the 1.2TL's, you can also pull the passive and see if there is a added brace behind it along the back wall..
Not that it would matter, you're going to need tweeters, and you can mod them to 1.2TL's anyway, that is what I did to mine..
Also, if someone fried the original tweeters, I am surprised the crossover looks as clean as it does.. -
1. Remove one of the tweeters and note if each quick connect (positive and negative) is the same size. If they are, then they are 1.2's, not 1.2TL's. If the negative (white wire) connector is larger than the positive (colored wire), they are 1.2 TL's.
2. Plug the tweeter wire harness into the Molex socket on the circuit board and note if the 4 colored wires (positives) are on each negative position (+ and - is printed on the circuit board) and the white wires (negative wires) are on each positive position. If so, then they are wired (correctly) as 1.2 TL's. If not then they are 1.2's and if you're interested in converting them to 1.2 TL's, you will need to reverse the wires using a Molex removal tool. To complete the process of converting them to 1.2 TL's, you will need to install a larger quick connector on the white (-) wire at the tweeters to accommodate the RD0-198 tweeters.
I can't remember what capacitors, etc need to be changed on the board to finish the conversion to 1.2TL's....
SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
Most of the 1.2's had the same plate as the 1.2TL's, you can also pull the passive and see if there is a added brace behind it along the back wall..
Not that it would matter, you're going to need tweeters, and you can mod them to 1.2TL's anyway, that is what I did to mine..
Also, if someone fried the original tweeters, I am surprised the crossover looks as clean as it does..
Like this?
I am running a bit ahead of what I am posting progress wise. Trying to get my thoughts and notes organized before I post.
I had enough 198 tweeters between some other Polk's and a few stashed back that I was able to populate these and give them a test. These sound very veiled and lack in midrange, honestly the SDA 2As that I recently sold sounded better then these. I've pulled and measured all the drivers and they measure fine. While I have the cabinets apart I will be epoxying the drivers and sealing the cabinets.
Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
I had enough 198 tweeters between some other Polk's and a few stashed back that I was able to populate these and give them a test.
Sounds like you have 1.2TL's since you were able to connect the tweeters.
SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »
It wasn't quite that simple, haha. When they swapped out the tweeters they also installed wider disconnects on the positive side. I had to go back in their and install the right size. The connections were the standard type you would find at any auto parts store. If the original connectors were for the SL2000 tweeters they would of not needed replacing because they would of been able to mount on the Pyle Drivers.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
1.2 PL's.... Sorry couldn't resistDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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michaeljhsda2 wrote: »
It wasn't quite that simple, haha. When they swapped out the tweeters they also installed wider disconnects on the positive side. I had to go back in their and install the right size. The connections were the standard type you would find at any auto parts store. If the original connectors were for the SL2000 tweeters they would of not needed replacing because they would of been able to mount on the Pyle Drivers.
Gotcha. Were you able to confirm the reverse polarity at the circuit board?SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
Does the large sticker on the back of each Speaker Cabinet show positive on the left?SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
You look to have 1.2TL's That's a shame what was done to them, but look to be in good hands..
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Well look at the bright side, they didn't ruin the cabinets.
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michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Does the large sticker on the back of each Speaker Cabinet show positive on the left?
I've been using the schematics and wiring diagrams in the SDA Handbook.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Make sure the positive red binding post nuts are on the left, ignore the sticker on the back because it could be an old label leftover from the original SRS what shows red on the rightSDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Does the large sticker on the back of each Speaker Cabinet show positive on the left?
I've been using the schematics and wiring diagrams in the SDA Handbook.
That's not what he asked.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Make sure the positive red binding post nuts are on the left, ignore the sticker on the back because it could be an old label leftover from the original SRS what shows red on the right
I see, I was thinking internal not external. I am in the process of making new jumpers, the DIY ones that came with them were bad.michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Does the large sticker on the back of each Speaker Cabinet show positive on the left?
I've been using the schematics and wiring diagrams in the SDA Handbook.
That's not what he asked.
I see that now.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Looks good, yeah those stock jumpers are pretty bad.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
I know I'll probably get flamed for this but I'll probably do the recap with Erse capicitors first. Later on down the road I can slowly upgrade to better capicitors. December and January are expensive months for me.
I've got the right speaker sealed and all the drivers epoxied. Sometime next week I should be able to do the same on the left speaker.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Clarity cap px are great caps on a budget- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Clarity cap px are great caps on a budget
They are and I may eventually go that route. Erse is more of a stopgap, better then the original while letting me focus on other aspects of restoring and modding these.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Stop!
Your going to waste good money on those Erse that could benefit you better down the line on something else.
The stuff you have in it right now is as good as the Erse stuff. -
Stop!
Your going to waste good money on those Erse that could benefit you better down the line on something else.
The stuff you have in it right now is as good as the Erse stuff.
Really? I know Erse is frowned upon compared to Clarity or Sonicaps but I assumed they would atleast be better then what's in them now.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
I do know if I can lay my hands on set of gimpod boards I definitely would not use Erse in those.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Clarity cap px has to be really close in price to erse.... Very affordable and much better- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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IMHO of course, I feel it's a sideways move. Buy once cry once. Clarity makes a range of price points. I would have to run the cost comparison. Even if it's a hundred dollars more there you go one and done.
Once again just my opinion. -