Power cord(s) inquiry

Still buying audio components on a whim, I bought a Pangea Audio AC9 MKII Power Cord & Pangea Audio AC 14SE MKII Power cable, one for the A21 the other for the Cambridge 851D. Should I plug these directly into my wall outlet or into the Furman PL-Plus C?
The AC9 MKII is a beast. Thank you for any wit & wisdom.
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Comments

  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,901
    i would plug the amp into the wall.
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
    Digital cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2 bnc, Tellurium Q aes, Silnote Audio Poseidon Signature 2 bnc
    Puritan PSM156
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Amp into the wall.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,962
    Ditto ^^^^

    How you liking that 851 so far Collin ? Seems like a very nice piece and should mate well with the A21.
    HT SYSTEM-
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  • ukcolin99
    ukcolin99 Posts: 286
    Hello Tony, thank you gentlemen, appears the Forum is unanimous, wall it is, 'guess I am trading surge protection for full power..
    I am 100% digital mostly alac out of iTunes, few cds, pretty sure 'sounds better.
  • Derm
    Derm Posts: 95
    Why not plug the power amp into the conditioner?
    Speakers
    Front - LsiM707, Front presence - LsiM703, Future ATMOS - VS 700LS
    Center - LsiM706c, Rear surrounds - 80 F/X LS, VS 900LS. Sub - (pair) Klipsch R-12SW
    AVR - Yamaha RX-A3010
    AMP - NAD C275BEE
    Main HT - LG 4K 75”, Sony UBXP800M2
    Bedroom HT - LG 55" 4K, Philips BDP7501 4K UHD player , Yamaha SRT-1500 sound projector, Spare room HT LG 50” plasma, Yamaha BD-671
    Office - Pioneer X-CM56, Bose iPod dock
    In Storage - 4 - RTiA9, RtiA3, CSiA6, FXiA4, Blackstone TL1

    The only source of knowledge is experience. Albert Einstein
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 10,716
    jump to @pkquat 's thread to read the next chapter!
  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,901
    Derm wrote: »
    Why not plug the power amp into the conditioner?
    Most conditioners limit current and then there's that sound quality thing.
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
    Digital cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2 bnc, Tellurium Q aes, Silnote Audio Poseidon Signature 2 bnc
    Puritan PSM156
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    As I mentioned in @pkquat 's thread today, I decided to move the plug for my Hafler 500 from the Tripp-Lite LRC2400 to the wall last night. I tried this a year ago and could not hear any difference. However, since then I have upgraded to a Marantz SA8005, better interconnects and I now have rebuilt 2.3TL's.
    With the Hafler plugged into the wall I am liking what I am hearing and will report back as soon as I have more listening time.

    My question is: If I wanted to upgrade the power cord on the Hafler 500 "not designed with an IEC receptacle" I would opt for a wall plug with the cable wired directly to the chassis. This would be a simpler current path and less money.

    Am I right?
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    machone wrote: »
    My question is: If I wanted to upgrade the power cord on the Hafler 500 "not designed with an IEC receptacle" I would opt for a wall plug with the cable wired directly to the chassis. This would be a simpler current path and less money.

    Am I right?

    Or you could put in an IEC socket. I did that on my Carver TFM45. It also would not be hard to just put a new cord on that sucker BUT why limit yourself just do the IEC. The limiting factor is whether your unit has enough room inside to accommodate either.

  • ukcolin99
    ukcolin99 Posts: 286
    Thank you guys, found @pkquat thread in Electronics.
    Good stuff, as with all (nearly all) elements of audio you gotta listen for yourself. I am concerned about my A21 plugged directly into the wall-we get quality storms in Texas. Gonna listen for any differences in audio output between the Furman & the wall.

    PS I also bought a Pangea Audio Premier SE AC Outlet 20 Amp Clear Cover and Blue Base, $50.00. Probably have an electrician install & have him review breaker options for the house and/or specific circuit(s). I do like the idea of plugging the amp directly into the wall. The Pangea Audio AC9 MKII Power Cord & plug are heavy duty, thick & tough to bend might be a fight into the Furman.
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    pitdogg,
    There is room for the IEC socket. Musical Concepts upgraded the amp and they had that as an option. I am trying to get the job done without breaking the bank. Adding the socket might add flexibility and convenience but I don't see how adding another connection would help SQ.
    I could buy some power cable and a wall plug from Doug, get a larger strain relief sample from Heyco and hook it all up.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    ukcolin99 wrote: »
    Should I plug these directly into my wall outlet or into the Furman PL-Plus C?

    There is no "one size fits all". You will have to try it both ways and hear which sounds best.

    My amps with high transient current demands sound better plugged into the wall. My amps that do not have high transient current demands sound better plugged into a conditioner or AC regenerator.

    The Adcom GFA-5500 amps (350 wpc-4 ohms) in my home theater sound better plugged into a PS Audio P10 AC regeneration than plugged into the wall.

    The Adcom GFA-565SE power amp (350 wpc-4 ohms) in my office system sounded better when plugged into a PS Audio Dectet power conditioner, and better still when plugged into a PS Audio P10 AC regenerator.

    The Adcom GFA-5400 power amp (200 wpc-4 ohms) in my bedroom system sound better plugged into a PS Audio Power Plant Premier AC regenerator than plugged into the wall.

    My Parasound Halo JC 1 monoblocks (800 wpc-4 ohms) and my Pass Labs X600.5 monoblocks (1200 wpc-4 ohms) sounded/sound best plugged into the wall. However in each amp's case, the wall outlet was replaced with a passive in-wall power conditioner (PS Audio Soloist SE).



    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    Interesting stuff. I just added 2 Pangea 9seMKII's to my amp and pre (probably overkill on the pre) but haven't had much opportunity to do comparison testing.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    machone wrote: »
    pitdogg,
    There is room for the IEC socket. Musical Concepts upgraded the amp and they had that as an option. I am trying to get the job done without breaking the bank. Adding the socket might add flexibility and convenience but I don't see how adding another connection would help SQ.
    I could buy some power cable and a wall plug from Doug, get a larger strain relief sample from Heyco and hook it all up.

    Power cords come in all kinds of flavors. It doesn't make sense to limit yourself with a captive cord.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    F1nut wrote: »
    machone wrote: »
    pitdogg,
    There is room for the IEC socket. Musical Concepts upgraded the amp and they had that as an option. I am trying to get the job done without breaking the bank. Adding the socket might add flexibility and convenience but I don't see how adding another connection would help SQ.
    I could buy some power cable and a wall plug from Doug, get a larger strain relief sample from Heyco and hook it all up.

    Power cords come in all kinds of flavors. It doesn't make sense to limit yourself with a captive cord.

    I cut the power cord off on my 57" Hitachi TV almost where it connected to the circuit board, and then added an IEC connector. This let me use a Shunyata power cord, which gave a better picture via more vibrant colors and detail.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    Boy, you guys love to spend my money.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • pkquat
    pkquat Posts: 748
    machone wrote: »
    My question is: If I wanted to upgrade the power cord on the Hafler 500 "not designed with an IEC receptacle" I would opt for a wall plug with the cable wired directly to the chassis. This would be a simpler current path and less money.

    Am I right?

    I am not 100% certain, but I believe grounding to the chassis is fine, and recommended as an upgrade. I ran across a thread at DIY audio, that couldn't find again, about upgrading the power cord and making it a 3 prong while looking for DH-220 stuff. I did find these links. DIY Hafler mods, pg 11, http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/31131-hafler-dh-200-220-mods-11, html and here on page 4. http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/55995/refreshing-older-hafler-amp/p4
    Most go with an IEC plug.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Don't quote me on this, but I seem to recall that if there isn't a ground connection already that adding one could be problematic. Not all gear requires a ground connection. I even have new gear that doesn't.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pkquat
    pkquat Posts: 748
    F1nut wrote: »
    Don't quote me on this, but I seem to recall that if there isn't a ground connection already that adding one could be problematic. Not all gear requires a ground connection. I even have new gear that doesn't.

    I agree. Depending on house wiring, and what is plugged into what, where, and how, there is a potential for a ground loop. I also recall reading that, based on the design of some amplifiers and components, adding a ground wire would not do anything other than harm the audio signal and may even cause damage to the equipment.

    Based on what I have read, the Hafler can accept a ground wire without issue, other than there being the potential for a ground loop. If I recall, the fact that it can go to the chassis made it a easy mod for people wishing to add it, and providing there is no ground loop, it should not add noise to the system. If it does, then there is a ground wiring issue in the home that needs to be addressed.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    Neutral wire goes to ground in the breaker panel.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    machone wrote: »
    Boy, you guys love to spend my money.

    that is what we are good at :p come on now how long you been here lol
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    I'll call Musical Concepts and ask John. He's the Hafler expert. Seems like I remember it's ok to have a ground wire but it's location is critical.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    I am going ahead with the IEC socket and power cord. I checked the Hafler manual and it is ok to add the ground wire. It says to attach the lug next the incoming line fuse holder.

    I order a Furez socket from Doug and have everything I need except a power cord. I was thinking about a Shunyata Venom 3 is a good cable to try.

    Also, while I have the case open I will add Dynamat.

    Opinions please?
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    Shunyata, Wireworld, and PS Audio all make good power cables. I'm not a big fan of the Pangea I have. It's better than stock but there's better.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    I forgot to add that I am adding Cardas gold binding posts to the Hafler at the same time.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    AC-14
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    I order a Furez socket

    Do you mean Furutech?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    F1nut wrote: »
    I order a Furez socket

    Do you mean Furutech?

    Yes, Furutech. Confused it with the wire company.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Ah, very good. Get the gold plated ones, well worth the money.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk