Infinity RSII....??? Any one had ears on them?

CH46E

I used the Jantzen Cross Caps in my 12B and they seem to do pretty darn good. So I have high hopes the EMITs will like these caps. I wish they had this capnjn a 250v instead of 800v.

audioluvr

I'm sure those will work well. The only thing I don't like about the high volt caps is the leads are thick and often require drilling out the circuit boards to accommodate. If you find the Jantzen's a little too bright for the emits you could try the Sonicap or Mundorf's as they tend to be a little warmer IMHO. Swapping out shouldn't be much of a problem as the 12uF is common in a lot of components so you shouldn't have any problems with resale.

pitdogg2

Leads shouldn't matter for him as IIRC it is all point to point.

CH46E

So these Jantzen Superior Z Caps are 12 uf with 2% tolerance. I had the AC repair guy here today and I watched him use his Fluke. I asked if it tested caps and it did. I asked him to test the two Jantzen caps. They were 12.34 and 12.37. Now if my math is correct, they should be no more than 12.24. As expensive as they were should I contact Parts Connexion? I mean, they should be just fine right? These are for the EMIT tweeters.

Or should I hold the manufacturer responsible for what they are advertising vs what they are selling????

Thanks for any advice!

pitdogg2

Do we know if the meter was off a bit?

CH46E

No... and I was thinking there could be a variation with the equipment used to test with. A couple guys on AK pretty much asked the same thing you just did.


These should be going in tomorrow with all the other caps.
Thanks.

CH46E

pitdogg2

Even in tube testing, between testers there can be variations between the same brand of machines that kilter a little one way or the other. They're much tighter than OEM by far.

Schurkey

What frequency was the test signal used to test the caps?

Capacitance varies with frequency. I don't know what the "standard" frequency is, or even if it varies with the value of the capacitor being tested. My meter has two choices for test frequency, but I don't remember what they are.

CH46E

Oh... I have no idea what frequency may have been used. I know very little about testing caps.

Gardenstater

At least they are super close to each other and I second the other comments about frequency. If you knew the Fluke's testing frequency you could contact Jantzen and ask them what frequency or frequencies they use to evaluate their capacitors and compare.

Having said all that, I'm sure if you contact Parts Connexion they will just send another pair out to you no questions asked (ha! just a little morning levity).

dromunds

Why not test them again elsewhere if you are worried about it?

CH46E

I'm just about to install them. Not time to go test somewhere else. Besides, I guess they are close enough. And so close together is great. I'm sure I'm still beating the factory caps +- tolerances anyways.

Thanks for the advice guys.

dromunds

Very curious to know how they sound after break-in. Nice caps.

CH46E

Is it ok to piggy back the caps like in this photo? For my electrolytic caps in the bass section I have to add 3 together.

Or should I keep all the leads as close to the same length as possible then solder them at the end points? I'm concerned that the thin lead on one cap may not be suitable. I have to join 2 680 uf caps and a 220 uf together.

CH46E

A or B or none of the below?

A


B

Gardenstater

I like B because it should let you get a good tight wrap first and then you can use a minimal amt of solder. I would say that it might be good to put a piece of foam tape between the capacitors to minimize any chance of microphonics.

PS: I had said A or C because I was including the post before the last one as A. Sorry

gp4jesus

Those big value, 680uf & 220uf, caps: Make, model, $, & from where? Thnx

CH46E

Part Conexxion, Mundorf E-Caps 63 volt. Was not very expensive at all.

CH46E

$9.62 for the 680 uf caps.

Schurkey

1. When it was me, and I had to parallel multiple caps, I went to NAPA (or any other auto-parts or electronics-supply store) and bought tinned copper crimp rings in a blister pack hanging on the electrical terminals rack.

This isn't the product I used, but it's an adequate example.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HP185C1?tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

Slide the leads for the caps through the ring, crimp, THEN solder. Photo doesn't show this well, but it is visible. Two caps, crimped and soldered to a short copper-wire extension so I have enough lead length to reach the circuit board.


2. I was taught (here, on the Polk Forums) that when paralleling caps, to use equivalent or near-equivalent values to achieve the total capacitance. Supposedly, this "sounds better" than paralleling caps of widely-different values. Thus the photo above is two, 91uF caps to get as close as possible to the 185 specified in the schematic.

pitdogg2

Yes I agree that when you parallel they should be as close to the same as possible. The smaller caps will tend to act like a bypass caps if they are much smaller in value than the others.

CH46E

Thanks @pitdogg2 and @Schurkey, I'll keep that in mind for the future. Other than the 1,600 uf caps for the bass section most of my caps are close to each other as far as the 600 and 125 caps go.


I could use some help here. I really dont want to go budget build on this midrange section as ther are three mids and all are crossed over separately. I'm also very much wanting to get the best vocals I can from these speakers. I posed this question over on AK in the dedicated Infinity thread, but still very much respect opinions here. See below.

I'm having a hard time finding a high quality affordable 150 uf cap. I'm looking at filling the (4) 12.5 caps and (2) 6.8 caps with Jantzen Silver caps. They have a 6.8 uf cap. But no 12.5. So I'll gave to stack a 10 and a 2.47 (IIRC) cap for the 12.5.

I wanted to go higher end for the mid range section. Problem is finding a quality 150 uf film cap in my budget. I'm looking to spend about $70.00 each for a pair. Any suggestions?

It's the first cap on the mid range circuit so I feel like if I go with a lower quality cap it will negate any improvements I might gain from putting premium caps later in the circuit.

audioluvr

You could try these:

https://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-82uf-400v-crosscap-capacitor--027-954
https://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-68uf-400v-crosscap-capacitor--027-952

Or these:

https://www.parts-express.com/solen-82uf-400v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-612
https://www.parts-express.com/solen-68uf-400v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-608

Edit:
http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/mundorf-mcap-evo-150uf-250vdc-p-4147

pitdogg2

You do not want to parallel a 10 and 2.47 that is exactly the scenario I was referring to as it will act more like a bypass cap. Either 13uf or 12uf you'll be much better off and still closer than oem that more than likely was +/- 10 % or more.

CH46E

pitdogg2 wrote: »

You do not want to parallel a 10 and 2.47 that is exactly the scenario I was referring to as it will act more like a bypass cap. Either 13uf or 12uf you'll be much better off and still closer than oem that more than likely was +/- 10 % or more.

Ok I gotcha now. That opens a few more options.

Schurkey

CH46E wrote: »

I'm having a hard time finding a high quality affordable 150 uf cap.

www.erseaudio.com

MPX25-03-150.0 $28.70 each plus shipping.

Specifications
Capacitance 150 µF
Voltage Rating 250 VDC
Tolerance 3.0%
Dissipation Factor .001
Outside Diameter 56 mm
Length 72 mm
Wire Diameter 1.6 mm
Lead Length 58 mm
RoHS Compliant Yes RoHS Compliant
Weight: .39 lb

gp4jesus

Before this thread changes topics from XO caps

How do any of the above caps stack up next to Clarity’s PX line.

3-4 years ago was in the market for “neutral” sounding DC blocking tweeter caps for bi-amped and tri-amped speakers. Preferred a value that was “straight-wire“ @ 2Khz or lower frequency.

I’ve since made my purchases but would consider upgrades for my LR or LCR tweeters. Thnx for reading this far...

Watching this build in wide-eyed wonder. Tony

CH46E

I've allowed the system to play for 24 hours for the caps to set in a little. These Jantzen Superior Z Caps are a match made in heaven for the EMIT tweeters. I'm going to leave them on for another 36 hours straight.

I also found one of the midrange drivers was out of phase while working on the crossovers. I created a little map of what wires are positive and what are negative. I think this out of phase mid may have contributing to the sensation some vocals would hit me from my right side as if the right rear surround speaker was playing.

Imaging is leaps and bounds better and I no longer fund the EMIT to sparkly or smeared. These things are super crisp, detailed and beautiful sounding now.

I cant wait to get the mid range section done. I think I'm going to go with a Mundorf Aluminum in oil for the 150uf then Jantzen Superior Zs for the 6.8 and 12.5 caps. That will wrap these up for caps. Going to get a couple resistors to replace the oem sand cast resistors and the pots have to go also. I hate them. (The pots that's is)

After that is done I'll start on sealing up the cabinets for the woofers.

Gardenstater

Very encouraging and great job so far!