Group Buy '16: Dreadnought Avel Lindberg 1000VA Isolation Transformers

heiney9

Thanks guys, see this is why I wanted a detailed write up. I had no idea we'd need these little things as I've never done one before. I don't happen to have some of this stuff around.

Any other little tid bits you can remember

agfrost

Jesse's build thread was food for my planning. Picture shows the grouping of wires from the A-L transformer and the connectors Jesse (and I in his fashion) used to connect Xformer to Neutrik:

http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/142058/a-slightly-different-take-on-the-dreadnought/p1

Connector Needs:
1) Stainless Steel Bolt/washers/lockwashers/nut(s)--for mounting transformer to case. Needs to be non-magnetic stainless.
2) Screws/washers/nuts for fastening Neutrik connectors to case & speaker terminal cups

Am I missing anything? Get 'em all on a single Fastenal order for one-shipping price.

Heck--here's a screenshot of *my* Fastenal order. I strongly recommend vetting this against other build threads to check on stuff I haven't thought about in 3 years--like "is that bolt the right size?" I suspect it is, but do some extra homework before ordering what I'm currently 85% sure is what I installed...



Looks like I ordered extra parts (as I tend to when shipping is greater cost than the parts themselves). If I can locate them, I'll tally them up and see about putting up a Karma.

agfrost

...I can see that I ended up purchasing both 3/8" & 5/16" bolts to test for my preferred fit--I'll see if I can ascertain which diameter "the loser" ended up being.

Edit: Caliper appears to show I've got a pair of 3/8" bolts that I did *NOT* use, which would indicate I went with the 5/16". Can any past Dreadnought builder confirm this?

heiney9

The transformer doesn't come with a mounting bolt or mounting plates? I bought a used 800vA from a member here a few years ago. Never used it and sold it. It had a mounting bolt and a lower plate.

agfrost

I'm laughing at how invested I am in this, since mine's been done for a couple years...

I'm going to open mine up and get some answers....

OK: I've taken a few (cellphone) photos which I hope are helpful.

Here's just a shot of my opened case, freshly retrieved from in between my 2BTLs. Others have twisted the matched wires--looks like I did not.



A closeup of one of two wires-to-Neutrik connections. Colors are harder to make out on this pic, but (Blue/Violet) are paired as are (Brown/Grey). I crimped both into female connector (yellow plastic) and hit the connection with some Cardas QE solder to boot.



The other side. (Red/Yellow) and (Orange/Black). If you look at other builds you'll notice that I used different tabs on the Neutrik than suggested by Jesse (F1nut) and perhaps others--This is because of the choices I made on where to solder my wires into the 4-pole Neutrik NLT4FX-BAG connectors I used on my cables. You'll need to match *your* choices made in the cables. You need continuity from transformer wiring to Neutrik to SDA cable to Neutrik to your speaker's internal SDA connections (I'm assuming you're going Neutrik on both ends)--or no worky. With the female disconnects, it's easy to choose which tabs to connect inside the transformer case. You've clamped and/or soldered your SDA cables, so no choices there. If you're using 2-pole Neutrik, a bit less to ponder. The screw/nut you see is the hardware holding the Neutrik NL4MP-UC to the case. You have to drill two holes for each side.



Just a quick shot to show the 'washer sandwich' I made. All stainless. Fender washer, lock washer, nut. On the outside of the case I threaded another fender washer on the bolt before starting it in the hole in the case that Larry thoughtfully predrilled. (He probably just bribed a robot laser to do it)



The money shot, as it were: Proof that I used a 5/16" stainless bolt. No way is a 3/8" fitting in that hole (this transformer is potted through the middle).

F1nut

Brock, do you want one of us to come and hold your hand?

heiney9

F1nut wrote: »

Brock, do you want one of us to come and hold your hand?

No Jesse, but Jay's tutorial and pics have been extremely helpful. That's the kind of thing we do around here. Help each other out, make suggestions, share experiences, etc.

Sorry I've never built one before and many here have. I didn't think asking for advice was going to be such a pain in your azz.

Thanks Jay, you've been extremely helpful. Now I don't have to order all these parts separately as I run into issues.

H9

pitdogg2

Brock Autozone and Advanced auto have some very nice gold plated crimp on fast on's like Jay there used to attach wires to the Neutrik. go check them out

agfrost

Please realize that I didn't do a single unique thing in my build--I just thought I'd transfer some of the practices I got from people who got in on group buy #1 (I was 2nd wave, the "scuba" one. Hmm. Wonder if he got in on this group buy?).

Still worth your while to find/go through those older build threads (DK's, F1's). Most have used Dynamat in their cases. Still on the to-do list for me.

Good job on all of this GB's participants: No one got banned this time!

monepolk

Hey I appreciate all the info that you've provide. Thanks.

honestaquarian

Hey @heiney9 isn't the ONLY one benefitting from all of this. He's just the one asking the questions. I've never done this before either and obviously we aren't alone in this.

honestaquarian

DSkip wrote: »

honestaquarian wrote: »

Hey @heiney9 isn't the ONLY one benefitting from all of this. He's just the one asking the questions. I've never done this before either and obviously we aren't alone in this.

Maybe Rick can pull one of his geetars out and we can all sing kumbaya while we hold hands.

Yippeekyay muthaf@$%&#:!!!!

heiney9

Check out Performance Audio

http://www.performanceaudio.com/

They have all the Neutrik connectors and they have a very good price on Canare 4S11 cable if you haven't decided on what cabling to use with your Dreadnought. I have used Canare before and currently use it in my office rig. It's damn good stuff and many manufacturer's, whom I won't mention, use this exact cable and put sheathing over it w/their own name on it and mark it up 10-20 times.

$49 or more spent = free shipping. I have bought from them before and they are solid.

Just another alternative.

H9

pitdogg2

heiney9 wrote: »

Check out Performance Audio

http://www.performanceaudio.com/

H9

Thats a great price Brock. I have used Have inc before as they also are one of the few that carry black and theirs is 1.38per foot.
Thanks bookmarked your site

http://store.haveinc.com/p-49380-canare-4s11-starquad-speaker-cable-14-awg-cut.aspx

heiney9

Just an FYI,

Parts Express carries the Gold, insolated disconnects for the lugs on the Neutrik female connectors on the tranny case.

http://www.parts-express.com/gold-12-10-awg-0187-female-disconnect-5-pair--095-808

H9

Malbec

I believe those disconnects are too small if you are going with the chassis connectors jay linked in his post (NL4MP-UC). They are .250" 1/4" tab.

pitdogg2

Malbec wrote: »

I believe those disconnects are too small if you are going with the chassis connectors jay linked in his post (NL4MP-UC). They are .250" 1/4" tab.

Although not insulated the car place I'm refering to i believe are 6-8 pak for a lot less. I used them to wire up my SDA's when i did the xo.

F1nut

Too small Brock.

ken brydson

F1nut wrote: »

Too small Brock.

That's what she said..

machone

Madisound has gold plated fastons in several sizes including 1/4".

heiney9

I was trying to link to Parts Express since they have everything in one vendor regarding the Neutrik stuff. The idea is to minimize shipping costs from multiple vendors.

Too small Brock.

The Gold fasten ons I linked to will fit these. Unless I'm reading it wrong?

http://www.performanceaudio.com/item/neutrik-nl4mp-4-pole-speakon-panel-mount-connector/2798/

4 pole chassis connector, black D-size flange, countersunk thru holes, 3/16" flat tabs

Regardless they make other sizes depending on what you go with.

F1nut

That's not the NLT4FX-BAG, which takes .250 fastons.

edpot1

How does this look for a parts list? I'm leaving out the cables

Neutrik Connectors on Case
2x Neutrik Spekon Female Connector (Neutrik NL4MP-UC)
2x Neutrik D-Size Sealing Gaskets (Neutrik SCDP-0)
4x 1/4" 12-10 AWG Female Disconnect (NTE 76-FIFD12-250)
4x M3-0.5 x 16mm Stainless Steel Machine Screw (Fastenal #XM2510016A20000)
4x M3 DIN A4 Stainless Steel Split Lock Washer (Fastenal #ML6330000A40000)
4x M3-0.5 Stainless Steel A4 Hex Nut (Fastenal #MN2510000A40000)

Mounting Transformer to Case
1x 5/16"-18 x 3-1/2" Stainless Steel Tap Bolt (Fastenal #71185)
2x 5/16" x 1.250" Stainless Steel Fender Washer (Fastenal #0172789)
1x 5/16" Stainless Steel Medium Split Lock Washer (Fastenal #71065)
1x 5/16"-18 Stainless Steel Hex Nuts (Fastenal #70711)

Thanks heiney9 for asking the tough questions

agfrost

I see you're only considering the case at this time, but remember you're installing Speakons *four* times (assuming you're doing so on the speakers as well).

So Neutrik parts, including hardware would be doubled if you plan to use Neutrik NL4MP-UC also on the speakers.

heiney9

Much appreciated edpot1. $3.41 in fasteners plus $9.61 in shipping seems kind of silly. I will probably go to my local hardware store to get the fasteners. Thanks for including the dimensions and not just the Fastenal part number.

Thanks again Jay for sharing.

H9

F1nut

I will probably go to my local hardware store to get the fasteners.

Good luck with that.

heiney9

They are just down the street and have a separate wing dedicated to fasteners. I have zero doubt I can find what I need now that I have an idea of what I'm working with.

Why so combative and negative in this thread?

H9

P.s. Also there is a Fastenal branch minutes from work, but they don't stock all the stuff listed.

F1nut

I don't know Brock, for a measly $9.61 you get exactly what you need delivered to your door instead of wasting time at the store. Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace all have specialty hardware sections, but will not have all the stainless steel hardware required and what they might have will cost a lot more.

Moose68Bash

My experience has been very much like @F1nut 's.

I have two very good hardware/lumber yards near me -- one is Ace Hardware, the other True Value. They have very good fastener sections, and one of them has even cut down cap screws for me when they do not have the exact length that I need.

However, I've now begun to order what I need online for specialty products. I get exactly what I want, usually with free shipping, and the price is usually less or equal to those of the hardware stores -- without the cost in driving time and expense.

Lowe's and Home Depot never have everything that I need, except for the most quotidian items.

heiney9

F1nut wrote: »

I don't know Brock, for a measly $9.61 you get exactly what you need delivered to your door instead of wasting time at the store. Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace all have specialty hardware sections, but will not have all the stainless steel hardware required and what they might have will cost a lot more.

Yeah, $10 isn't much, but I think for $2.50 worth of goods that weighs less than a pound. $10 is a bit much. I realize it's not all retailers fault. FedEx and UPS are costly shippers.

FTR, our local hardware store has been in business for over 90 years and is locally owned not a national chain, and I happen to live in what was the screw and fastener capital of the US at one time not that long ago. Lots of surplus availability locally for a long time.

I'll try them first.

H9

P.s. that's $10 less I can spend on tubes!