RTA-11t problem

JPete

I just jumped the polyswitch when I did my crossovers. Still don't hear a need for added resistance. Shouldn't need to do that with the upgraded tweeters.

F1nut

Sure you should, .5ohms is very audible. Others, including myself can hear differences even smaller than that.

lightman1

That's because you're a freak of nature, Jesse.

F1nut wrote: »

Sure you should, .5ohms is very audible. Others, including myself can hear differences even smaller than that.

JPete

F1nut wrote: »

Sure you should, .5ohms is very audible. Others, including myself can hear differences even smaller than that.

I didn't say it wasn't audible, although I don't know because I didn't compare side by side. What I meant was, I don't feel like my speakers are too bright with the polyswitch removed and no added resistance. They sound balanced to me, and much much better than before the crossover refresh.

Have you found brightness to be an issue in this case? Or graininess? Maybe I've sold myself short by not adding the .5 back in. I thought that was built in to help tame the SL2000s.

11tsteve

the poly was tweeter protection, and has resistance. The .5 ohm is added to keep the crossover as close to original as possible.

F1nut

^ This ^

skrol

Some of the very early RTA11TL were marked RTA11T. These have the same cabinets, drivers, PR's and crossover as the TL but are labeled T. The 1990 date would be just about right.

It is possible that the crossover has an issue (ie. shorted cap).

I may have missed this earlier... Does the speaker in question cause the amp to go into protect when connected to either channel? Or just the one channel?

This is what my original RTA11TL (1991) crossovers looked like :

I found that the electrolytic (shiny blue) in parallel with the foil cap (yellow) was not properly soldered on one of mine. In fact someone missed soldering it at all.

derwood

Both channels

notified

After reading all that it seems to me from my inexperienced point of view the only other troubleshooting option would be to swap crossovers, If the good spk works as usual on both amp channels it stands to reason that the amp ain't the issue.Perhaps if by switching the xovers and the bad spk then works fine you'll know its something in the other xover,If the problem presents itself again with the good xover then perhaps its has something to do with a driver [ maybe a intermittent short.if thats even possible]

pkquat

I would try jumping the polyswitch before swapping crossovers. It will not harm anything.

One last thought is to check the midwoofers by lightly pressing them by hand and listen for any scratching sounds. If one magnet or cone is a little off, once it reaches a certain level, it could rub and be shorting.

Years ago a friend had one of two car subs that was just a little off and kept tripping the amp after about a year. It did not scratch normally, but we found it was a little off center. It could move one direction more that the other. In this case it was easier to test by just disconnecting one sub. One was an issue, the other was not.

RandyCroissant

I would press the PR in and listen for scratching sound from the MWs this method will move the MW cones out then back full motion. If you (and I hope you hear nothing) should tell you what's up.

westmassguy

It's possible one of the woofers in the suspect speaker was replaced. The 11t/tls should have MW6510 woofers. It's possible one of the woofers was replaced with a different model, say a 4 ohm MW6502. Check DC Resistance at the binding posts. The two speakers should measure within a few percentage points of each other. Pull one of the passive radiators, and visually inspect the crossover for evidence of heat damage. I'd also recommend pulling the woofers and checking the model numbers. While they're out, you can inspect and test them.