2.3TL internal rewire

gmcman
gmcman Posts: 1,806
edited February 2017 in Vintage Speakers
Been contemplating this for awhile, not sure which wire I'm going to use but first I need to get an idea of total length.

I've read that 30' per speaker is about right, I assume this is the length of a red/black pair? Taking into consideration the leads from the binding posts I'm looking to use roughly the same length as the factory harness.

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,440
    edited February 2017
    Get in there and measure, then add 2' for safe measures. :p
    Have you decided what your going to use wire wise
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    I was in there installing the rings, wasn't thinking about measuring at the time...not hard to do, just curious if someone already measured that part out.

    I was thinking on using DH Labs OFH 14 hookup wire, or possibly the AQ GO-4 that DK used in his re-wire albeit more expensive. The OFH-14 is a larger gauge than the stock wire so I'm not sure how that translates into overall resistance or if it would affect the crossover frequency. I'm not set on those choices solely, just brainstorming for now.

    One other component I was contemplating looking into are the molex connections. I don't know if modifying them would change the sound, but I want to assume that even small changes could be beneficial.

    Perhaps using some high purity copper wire soldered to the crossover board at the locations of the molex, then using a high quality XLR connector like the Vampire XLR or for a modest price increase, the Furutech XLR, along with the chassis mount secured inside the speaker...however these are 3-pin connectors so this would be an expensive option and would leave unused pins when pairing them for the 4 & 5 pin molex. I like that they are a gold or rhodium plated copper or copper alloy, and not a tin connector used in the molex.

    The Neutrix connectors are a possibility as they have a higher pole count, also a cheaper option but I would really like something as conductive as copper or silver at the connection and I don't believe Neutrik has that option.

    What gave me that idea is when you take into account the speaker wire, binding posts, upgraded internal wire, upgraded SDA cable, etc, etc, you still have a small tin pin to bring it all together.

    Perhaps the tin molex pin is plenty sufficient, mine sound good but again it's just a thought I had on using a higher quality quick-disconnect option other than the molex.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,440
    Furutech 14ga on mine worked well.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    Thanks, I'll look into those.

    I did get new molex connectors and pins so using the molex won't be an issue. Surely would be pricey to use 12 high end XLR connections....which is my dilemma. .would be a total blind guess.
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    I used Helicon 16 OFC for my 2.3TLs.
    It takes 15 meters tp do the job. I ordered 14 meters and had less than one foot left over. That's cutting it too close.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    Here is a BOM of my build.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    Was there a sonic advantage or disadvantage noticed with rewiring?
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,440
    edited January 2019
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Was there a sonic advantage or disadvantage noticed with rewiring?

    I would say yes there is an advantage. The wire Polk used was pretty good the down fall was the quick connects** they used. Much better gold plated quick connects can be bought at Autozone or Advanced Auto. I used them on my own SDA1 signature and SDA2a rewire and found no problems I will use them again for me Polk 2.3TL rewire.

    ** I have found that the old quick connect in my opinion do not age well. I have seen them discolored and crusty from some sort of corrosion. I cannot speak for everybody but from the several pairs of older Polk speakers I have rebuilt all looked the same. When I rebuilt my 2.3tl XO's I used a stainless steel wire toothbrush and deoxit to clean mine before reassembly. I will use the same quick connects mentioned above on the 2.3tl
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    edited January 2019
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Was there a sonic advantage or disadvantage noticed with rewiring?

    Yes, there was a noticeable sonic advantage. Whether it was the wire alone, the soldered connections, or both is hard to say.

    I made a recording before and after, same setup...but I wish I used the Sennheiser bit hadn't acquired it yet. The mic I used works well but not the best for that type of comparisons. Either way, if you listen to the stock wire in its entirety, then the Litz, it should be clearly evident the upgraded wire was smoother and cleaner.

    Link to thread:

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/182947/cardas-litz-internal-re-wire-for-2-3tl
  • I got upgraded internal wiring from @VR3 when he did my crossovers for my 3.1's. Definite benefits.
    I did all of that together when we had the last group transformer buy, so I cannot say what did what to the sound.
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    When I redid my 1C's and 2.3's I used cardas solder to solder the wire to the stock crimped on connectors and used deoxit but was wondering if the wire needed replaced as well. I plan on trying some better mid-caps on the 1C's soon and want to source some better wire.

    Thanks all!
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus