Sda crs
isarealboy772
Posts: 26
Had my SDA CRS's out last night playing music, when all of a sudden the bottom right speaker in the left channel caught on fire 
It burnt through the front screen and also burnt the top right tweeter (these are the dual tweeter earlier model). Any idea why this might have happened and how to prevent it in the future? I was most likely planning on buying new parts from Polk, they're my dads old speakers from college so they're somewhat of a sentimental item after he passed them down to me.
It burnt through the front screen and also burnt the top right tweeter (these are the dual tweeter earlier model). Any idea why this might have happened and how to prevent it in the future? I was most likely planning on buying new parts from Polk, they're my dads old speakers from college so they're somewhat of a sentimental item after he passed them down to me. Post edited by isarealboy772 on
Comments
-
pics please....--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
pics please....
![IMG_1824[1].jpg](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/2/1/8/2/6/4/84990.jpg)
![IMG_1825[1].jpg](https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/2/1/8/2/6/4/84991.jpg)
Should've put them in the original post, apologies.
My current receiver is a Kenwood VR-209, and I would say the speakers were playing relatively loud. Nothing crazy, but I'd say about 75% of the way turned up. I'd think I'm better off just buying a new receiver vs. getting it checked out, considering the current one isn't worth that much.anonymouse wrote: »The most likely explanation is a major malfunction in your amplifier or cabling sending a very high voltage to your speaker. It is VERY unlikely normal audio signals and volumes will result in a fire. I'd get that amp checked out by a pro. -
Good thing you were around when it happened!
Personally any electronic/electrical device that catches on FIRE gets replaced.
I dont fool around trying to fix it unless it is under warranty then i'd be calling the manufacturer for a replacement.AMP/Pre Pro: Outlaw 7000x, Marantz AV7703
Speakers: Fronts:LSiM 705s/ Center: LSiM 706c / Surrounds: LSim 703s
SUB: Rythmik LV12R x2
Source:OPPO UDP-203 -
Damn.....LOL
I agree with anonymouse that your receiver is the likely culprit. At 75% volume your receiver was being overdriven. The general rule of thumb, keep it below 50%. If that's not loud enough for you, you need more power.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Are you related to PFB? That's what happens when you listen to acid rock backwards while cooking meth...
Just giving you a hard time. That looks pretty scary, I would definitely try a different receiver and you may want to contact someone to do some crossover repair work.2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
Agree with others. You need more (high current) power.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."![:\](https://forum.polkaudio.com/resources/emoji/confused.png ":\")
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
Owww... That sucks. I tend to agree with others that you should look at the receiver. Sorry to see the meltdown.SDA SRS, SDA SRS1.2TL, SDA-1C,SDA 2B, Soundcraftsmen Amplification (A5002s, MA5002s, MA5002As)
-
The receiver may not be the problem, in terms of there being a failure inside it. It was clearly being over-driven into what I suspect is a 4 ohm load. The speakers can be fixed fairly easily, but I suspect BOTH suffered some damage. rebuilding the crossovers is a must, and obviously replacing the torched drivers.
You will find plenty of help here in getting them sounding better than new in no time.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
After all these responses, I think I'll be getting a higher watt amp regardless! Replacing the drivers I know I can do, I'll order some new ones from polk (hopefully that won't break my wallet toooooo much). Anything else... any help with that personally? I'm very new to repairing audio equipment. Any help is more than appreciatednooshinjohn wrote: »The receiver may not be the problem, in terms of there being a failure inside it. It was clearly being over-driven into what I suspect is a 4 ohm load. The speakers can be fixed fairly easily, but I suspect BOTH suffered some damage. rebuilding the crossovers is a must, and obviously replacing the torched drivers.
You will find plenty of help here in getting them sounding better than new in no time.
I'll search the heck out of the forums too. -
Welcome to Club Polk!
That's pretty impressive. I've never seen anything FLAME up like that (finger's crossed). You must have been really pounding them! What kind of equipment were you running? There are some amps that have no "relays" which is not a problem unless, well, unless there is something wrong with them and they decide to discharge a LOAD of current into what can't handle it! I have read about some amps going up in flames (such as the FLAME (PHASE) LINEARS. But never seen a speaker impersonate the Human Torch!
Lots of info on this site about your "crossovers" and replacement drivers are readily available. Those are NICE speakers!
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
I told the story of when I found these ratty Bose 601s that were rehabed and I later flipped. With them the guy offered me a Sansui receiver, I said well lets turn it on .Because it was in the attic for 20 years or so the dust build up caught fire immediately and we walked the thing to the curb and said thanks but no......
Your problem sounds like it sent 110v right into your speakers and just bypassed the step down x-former. Even before getting that new amp/receiver check the outlet you plugged into just for giggles ,you never know w/ electricity. Not good!!!2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
Only speakers I've ever seen catch fire were Bose. About 11 years ago, was working at Chuck E Cheese where most of their showroom speakers were Klipsch, which sounded fine. But they also had a large set of Bose speakers which were used close to the stage and there was a complaint about the highs not being very pronounced(surprise, surprise) so tech decided to adjust the equalizer to bring out more detail and then POOF! The tweeters blew.Display: Sony 42" LCD
Sources: Harman Kardon DVD-27,
Panasonic DMP-BDT110 blu ray player
AVR: Sony STR-DA2400ES
Amps: Sonance Sonamp 260(fronts),
Kenwood KM-894(surrounds)
Fronts: NHT 2.5
Center: NHT VS-1.2A
Surrounds: NHT Super One
Subwoofer: SVS PB10-ISD -
isarealboy772 wrote: »After all these responses, I think I'll be getting a higher watt amp regardless! Replacing the drivers I know I can do, I'll order some new ones from polk (hopefully that won't break my wallet toooooo much). Anything else... any help with that personally? I'm very new to repairing audio equipment. Any help is more than appreciated I'll search the heck out of the forums too.
Man that sucks, but like F1nut said if you need to crank the eviction control knob past 50% or 12 O'clock you need more power. If I'm not mistaken those CRS's are rated for about 200 watts @ 4 Ohms max.
The first thing I would do before ordering anything from Polk is check all the drivers, tweeters & crossovers so can get an idea on the costs to repair them. Tweeters & Drivers from Polk are around $50.00 each, so worst case you could be looking at around $400.00 for all new tweeters & drivers, On the tweeters if it's just the one you might be able to find a used SL1000 otherwise you'll need all 4, The RDO-194 is the replacement for the SL1000 and polk is out of stock until October.
The crossovers could run as much as $400.00 or more, just depends on how bad they are. Check out Trey at Vr3Mods he'll be able to give you abetter idea of cost.
Hope this helps.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
They were running through a Kenwood VR-209. Not exactly a great receiver, but it was holding me over till I found something better. I had them cranked up pretty high but didn't think they'd burst like this! It's probably partially since they hadn't be actively used like this for awhile. I'll definitely be doing my research! Heck of a lot to learn before I get these back in shape.Welcome to Club Polk!
That's pretty impressive. I've never seen anything FLAME up like that (finger's crossed). You must have been really pounding them! What kind of equipment were you running? There are some amps that have no "relays" which is not a problem unless, well, unless there is something wrong with them and they decide to discharge a LOAD of current into what can't handle it! I have read about some amps going up in flames (such as the FLAME (PHASE) LINEARS. But never seen a speaker impersonate the Human Torch!
Lots of info on this site about your "crossovers" and replacement drivers are readily available. Those are NICE speakers!
cnh
This helped immensely. It's a 500 watt amp, obviously I was pushing too much power in but had no clue it would result in something like this. After a couple quick google searches I actually found the SL1000 tweeters online for purchase, I think I'll go that route since I don't exactly have the budget to replace everything!Man that sucks, but like F1nut said if you need to crank the eviction control knob past 50% or 12 O'clock you need more power. If I'm not mistaken those CRS's are rated for about 200 watts @ 4 Ohms max.
The first thing I would do before ordering anything from Polk is check all the drivers, tweeters & crossovers so can get an idea on the costs to repair them. Tweeters & Drivers from Polk are around $50.00 each, so worst case you could be looking at around $400.00 for all new tweeters & drivers, On the tweeters if it's just the one you might be able to find a used SL1000 otherwise you'll need all 4, The RDO-194 is the replacement for the SL1000 and polk is out of stock until October.
The crossovers could run as much as $400.00 or more, just depends on how bad they are. Check out Trey at Vr3Mods he'll be able to give you abetter idea of cost.
Hope this helps.
That crossover price is going to kill me, I'll contact Trey about it hopefully they're not that bad. Thanks a whole lot. -
It's probably partially since they hadn't be actively used like this for awhile.
No, that's not it at all. It's not fault of the speakers, it's the fact that you caused the AVR to send a clipped signal/DC voltage because at that volume level it was being overdriven. That's not to mention your AVR is not even rated to drive a 4 ohm load.It's a 500 watt amp, obviously I was pushing too much power in but had no clue it would result in something like this.
No, it's not a 500 watt amp. It's an AVR, not an amp and it's only rated for 100 wpc, 2 channels driven. Had you actually been driving them with a 500 wpc amp, the speakers would have been fine.
You weren't pushing too much power, it was too little.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
This goes to show how little I know about this. Haha. Learning experience. It was a receiver I had in my basement and grabbed before I went back to school. My dad, whom claims to have much more knowledge than me, said it should be fine. Obviously wasn't and I'm paying a big price for it. I'll be getting a new receiver also. Sorry if I've frustrated you, big newbie at this.No, that's not it at all. It's not fault of the speakers, it's the fact that you caused the AVR to send a clipped signal/DC voltage because at that volume level it was being overdriven. That's not to mention your AVR is not even rated to drive a 4 ohm load.
No, it's not a 500 watt amp. It's an AVR, not an amp and it's only rated for 100 wpc, 2 channels driven. Had you actually been driving them with a 500 wpc amp, the speakers would have been fine.
You weren't pushing too much power, it was too little. -
That model of Kenwood AVR was a pos. I bought one for an ex gf back in 1999 I believe. They were about the cheapest DD5.1 avr back then, I think I paid about $275.00 for it , and it sounded like it! Plus I remember how lightweight it was and plastic. It would distort if pushed very much past 10 o clock, think it was rated around 60 watts per channel, maybe. Those poor SDA CRS's deserved better.
-
No worries, we all start at the beginning on the road of audio knowledge.
If you want to be able to play them at concert levels, you need to buy a really good integrated amp or a separate pre amp and amp. Whatever it is, it must be rated to drive 4 ohm loads. Forget AVR's/receivers, they don't have what it takes, period.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Must be the reason it was sitting unused in my basement. Looks like it'll end up on craigslist soon for some other poor soul to deal with!Polkie2009 wrote: »That model of Kenwood AVR was a pos. I bought one for an ex gf back in 1999 I believe. They were about the cheapest DD5.1 avr back then, I think I paid about $275.00 for it , and it sounded like it! Plus I remember how lightweight it was and plastic. It would distort if pushed very much past 10 o clock, think it was rated around 60 watts per channel, maybe. Those poor SDA CRS's deserved better.
Any recommendations on the preamp/amp or integrated amp setup? I'm not sure if this falls under concert levels, I just need them to at the very most be loud enough to overpower a group of about 35people (I have parties in my apartment here and there). Never even thought of looking at anything other than a receiver. You're helping out more than you can imagine.No worries, we all start at the beginning on the road of audio knowledge.
If you want to be able to play them at concert levels, you need to buy a really good integrated amp or a separate pre amp and amp. Whatever it is, it must be rated to drive 4 ohm loads. Forget AVR's/receivers, they don't have what it takes, period. -
I had no idea about the 50% rule. I HATE having to ask dumb questions, but if your AVR doesn't use the 1 to 10 scale, how do you know where the halfway mark is? I think I remember reading that mine tops out at +12dB. I've never looked where the scale starts on mine. They should install a warning light when you get to 50% and a R.I.P. blinking light when you get to 75%.
-
For starters, keep it under -10 on that scale. I'm not so sure you want to sink that kind of coin into them. Drivers....crossovers.....tweeters, your talking a complete rebuild here. This will be some coinage, best rethink that sentimental value thing. Of course unless you have the coin to throw at them, then rock on.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Any recommendations on the preamp/amp or integrated amp setup?
Absolutely, how deep down the rabbit hole do you want to go? In other words, what's your budget?For starters, keep it under -10 on that scale.
I agree.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
For music I keep it between -30 and -20. For home theater -25 to -20. It's in a small room. I bought the speakers used, so I can't speak for the original owner. All I know is that he was using a Denon AVR to power them.
-
Well then, he already did some damage most likely before you got them driving them with a receiver. You doing the same thing didn't help any and just fast tracked the inevitable.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I think you're getting me mixed up with the other guy in this thread.
-
I think you're getting me mixed up with the other guy in this thread.
Your right, I did.....my apologies.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
isarealboy772, tonyb has a point about the potential cost, but as far as I can tell you only need one driver and a tweeter at this time. Before you go any further remove the crossover and check it for any visible damage. A cooked resistor, inductor or blown/leaking cap will be easy to spot.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
My point Jess, even though we don't know about the crossover's condition yet, I'm betting seeing as these were abused fairly well that it's more than likely toast. Now, I don't know if the OP has the skills to do any or all of whats needed either but if he has to farm it out the cost can be up there.
Before he goes ordering woofers, best to check the crossovers first and get a good idea of the costs involved to get these puppies back to spec. Aside from that, we are talking one speaker here when we both know both will need to be redone so double that cost.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
As f-1nut once told me that's called a logarithmic scale (what ever that means I failed algebra about 16x)) and I had my own problems overdriving my avr.I bought a new Yamaha RX-V665 90wpc so I thought .And like I said many times before I wanted to air it out as it were.Well air it out I did, it got so hot it clipped and went into protection mode.Thankfully it came back and after being scolded here for pushing a weak machine the wrong way I learned my lesson .Comfortable listening on a avr for me is -30/-27Many have said this when getting an avr make sure it has pre/outs so you can add an external amp when the time is right.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
For the amp setup, probably under $400, and used equipment for the sake of price vs. quality. I tried hooking up the other speaker and something is clearly wrong with that too... it's only playing sound through one tweeter. About to open both up and check for visible damage too.isarealboy772, tonyb has a point about the potential cost, but as far as I can tell you only need one driver and a tweeter at this time. Before you go any further remove the crossover and check it for any visible damage. A cooked resistor, inductor or blown/leaking cap will be easy to spot.
leftwinger just opened my eyes a bit about the pre/out thing, didn't know what that was until now. This receiver does have one, if that helps at all.
