no bass 3.1tl
Answers
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Nope, not me. sorry. Good luck, again.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Those are 6 ohm speakers. That is what mine measure at the posts. Put your meter on ohms and check them.2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
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Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
they are 4 ohms, and both the good and the bad are reading 4.2 as of right now.
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or did we just find a conundrum
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they are 4 ohms, and both the good and the bad are reading 4.2 as of right now.
Your speakers are 6 ohm nominal. You're measuring resistance not the nominal impedance.
Swap the damn crossovers.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
out of curiosity i measured across the reds and blacks respectively and am reading zeroes all around from black to black and from red to red, so looks like jumpers are doing their job?
on a side note, after looking through previous replys i gotta say theres no need for name calling in these discussions. if its not what you would do fine, but no need to insult someone else because you disagree with what they did. be kind. -
Let me repeat, whoever did those crossovers is an idiot.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
id love to swap them but no time left tonight. will have to do in morning.
like i said in the original post, im new at this. what setting should my multimeter be on so as to read impedence -
You cannot do that with a multi-meter.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
well that explains it. im not an electrician. im an audio enthusiast and a new one at that. never even soldered before and tonight was the second time ive ever touched a multimeter. but thanks for trying anyways im greatful
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Glad to help and don't worry, we'll get to the bottom of this. At this point the most logical thing to do is swap the crossovers, so let us know what happens when you get the chance to do it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
yeah got it, please stop with the negative comments though.
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Actually, you can do that with a DVOM (multi meter). But you also need an amp, and a sine wave generator, then you can plot the impedance curve. Anywho, best to check that the MWs move freely first. Then you can do a continuity check of each MW (one wire must be disconnected to get a clean measurement).
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Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
they do all move freely, all the magnets are jb welded in place. when you say i need an amp to test can i use my tube amp or something different? i think there is an oscillograph in the basement but that belongs to my friend who is unreachable for another week or two
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You really need to do as F1 suggested. Moving to crossover to the other speaker isolates the problem if it is the crossover. Testing all kinds of things with O-scopes is needlessly adding unnecessary complications to a very simple test. If it's only doing it in one speaker and it follows to the other speaker you now know EXACTLY where the problem exists. Those crossovers are a huge mess with glue and zip ties all over the place.
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Just because you can, doesn't mean you have to. Simple tests are the best route here. Besides, the impedance test won't point you to the problem.
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i concur, im jjst out of time for myself tonight.
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Just a passing observation....they worked fine before storing them, 2 years later they don't.
my first guess is your losing air in the cabinet. Given their age, this is somewhat normal. Sometimes it's not as visible either as one might think.
2ND guess.....and as others have already stated, those crossovers look like something out of a horror movie. Swapping them as suggested will help more quickly narrow down your problem. I would at some point set aside some coin to get them both done properly.
If you already tested the woofers, and your amp for certain is common ground, your connections legit, swapping the crossovers and sealing the cabinets are your next 2 steps. Nothing that hasn't already been said....but if you feel they may require more coin or work than your capable of providing, then maybe it's time to part with them and move on.HT SYSTEM-
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Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I still have a pr. of ADS 910's I think. One speaker had no bass. I checked the woofers individually that had no sound coming from them before and they were fine. The midrange works fine and the tweeter works fine.
So it's in the cross-over.
I think you have a bad capacitor or bad wiring on that cross-over now.
It does look a lot worse ( like a few have pointed out and I agree ) than I've seen the forum pros do. These guys might help you locate the bad capacitor or loose wire.
Again, good luck. You're getting closer.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
went back to swap crossovers and now the mounting nut inside the inductor that holds crossover to cabinet came completly out. i dont see a way to get it back kn there without full removal of most of the caps. so im done for the night.thank you all
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The board should be held onto the inductor by nylon stand offs. Needle nose plyers are your friend. On one side of the stand off there is a piece that snaps out to hold the board on with the plyers squeeze it shut work to board over the top then find the others and do the same. The person who put the caps on had to do the same thing to be able to solder the caps to the board.
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went back to swap crossovers and now the mounting nut inside the inductor that holds crossover to cabinet came completly out. i dont see a way to get it back kn there without full removal of most of the caps. so im done for the night.thank you all
Agree with pitdogg2. Remove the crossover boards from the inductors and you can re-glue the screw back into place to hold the inductors (and crossover board) on the cabinet.
I had the same thing happen to one of my 3.1TL inductor/crossover boards. It's a pretty simple fix. Make sure there is no air leaking past the screw to escape outside the cabinet when you put the screw back in place (that's the point of the hot glue).
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."![:\](https://forum.polkaudio.com/resources/emoji/confused.png ":\")
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
tomorrow... im flustered. that is good to know i had no clue. ill try it out in the morning thanks a bunch for the hope
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i dont think i have what you said... these screws are going into the inductor
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tomorrow... im flustered. that is good to know i had no clue. ill try it out in the morning thanks a bunch for the hope
Also, looking at the pictures you posted (again). The crossover boards are held on by metal screws (and not nylon standoffs as they were originally) it looks like. Remove the (nuts?) on the underneath side of of the inductor and the crossover board will come right off the inductor. Just make sure you are holding on to the crossover board when you remove the nuts/screws.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
nothing on base and underneath except two rivits in the cemter. the rim is blank no bolts. two are accessible. the others are under that hot mess of crap that i know nothing about. in other words, I know nothing John Snow
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Yeah, I just noticed that. The screws must be screwed directly into the plastic of the inductor? That's also very unusual (like the internal jumpers). I also cannot say that definitively without holding the crossover board/inductor in my hand.
You will just have to unscrew the screws from the top of the crossover board. There are 4 of them. The toughest one will probably be the one near the two large inductors and the black colored capacitors. It may be very very difficult to get that screw off, actually. without actually having the crossover board/inductor in my hand it's tough to say. Looking at the picture I will say it's gonna be tough.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
holding it, im saying not possible without a flux capacitor and a dinglehopper. or full desolder and removal of gobs of hot glue. which is what its looking like
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If the screws were put in, they must be able to get the screws out without removing the capcitors. From what I know, you cannot put the crossover board on the inductor (that is, screw it down) and then solder the capacitors into place; it's not physically possible. Maybe someone else knows how the screws were put into place? They are not the way I would do/have done them.
Maybe the other two fasteners (not the screws in the picture) are still the original nylon standoffs ( I can't tell from the pictures)?
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
