SDA upgrade thread 2
Comments
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Man, you been bz! Sealing the cabinets is 1 thing I totally overlooked when I had mine open...dang it! Still, they do pass the push test so maybe it's not really needed on mine. I guess if I open them up again I will do it though along with an inductor change. My wife says they sound good as are and I kinda agree with her. Adding the BH5 was worthwhile for sure...really looking forward to getting my tube pre back for some serious listening.
Keep calm and mod on!Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
I did the push test on mine by pushing in the passive radiator. All of the woofers came out and then immediately settled back down a bit (*not all the way though*) So I definitely have some cabinet leakage somewhere.
However I have to go to another hardware store and pick up some more Power Grab in the larger container that you use with the squeeze gun. The ones that I have are like toothpaste tubes and as you can see in some of the pics it ain't workin' out too good.
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I think you will find the larger tubes to be harder to work with. Just run a small bead on the seams and smooth it out with your finger. I tried the larger tubes on mine and went to the smaller ones.2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
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Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
It's hard to get a gun into the cabinet.Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
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Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
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"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
Okay so smaller tubes and rubber gloves it is!
Thanks @dkfreebird and @machone !!
If anyone else has any experiences/tidbits/tips post'em here. This is why I started this thread. -
You are doing a good job! Thanks for posting the journey.Basis 2200 Signature, Vector 4, Transfiguration Proteus, Allnic H3000, Meridian 200/563, CJ ET5, McIntosh 501's, Thiel CS6, 3.6, Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl, MIT EVO, KS/Wywires PC's
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they also make a power grab in a pressurized can that might work in there. First I'd remove everything, trying to work around stuff is a pita
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You can also use a rounded end popsicle stick to form the Power Grab into a nice fillet for cabinet seams.
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littlewoodboats wrote: »You can also use a rounded end popsicle stick to form the Power Grab into a nice fillet for cabinet seams.
yep i always keep a bag of those around. So many uses very versatile. Any craft store or wal-mart will have them. -
littlewoodboats wrote: »You can also use a rounded end Popsicle stick to form the Power Grab into a nice fillet for cabinet seams.
Popsicle stick eh?
COOL
I see`em all the time discarded. Now of course just because I'll be looking for one I won't find any!
Thanks @littlewoodboats ! -
I got the self pressurized can type and it worked fine for me. You don't need no stinking gloves, just wipe your finger off on a hand towel. It mostly comes off, the rest in the following days
afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
I got the self pressurized can type and it worked fine for me. You don't need no stinking gloves, just wipe your finger off on a hand towel. It mostly comes off, the rest in the following days
Dass juss NASTY
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I got the self pressurized can type and it worked fine for me. You don't need no stinking gloves, just wipe your finger off on a hand towel. It mostly comes off, the rest in the following days
or you could wash your hands, it is water soluble -
I did, still couldn't get it 100% off, I may have just lost patience too soon though.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
You know,this requires a LOT MORE work,patience and attention to detail than it looks like on some of the threads that I've seen. You have to make sure you mark the wiring once it's removed from each driver. So that you NOT ONLY know which driver it goes to,but also which is the positive terminal. You also have to have a small,Flathead screwdriver or something of that sort to CAREFULLY pry the drivers out of the countersunk holes in the cabinet. Gluing the magnets ain't no picnic either.
Next step is to apply more glue to the corners of the cabinet and then apply the Blackhole 5 that you see lying on the cabinet. -
The wiring is JUST long enough to go to each driver,so it would be VERY EASY to get it all mixed up.ESPECIALLY when some of it is wired in series!
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I'm gonna take my sweet time doing this. All this bending over the cabinets and what not ain't exactly a walk in the park anymore when your middle aged
and I don't have a workshop or workbench in a garage like some of the guys on here. Small apartment here with no basement or garage. -
It's a good thing I love my Polk SDA's and like doing stuff like this!!
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ONE Blackhole5 pad installed (*yay*) I'm done for now. Get black to this later -
Man, you been bz! Sealing the cabinets is 1 thing I totally overlooked when I had mine open...dang it! Still, they do pass the push test so maybe it's not really needed on mine. I guess if I open them up again I will do it though along with an inductor change. My wife says they sound good as are and I kinda agree with her. Adding the BH5 was worthwhile for sure...really looking forward to getting my tube pre back for some serious listening.
Keep calm and mod on!
@muncybob
Again my thanks for the BH5. When you do the push test look CLOSELY at the woofers when you push in the passive radiator. While your hand is holding the PR in look to see if the woofers move back inward while your hand is still and holding the PR in. If the woofers move then you got air leakage! I discovered it's far easier to see when the cabinet in flat on it's back on the floor. -
Hobbits?
Never heard of`em -
No matter how air tight the cabinets are the MWs will always retract because the dust caps can breathe.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
honestaquarian wrote: »Man, you been bz! Sealing the cabinets is 1 thing I totally overlooked when I had mine open...dang it! Still, they do pass the push test so maybe it's not really needed on mine. I guess if I open them up again I will do it though along with an inductor change. My wife says they sound good as are and I kinda agree with her. Adding the BH5 was worthwhile for sure...really looking forward to getting my tube pre back for some serious listening.
Keep calm and mod on!
@muncybob
Again my thanks for the BH5. When you do the push test look CLOSELY at the woofers when you push in the passive radiator. While your hand is holding the PR in look to see if the woofers move back inward while your hand is still and holding the PR in. If the woofers move then you got air leakage! I discovered it's far easier to see when the cabinet in flat on it's back on the floor.
Laying on their backs is not how you test for air leaks because you now have this thing called gravity to deal with. In addition, as Nightfall noted, the drivers will retract regardless. The time span is 3 to 5 seconds.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Looking good!
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
On the push test, the drivers will retract slightly but then will maintain their outward position for 5+ seconds...never really timed it but it was more than 5 seconds I'm sure. I'm glad I had my pool table to work on my cabinets!
So, if I was interested in going to the next level of making my 2B's TL, besides a new tweeter what is needed. My x-overs are already done with sonic caps, mills, etc. I must say, I'm fairly happy with the way they sound now but as usual you don't know what you don't know.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
The rings will be next.
Now that I think of it the woofers did hold in place for a few seconds after they settled.I'm still sealing the cabinets though. I've already started doing it so.......... -
On the push test, the drivers will retract slightly but then will maintain their outward position for 5+ seconds...never really timed it but it was more than 5 seconds I'm sure.
You don't understand the push test. It is the amount of time the drivers stay ALL the way out, before they react to their resting position.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Well then, I guess I have cabinet leakage...opening them up again...sigh.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Push the PR in and hold. The mids will move forward, start counting. Should be 3 to 5 seconds as they slowly retract to a resting position. As you release the PR the mids will suck in, then slowly return to rest.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
honestaquarian wrote: »You know,this requires a LOT MORE work,patience and attention to detail than it looks like on some of the threads that I've seen.
Yeah, and people look at me sideways when I say I don't like doing the work involved in mods.honestaquarian wrote: »You also have to have a small,Flathead screwdriver or something of that sort to CAREFULLY pry the drivers out of the countersunk holes in the cabinet. Gluing the magnets ain't no picnic either.
Next step is to apply more glue to the corners of the cabinet and then apply the Blackhole 5 that you see lying on the cabinet.
I made a small pry bar from a piece of clothes hanger wire:darqueknight wrote:
Figure 3. This thingamajig, which was made from a wire clothes hanger to assist in pulling drivers from a speaker cabinet, has proven useful in lifting off the snug-fitting covers of my X600.5 power amps and in spreading strips of Dynamat in tight places.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
This discussion has been closed.