Some RTA-11tl Love

Sonicaps, Mills Resistors, Imported Insulating Binding Posts. Those last revision Circuit Boards can be a PITA.

ivngeqa16m5b.jpg
jk9min3lgugy.jpg
9kcbyfwe152t.jpg
3sb9i3hkjanz.jpg
t4l3rwd2iloa.jpg
9xjaswj3zbtt.jpg
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

dhsspeakerservice.com/



«1

Comments

  • butterbean
    butterbean Posts: 332
    You are a Jedi master!
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    butterbean wrote: »
    You are a Jedi master!

    These aren't the crossovers you're looking for...
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Jazzhead
    Jazzhead Posts: 150
    Are those WBT posts? Nice double decker install.
    Polk Audio original RTA-12s w/ 12 inch Polk Stands; DHS Speaker Service upgraded crossovers w/ Sonicap/Mills; comb filtering mod (hyperdamped outer drivers/mirror imaged); tweeter diffraction mod; Cardas silver-rhodium binding posts; Neotech UPOCC internal wire; Sonic Barrier 3-layer; Dynamat Xtreme
    Ayre K-5xeMP preamplifier
    Cambridge Audio 840C CD player; Herbie's Audio Lab Super Black Hole CD Mat
    D-Sonic Custom Audio M3a-600M monoblock amplifiers
    NAD 4155 FM/AM tuner
    Silnote Audio Morpheus Reference II Series II balanced interconnects; Virtue Audio single-ended interconnects
    Furez 10/2 speaker cable & connectors, shotgunned
    VH Audio Flavor 4 power cables w/Furutech connectors (G)
    Herbie's Audio Lab system isolation: Tenderfeet, Big Fat Dots, Grungebuster Dots, Little Fat Gliders
    Dedicated 20A/10 AWG circuit; Furutech GTX-D (G) outlet; Furutech eTP80; Shunyata Research Venom Defender; Synergistic Research Orange fuses
  • butterbean
    butterbean Posts: 332
    Yeah I know, I was just commenting on the quality of your work! I am still planning on updating my crossovers just trying to figure out a way to get the wife on board. Yeah I know, good luck with that!
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    edited July 2020
    butterbean wrote: »
    Yeah I know, I was just commenting on the quality of your work! I am still planning on updating my crossovers just trying to figure out a way to get the wife on board. Yeah I know, good luck with that!

    Thanks. Guess you're not a Star Wars fan.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    Jazzhead wrote: »
    Are those WBT posts? Nice double decker install.

    Thanks. Those are the imported ones I keep in stock.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • msg
    msg Posts: 6,544
    Wow, that's quite an upgrade.
    I like those RTA-11 series speakers, too.
    I disabled signatures.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    msg wrote: »
    Wow, that's quite an upgrade.
    I like those RTA-11 series speakers, too.

    Thanks Scott
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,324
    Nice idea lifting the boards. Work looks great!
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    CH46E wrote: »
    Nice idea lifting the boards. Work looks great!

    Thank you.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • butterbean
    butterbean Posts: 332
    butterbean wrote: »
    You are a Jedi master!

    These aren't the crossovers you're looking for...

    Jeez I’m so dense! I just got the reference, I’m such a dork
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Hack

    :p

    Numpty

    :)
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • gramey
    gramey Posts: 11
    OK,

    The crossovers for my 11TL's (in David's photos, first post above) have arrived, and a day ahead of schedule.

    First let me say, David did a superb job with the packaging. Take it from a guy who worked for UPS for almost thirty years- Top Notch job David. It is appreciated because I have seen it all when it comes to packaging. He even returned my old components. I was not (ha!) expecting that. Not sure what I'll do with them.... but thanks.

    Secondly... I will say it... these babies are Sexy. There.. I said it.. SEXY! (said it again).

    Thirdly, yes, they will still 'fit'. Thus, I do not have to install them thru the front of the speaker. Again, well done David and Thank You, sir. Sorry I had the late version of the board... really didn't know about that. It won't happen again.

    And now... the game is officially afoot! Let the RTA 11TL refurb begin...hopefully I can post the following here since the thread title seems to fit. If not, my apologies.


    Skinning the Polks


    The wife and I spent about 3.5 hours removing Polk's "furniture grade finish" (aka woodgrain vinyl) from the speaker boxes. It was an interesting endeavor...and please note I did not refer, in any way, to what we removed... as being 'veneer'. ha!

    I read (I think) just about every and any post still available in this forum on this subject matter..and then I/we just kind of "winged it". Here are some "tips" I'd like to offer when it comes to removing the vinyl from your 11TL's (or similar). YMMV...*


    Tools I used... 25 year old heat gun, tweezers, work gloves, scrap plywood, Exacto knife.


    Tips/suggestions

    -After removing all the components, grill pins, spikes, threaded inserts, etc from your speaker boxes, I would suggest you place your speaker on a soft surface like an old towel. Its not to prevent damage to the vinyl of course, but rather the p-board underneath. Any dings you add now are just more repairs you'll have to do before veneering, painting, whatever (please don't paint your Polks). I suggest you start your vinyl removal adventure with the bottom of a speaker. That way, if you happen to #@## something up, in all likelihood it will never show. Plus, the speaker bottoms are small in terms of surface area, so you can build up your 'confidence'. The photo below represents my progress after my first 15 minutes of work... at which point I remember thinking "I should be done by Halloween at this rate, sheeesh".

    ax0iqmhelggh.jpg


    -Set up your work area at a comfortable height. You will be jerking on these for awhile, and even if you manage to get your spouse to help, as I did, you will feel better the next day if you're not straining as you work. This hasn't gone off the rails, has it? Of course it hasn't.

    -I began this adventure, solo, and wearing a pair of work gloves that had rubber grips on the fingers. These really helped in gripping the vinyl, although ultimately I ended up working bare-handed. Yes, the vinyl will be *hot*. No, even bare-handed I managed not to burn myself. I did however, end up with identical blisters(not burns) on each index finger... go figure. Anyway...

    -Trying to remove the vinyl in one large piece (see again, the above photo) didn't work for me. Sensing I needed to change tactics, I then began a rather loud tirade of expletives which worked exactly as desired. I was then quickly joined by my wife who had feared I had seriously hurt myself, or worse. I explained that I had been "working forever and only got this much done, honey" (again, see the photo above). Pitying me, and my manliness, she offered to pitch in and frankly, the entire project then switched gears.

    (continued)
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    Keep us posted Glenn. Can't wait to see the veneer work.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • gramey
    gramey Posts: 11
    Thanks David.

    Ah yes, the "veneer work".. also known as "Phase 2 of Glenn's
    Learning Curve" on this project.

    File under : Mods, Tweaks, and other Misadventures

    :smile:

    First batch of veneer should arrive tomorrow.


    -glenn


  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,068
    That is some good love!
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • gramey
    gramey Posts: 11
    edited August 2020
    OK,,

    The veneer for my 11TL's did arrive..uh.. a couple of weeks ago. I decided, for nostalgic reasons I guess, that I wanted a 'look' from the veneer for this project that I would have appreciated both back in '92 when I bought these Polks, as well as going forward in time from now. As such, I finally went with an 'Australian Walnut'(not actually a member of the Walnut family) that really caught my eye.. and(!)... it came in pieces that were large enough to do the side of an 11TL box(14"x38") without needing to be pieced-this was pretty-much a prerequisite for me! It's from a veneer supplier here in MD and arrived well packed and spent a few days relaxing(it was shipped rolled up) and acclimating to our environ here. I need 4 sheets(if I don't drop the ball) of the veneer to do the speakers, so I ordered 5 so as to have 1 sheet to 'play' with first because.... I've never done veneer before. Here's what I purchased....each sheet is 18"x62" and will do a speaker side, and still have enough to do the adjoining top/bottom. It's even prettier in person... it actually looks like a piece of sawn lumber to me, instead of a composite of side-by-side pieces joined together like some veneer sheets, and it has a wonderful curl 'going on' throughout the piece. It has no backing paper nor adhesive, it is 'raw' and 1/45" thick.
    blz7i48lbo41.png

    Not having a bagging setup, and not wanting to mess with contact cement if avoidable, I have chosen to try a 'hot press' application method for this raw veneer. Simply cut(with a veneer saw-I'm still getting the hang of it) a section of the veneer to fit the side of the object you're working on with about a 1/2" overhang all around and then with a glue roller, roll on a layer of the adhesive(HeatLock) on both the backside of the veneer and your target surface. Wait 30 mins for glue to feel dry to the touch, then position your piece of veneer onto the surface(it won't bond at this point so you can move it around until you have it exactly where you want it-try that with contact cement!), then cover with an old t-shirt and iron away-working from the center out of course. Sounds simple enough...and it mostly was.

    Here's the item I chose from around the house to 'practice' on, before starting an actual speaker. Its an el-cheapo 'bin' of my wife's, she uses them to hold her prints at art shows. It is some type of wood from SE Asia(my guess), finger-jointed in the corners. I would have preferred MDF or p-board for stability, but we didnt have any. Oh well. For size perspective, the bin is just wide enough to hold a record album. At the point in time that I took this photo, I had already started applying the veneer..my apologies for being out of chronological order. For this project, I ran the grain in the veneer in the same direction as the grain of the box. For the speakers, I will rotate the veneer 90 degrees of course, like it is the photo above.

    mfo55raigesu.jpg

    The adhesive dries to a shiny pinkish color. It's very easy to tell where you have applied it, in case you miss a spot. The veneer does tend to want to curl a bit as the glue dries, thus the tape to hold the edges until it sets. The tape also prevents getting any glue on the 'good side' which is facing down. Blue tape did end up working better than the frog tape shown here. I started with the frog tape, but my second piece
    of veneer popped loose from the tape while I was upstairs and wound itself up to the size of a paper towel tube-sticky side out. Oops! It was blue tape only, after that.
    jm2hmatsfdws.jpg

    Anyway, once I ironed a side down-which took less than 2 minutes on this small bin (including doing a visual check of all the edges to make sure they were down good) I let the reactivated adhesive fully set(about 2-3 hours) and then,, trimmed any veneer overhang with my favorite(!) new tool...a trim router with a down-cut spiral bit with guide bearing. It weighs in at only 4 pounds and was a very easy to control compared to the 13 pound Elu router I was going to use. It worked very well, and the bearing did not mar the veneer on the adjoining surface. I tried placing a layer of frog tape on the surface the bearing would ride on- and sure enough- this made the cut a little proud of the edge. I then took a t-bar sander and finished the edge by hand. I just felt batter doing it this way. And this Australian (non-)Walnut really does smell like our Black Walnut when its worked. I really enjoy that smell.
    hztspcm3n66v.jpg

    When I started veneering this bin, I didn't think the process thru and started cutting off pieces at one end of the veneer sheet, instead of in the center. Lesson learned. As such, I was only able to attempt to match the grain at one end of the bin, instead of both ends...which is a shame because I definitely could still use the practice! Anyway, here's the 'good' end...(it could have been better, if i had minimized the overhang/waste when I cut the veneer-another lesson learned)
    rgknk8vbdte0.jpg

    and the not-so-matched corner...("not-so-matched" = not at all, ha! but it is a crisp,clean corner)
    6pn0l886ok8k.jpg

    I think both are acceptable, but I'll be trying for matched corners when possible on the speaker boxes-which I will be starting in earnest this weekend for sure. They are sanded and ready to be veneered.

    The practice bin above will become my test subject for a few different finishes in a couple of weeks.I want a low-luster(!) finish on these, I'm not a "high-gloss" guy and these will be parked in the living room and never see duty as drink holders, end tables, or the like. If anybody has any tips or advice for possible finishes for this veneer, I'd be glad to listen. I've gotten some advice from David(#westmassguy) on what finishes he has used on veneers in the past, and I'm certainly open to more advice. I don't have a spray booth- but I am pretty good with rattle cans if that is an option. I do know that the glue manufacturer claims that the veneer adhesive does form a 'hard line' once fully cured so that is supposed to broaden my options, ie, I supposedly don't have to worry about the finish I choose damaging the adhesive and allowing the veneer to creep. I have done exactly one French Polish finish in my life, on my first wife's hope chest 35 years ago, and it turned out quite nicely, but I would rather not go that route this time. lol. This veneer is rather porous, but filling those pores is not a priority either. OK, it's time for hockey...

    Thanks for looking.


    -glenn








    Post edited by gramey on
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,324
    Wow, looks freaking great!
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    Looks great Glenn. Maybe @F1nut Jesse can offer some professional advice on the finish
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • gramey
    gramey Posts: 11
    edited August 2020
    uh, OK, I attempted to edit a typo, and my entire post went bye-bye. LOL. I have a copy of it that I will attempt to post below....
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    gramey wrote: »
    uh, OK, I attempted to edit a typo, and my entire post went bye-bye. LOL.

    The glory that is Vanilla
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • gramey
    gramey Posts: 11
    OK,,
    Here's a copy of my post from above(that I disappeared somehow)that I saved a little before actually posting it.............
    sorry about the confusion...

    The veneer for my 11TL's did arrive..uh.. a couple of weeks ago. I decided, for nostalgic reasons I guess, that I wanted a 'look' from the veneer that I would have appreciated back in '92, as well as going forward from now. As such, I went with an 'Australian Walnut'(not actually a member of the walnut family) that really caught my eye.. and(!)... it came in pieces that were large enough to do the side of an 11TL box(14"x38") without needing to be pieced-this was pretty-much a prerequisite!! It's from a veneer supplier here in MD and arrived well packed and spent a few days relaxing(it was shipped rolled up) and acclimating to our environ here. I need 4 sheets(if I don't drop the ball) of the veneer to do the speakers, so I ordered 5 so as to have 1 sheet to 'play' with first because.... I've never done veneer before. Here's what I purchased....each sheet is 18"x62" and will do a speaker side, and still have enough to do the adjoining top/bottom. Its even prettier in person... it actually looks like a piece of sawn lumber to me, instead of a composite of side-by-side pieces like some veneers, and has a wonderful curl 'going on' through out the piece. It has no backing paper nor adhesive, it is 'raw' and 1/45" thick.
    blz7i48lbo41.png

    Not having a bagging setup, and not wanting to mess with contact cement if avoidable, I have chosen to try a 'hot press' application method for this raw veneer. Simply cut(with a veneer saw-still getting the hang of it!) a section of the veneer to fit the side you're working on(with a little(1/2") overhang all around) and then roll on a layer of the adhesive(HeatLock) on both the backside of the veneer and your target surface. Wait 30 mins for glue to feel dry to the touch, then position veneer onto the surface(it won't bond at this point so you can move it around until you have it exactly where you want it-try that with contact cement!), then cover with an old t-shirt and iron away to reactivate the adhesive-working from the center out of course. Sounds simple enough...and mostly it was.

    Here's what I chose from around the house to 'practice' on, before starting an actual speaker. Its an el-cheapo 'bin' of my wife's, she uses them hold her prints at art shows. It is some type of wood from SE Asia(my guess), finger-jointed in the corners. I would have preferred MDF or p-board for stability, but we didnt have any. Oh well. For size perspective, it's just wide enough to hold a record album. At this point in time, I had already started applying the veneer..my apologies for being out of chronological order.

    mfo55raigesu.jpg

    The adhesive dries to a shiny pinkish color. It's very easy to tell where you have applied it, in case you miss a spot. The veneer does tend to want to curl a bit as the glue dries, thus the tape to hold the edges until it sets. Blue tape did end up working better than the frog tape shown here. I started with the frog tape, but my second piece
    popped loose from the tape while I was upstairs and wound itself up to the size of a paper towel tube. oops! It was blue tape after that.
    jm2hmatsfdws.jpg

    Anyway, once I ironed a side down-which took less than 2 minutes on this small bin (including do a visual check of all the edges to make sure it was down good) I let the reactivated adhesive fully set(about 2-3 hours) and then,, trimmed the veneer overhang with my favorite(!) new tool...a trim router and a down-cut spiral bit with guide bearing. It weighs in at only 4 pounds and was a very easy to control compared to the 13 pound Elu router I was going to use. It worked very well, and the bearing did not mar the veneer on the adjoining surface. I tried placing a layer of frog tape on the surface the bearing would ride on- and sure enough- this made the cut a little proud of the edge. I then took a t-bar sander and finished the edge by hand. I just felt batter doing it this way. And this Australian (non-)Walnut really does smell like our Black Walnut when its worked. I really enjoy that.
    hztspcm3n66v.jpg

    When I started veneering this bin, I didnt think the process thru and started cutting off pieces at one end of the veneer sheet, instead of in the center. Lesson learned. As such, I was only able to attempt to match the grain at one end of the bin, instead of both ends...which is a shame because I definitely could still use the practice! Anyway, here's the 'good' end...(which would look better if I had left less overhang when I cut the veneer-another lesson learned).
    rgknk8vbdte0.jpg

    and the not-so-matched corner...
    6pn0l886ok8k.jpg

    I think both are acceptable, but I'll be trying for matched corners when possible on the speaker boxes-which I will be starting in earnest this weekend for sure. They are sanded and ready to be veneered.

    The practice bin above will become my test subject for a few different finishes in a couple of weeks.I want a low-luster(!) finish on these, I'm not a "high-gloss" guy and these will be parked in the living room and never see duty as drink holders, end tables, or the like. If anybody has any tips or advice for possible finishes for this veneer, I'd be glad to listen. Ive gotten some advice from David(#westmassguy) on what finishes he has used on veneers in the past, and I'm certainly open to more advice. I dont have a spray booth- but I am pretty good with rattle cans if that is an option. I do know that the glue manufacturer claims that the veneer adhesive does form a 'hard line' once fully cured so that is supposed to broaden my optionsI dont have to worry about the finish damaging the adhesive and allowing the veneer to creep. I have done exactly one french Polish finish in my life, on my first wife's hope chest 35 years ago, and it turned out quite nicely, but I would rather not go that route this time. lol. This veneer is rather porous, but filling those pores is not a priority either.

    Thanks for looking.


    -glenn
  • butterbean
    butterbean Posts: 332
    Wow you do beautiful work brother!
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 2,020
    butterbean wrote: »
    Wow you do beautiful work brother!

    2nd that. Wish I could find someone local to do similar. That grain is unique.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,047
    Looks good 👍
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 4,877
    Looking great.
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,737
    Very nice.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/