New internal hook up wire for speakers
pitdogg2
Posts: 25,441
If someone was to install new internal hook up wire for the speakers you think something like this would work very well ? My thoughts is to use red and black twisted together and white and green twisted together for positive and negative tabs on the drivers. I was pretty sure DK Raife used Audioquest but do not remember which I'm pretty sure this was not one he tried in his.
Thoughts ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audioquest-SP-16-4-16-AWG-bulk-Speaker-cable-sold-by-the-foot-unterminated/162082841562?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Thoughts ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audioquest-SP-16-4-16-AWG-bulk-Speaker-cable-sold-by-the-foot-unterminated/162082841562?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Comments
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If someone was to install new internal hook up wire for the speakers you think something like this would work very well ? My thoughts is to use red and black twisted together and white and green twisted together for positive and negative tabs on the drivers. I was pretty sure DK Raife used Audioquest but do not remember which I'm pretty sure this was not one he tried in his.
Thoughts ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audioquest-SP-16-4-16-AWG-bulk-Speaker-cable-sold-by-the-foot-unterminated/162082841562?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Ray @DarqueKnight used pricier cable, but it was Audioquest. I've used FLX 14/4 many times for bi-wiring or just regular speaker wire with great success.
The "other Dan" @mantis can likely tell you more about this stuff, but I think its just a spool of their installer grade in-wall speaker wire (see link). Should be decent...
Otherwise Dougs got similar cable for not too bad a price either plus our discount. If I had to guess I'd say Furez is equivalent to Audioquest in this instance."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Ray used AudioQuest GO-4 15 AWG Hyper-Litz.
He also used Cardas Litz 9.5AWG on a couple projects if I'm not mistaken. -
I first rewired my SDA 1.2TL's with Cardas 9.5 AWG, then replaced that with AudioQuest GO-4.
All my other SDAs and my LSi speakers were rewired with Cardas 9.5 AWG.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
DarqueKnight wrote: »I first rewired my SDA 1.2TL's with Cardas 9.5 AWG, then replaced that with AudioQuest GO-4.
All my other SDAs and my LSi speakers were rewired with Cardas 9.5 AWG.
I was hoping you would see this and chime in
Thanks Raife -
Thanks Mr. Skip
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AudioQuest sells a few of their cable models unterminated. Refer to pages 36 and 37 of the current (June 1, 2016) pricebook, which can be downloaded from their website (scrool all the way to the bottom).
Any AudioQuest dealer can order this for you. Shop around for the best deal. I ordered an 80 foot spool from Audio Advisor.
Below is my thread about the GO-4 rewire. Sorry about the missing pics. Send any complaints to the shakedown artists at Ph0t0$uckit.
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/141258/audioquest-go-4-internal-wire-replacement-for-the-sda-srs-1-2tl/p1Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
I think using FLX or SLP from Audio quest in a 14-4 or even 16-4 configuration for internal wiring would be excellent.Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
I think using FLX or SLP from Audio quest in a 14-4 or even 16-4 configuration for internal wiring would be excellent.
You have a great can't be beat price per foot there Dan? I'd lean to the 14-4 twisting two together. Both of those are LGC and one being in wall correct -
Check out he Wireworld Helicon 16. It comes in OFC and OCC versions.
I used the OFC version of the Helicon 16 in my 2.3TL's.Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
Notice a difference? -
Pittdogg2,
This is what I posted shortly after I installed the wire.
"The improved separation of instruments and vocals creates more depth, clarity and realism."
It's a lot of work building the harnesses but I am glad I did it. It also presents the opportunity to replace the fastons. Some of the originals were not as tight as they should have been.Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
Thanks did you use the ohno or ofc?
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Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
Thanks a bunch machone -
So you gonna start with re-wiring them internally first, and then do the Xover upgrades I take it?"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
EndersShadow wrote: »
I'm speaking hypothetically. I have a friend who is asking me to look into stuff for him. Trying to get all ducks in a row to give an idea what the full Monty will be for him.
Post edited by pitdogg2 on -
So is there a downside to using silver coated copper wire? Is it grainy or harsh sounding?
Has anybody used Silvered copper? I'm not talking tinned copper -
Personally, I would do OCC wire. In my experience, it gives greater clarity and detail compared to OFC.
I must confess, I have not used OCC for rewiring the internal wiring in my SDA's, so far. But, when I used it in my DAC it was very evident in the sound quality difference.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
No decisions have been made. I'm just doing my due diligence to cover all bases. Silver coated copper had been brought up by another. I have only used it in video applications and was under the impression that for audio it could be harsh, sterile or whatever.
Skip is correct when using 60-65 feet that cost can get out if control quick like.
Thanks guys -
FWIW, I don't like the sound of "pure" silver wire -- dunno about the silver-plated copper; no ears-on experience. I guess there's some logic to silver-plated copper, related to the skin effect (which isn't really a factor at audio frequencies, tho' some folks insist that it can be) and the relative resistivity of silver vs. copper.
YMMV. I'd say try before you invest too heavily in it. -
I'm now using solid silver cables between the power supply and the main amp. For years I was afraid this would result in a bright sound. Boy, was I wrong and sorry I waited so long to get the cables. They brought even more realism to my rig that I thought was pretty real already.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You guys know more about this stuff than do I.
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I'm now using solid silver cables between the power supply and the main amp. For years I was afraid this would result in a bright sound. Boy, was I wrong and sorry I waited so long to get the cables. They brought even more realism to my rig that I thought was pretty real already.
What cable are you using Jesse?
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee