What did you do to your stereo rig today?
Comments
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Picked up my cables from Skip on Sunday. System is in place but room is a disaster. I’ll post pictures later. Cables only have a couple of hours on them but the system is sounding really good. I cannot believe the change in dynamics.
Did you pick up the Thunderbirds? I have been enjoying the heck out of the RCA's. Debating to change the speaker cable from the Wireworld Eclipse Silver 8 or not.Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's. -
Did you pick up the Thunderbirds? I have been enjoying the heck out of the RCA's. Debating to change the speaker cable from the Wireworld Eclipse Silver 8 or not.
Yes, I have both the RCA and the Thunderbird Zero speaker cables. I still only have about 20 hours on them so not ready to make a statement about them. In fact, I am gonna go turn them on now and get some time in.
2 Channel Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II, 2 REL Carbon Limited, Norma Revo IPA-140B, Lumin U2 Mini, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Modwright PH 150, Denon DP-59l w/Denon DL-301MKII, WAY Silver 3 Ana+ Speaker Cables, WAY Silver 4+ Interconnect Cables, AudioQuest Niagara 7000 w/Dragon and Hurricane Power Cables -
Did you pick up the Thunderbirds? I have been enjoying the heck out of the RCA's. Debating to change the speaker cable from the Wireworld Eclipse Silver 8 or not.
Yes, I have both the RCA and the Thunderbird Zero speaker cables. I still only have about 20 hours on them so not ready to make a statement about them. In fact, I am gonna go turn them on now and get some time in.
Around that 300 mark is when I really noticed a difference on the RCA. I listened to them off the bat and then just let the Zen play for a few weeks strait and then listened to them again 2 weeks later and I could hear quite a bit of difference. Man now I want to check the speaker cables out!Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's. -
Before I moved the 1.2TL's to the store room to repaint them, they were about 10" from the back wall (the corners of the room where the speakers sit had a lot more bass compared to the seating area). When I moved them back into the living room I placed them 6" from the back wall. Talk about a dramatic improvement in bass at the seating area! Interestingly, now there is hardly any bass in the corners where the speakers are. Extremely happy with this change.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
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Knocking on one of the L200 speakers, I noticed a nasty vibration. I placed carpet under the stands, a temporary fix until I can afford proper speaker stands.
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Looks like a pretty small top plate ^^^.
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Beautiful setup- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24794
I am considering these stands from Monoprice. Has anyone had any experience with these particular stands? -
Look beefy, add some sand or lead shot and call it a day- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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194 5-star reviews out of 221 total reviews would be enough to convince me.CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
CFarrell_SoundUnited wrote: »
That amp looks Classy!Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
Elegant. I really like the L200’s.
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Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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The purple lights aren't my taste, but cudos to you for going the extra mile.
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I use Philips HUE lights in the room. Just about any color option can be set via the app.
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Nice setup. I'm partially color blind so that's a nice shade of Blue.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
CFarrell_SoundUnited wrote: »https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24794
I am considering these stands from Monoprice. Has anyone had any experience with these particular stands?
Yes, I bought a pair and I'm very happy with them, but you need to plan on filling them. They had a terrible ring at first, but I filled them with aquarium gravel and they are virtually dead now when you thump on the columns. I have my R200 on them and they are very solid.
I used this: 2x 20lb bags was enough for two 24" stands (actually had a good amount leftover, so 2 bags would probably also work for the taller 28" stands if that's what you're considering). https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/imagitarium-nutmeg-aquarium-gravel-20-lbs-2558340 -
I installed a discontinued Sonore Audiobyte USB to I2S module from the spare parts bin in my DAC. This remains a SOTA USB module with isolation and re-clocking all on one board. I have it running in synch, the Audiobyte supplies clock for the DAC. To disable my DAC's onboard clock, I just have to remove its power regulator and connect the external clock via a short U.fl cable.
Roon sees the Audiobyte as an unrecognized I2S device. That means no Native DSD option will show up in Roon. In 2019, Roon changed their programming. The device must report it is Native DSD capable in order for the Native DSD option to show up under Playback Strategy. In Linux anyway (I use Roon Rock). I think Windows users can just use ASIO driver to do native.
It will do DoP though (DSD over PCM). I have Roon converting files to DSD128, the maximum Roon shows with this configuration. IMO, I never heard any difference between Native DSD or DSD over PCM. Conversion does take more CPU processing, so server CPU needs to be capable. Sounds fantastic!
Roon allows naming device so that's why Sonore Audiobyte shows in menu.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Nice work!!!!
Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's. -
Doing magnet gluing, Dynamat to baskets & Black Hole 5 behind mid woofers.
Cut up the BH5 this morning.
Now having several frosty beverages… -
CFarrell_SoundUnited wrote: »https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24794
I am considering these stands from Monoprice. Has anyone had any experience with these particular stands?
I think those are the same stands Audio Advisor sources to sell under their Pangea brand. I wasn't happy with the pair I got because of fit and finish issues. I don't think they're high enough quality to match the rest of the gear in your system in the long term, and buying something inexpensive may actually be a waste of money.
Personally, I'd look for a pair of stands in the $500 and up range for LSiM speakers and use those stands long term.
Something similar in quality to these for a high end two channel system...
https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/furniture/target-mr-series-speaker-stands/
BTW, what model are the Rel subwoofers?Post edited by Emlyn on -
Thank you for the tip and excellent advice, @Emlyn. Those stands look nice, and I will consider them. The Rel subs are the S/3 model.
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Moon Phone pre burned up its power supply. So I've reinserted the Schiit. I'm gonna have to look for a new/different one.2-channelBelles 22A Pre, Emotiva XPA-2 Gen 2, Marantz SA8005, Pro-Ject RPM-10 Turntable, Pro-Ject Phono Box DS3B, Polk Audio Legend L800's, AudioQuest Cable throughout.
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Installed the sl2500 I received from @wispolkboy into the one monitor 7 series 2 I picked up several months ago that had a dead tweeter. Now I just have to figure out why the DC resistance between the two differs by almost an ohm. Noticed the mw in each is different. I suspect based on the dust cap one is not the original. Both mws are Polk and sound good, but different. The joys of used speakers...
Just to clarify, there's nothing wrong with the tweeter I received. There's something else at play I need to investigate. -
Installed the sl2500 I received from @wispolkboy into the one monitor 7 series 2 I picked up several months ago that had a dead tweeter. Now I just have to figure out why the DC resistance between the two differs by almost an ohm. Noticed the mw in each is different. I suspect based on the dust cap one is not the original. Both mws are Polk and sound good, but different. The joys of used speakers...
Just to clarify, there's nothing wrong with the tweeter I received. There's something else at play I need to investigate.
can you post pic of the two mw's? glad the tweeter is working out for you...M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters -
Moon Phone pre burned up its power supply. So I've reinserted the Schiit. I'm gonna have to look for a new/different one.
Sorry to hear that man. That bites.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Polk's new production woofers in the late 90's had bigger dust caps that covered the voice coil leads on the woofer. Prior production you could see the voice coil leads. Personally I found no difference in sound between my original mw6501 and the newer production mw6501 that I had.
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I’ve posted about these before, but keep finding more uses for them all the time:
I’ve been delaying looking into why I’m getting rattle from my SVS SB-1000 Pro sub for about 6 weeks now.
I figured either the cabinet wasn’t designed well enough or the sub itself might have been bottoming out.
During a loud bass passage that was causing the rattle sound, I put my hand on top of the woofer cabinet with good pressure and the rattling stopped, so I ruled out that the woofer was bottoming-out.
I had been using rubber screw-in footers from SVS to protect my hardwood floors, but apparently some bass frequencies were causing the sub to bounce, which caused the rattle sound.
Replaced the rubber footers with Pangea Pico feet (no affiliation), and voila(!), deep, clean, fast, punchy bass and rattling was gone.
I love these things!CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
Saw cutting done. Outer dimensions and True 3" radius programmed. 400 grit process up next...
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.