Monitor 10A speakers, mine at last!

bguzmanjr

Well I finally got some recapped crossovers in my Monitor 10A's and they have definitely improved. More detail and better separation. Me likie!

bguzmanjr

Hello all,
Dynamat came today so I removed the woofers and passive radiators and applied a layer to the cages. While I had the box open I rearranged the stuffing so that it is all above the radiators. Every step makes these babies sound better and better.

solarrdadd

hey guzman, finally did it, got both my 10A & 5A monitor crossovers redone. they looked beautiful and man do they sound great. I didn't think I would hear such beautiful sound from these speakers, but, Lordy do they sound something special. I mean, they always sounded good, but now, I'm just shocked!

it's all true, better separation, much more detail in the midrange, deeper more destructive intentions on the bass and those Peerless Tweeters sing like crazy! I have the 10's as L & R fronts and a single 5 as a center in my bedroom 5.1.2

I got just about everything done, new caps, resistors, binding posts & wiring. i'll throw up a shot of the old crossovers and the new ones. my 5A's are dated 1980, I love it. best part of it all, those old assed drivers still seem to work perfectly and sound amazing as in even better than ever. I can only imagine that these might either be as close as factory new or possibly, a tad better.

I'm very glad I had them done. it was well within the price range I wanted to spend for a first time ever having something like this done. I'm glad I had it done. it may not have been the top shelf of components used, but, I'm very happy with the results. dare I say, very, very happy! the person who did the work was very good with communicating with me. the total turnaround time was less than 2 weeks from shipping them out to receiving them back. he had speakers for every type he upgraded so he could put the crossovers in them for testing before shipping them out to me and that was nice.

I can only imagine how they will sound after I get some serious burn in time on the crossovers. I must say, I was blown away at how good the 5A sounded as the center channel, they sounded different but, for the better. the dialogue sounded so nice from that 5A center. another thing, all of them sounded a bit louder too, perhaps that was the clarity of the new components I'm not sure, but they all sound great. 2 channel music sounds so damn good in the bedroom now. I even got a nice new 4 level a/v rack for the components as a part of my upgrade.

bguzmanjr

Glad you're liking the upgrade. It is totally worth it and takes them to the next level. The Dynamat tighens everything up even more and costs a fraction of the crossover upgrade. Come on man, don't stop now.

keck

Dear all, i am new to the forum. I just bought a pair of monitor 10A. i am not sure whether is it the peerless tweeter or the SL2000. The tweeter did not have and polk audio emblem on it or anywhere on the back, but it look like the same as bguzmanjr picts that he post.




Also, i took out all the drivers and notice not all is MW6500. The other two is MW6502 and MW6519, but they all look the same.



Also i planning to do the mod on the crossover , but could not find much picts and information in other threads. Is the crossover of 10A and 10B the same?



Greatly appreciate if anyone could help to provide more information also in the steps on the modifications.

F1nut

6519? Are you sure about that? Regardless, you'll need to start looking for two 6500 drivers. Even though they all look the same they are far from it.

You have Peerless tweeters, so Monitor 10A's, which have different crossovers than the B version.

F1nut

Your crossovers have the following.

Resistors:
(1) 2.5 ohm 5 watt
(1) 2.7 ohm 5 watt

Caps:
(2) 12uF
(1) 34uF

keck

Thanks F1 for the quick response. Yes, i am sure it is 6519 (show in the 1st pict which the number is blank over by black marker) which i dont know why.

So i am advisable to replaced the two drivers to 6500? because i hook up the 10A before i remove everything, it actually sound pretty good , though not as good as my SDA2B

Since mine is the peerless, i would not required to upgrade the tweeter to RDO-194 or RD)-198 as mention by Voltz previously.

And for the upgrade, i just need to do the recap on the crossover?

keck

Btw, i have search for the 6500 replacement, but it seems like its discontinued and the recommended replacement will be 6502. But 6502 is 4ohms instead of 8ohms. Will that make any different if i install 2 x 6502 on one speaker and 2 x 6500 on the other. Or is it better to get 2 x 6503 (8ohms) which is compatible with 6500 (8ohms)

lawdogg

Your crossovers are M10 originals (see http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/38755/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-more-all-models-except-sda#latest) which should be paired with MW6501 (8 ohm) or equivalent (see http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/154649/mw-6500-vs-mw-6501).

Off the top of my head I'm not sure about the compatibility of the MW6502 or MW6519 but I'm sure some searching around will help.

keck

Thanks lawdogg for the info. MW6501 or equivalent means and model that is 8ohms? So i can either get a preowned MW6501, MW6500 or new MW6503?

Just measured 6502 and 6519, both measured 4ohms. 6500 measure 8ohms. Guess i really need to get 2 more 6500 for the replacement.

Anyone idea how much should i spend for a preowned 6500, so i can have a guide whether to order a preowned 6500 or a new 6503.

txcoastal1

New listings with 6500's
https://www.hifishark.com/search?q=polk+6500

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322440808593?rmvSB=true

below listing ****NOT TESTED FYI
http://www.ebay.com/itm/152465489392?rmvSB=true

Old listings here in the flea market
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/174317/mw6500s-other-monitor-10a-components

http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/173874/mw-6500-drivers-for-sale-30-single-or-55-pair-shipped

westmassguy

keck wrote: »

Btw, i have search for the 6500 replacement, but it seems like its discontinued and the recommended replacement will be 6502. But 6502 is 4ohms instead of 8ohms. Will that make any different if i install 2 x 6502 on one speaker and 2 x 6500 on the other. Or is it better to get 2 x 6503 (8ohms) which is compatible with 6500 (8ohms)

The early 10s has 6500s, so do a search on eBay for them. Don't spend more than $30-35.00 each for salvaged parts. Make sure the seller packs them properly, and will give a refund if they arrive with shifter magnets.

pitdogg2

Westmassguys post should say shifted magnets. A well known problem with older Polk drivers.

keck

Thks guys. Have just ordered 2 x6500 from ebay.

Btw, how can i know if the magnet shifted? Can i just only hook up the driver to the crossover to test it, instead of install everything back.

pitdogg2

The driver will be locked up or very scratchy when you push in on it. If they are fine use this to glue up the magnets

https://m.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Multipurpose-Adhesive/999916313?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-ConstructionAdhesives-_-999916313:LOCTITE&CAWELAID=&kpid=999916313&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1203&k_clickID=5a51dfe6-9ff8-4d3a-b7cd-53ec84969c83

Do a search here using "powergrab" you should come up with plenty to get some ideas as where to use it on the back magnet.

keck

Thanks a lot.
As for the crossover mod, all i need to do is just to replaced all the caps and resistor (from Sonicraft)?
Since i and doing the mod, i am thinking i might as well replaced the binding post and all the cables.
Anyone has got any advises on my proposal? If it worth the upgrade as it will cost me another $100-$150. Will the speaker sound drastically different after the mod?

keck

These are what i needed for each crossover?
Resistors:
(1) 2.5 ohm 5 watt (mills)
(1) 2.7 ohm 5 watt (mills, can i use 2.7ohms 10 watt instead)

Caps:
(2) 12uF (Sonicap)
(1) 34uF (Sonicap)

Wow, just the above cost around $170. I started to hesitated should i mod or should i just use a lower quality caps.

westmassguy

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Westmassguys post should say shifted magnets. A well known problem with older Polk drivers.

I resemble that remark

westmassguy

keck wrote: »

These are what i needed for each crossover?
Resistors:
(1) 2.5 ohm 5 watt (mills)
(1) 2.7 ohm 5 watt (mills, can i use 2.7ohms 10 watt instead)

Caps:
(2) 12uF (Sonicap)
(1) 34uF (Sonicap)

Wow, just the above cost around $170. I started to hesitated should i mod or should i just use a lower quality caps.

You can use a Dayton 33uf in place of the Sonicaps, but keep the Sonicaps in the High-Pass section. 10 or 12 watt Mills or Vishay/Mills from Sonic Craft will be fine.
consider removing the Fuse Blocks as well.

keck

Thanks a lot, West. Just to confirmed the cap in the high-pass section is the one in yellow colour shows on the pict.

West, there is one thing i am not clear. You mention to removed the fuse block that is located at the back of the crossover. Do i need to replace it with any mill resistor, because i have went through the thread on Monitor 10s mod, some was recommending to replace the poly switch to mill resistor. Are they talking about the same things?

F1nut

You either have a fuse or polyswitch, not both. You have a fuse. The problem is the lead wires coming off the fuse block are badly oxidized after 30 years. You can't see this until you remove the fuse block by drilling out the rivet.you'll also need to clip the fuse leads at the binding posts and then seal the 3 holes in the plate.

The fuse has about 0.2 ohms of resistance, which you may wish the compensate for by increasing the high frequency resistor by the same amount. Yes, 0.2 ohms difference is audible.

The yellow cap is a mylar and is in the high frequency circuit.

keck

Got it, F1. So end of the day, i am going to removed the fuse block , then resolder the +ve wire from binding post straight to the board (bypass the fuse).

I notice Dayton only have 33uf cap. Will it be ok with that?

Thank you all. Understand this is not the crossover mod threads, but you guys still being so helpful.

F1nut

Correct. You might as well upgrade the binding posts while you're in there.

It's within the original 10% tolerance. That may be ok with some folks, but I want it as close as possible, so either two 17uF caps or a 34uF.

F1nut

Fuse block......just nasty.

keck

Wow, the block is badly corroded.
Thanks F1 for the info. i will probably go for 1 x 33uf.
Do you have any recommendation on the wire and binding post replacement?

machone

Cardas makes a nice line of binding posts

keck

Hi, F1. Previously, you mentioned the fuse has about 0.2 ohms of resistance, which i may wish to the compensate for by increasing the high frequency resistor by the same amount. Meaning that i will be replacing the 2.5ohms to 2.7ohms.


So components i need for ea crossover is:
Resistors:
2 x 2.7 ohm 10 watt (mills)

Caps:
2 x 12uF (Sonicap)
1 x 33uF (Dayton)

F1nut

That is correct.

I'd still spend the extra for the 34uF though.

keck

Had done my one side of crossover. Thnks for the advised, F1 but i will just stick to Dayton caps for the time being.

Still left wire routing. Left side is my original, Right side is the modded.


Also had applied PowerGrab on all the MW6500 drivers.



Am i still on the right path?