Will my system work?
Comments
-
Is there some reason why you are opposed to hooking them up to the Yamaha AVR first, before purchasing a 7 channel amplifier?
I haven’t ordered the amp. I’m just trying to get an idea so I will know if I’m not happy.
Hoping to get everything up and running with the speakers, Yamaha and subs when it all gets here. No, I listened to everyone who said to hook up first to AVR. I’m just getting excited and know, if needed, what I want.
Thanks for your and everyone’s advice and concern. I feel like a kid at Christmas and trying to get my list right. I can’t wait to get everything together!
Rob
Sorry Clipdat, I meant to quote you also. -
Is there some reason why you are opposed to hooking them up to the Yamaha AVR first, before purchasing a 7 channel amplifier?
I haven’t ordered the amp. I’m just trying to get an idea so I will know if I’m not happy.
Hoping to get everything up and running with the speakers, Yamaha and subs when it all gets here. No, I listened to everyone who said to hook up first to AVR. I’m just getting excited and know, if needed, what I want.
Thanks for your and everyone’s advice and concern. I feel like a kid at Christmas and trying to get my list right. I can’t wait to get everything together!
Rob
Sorry Clipdat, I meant to quote you also.
Looks like we snared another one!
-
Yep^
thats awesome man - pics in the "showcase your setups" thread when its all in house! -
You’re on the right path. In fact, it’s nice to see someone new asking questions and actually giving serious thought to the answers and advice given. Too many times we see someone doing a “cannonball into the pool”, it’s cool when someone uses the steps now and then!
So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/ -
You’re on the right path. In fact, it’s nice to see someone new asking questions and actually giving serious thought to the answers and advice given. Too many times we see someone doing a “cannonball into the pool”, it’s cool when someone uses the steps now and then!
I prefer a half pike.....makes a much bigger splash!Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
Ok everyone, I have the speakers, Polk Audio( LSiM 707’s- 2, LSiM 6 center-1, LSiM 703’s-2 rears, and LSiM’s 702-2 surround rears, and on the way, 2 SVS SB 4000’s)
Now, I’m trying to decide between the Outlaw 7700 ( been around for a good while, ( 200watts per 7 channels), or Outlaw 7220 ( 220 watts per 7 channels) new product. The write up says that the 7220 has a built in breaker of 20 amps and reccommends a 20 amp breaker in house. It appears it’s not required but, who knows? I don’t see what the amperage requirement for 7700 is but I don’t know and need advice. I like everything about the 7220 but it is new and some have said it has a low hum in certain owners homes. It appears that the 7700 is tried and true but I’m concerned. Will 20 watts make that much difference. I don’t want to screw up over $300.00. It’s not a lot in the whole realm of things.
Rob
If they are recommending the 7220 have its own dedicated 20 amp line you should heed that advice. Will it work on a 15 amp line? Yes, but you'll never get out of it what it is capable of.
I see another has fallen for the, "You need 200 wpc" BS. It's not about watts, it's about amperes (current). Obviously, the 7220 has a higher amperes rating otherwise they wouldn't recommend a 20 amp line.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You’re on the right path. In fact, it’s nice to see someone new asking questions and actually giving serious thought to the answers and advice given. Too many times we see someone doing a “cannonball into the pool”, it’s cool when someone uses the steps now and then!
Thank you for saying that. I’ve learned as I have gotten older that I don’t know 1/4 of what I thought I knew when I was younger. I’ve learned to listen to educated people and try to absorb as much knowledge as my old brain can take.
Thanks to all of you for your knowledge and patience. -
Ok everyone, I have the speakers, Polk Audio( LSiM 707’s- 2, LSiM 6 center-1, LSiM 703’s-2 rears, and LSiM’s 702-2 surround rears, and on the way, 2 SVS SB 4000’s)
Now, I’m trying to decide between the Outlaw 7700 ( been around for a good while, ( 200watts per 7 channels), or Outlaw 7220 ( 220 watts per 7 channels) new product. The write up says that the 7220 has a built in breaker of 20 amps and reccommends a 20 amp breaker in house. It appears it’s not required but, who knows? I don’t see what the amperage requirement for 7700 is but I don’t know and need advice. I like everything about the 7220 but it is new and some have said it has a low hum in certain owners homes. It appears that the 7700 is tried and true but I’m concerned. Will 20 watts make that much difference. I don’t want to screw up over $300.00. It’s not a lot in the whole realm of things.
Rob
If they are recommending the 7220 have its own dedicated 20 amp line you should heed that advice. Will it work on a 15 amp line? Yes, but you'll never get out of it what it is capable of.
I see another has fallen for the, "You need 200 wpc" BS. It's not about watts, it's about amperes (current). Obviously, the 7220 has a higher amperes rating otherwise they wouldn't recommend a 20 amp line.
Well I just figured that all of my outlets were 15 amps but after looking at one of my breaker boxes (I have two), I have 15 and 20’s along with other more powerful ones, the other is in the garage and it’s late so I’ll have a look soon.
If it does have 15 amps, my decision is made, if I decide to go with an amp.
Please keep me straight as I need all the advice I can get.
Thanks F1nut!
-
Yes, if you can have a 20A or two run to your HT. I asked and it was too much $$$ Two different quotes for $1500 and one guy wanted to gut my house and charge me $10k. I have not tripped the 15A yet . Yes I do turn it up.
Like others said give it a shot with the AVR before you get an amp. When I added my first amp it was a Emotiva BasX-A300 a small 150wX2 amp, my speakers said hello right from the start. Now I have a bigger Emotiva, dynamics imaging and overall sound quality is just fantastic.
Here is another nice amp if you want/need one https://www.crutchfield.com/p_973MCA325/Anthem-MCA-325.html Nice to have the same power to all speakers but the front 3 are most important. Your AVR as mine does will power the surrounds with ease.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
My experience? Older, used Adcom GFA-7500, 5-channel at 150w/pc @ 8 ohms, works great for me. This actually replaced 2 Emo amps, a 250w/pc 2-channel and a 200w/pc 3-channel, with more refined sound and no loss of dynamics. Of course, this had a lot to do with the pairing of Emo and Polk RTi speakers - a notoriously harsh combo. I could imagine that newer Emo models and the more laid-back LSiM series might be a more acceptable match, IDK. I'll leave that assessment to those who've experienced it.
-
XLR or RCA?
My subs will be here Tuesday or Wednesday. What kind of cords do you recommend and where to get them, please. I bet you thought I fell of the earth.
I got my speakers and AVR hooked up and at this point I feel that it’s lacking. Hopefully the subs will fix it up and I will be happy. If I don’t, are there any suggestions on cords for the amp?
Again, I appreciate each and everyone of you for your help.
Thanks,
Rob -
RCA, mostly a preamp will only have XLR.
I like Audioquest Sub cables. Same price at BestBuy as online. Black Lab is good
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-black-lab-6-6-in-wall-subwoofer-cable-black-white/2877609.p?skuId=2877609
Irish Red is a little better
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-irish-red-9-8-subwoofer-cable-black-red/1805713.p?skuId=1805713
The SVS Soundpath isa good budget cable
https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-3M-RCA-Interconnect/dp/B0197UUN3W/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1_sspa?crid=3SSAEMBGVEFQE&keywords=svs+soundpath+rca+audio+interconnect+cable&qid=1558240190&s=gateway&sprefix=SVS+Sound,aps,199&sr=8-1-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1
What wires did you use to hookup the speakers? Did you run the AVR calibration? When calibrating a system you need to have it quiet as possible. I turn the fridge breaker off
Oh once you get your subs in you will be able to set the speakers to small crossover to 80hz. let the subs do the heavy work.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
Cabling is a touchy subject, it mostly depends on what kind of sound you prefer. Most cabling will add some sonic fingerprint, so, it becomes which sound you like. Some people swear by Audioquest, others can't stand them. Same goes for most every reputable brand out there...one person swears by brand X and someone else hates brand X.
Determine what it is you like about your system, and, what you don't like about what you're hearing and try to relate that here. That can help in cabling suggestions. I have several sets of interconnects that I could let you try out. I settled on Wireworld interconnects and speaker cables. I recently went back and rotated Audioquest, Morrow, Silnote, Analysis Plus and KCI cables only to realize that the Wireworld was still the best...for my system, for me.
I think Skip may still have a couple of WW sub cables still for sale in the Flea Market. Good prices.
Don't forget a decent power cable for the subs. I got a good deal on some Zu Audio Mission and Event cords from their Ebay store. 5ft Missions can be had for around $55, Event cords can be had for about $110.
Also, did you get the upgrade feet from SVS for your subs? -
RCA, mostly a preamp will only have XLR.
I like Audioquest Sub cables. Same price at BestBuy as online. Black Lab is good
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-black-lab-6-6-in-wall-subwoofer-cable-black-white/2877609.p?skuId=2877609
Irish Red is a little better
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-irish-red-9-8-subwoofer-cable-black-red/1805713.p?skuId=1805713
The SVS Soundpath isa good budget cable
https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-3M-RCA-Interconnect/dp/B0197UUN3W/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1_sspa?crid=3SSAEMBGVEFQE&keywords=svs+soundpath+rca+audio+interconnect+cable&qid=1558240190&s=gateway&sprefix=SVS+Sound,aps,199&sr=8-1-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1
What wires did you use to hookup the speakers? Did you run the AVR calibration? When calibrating a system you need to have it quiet as possible. I turn the fridge breaker off
Oh once you get your subs in you will be able to set the speakers to small crossover to 80hz. let the subs do the heavy work.
Thanks for the response mrloren. I used the Mediabridge 12AWG 2-Conductor Speaker Wire (200 Feet, White) - 99.9% Oxygen Free Copper – ETL Listed & CL2 Rated for In-Wall Use (Part# SW-12X2-200-WH )
by Mediabridge for the Polks. I added banana plugs to them. Hopefully this will be ok. If it isn’t, I’ll reorder. Please advise.
As far as the XLR, my Yamaha 3080 has them I think. I’ll recheck in the morning. Yes, I did run the calibration. I got an error reading saying that I may have a wire hooked up the wrong way. I checked twice and they all are positive to positive and negative to negative. I read that sometimes this is just an inaccurate reading and not to worry. I’ll order some sub cables tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.
-
Sorry for the double post I don’t know how it happened but, please forgive.
kharp1, I’m riding in the car and it’s hard for me to respond. I’ll get back later, but thanks for the advice.RCA, mostly a preamp will only have XLR.
I like Audioquest Sub cables. Same price at BestBuy as online. Black Lab is good
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-black-lab-6-6-in-wall-subwoofer-cable-black-white/2877609.p?skuId=2877609
Irish Red is a little better
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-irish-red-9-8-subwoofer-cable-black-red/1805713.p?skuId=1805713
The SVS Soundpath isa good budget cable
https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-3M-RCA-Interconnect/dp/B0197UUN3W/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1_sspa?crid=3SSAEMBGVEFQE&keywords=svs+soundpath+rca+audio+interconnect+cable&qid=1558240190&s=gateway&sprefix=SVS+Sound,aps,199&sr=8-1-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1
What wires did you use to hookup the speakers? Did you run the AVR calibration? When calibrating a system you need to have it quiet as possible. I turn the fridge breaker off
Oh once you get your subs in you will be able to set the speakers to small crossover to 80hz. let the subs do the heavy work.
Thanks for the response mrloren. I used the Mediabridge 12AWG 2-Conductor Speaker Wire (200 Feet, White) - 99.9% Oxygen Free Copper – ETL Listed & CL2 Rated for In-Wall Use (Part# SW-12X2-200-WH )
by Mediabridge for the Polks. I added banana plugs to them. Hopefully this will be ok. If it isn’t, I’ll reorder. Please advise.
As far as the XLR, my Yamaha 3080 has them I think. I’ll recheck in the morning. Yes, I did run the calibration. I got an error reading saying that I may have a wire hooked up the wrong way. I checked twice and they all are positive to positive and negative to negative. I read that sometimes this is just an inaccurate reading and not to worry. I’ll order some sub cables tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.
-
Well there is one problem. Mediabridge is about the same or a step below Monoprice which I find to be as low as I would use to hookup surrounds.
Go to best buy and buy some AQ Type 4. see if it makes a difference. If it does you can either keep them or return them. If you do experience a change in sound but don't want the big price tag Give Doug a call. 12AWG Furez is great cable https://douglasconnection.com/product/furez-12-awg-2-conductor-speaker-cable-raw/
the banana's used make a big difference cheap ones suck.
https://douglasconnection.com/product/furez-tstsb40ag-silver-plated-copper-banana-plug-connectors-pair/
or
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-SureGrip-100-BFA-Silver/dp/B01ERUR330/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2/135-1376462-4470211?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01ERUR330&pd_rd_r=27116bea-7a7b-11e9-b2d1-7fb6059bc3dc&pd_rd_w=UgVIV&pd_rd_wg=1WUak&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=V1YEBFJ63C7MKTKBZ4HA&psc=1&refRID=V1YEBFJ63C7MKTKBZ4HA
I'd give Doug a call, He is a forum member give fellow members discounts and will not try to over sell you.
@DSkip is another great member who is in the audio business that you can reach out to.
Not trying to start another cable or wire debate hereWhen I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
How long of a cable do you need? If I have a demo unit that’ll work I’ll ship it to you free of charge.
You talking about that Wireworld junk? You wouldn't happen to have any of those crappy Platinum cables laying around would ya?? -
How long of a cable do you need? If I have a demo unit that’ll work I’ll ship it to you free of charge.
I’m sorry DSkip but what type of cable are you talking about?
That is very generous of you. You are too kind.
If you are talking about speaker cable, I need
4 20 feet cables
2 12 feet cables
1 8 feet cable
Rob
-
Well there is one problem. Mediabridge is about the same or a step below Monoprice which I find to be as low as I would use to hookup surrounds.
Go to best buy and buy some AQ Type 4. see if it makes a difference. If it does you can either keep them or return them. If you do experience a change in sound but don't want the big price tag Give Doug a call. 12AWG Furez is great cable https://douglasconnection.com/product/furez-12-awg-2-conductor-speaker-cable-raw/
the banana's used make a big difference cheap ones suck.
https://douglasconnection.com/product/furez-tstsb40ag-silver-plated-copper-banana-plug-connectors-pair/
or
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-SureGrip-100-BFA-Silver/dp/B01ERUR330/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2/135-1376462-4470211?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01ERUR330&pd_rd_r=27116bea-7a7b-11e9-b2d1-7fb6059bc3dc&pd_rd_w=UgVIV&pd_rd_wg=1WUak&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=V1YEBFJ63C7MKTKBZ4HA&psc=1&refRID=V1YEBFJ63C7MKTKBZ4HA
I'd give Doug a call, He is a forum member give fellow members discounts and will not try to over sell you.
@DSkip is another great member who is in the audio business that you can reach out to.
Not trying to start another cable or wire debate here
Wow, I had no idea that these cables and banana plugs were so expensive.
I’m just about down to nothing in the cash department right now.
Wow, those audioquest cables from Best Buy are crazy expensive for me.
The longest they have are 10 feet and a pair cost $279.98.
I need
4 20 feet cables
2 12 feet
1 8 feet
Also with the banana plugs being $25.00 per pair, I’m looking at $350.00
Talk about sticker shock!
It looks like I’m going to not get set up as fast as I thought I was going to.
Looks like I was a little too naive.
I do appreciate all of your advice though, as I want my setup right.
Thanks, all of you are great!
Rob
Maybe I’m missing something. I’ll re-read this whole post.
-
The longest they have are 10 feet and a pair cost $279.98.
Pocket change in the cable world.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Wow, I had no idea that these cables and banana plugs were so expensive.
I need
4 20 feet cables
2 12 feet
1 8 feet
Also with the banana plugs being $25.00 per pair, I’m looking at $350.00
Talk about sticker shock!
Maybe I’m missing something. I’ll re-read this whole post.
Yeah man, you got the organs, now you have to incorporate the all the veins so the blood can flow...…
@mrloren mentioned douglasconnecton, that is going to be a great way to get yourself some quality materials that won't break the bank. I've been getting 10g copper wire from Doug to set up my entire set up. I've also learned how to make good quality RCA interconnects with materials from Doug as well.Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
1. Used cables are your friend.
2. The cables don’t all need to match, especially if you’re putting together a hybrid system that prioritizes two channel music. Get the best cables and amp you can for the mains, perhaps the front three, and let the receiver power the rest with the cheap cables you ordered.Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Get some 10 or 12awg Furez from Doug, Audioquest BFA from Amazon. Decent speaker cables for around $100
I scored my Type4 from CL for $60 for 3, 10'. Used cables can be a great deal.
That mediabridge stuff might be ok for surround duty. If your saying it doesn't sound good I'd be looking at replacing it down the road.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
https://douglasconnection.com/product/furez-12-awg-2-conductor-speaker-cable-raw/
@mrloren already posted this link, but I'll share it again. I personally think it's all you need for now. If you decide later on that you want to replace the front soundstage with something better you can do it then. You may just like the sound and decide to never upgrade the cables. I'd definitely not worry about doing anything better for the surrounds.
As @rooftop59 mentioned, used is the way to go. Only issue I see is that 12' cables are going to be a little more difficult to find. If you could get away with 8' cable for the mains, I'd hook you up on the cheap with a pair of speaker cables Doug made for me that I'm no longer using.Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden -
Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
I see you already bought cables, so just use what you have for now until more funds become available.
I use BlueJeans Cable. Here are some options on Amazon or you can go directly to their website.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bluejeans+cable&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoInnBRDDARIsANBVyARSXcbBL3iKeXnNVSeLG1ffkUjiY3ihOwLLAu8WmVBufkjI9QVgI_MaAsQ6EALw_wcB&hvadid=182750911438&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9002166&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8229052990298624117&hvtargid=kwd-2995820421&hydadcr=18885_9696298&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_6de1hsqtbu_e
Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2 -
Cabling is a touchy subject, it mostly depends on what kind of sound you prefer. Most cabling will add some sonic fingerprint, so, it becomes which sound you like. Some people swear by Audioquest, others can't stand them. Same goes for most every reputable brand out there...one person swears by brand X and someone else hates brand X.
Determine what it is you like about your system, and, what you don't like about what you're hearing and try to relate that here. That can help in cabling suggestions. I have several sets of interconnects that I could let you try out. I settled on Wireworld interconnects and speaker cables. I recently went back and rotated Audioquest, Morrow, Silnote, Analysis Plus and KCI cables only to realize that the Wireworld was still the best...for my system, for me.
I think Skip may still have a couple of WW sub cables still for sale in the Flea Market. Good prices.
Don't forget a decent power cable for the subs. I got a good deal on some Zu Audio Mission and Event cords from their Ebay store. 5ft Missions can be had for around $55, Event cords can be had for about $110.
Also, did you get the upgrade feet from SVS for your subs?
Sorry that I haven’t responded to your post.
Thank you for the offer on the interconnects. Very generous of you. I’ll show you how uneducated I am, if you haven’t already figured it out, what are interconnects?
Are they what runs from a AVR to an AMP? Also, I figured that a power cable came with the sub. OMG, I’m so stupid but, you guys are keeping me on top of things.
Upgraded feet for the subs, I have wood floors so I’m assuming that I need them? That doesn’t seem to be as expensive as most everything else.
Thanks and I’ll let you know about the “interconnects “ when I find out for sure what they are.
You and everyone else on here are so helpful and kind. I hope y’all don’t have a secret forum where you talk about me and get your laughs. If you do, I’m sure I’m on the top of the list.
Rob
-
I’m going to tell you guys a secret about me. I bought a pair of Polk SDA CRS speakers around 1984 or 1985. I’ve been a Polkie for a long time. I still use these speakers and that’s the reason I bought the Polks for my new system.
Owning these speakers doesn’t make me an expert, as you know, but I’m a long time fan. -
Sorry that I haven’t responded to your post.
Thank you for the offer on the interconnects. Very generous of you. I’ll show you how uneducated I am, if you haven’t already figured it out, what are interconnects?
Are they what runs from a AVR to an AMP? Yes, you are correct Also, I figured that a power cable came with the sub. Sub will come with a power cord, but some feel you will benefit from an aftermarket cord. My opinion would be to start with the stock cord and upgrade when/if you chose to do so. FWIW, I have an upgraded power cord on my sub, but if somebody made me go back to a stock cord it wouldn't be the worst thing that could happen to my system.OMG, I’m so stupid but, you guys are keeping me on top of things.
Upgraded feet for the subs, I have wood floors so I’m assuming that I need them? That doesn’t seem to be as expensive as most everything else.
Thanks and I’ll let you know about the “interconnects “ when I find out for sure what they are.
You and everyone else on here are so helpful and kind. I hope y’all don’t have a secret forum where you talk about me and get your laughs. If you do, I’m sure I’m on the top of the list.I actually suspect that you are very respected since you've asked questions and are actually listening to the responses and educating yourself
Rob
See responses in bold
Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden -
Get some 10 or 12awg Furez from Doug, Audioquest BFA from Amazon. Decent speaker cables for around $100
I scored my Type4 from CL for $60 for 3, 10'. Used cables can be a great deal.
That mediabridge stuff might be ok for surround duty. If your saying it doesn't sound good I'd be looking at replacing it down the road.
Thanks Mrloren, I’ll keep my eyes open. Thanks for calming my nerves along with everyone else!
