Best jumper upgrades for LSiMs?
Landmonster
Posts: 79
Hi guys.
Just wondering what the best upgrade choices would be to upgrade the jumpers on the stock LSiMs?
Are there are any affordable options that would produce a noticeable improvement in sound quality?
Just wondering what the best upgrade choices would be to upgrade the jumpers on the stock LSiMs?
Are there are any affordable options that would produce a noticeable improvement in sound quality?
Comments
-
use the same cables as your speaker cables.Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
Speaker Cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
Interconnects: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
Digital cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2 bnc, Tellurium Q aes, Silnote Audio Poseidon Signature 2 bnc
Puritan PSM156 -
MIT Shotgun jumpers.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Here are two (8 inch or 16 inch) reasonable options from Zu Audio that usually sell for about $30-40 at auction end. I put them on two different Paradigm sets. One set was Studio 60; one set Monitor 7. Better than the straps. They are well made.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zu-Audio-IBIS-8in-20cm-Hi-Fi-Speaker-Jumper-Sets-Junk-Those-Brass-Straps/133131595663?hash=item1eff42ef8f:g:0NoAAOSwvt1WQ8EC
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zu-Audio-IBIS-16in-40cm-Hi-Fi-Speaker-Jumper-Sets-Junk-Those-Brass-Straps/133124661766?hash=item1efed92206:g:0NoAAOSwvt1WQ8EC"Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"Anger is just anger. It isn’t good. It isn’t bad. It just is. What you do with it is what matters.
You can use it to build or to destroy. You just have to make the choice. Jim Butcher
Harry / Marietta GA -
I have a set of Zu jumpers I can let go of. I also bought them from their eBay auction for 35.00 plus shipping. Only reason i removed them was i went to all DH labs 14ga. silver clad OCC copper internally so i bought a 12ga set of the same for my binding post.
-
The best connection by far, is to simply Eliminate the dual binding post option, and combine the internal crossover connections to ONE specific pair of posts and use ONLY that post.
Eliminates any connection issues, and is not only the best way to do it for lack of connection issues, but is free. -
Not to dispute the assertion that it's the best way, but I would hardly call it free, especially if one has to de-solder the connections and reconnect them to one set of posts. It also involves taking the binding post plates out, and there may be lots of folks who are not comfortable taking a screwdriver to their speakers.
I eliminated the jumper issue by just buying a set of bi-wire speaker cables. Done.
Yes, I know I wasted my money doing that, good thing I am not poor and destitute yet...So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/ -
I have a set of Zu jumpers I can let go of. I also bought them from their eBay auction for 35.00 plus shipping. Only reason i removed them was i went to all DH labs 14ga. silver clad OCC copper internally so i bought a 12ga set of the same for my binding post.
For the record these have been sold. -
Bi-wire?Up
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500 -
Inspector 24 wrote: »Bi-wire?
Banana plugs into the amp (1 red & 1 black), spade terminals at the speaker end (2 red & 2 black). If that's not the correct terminology, I'm all for additional education.
So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/ -
Not to dispute the assertion that it's the best way, but I would hardly call it free, especially if one has to de-solder the connections and reconnect them to one set of posts. It also involves taking the binding post plates out, and there may be lots of folks who are not comfortable taking a screwdriver to their speakers.
I eliminated the jumper issue by just buying a set of bi-wire speaker cables. Done.
Yes, I know I wasted my money doing that, good thing I am not poor and destitute yet...
I agree! Not totally free (my way) and your way may be better at a slight cost!
You have half the resistance (with double wires) and do not have to mess around with anything technical. -
I picked up some Zu Audio jumpers a while back for my LSi15's. They seem very well made and very robust. I can't swear that they made a lot of difference in sound but it couldn't hurt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zu-Audio-IBIS-16in-40cm-Hi-Fi-Speaker-Jumper-Sets-Junk-Those-Brass-Straps/113924615641?hash=item1a866fadd9:g:0NoAAOSwvt1WQ8EC
Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601