no bass 3.1tl
ps4y2ch0
Posts: 33
greetings! ive found a pair of 3.1 tl's upgraded with sonicaps and some kind of new resistors and other things. i ran them for years but not in at least two now. when i swapped them in yesterday, the right channel had zero bass at all. i have removed every driver and checked for lose wiring and tgere isnt any. visual inspection of crossover was good, nothing broken anyway. where should i start poking atound to find the fault and on what setting should the multimeter be on? im pretty new at this. thank you and im sorry if this is not in the right forum
Best Answers
-
5 6.5's coupled to a 12" passive. why a goose? youd have better luck with an african swallow...
Ah, I see. In my TL brochure, they look different than the 1.2's and 2.3's. Like a conventional driver.
I have never had good luck with "African swallows", but that's another story, not suited for this website during "Family Hour". -
Have you checked the jumpers on the back of cabinets?2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre
Answers
-
Torn midwoofer surround, or cabinet air leak would be my first thought.
-
Did you check for magnet shift? IIRC the 3.1s are 6ohm.
-
theres no leak or torn surround. none of the drivers are receving low end signal. i figured it must be crossover related. all good places to start though. i have no clue how to check for magnet drif. i have multimeter but dont know how tobuse it yet
-
I thought the 3.1's weren't passive? Maybe that is irrelevant, though. *Shrugs shoulders and uses a goose as a boomerang to the delight of eleven drunk Shriners in space suits.*
-
5 6.5's coupled to a 12" passive. why a goose? youd have better luck with an african swallow...
-
"...Yes, but what also floats in water?"
-
dkfreebird wrote: »Have you checked the jumpers on the back of cabinets?
yes i did they are hot glued on the inside and not feeling to lose at the post. how would i check that with multimeter -
I’m talking about the jumpers on the posts. Are your speaker wires plugged into the top post or bottom post? If they are in the top plug them into the bottom post and that will tell you if it is internal.2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
yes the jumpers on the inside are tight as are the internal speaker wires and its all hot glued to stay that way.
-
Did you try the speaker wires on the bottom posts on the outside of the speakers?2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
yes the jumpers on the inside are tight as are the internal speaker wires and its all hot glued to stay that way.
He means the jumpers on the outside. -
I found the answer to NO BASS on a few occasions. 2 were mine, one was a friends goof.
The + wire HAS to go from red to red.
- wire then goes from black and black.
If you don't get bass after checking the above, I can't help you except see if your receiver is sending the bass to a sub output.
Good luck to you. You've got an awesome speaker set there!Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
im running pre straight into tube power amp, no sub. wiring is all correct. thanks for trying
-
there are no outside jumpers because its done inside via nice wire
-
there are no outside jumpers because its done inside via nice wire
If that's true, I would verify that the wires inside (on the binding post cup) are in fact "jumpered" correctly. It is very unusual for them to be jumpered on the inside of the speaker binding post cup. I guess the previous owner and yourself never plan(ned) on doing bi-wiring?
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."![:\](https://forum.polkaudio.com/resources/emoji/confused.png ":\")
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
i dont mind bi-wiring, but correct about the previous owne. i am contemplating chipping out the hot glue just to verify tightness on all the posts. to answer an earlier comment i hook up to the bottom two posts as recommended. and yes its wired correctly because it worked perfectly for years and havent changed a thing. i just wish i knew how to use this multimeter to check for solder issues
-
There are two sets of outside binding post so therefore one needs to have a jumper in place outside between the upper and bottom red and black posts. See picture in ebay link
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-Audiophile-Polk-Audio-SRS-3-1TL-Speakers-Made-in-USA-Matching-Pair-/222223597464 -
there are no outside jumpers because its done inside via nice wire
If that's true, I would verify that the wires inside (on the binding post cup) are in fact "jumpered" correctly. It is very unusual for them to be jumpered on the inside of the speaker binding post cup. I guess the previous owner and yourself never plan(ned) on doing bi-wiring?
Boom 100% agree with this^^^^^^
Unscrew the binding post cup and show us a picture of the inside. There will be no need to remove any if the glue we will be able to tell right away. -
Yep, we need pics. Inside and out.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
-
You didn't say if the drivers moved in and out on that right tower. Could some be frozen now?Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
-
-
previous owner was very proud of his glue gun
-
-
Get the polyfil out of the bottom. It should only be behind the woofers no where near passive radiator. Yes they are jumpered inside. BUT that is not something i would of done.
I've never understood why someone would spend all the money on good caps yet not change or skimp on the resistors. -
That's a real mess!
Try swapping crossovers to see if the problem follows.
I have to add.....only an idiot would jump the posts internally.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
How about just the speaker wires from the amp first?Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
-
already swapped speaker wires, and swapped rca's to be sure. does anyone know what a multimeter should read at the binding posts?
