Sda crs

24

Comments

  • Msabot1
    Msabot1 Posts: 2,098
    edited September 2013
    I believe you will find the caps fried and resistors so discolored you won't be able to tell value! Caps charge up and act like a AC block. Raw current is the only thing that would cause a fire like that. The crossover will smell burned ect...probably will have to replace wiring,pc board..all of it!
  • Jhayman
    Jhayman Posts: 1,548
    edited September 2013
    Holy Crap I did not know that could happen, I mean on youtube I've seen guys purposely blowing subs with a lot of voltage, amperage just to blow them up and they fry and catch fire sometimes..
    But I thought a Reciever had fault protection so that cannot happen the unit would shut off before allowing damage to the speakers unless something was wrong with the unit?
    ATC SCM40's,VTL TL 2.5 Preamp,PSB Stratus Goldi's,McCormack DNA 500,McCormack MAP-1 Preamp,Pro-Ject Xtension 10 TT,Ortofon Cadenza Red/Nordost RedDawn LS Speaker cables, Bryston BDP-2, Bryston BDA-2,PS Audio AC-3 power cables
  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    Just opened them up and everything looks fine on the inside in both at first glance... nothing burnt with the exception of the driver/tweeter. Hopefully that's some good news.
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,414
    edited September 2013
    Just opened them up and everything looks fine on the inside in both at first glance... nothing burnt with the exception of the driver/tweeter. Hopefully that's some good news.

    Looks can be very deceiving... There is no way I would ever plug those speakers into anything after watching them burn without a full and complete rebuild.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited September 2013
    Israelboy,one other safety note.If it is the receiver and most here belive it is the intial culprit cut the cord(unplugged of course) to the smallest nub possible so no one else picks up that receiver and decides to use it .It just might a real hazard.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    How would I know if the crossover is bad? I found a crossover set listed on ebay for these... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-SDA-CRS-Complete-Crossover-Network-Used-Tested-Working-/271252535061?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f27e93715Could be worth it? Plus a new tweeter and driver. I'm looking at about $200 (found some tweeters and drivers on ebay also).
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited September 2013
    This is really bothering me,Tony, Jesse while not being all that versed w/ SDA and CRS in particular aren't these speakers supposed to have either an in line fuse or the poly switch I hear so much about to protect the speakers from frying.It still looks more like a 110v spike than a simple case of over clipping, and if that's the issue I would also toss those speakers wires whatever the brand right out because it was like a lightening strike going through them.Please if I'm wrong just say so but I should know this.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,414
    edited September 2013
    How would I know if the crossover is bad? I found a crossover set listed on ebay for these... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-SDA-CRS-Complete-Crossover-Network-Used-Tested-Working-/271252535061?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f27e93715Could be worth it? Plus a new tweeter and driver. I'm looking at about $200 (found some tweeters and drivers on ebay also).

    I would assume from the damage to the speakers that they would be, just for the purpose of erring on the side of caution. Even though the other speaker did not incur VISIBLE damage, I would treat it as though it also suffered damage, and replace the crossover there as well. The tweeter and drivers on the undamaged speaker may be good, but I would acquire replacements for them as well, just in case.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    DSkip wrote: »
    In this situation, I'd likely part out the good drivers and move on. I'm not as sentimental towards audio gear as I thought I was, though I do get the attachment. If you just aren't ready to let them go, I'd start tearing them both down, taking pictures to report back to the forum, and begin assessing how much its actually going to cost to rebuild. Rebuilds aren't cheap, but you can end up with a speaker that will 'toast' anything else for the $ you will put into it if done right.

    Regardless, neither one would see time in my system without a complete overhaul.
    I'm thinking I will do this. They're useless currently anyway, worth a shot tearing them completely down. Even if it's a project that takes awhile and I funnel money into parts for them here and there, eventually it would be nice to have them working again. I just don't think I'm in a situation to spend a ton of money right now (college student!), and everyone has put it into perspective how much this might cost...
    Israelboy,one other safety note.If it is the receiver and most here belive it is the intial culprit cut the cord(unplugged of course) to the smallest nub possible so no one else picks up that receiver and decides to use it .It just might a real hazard.
    Exactly what my dad told me to do too. I'm thinking I'll do this, if in the end it's decided to be the real culprit.
    I would assume from the damage to the speakers that they would be, just for the purpose of erring on the side of caution. Even though the other speaker did not incur VISIBLE damage, I would treat it as though it also suffered damage, and replace the crossover there as well. The tweeter and drivers on the undamaged speaker may be good, but I would acquire replacements for them as well, just in case.
    I'll think about picking them up before the end of the day when the auction is over. Definitely will replace everything if I do replace things.

    A bit off topic, but how do you all feel about these (http://lansing.craigslist.org/hsh/4015341829.html) as a viable option also? I need some speakers in the meantime. Obviously will have to find a different amp to power these.
  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    DSkip wrote: »
    Go get those M10's. That's a great price if in good condition.

    If you end up wanting something in the 'new' category, I highly recommend these: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG
    Really hope the seller still has them! I'll think about the Pioneers if the Model 10s are gone. I have some Technics bookshelf size speakers currently in my room with my turntable setup, so I was looking for something a bit larger for my living room, but I'll still keep them in mind.
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    edited September 2013
    Those are some old M10's with the desirable Peerless tweeters and at $100 I wouldn't hesitate.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited September 2013
    if in the end it's decided to be the real culprit.

    Well, the real culprit was you trying to drive an ohm load the AVR wasn't designed to handle and the fact you overdrove the AVR by turning the volume up that high.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Well, the real culprit was you trying to drive an ohm load the AVR wasn't designed to handle and the fact you overdrove the AVR by turning the volume up that high.
    I understand that, but people seem to say the receiver is also possibly bad.
  • Polkie2009
    Polkie2009 Posts: 3,834
    edited September 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Well, the real culprit was you trying to drive an ohm load the AVR wasn't designed to handle and the fact you overdrove the AVR by turning the volume up that high.
    +1, I was looking at some reviews on the Kenwood VR-209 and came across a couple with problems about this avr going into protect mode or staying in protect mode, or never working again, it was ruined. The warning was clear, do__ not__ use the Kenwood VR-209 with 4 ohm speakers. Probably best to cut the cord and toss this avr so no one else burns up anything with it.
  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    Polkie2009 wrote: »
    The warning was clear, do__ not__ use the Kenwood VR-209 with 4 ohm speakers. Probably best to cut the cord and toss this avr so no one else burns up anything with it.
    Really wish I had seen that warning before I used it. Ugh. If I do sell it I'm going to be warning the buyer about the risks. I'll be researching diligently before I hook up any audio equipment anymore....
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited September 2013
    I understand that, but people seem to say the receiver is also possibly bad.

    Yes, I agee. Judging by the damage to the speaker(s) I would say the likely hood that your AVR is damaged is extremely high.

    Edit: You cannot sell that AVR without having it checked out by a qualified tech and that's going to cost you more than it's worth.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Yes, I agee. Judging by the damage to the speaker(s) I would say the likely hood that your AVR is damaged is extremely high.

    Edit: You cannot sell that AVR without having it checked out by a qualified tech and that's going to cost you more than it's worth.
    Got it. Well, in the name of all things audio, I'll scrap the thing.
  • Polkie2009
    Polkie2009 Posts: 3,834
    edited September 2013
    I've had to toss a few things over the years too, just for safety sakes. But hey now, on to better things!
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited September 2013
    Question, did the AVR go into protect mode? If so, does it power up now?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Question, did the AVR go into protect mode? If so, does it power up now?
    I don't believe it went into protect mode, there's no indication that it did. Still powers up, but I'm scared to hook up my other speakers to it to see if it still works beyond powering up.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,962
    edited September 2013
    I've got another theory. You said you "brought them out" when listening, does that mean they were in storage ? If so, mice have been know to make nests in speakers being stored. They could have chewed a wire, or because of what you drove them with you overheated a voice coil lighting that nesting material. Crap happens and this wouldn't be the first time either.
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  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    tonyb wrote: »
    I've got another theory. You said you "brought them out" when listening, does that mean they were in storage ? If so, mice have been know to make nests in speakers being stored. They could have chewed a wire, or because of what you drove them with you overheated a voice coil lighting that nesting material. Crap happens and this wouldn't be the first time either.
    They had been sitting in the corner of my basement as long as I can remember. My dad thought that they were broken, and when I initially got them out one of the drivers wasn't working, then one day when I got them out to try and fix them they were working again... It was pretty odd. I don't think mice could've gotten to them we've never had mice in my house, but maybe this other fact can help develop another theory.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,962
    edited September 2013
    Maybe, who knows. If your basement is damp, that too could be a culprit. Many possibilities here now that we know they were stored in a basement. How many years down there ?
    HT SYSTEM-
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  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    We've run a dehumidifier in my basement religiously as long as I can remember, but still have some moisture issues down there. They've been stored down there at least 10 years, at most 18. I can try and get a more exact number from my dad if need be. It had been a long time before they had been used regularly.
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,637
    edited September 2013
    Isarealboy. Here is a story that may help you understand some of my situations i had recently
    ..
    I have some speakers (sda2b) they are rate at 50-500 watts per channel. I had them hooked to a 120 WPC receiver..it WORKED on my big speakers.....i needed some lights fixed on it. So i unhooked the receiver----so temporary i hooked my Marantz receiver up to it. 52 watts (LOL) just to see what it would do----well it is rated for 50-500 watts---- at low volumes it worked ok. At 10:30 on the volume dial it started to clip--why ? Not enough power----now with even my 120+ wpc Yamaha cr2040 at high volumes wasnt enough for these guys----so i ended up buying a Amp at 200wpc----does that mean i can crank it. Well yeah. Sometimes but in these vintage speakers they are old & need updates. So i tend to keep it at around 11:00 on the dial which is plenty high for me & my wallet isnt full so i dont want to damage them. I was young once & learnt. We have all been there to some extent. You will learn on Club Polk alot so i hope you enjoy The forum like i do. Good luck with your search for temporary speakers & have those nice speakers you have looked over completely so they dont cost you a arm n leg. They are worth repairing & if you dont-ship them to me please. LoL :lol:
    ..
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited September 2013
    I don't believe it went into protect mode, there's no indication that it did. Still powers up, but I'm scared to hook up my other speakers to it to see if it still works beyond powering up.

    Ok, it occured to me that I may have jumped to conclusions about your AVR being damaged. Since it still powers up, it may not be damaged. Do you have a pair of really cheap speakers you could try?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited September 2013
    I think we got the entire story now 1. college aged guy wants to throw a party outside.2.Finds dad's old speakers that were left in more than likely a damp basement for years upon years.3. takes said speakers and underpowered avr for a very short test drive 4.
    Said college aged guy(Isrealeboy) either massively over amps his avr w/ wrong load applied until a fire breaks out in one side of his speakers or the avr failed miserably and either shot high DCv or like I think 110v right into that/those speakers.I think we can all agaree that between the ages of 15-30 guys become overly agreesive w/ their tunes and I've never heard of a fire breaking out becaused you pushed your stuff to much...And what about the question I asked that not one person replied on ,the so called poly switches or in line fuses to protect the speakers that some brands do have for this very reason....
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, it occured to me that I may have jumped to conclusions about your AVR being damaged. Since it still powers up, it may not be damaged. Do you have a pair of really cheap speakers you could try?
    Hmm. I should have something around here. I'll give them a shot and report back.
    And what about the question I asked that not one person replied on ,the so called poly switches or in line fuses to protect the speakers that some brands do have for this very reason....
    I was hoping someone would answer your question too. The sentence about guys being overly aggressive with their tunes and never hearing of a fire breaking out makes me think you're learning more towards one of the theories, which one? I actually had the speakers going for a long time, I used to listen to them at my house and then since moving to an apartment we had them playing music/tv almost constantly. Not at 75% volume though (which was, about -20 on the receiver).
  • isarealboy772
    isarealboy772 Posts: 26
    edited September 2013
    There ARE fuses on the back panel of the speakers, whether they're "in line" fuses I have no clue. The fuses on the back are still good and intact though.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,962
    edited September 2013
    Hmmm....well I have 2 scenarios. Given the length of time these speakers sat in your basement, and given that it's damp down there, I'm thinking moisture corroded something inside and when an electrical charge came in by the receiver, poof. Under certain conditions even plain old dust can ignite. Or my mouse scenario. Either way, it's all mute now. Given what we know now, I'd say both speakers need a rebuild and it's up to you to want to spend that much coin on them. Personally, I'd part them out and move on.

    LW, if I'm not mistaken, the poly switches were ment as a tweeter protection device. Most have removed them because they are degrading to the sound. It is not a total speaker protection device, nothing really is as is evident in this thread.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
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    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's