Crossover for RTA12B

CH46E
CH46E Posts: 3,591
edited June 2018 in Vintage Speakers
Looking for quality caps for my rta12b. Having a hard time finding 4.4 uf. May have to buy eight 2.2uf.

I need two 56 uf, four 4.4 uf, eight 27uf, two 56uf and four 750pf silver mica.

And two 7.5 ohm resistors.

No Solen, Dayton or Aeoms please.

Thanks
Post edited by [Deleted User] on
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Looks like the 4.4 are in a more critical location and am willing to pay good money for the right caps.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,446
    edited June 2018
    You do not need the 750pf silver mica caps with better film caps.

    Go to soniccraft.com. Sonicap gen. 1 is going to have most and the others will be close enough.
    If you want Jeff will make the exact value needed. It costs but worth it if you want the exact value.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,561
    http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/gen-sonicap-44-uf-200vdc-p-433

    They have the 27's too. For the 56 you'll have to parallel two 18uF and one 20uF.

    You don't need nor should you use the 750pF bypass caps when upgrading to film/foil caps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Ok, just remove the bypass 750s? Jeff had me do that when he sold me all the caps for my JBL L80Ts.

    On that 56uf i notice there is very little space for it on the board. Not sure how ill be able to fit 3 film caps on there.

    Thanks guys for the info!
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited June 2018
    Oh ok..... i was wondering how you found the 4.4 on sonicaps. Turns out my phone was not displaying the pages on his site right. Now i can see all his options. Sweet! This will simplify things.

    I was happy with the sonicaps in the JBLs.


    Do you think thw level 3 matching to within a .25 uf is worth $5.00?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,446
    Off the board with wire leeds to the XO or get very creative
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    This is what i have in there now. Think there would be any issues with the Mundorfs for the 56uf? Ill have to get the 27uf later.

    or4dvw7wkcrk.png
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,446
    350v will be huge. Just an fyi
    I guess not much different than 3 lol
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Placed the order today. Just need the 27uf caps now.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited June 2018
    Do you guys think useing Clarity Cap CSA 27uf 250v would be a good match? They are $25 ea vs the sonicaps at $43 ea. I need 8 of them so it adds up fast.

    Any tips or pointers for improving mid bass punch? I also purchased some speaker gasket to seal all the drivers and PR. I was going to put a fresh bead of silicone in all the seams of the cabinet. I have also been reading about adding a bit of bracing. Was thinking about a brace or two between the PR and the drivers.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    These are the Clarity Caps.

    xho22sbrufkr.png
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    How do i move this thread to "Vintage Speakers"? And change title to "X over RTA12B"
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,561
    Mixing brands could work, but it could also be a disaster.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,446
    edited June 2018
    CH46E wrote: »
    How do i move this thread to "Vintage Speakers"? And change title to "X over RTA12B"

    @KennethSwauger nuff said

    I know they get pricey but you're doing it once correct? So if you find you do not like it then it is VERY expensive. Take your time, if it was me they would be all sonicap or clarity. I have been putting my caps together now for 8 months saving here and there to make it work for my 2.3TL's.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Thanks Kenneth!

    Pitt, i may just go ahead and wait to purchase the Sonicaps. Uggh.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    You're welcome!
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    350v will be huge. Just an fyi
    I guess not much different than 3 lol

    Good lord, you aren't kidding! These things are huge!

    pckcktia5i38.jpg
    emp2bsd9lund.jpg
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    t1ovamfsrk35.png
    8uhx3xzizm3x.png

    You can relocate the 4.4s to the center, and 2 X 27uf hand matched for 55uf
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    Thanks Westmassguy.

    Do you think relocating the 56uf to center is a bad idea? Im not sure if the inductors will be affected by it. Also, what did you use to seal up thoes inductors? And one more question, once i have the old caps off what can I use to clean the boards? Mine look horrible!

    tch6jof8wqeb.jpg
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  • RandyCroissant
    RandyCroissant Posts: 475
    Looking great! You will love the sound once broken in. One thing I don't recommend any silicone be used in speakers, silicone outgasses corrosive fumes and will corrode your connections.
    Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
    Polk SDA2btl highly modded
    Polk SDA 1C modded
    Polk CS350 LS x2
    Kimber 8TC
    Sony 55" Bravia
    Wish list SVS sub

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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited June 2018
    RandyCroissant wrote: »
    Looking great! You will love the sound once broken in. One thing I don't recommend any silicone be used in speakers, silicone outgasses corrosive fumes and will corrode your connections.

    Should i even bother with sealing the joints? As far as i know there are no leaks. Just figured if i was i there might as well make sure its sealed.
    If so, what should i use?

    Thanks for the heads up on the silicone!

    Also, i just set it there to see if it would fit. Have not started on them yet. Still need 8 27uf caps.
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    CH46E wrote: »
    Thanks Westmassguy.

    Do you think relocating the 56uf to center is a bad idea? Im not sure if the inductors will be affected by it. Also, what did you use to seal up thoes inductors? And one more question, once i have the old caps off what can I use to clean the boards? Mine look horrible!

    tch6jof8wqeb.jpg

    Hot glue on the inductors. I use a china bristle and canned air for dust, and 99% isopropyl alcohol for the old adhesive. Inductors and caps don't interact when placed next to each other.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited June 2018
    westmassguy wrote: »
    CH46E wrote: »
    Thanks Westmassguy.

    Do you think relocating the 56uf to center is a bad idea? Im not sure if the inductors will be affected by it. Also, what did you use to seal up thoes inductors? And one more question, once i have the old caps off what can I use to clean the boards? Mine look horrible!

    tch6jof8wqeb.jpg

    Hot glue on the inductors. I use a china bristle and canned air for dust, and 99% isopropyl alcohol for the old adhesive. Inductors and caps don't interact when placed next to each other.

    Juat happened to find out the wife has a hot glue gun! Score. One less thing to buy! Now if i could only find my solder iron! I was going to set the SRS2's back up while i work on the 12B. Maybe it is just my room, (to small for the srs 2) but they dont sound as good as the 12b IMHO. Cant wait to get these done.
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    You will love these after the sonicap upgrade. I would also recommend upgrading the tweeters to RD-0194’s - major improvement!
    I did both of these mods to my RTA-12c’s.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited June 2018
    drumminman wrote: »
    You will love these after the sonicap upgrade. I would also recommend upgrading the tweeters to RD-0194’s - major improvement!
    I did both of these mods to my RTA-12c’s.

    Would that call for a value change in capacitors? I thought i read in the past that the 194 is not a sutible tweeter for the 12B. I recently removed the silver coil domes (sl2000?) and put some oem peerless in. I like them. When i got these 12b both tweeters were bad.
    Post edited by CH46E on
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,561
    The RD0194 is the direct replacement for the SL2000 that came with your speakers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited June 2018
    F1nut wrote: »
    The RD0194 is the direct replacement for the SL2000 that came with your speakers.

    Mine came with peerless. Or so i thought......Thats what i have in there now.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,561
    Ok, I see now that you replaced the original Peerless with the SL2000, so yeah stick with the Peerless.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, I see now that you replaced the original Peerless with the SL2000, so yeah stick with the Peerless.

    Ok thanks, i thought maybe my message was a little confusing.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,591
    edited October 2018
    I did one XO last night. Still waiting on buying the 27uf caps. Think I may go with Mundorf. I did have to solder some leads to get the 56uf cap in that spot. These boards are very easy to solder on. Nice surprise.

    I also removed the old tweeter leads and put some Audioquest type 4 solid copper leads in there. I did not solder them to the tweeter yet as I'm not done with the caps.


    These caps are not directional right? Non-polarized??

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    sh8ethcp74zs.jpg
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