Will Polk RTI A7 Floor Standers output good sound when paired with Denon 1611 5.1 AVR
Comments
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I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs.jeremymarcinko wrote: »But as in all things your perception is your reality.
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Once again Ravioli proves he has no grasp of the concepts in audio, zero, nada, zilch.
H9
Audio.. may be.. but when it come to power I sure as hell know more than you, mr 5-wats-distorted-signal-is-gona-fry-my-tweeters. You are quite comic in your utter arrogance and confidence of your silly opinions, always trying to close out discussions as if the supreme court has spoken. Why anyone has any respect for your opinions is beyond me since you lack the understanding of basic power principles.I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs.jeremymarcinko wrote: »But as in all things your perception is your reality. -
I am done in this one.
As always I will let you have the last word. I said what I wanted and what you think is really of no importance to me and I refuse to drain my energy with know-it-all old farts any more.I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs.jeremymarcinko wrote: »But as in all things your perception is your reality. -
Have to say, since joining the forum, one of my favorite things to do is just sit back and watch the bloodbaths. :cheesygrin:TV - LG 42" LED
Receiver - Pioneer VSX-521
Front speakers - Polk Monitor 40's Series II
Center - Polk Monitor CS1 Series II
Surround - Polk Audio OWM3
Subwoofer - JBL L8400P
"I was born with music inside me. Music was one of my parts. Like my ribs, my kidneys, my liver, my heart. Like my blood. It was a force already within me when I arrived on the scene. It was a necessity for me-like food or water."
~Ray Charles~ -
Just like herpes.. never really goes away.
Look man, you're probably a pretty cool guy in certain circles, I don't know, but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt.
But here, and this principle applies to everyone including me and newest and oldest member on the forum, humility is the strongest benefit.
I certainly don't know it all, I'll even admit I'm only 2 years in to this game, or down the rabbit hole if you will, but when you start taking sides against the masses, guys with years and years of experience, you've got to take a step back and rethink your approach, but then again, we're talking about humility here.
If you allow yourself to be taught, or re-taught in some areas, you can then start to earn some respect instead of the opposite.
I'm just saying, humility is the word here, you can catch it or just let it go and continue on thinking everyone is against you and chances are, that thought is in pure vain.Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
Holy hell! WTF happened to this thread?
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My apologies to the OP for continued de-railment of his thread.
I took a look at the Marantz 5006 spec sheet. I normally don't bother but because we're talking about a higher end receiver, up there w/Rotel* and the like, I felt the need to investigate.
http://us.marantz.com/DocumentMaster/US/SR5006_Home_Theater_Receiver.pdf
If I read it correctly it says "100 watts into 6 or 8 ohms" and it lists each channel as doing such.
No mention of a 4 ohm* rating - important when driving 'A7s.
* Rotel receivers have 4 ohm ratings & usually exceed their specs "all channels driven" unlike most receivers
I recently had an epiphany on passive bi-amping - l'll save for another post.
the "other" TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Guys please suggest....shall i biamp rtia7 with my marantz 5006 or not? would biamping cause any danger to speaker?
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Guys please suggest....shall i biamp rtia7 with my marantz 5006 or not? would biamping cause any danger to speaker?
It will not be dangerous to "bi-amp" but it will do almost nothing. I've played with it on my Denon and it really did nothing. I noticed better separation from mids to lows, but I found that had more to do with removing the brass jumpers that anything else.
I would either buy bi-wire speaker cables or make your own quality wire jumpers to replace the stock ones. -
I have SR5006 and I am biamping the A7s. They sound really good. Also, if you damaged your speaker with biamping I am pretty sure you can successfully sue Marantz for integrating a feature that is damaging to speakers. The manual explains the benefits of biamping and how to do it. You will Love the A7s with that avr.I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs.jeremymarcinko wrote: »But as in all things your perception is your reality.
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I am pretty sure you can successfully sue Marantz for integrating a feature that is damaging to speakers. .
Guess they better do away with that pesky volume knob too then.
It's not the feature, it's the user error that damages speakers.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
When it comes to bi-amping I think receiver design, particularly the power supply and power distribution, has a lot to do with whether or not it makes any diffrence.
I had previously bi-amped my m70s using my marantz sr7002, which made a noteable, but not an overwhelming difference. I also tried bi-amping with the onkyo 608... which resulted in no difference in sound what so ever. I suspect the design of the receiver and how it shares and distributes power amongst the channels is the reason for the difference in the results between the receivers. Onkyo is a poser, Marantz actually has funtional bi-amping capabilities.
So to wrap it up, all of you that scream bi-amping doesn't work are running Onkyo's... therefore your experience is very onesided and do not apply to all products out there. Do your own tests, then come tell a FULL story, and don't discredit poeple who have done their own homework if you don't know any better
Status quo is a dangerous thing... this is how presidents like Bush and possibly Obama get re-elected. LOL! :razz:Living Room 7.1 HT Rig:
M70 | CS2 | M60 | Atrium5 - Surr. | SUB - Emotiva ULTRA12 + Tara Labs sub cable | Pioneer Elite VSX-52 | Parasound HCAs 1000A | Sony BDP-S790 | Belkin PureAV PF60 | MIT Exp2 Wires
Bedroom 5.0 HT Rig (Music/Movies/Gaming) :
LSi9 | LsiC | Lsi/fx | Marantz SR7002 | NAD T955 | Sony BDP-S360 | Belkin PureAV PF30 | AQ Blue Racer II ICs & AQ Type 4 wires | PS3 -
I don't wish to take sides either, because this has truned into a bickering and not a technical discussion. I am merely focusing on the issue at hand (bi-amping) and contributing what I learned through my own personal experience.Living Room 7.1 HT Rig:
M70 | CS2 | M60 | Atrium5 - Surr. | SUB - Emotiva ULTRA12 + Tara Labs sub cable | Pioneer Elite VSX-52 | Parasound HCAs 1000A | Sony BDP-S790 | Belkin PureAV PF60 | MIT Exp2 Wires
Bedroom 5.0 HT Rig (Music/Movies/Gaming) :
LSi9 | LsiC | Lsi/fx | Marantz SR7002 | NAD T955 | Sony BDP-S360 | Belkin PureAV PF30 | AQ Blue Racer II ICs & AQ Type 4 wires | PS3 -
As far as the RTi A7 speakers are concerned ...
I plan on useing an Onkyo TX-8050 Network Stereo Reciever for just 2-channel audio only. I am also planning on using a pair of Polk RTi A7 floorstanders for front speakers, but also a pair of Polk RTi A3 bookshelf speakers for the rears. (I just think rear speakers make the 2-channel audio system sound more "open" / "spatial")
Since the TX-8050 reciever is only rated at only 80 w/ch @ 8 ohms, I thought I would just use it for it's pre-amp section and it's networking abilities ... With that said, I bought a pair of Onkyo M-282 power amps. These are each rated at 100 w/ch @ 8 ohms. In my mind, this should give me more than double the power of the TX-8050 since I am using one of the M-282 power amps to drive just the front speakers, and another 100 w/ch M-282 amp to drive the rear speakers.
The Onkyo TX-8050 does have a pre-out, so it works great with the separate power amps.
But now I hear that the pre-amp section of the Onkyo TX-8050 is not of really great quality. I am worried that this will effect the overall sound of the 2-channel music I am intending on playing with this setup. I just hope this is not the case. I guess I will find out.
I also bought an Onkyo C-7030 CD player to include in this system.
I know the OP is talking about a HT system, and not 2-channel audio, but as others here have said, as long as he gets a reciever that has pre-outs, he might think about a couple of power amps to use in his system if he feels his reciever is a little underpowered for his speakers.
The nice thing about the Onkyo M-282 power amps is the price ... They can be had for as little as $199 with free shipping on Amazon. They have had good reviews all over the internet, so that's good.
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-M-282-2-Channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B000069E2V2-Channel Audio
Onkyo ... A-9050 . . .Integrated Amp. (Power Amp Section not Used)
Onkyo ... M-282 . ... Power Amps .(Pair)
Onkyo ... C-7030 . _.CD Player
Polk . . *. RTi A7 - ....Front Speakers
Polk . . *. RTi A3 - ....Rear Speakers -
...look at the Marantz 5006 spec sheet.
No mention of a 4 ohm rating - important when driving 'A7s.
the "other" TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
...look at the Marantz 5006 spec sheet.
No mention of a 4 ohm rating - important when driving 'A7s.
the "other" Tony
Those amps will only sound as good as what drives them.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
I finally bought the Marantz 5006 yesterday. Unboxed it, plugged the wires & started on the default settings & played all my stuff. I must say that i am quite quite happy with the purchase & thanks all for helping me with your suggestions.
The Marantz 5006 drives the polks quite easy & no where i feel it was having tough time to drive them. They drove them with ease & the RTI's are really punchy & they sound really powerful. in fact the marantz has put more bass on my polk 6750 surround satellites as well. I don't feel to bi amp the rti's for more power as of now. The depth is quite quite good & they go very loud at higher volumes & i am really pleased. I played some movies & no point of disappointment anywhere. Forget about the main room, it rattles the windows of my 2 other rooms as well (my JBL es250pw sub is also the culprit for it) if i turn the volume very high, something will surely crack
Today i installed 2 more speakers as front heights & made the setup to 7.2 & it was WOW. The front heights rains the vocals & effects pretty good
Now next hunt is for center speaker but mostly will go with the rti csi a6 & probably get them in next month -
Congrats, enjoy your new set up!
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Turbota: 100WPC into 8 ohms is good. Do they have a 6, or better still, a 4 ohm rating?
Those amps will only sound as good as what drives them.
Onkyo M-282: The specs say .... 2 x 125 watts/channel into 6 ohm
No 4 ohm specs2-Channel Audio
Onkyo ... A-9050 . . .Integrated Amp. (Power Amp Section not Used)
Onkyo ... M-282 . ... Power Amps .(Pair)
Onkyo ... C-7030 . _.CD Player
Polk . . *. RTi A7 - ....Front Speakers
Polk . . *. RTi A3 - ....Rear Speakers