Alternative Modifications
Comments
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Re-read my post. Binding posts are usually copper and gold coated brass. Solid copper, gold or silver would be extrememly expensive. So to recap, they are brass but in the instance of Vampire are copper, silver and gold coated. You don't want cheap "naked" brass.
H9
Gotcha.
And thanks for the suggestions. I can work with these. -
Those could be found in the link I posted.These are solid billit copper, these are on the back of my Aleph 30
http://www.musicdirect.com/p-6796-cardas-ccbp-copper-binding-post-long-ea.aspx
H9
Here's another pair of gold plated COPPER posts. http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgg.htm"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. (As opposed to bronze, an alloy of copper and tin.) 30 percent zinc in 70 percent copper seems to be a common mixture. The 30% zinc alloy has only 28% of the conductivity of pure copper. Even a 5% zinc alloy has only about 60% of the conductivity of pure copper.
http://www.copper.org/applications/industrial/designguide/conductbrass02.html
I'd be hoping the gold plating is nice 'n' thick. Gold is a lesser conductor than pure, clean copper or silver; but it doesn't tarnish. Tarnished copper or silver may be a poorer conductor than gold. -
Soot me a PM and I will send you a bunch of Armacell and several binding posts. The ones I have were stock posts for Sunfire amplifiers and will be more than enough to get the job done for the speakers. The best part is they won't set you back a dime.:cheesygrin:The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
nooshinjohn wrote: »Soot me a PM and I will send you a bunch of Armacell and several binding posts. The ones I have were stock posts for Sunfire amplifiers and will be more than enough to get the job done for the speakers. The best part is they won't set you back a dime.:cheesygrin:
PM sent -
Big thanks to nooshinjohn for hooking me up with some goodies. Thanks again man!
P.S. Send some Cherry 7-up too eh? :razz: -
No problem my friend... I found the Armacell roll and the binding posts. I will get everything boxed up and out tommorow. No can do on the Cherry 7up however, as due to our current administration, anything that tastes good is considered a hazardous substance and international shipment of such materials carries a 5 year prison term or a $250,000 fine.:cheesygrin:The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Over the weekend I think I read almost every thread here regarding information on modding the TL series speakers. I have to say that there is a wealth of knowledge here regarding these. From which brand of caps to use to how much of what type of sound absorption you apply to the cabinets. Anyways, there are a couple issues and I'm looking for some feedback.
1. Hurricane nuts, nothing else. You don't need a template, just drill out the original holes. It's not the rocket science some make it out to be.
2. You don't need to change the gaskets unless the originals are damaged. Period.
3. No opinion.
4. Cardas CCGR are my choice. They separate, just remove them from the plastic mounting block. However, you will have to modify the holes to accommodate the squared off shoulders of the posts. That requires some skill and patience.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Tarnished copper or silver may be a poorer conductor than gold.
While tarnished copper does indeed become a poor conductor, the conductivity of silver is unaffected by tarnish.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
1. Hurricane nuts, nothing else. You don't need a template, just drill out the original holes. It's not the rocket science some make it out to be.
2. You don't need to change the gaskets unless the originals are damaged. Period.
3. No opinion.
4. Cardas CCGR are my choice. They separate, just remove them from the plastic mounting block. However, you will have to modify the holes to accommodate the squared off shoulders of the posts. That requires some skill and patience.
It's looking like that's the route I'm going. Seems PE is the best place to get them. Can't find anything like this at my hardware stores. What size is suitable? #8-32? New screws are easy to buy...
Both my tweeter gaskets were in two when I pulled all the drivers after obtaining them (not originals). Why not just refresh everything at the same time? The cost is minimal and it seems well raved around here. Learn by experience I suppose.
I see many pictures of posts on blocks which make them look as if they can't be separated. It's good to know this CAN be done. Modifying the terminal cup is not over challenging enough where I feel intimidated by being patient with performing this or any mod I attempt. -
While the conductivity of silver is unaffected by tarnish.
Learn something new everyday. I sure would of thought it would make a difference. I've had some pretty tarnished silver jewelry and that is one reason i have shied away from silver that was exposed in any way for audio. -
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. (As opposed to bronze, an alloy of copper and tin.) 30 percent zinc in 70 percent copper seems to be a common mixture. The 30% zinc alloy has only 28% of the conductivity of pure copper. Even a 5% zinc alloy has only about 60% of the conductivity of pure copper.
http://www.copper.org/applications/industrial/designguide/conductbrass02.html
I'd be hoping the gold plating is nice 'n' thick. Gold is a lesser conductor than pure, clean copper or silver; but it doesn't tarnish. Tarnished copper or silver may be a poorer conductor than gold.
actually oxidized silver is an awesome conductor. We did some testing back in my car audio days with a manufacturer that we worked with on conductivity of different materials. This was one of the highest.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
It's looking like that's the route I'm going. Seems PE is the best place to get them. Can't find anything like this at my hardware stores. What size is suitable? #8-32? New screws are easy to buy...
Yes, 8-32 cap screwsBoth my tweeter gaskets were in two when I pulled all the drivers after obtaining them (not originals). Why not just refresh everything at the same time? The cost is minimal and it seems well raved around here. Learn by experience I suppose.
Like I said, if damaged they should be replaced otherwise it isn't needed.I see many pictures of posts on blocks which make them look as if they can't be separated. It's good to know this CAN be done. Modifying the terminal cup is not over challenging enough where I feel intimidated by being patient with performing this or any mod I attempt.
Yeah, I've seen them too. It takes more effort to mount them without the blocks. Good deal, you should be fine.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Binding Posts:
Since we are talking about the SDA-SRS TL line of speakers (a very wise choice of speakers) use Cardas CCGR for the Highs, Vampire BP-Hex-CB or the Cardas CCGRs for the lows. Think of it this way: You are going to do this upgrade only ONCE to your speakers!!! The price is well worth the results. You could wait until Sonic Craft offers a 20% sale on their line of products they carry.
Brass, Nickel, or Tin connectors is a cardinal sin in my system.
And if you go for the dreadnought project, you will require one addtional set of binding posts on the speakers and two sets for the dreadnought cabinets and two pairs of speaker wire.
Hey - it could be worse - we could suggest WBT connectors. :cheesygrin:Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
I use mortite to seal my cabinets. It works wonders!!!
Like others have said regarding the additional dampening - with whatever damping you decide to use in your speakers - do not place any damping in the PR section.
I use Black Hole 5 in my speakers. You will require at least two sheets of BH5 if you decide to go that route.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
I agree, the Sunfire lugs you're going to receive are made of brass, and brass sounds like ****.PolkMaster1 wrote: »Binding Posts:
Since we are talking about the SDA-SRS TL line of speakers (a very wise choice of speakers) use Cardas CCGR for the Highs, Vampire BP-Hex-CB or the Cardas CCGRs for the lows. Think of it this way: You are going to do this upgrade only ONCE to your speakers!!! The price is well worth the results. You could wait until Sonic Craft offers a 20% sale on their line of products they carry.
Brass, Nickel, or Tin connectors is a cardinal sin in my system.
And if you go for the dreadnought project, you will require one addtional set of binding posts on the speakers and two sets for the dreadnought cabinets and two pairs of speaker wire.
Hey - it could be worse - we could suggest WBT connectors. :cheesygrin:
What's wrong with WBT, that's all I have on my amps. :razz:"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Hurricane nuts as stated above and yes 8-32, but since your just starting see if you can use 10-32 hurricane nuts for the passives. I drilled out my passive rings and tapped them to a 10-32 using the 10-32 BHCS's worked better due to the head being a bit bigger for the slots in the passives.
Cardas binding post's are my favorite to use, armacell is the $hit IMO works great!! Mortite $ucks, after trying armacell I will never use it again..
I added a piece of delrin to the back of my binding post cups to give it some rigidity for the new binding post's.
Not sure if you have a set of gimpods crossover boards but if you can get a set it helps a bunch when doing the upgrades..
Good luck and have fun... -
Toolfan66 wrote:Hurricane nuts as stated above and yes 8-32, but since your just starting see if you can use 10-32 hurricane nuts for the passives. I drilled out my passive rings and tapped them to a 10-32 using the 10-32 BHCS's worked better due to the head being a bit bigger for the slots in the passives.
Interesting. I'll look into that.Toolfan66 wrote:Not sure if you have a set of gimpods crossover boards but if you can get a set it helps a bunch when doing the upgrades..
I'm on the list for a set of new ones. Crossover upgrades won't be for a little bit yet. Will certainly be the final upgrade. -
PM me if the metal templates for Larry's rings will help, I doubt I'll ever need them again. Good to see another set of 2B's getting "the treatment"...a move you won't regret!Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
PM me if the metal templates for Larry's rings will help, I doubt I'll ever need them again. Good to see another set of 2B's getting "the treatment"...a move you won't regret!
Thanks for the offer but I don't think it's necessary.
Also, they're 3.1TL's, not 2B's :razz: -
oops! Good luck with the project.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
I just finished reworking all of my Polks with Dynamat, Armacell, and Hurricane nuts. The Armacell can be found at Home Depot in 10' rolls, is 3/8" wide X 3/16" thick, and made by FrostKing. The SKU # is 7757801220. It can also be found at any good Hardware Store. The 8-32 Hurrican Nuts were purchased from Parts Express, and I located some excellent quality, black oxide SS machine screws on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330611643249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 which are a dead ringer for the original sheetmetal screws Polk used. Installing the Hurricane Nuts is not particularly difficult. No template is needed, use the original holes as your guide. You'll need a 13/64ths drill bit, and some patience. Lay the cabinet on it's back, perfectly level, so you can work from above. Make sure you drill the holes plumb, you don't want the holes skewed. My drill has a leveling bubble on the end, so it was easy. To set the Hurricane Nuts, I used one of the new machine screws, with a 3/8" or 1/2" washer under the screw head. The washer prevents the screw head from sinking into the soft MDF or Particle board. Hold the hurricane nut from below, thread the screw and washer by hand, then with a phillips bit on your drill, SLOWLY tighten it till the Hurricane Nut snugs up from the bottom, and the washer just starts to compress the wood. Now back-out the screw and move on to the next.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Has anybody used either butyl rubber sheets to make gaskets or butyl rubber tape to replace gaskets on drivers in SDA SRS1.2s?Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One. -
I wouldn't use butyl rubber as it will offer too much resistance to compression. Armacell (adhesive backed foam) available at Home Depot works great.
If that's not available, rope caulk (mortite is one brand) works well in my experience."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Drumminman, thank you. From what others have said about Mortite, I think I'll avoid it. However, Armacell sounds like it is relatively easy to apply and does the job well. I had read on another forum (can't remember which one because I ended up there by "accident") a post by a speaker builder/designer who said he preferred using butyl rubber. That is what prompted my inquiry. Thanks, again.Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One. -
From my post above......2. You don't need to change the gaskets unless the originals are damaged. Period.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I would definitely recommend Armacell and hurricane nuts. I recently tried my hand at upgrading a pair of 5B speakers and had great success using those products based on the input from this board. Good luck!
-
Finut,
Got it!
Thanks.Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One. -
I recommend play dough for speaker sealant...
JK!- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
To change the subject from speaker gaskets to applying Dynamat Xtreme on drivers:
Having just applied Dynamat to the first five of sixteen drivers, I offer a couple of time-saving tips to others who might undertake this process:
First, when you buy the Dynamat, buy flat sheets, not those that have been rolled or folded. Much time is spent flattening the wrinkles and ridges in the folded sheets.
Second, a small round dowel rod, round pencil, or simple Bic ballpoint pen serves as a great "rolling pin" to flatten the Dynamat on the drivers.
Not technical, but I hope it helps others.Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One.
