End Caps Done!

2

Comments

  • chandler9a
    chandler9a Posts: 878
    edited February 2012
    I'd be interested in the caps for 1C's as well. Very nice work, I just had my first experience with curly maple last night. I couldn't take my eyes off it after the first coat went on, beautiful stuff!

    Might be interested in caps for 2.3's as well.
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  • Bubinga99
    Bubinga99 Posts: 283
    edited February 2012
    gdb wrote: »
    Joinery

    Care to elaborate? Musky1963 is just using a solid rectangular slab with no joinery, and I think he's referring to the fact that most of the time, all you see of the caps are the edges (for the taller SDA's anyway) so the "eyes" wouldn't have the visual impact they'd have for a larger visible surface.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited February 2012
    Joinery techniques can be used to edge the slab with an "eye- rich" piece of wood or, you could just content yourself with the knowing that the eyes are nicely visible on the top surface. I, personally, would edge with solid wood some MDF that was veneered rather than using slab wood but, that's just me and my preferences. For me it's more important how speakers sound, not their looks.
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  • marcgd1959
    marcgd1959 Posts: 11
    edited February 2012
    hi, i'm the person in the other thread who had his sda 1C's get manhandled by ups and getting them roughed up pretty badly. i see by this thread that the top and bottom can be replaced. i am interested in this as mine are now pretty rough. i thought i might ask as a sda novice who has been looking to own a pair of these for about 27 years . . . how does one remove the top and bottom wood piece without destroying the rest of the speaker itself?
    thanks ahead of time.:neutral:
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited February 2012
    marcgd1959 wrote: »
    hi, i'm the person in the other thread who had his sda 1C's get manhandled by ups and getting them roughed up pretty badly. i see by this thread that the top and bottom can be replaced. i am interested in this as mine are now pretty rough. i thought i might ask as a sda novice who has been looking to own a pair of these for about 27 years . . . how does one remove the top and bottom wood piece without destroying the rest of the speaker itself?
    thanks ahead of time.:neutral:

    Both the top and bottom caps on the 1C's are held onto the cabinet by glue and long staples, unlike the caps on the bigger SDA's that are bolted on. I would suggest a thin pry bar and a rubber mallet to remove them. Once you get the caps "started" they will come off pretty easily. I have used a 2x4 block of wood on edge and a hammer and tapped on the leading edge of the caps to get them "started" also.

    I use a constuction grade of glue (Liquid Nails) to replace the caps and forgot the staples. Let them dry for 24 hours before moving.
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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited February 2012
    The caps are 1" thick or VERY close. Sal, don't worry, you aren't in the back of the bus :lol:
    Jeff
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  • Bubinga99
    Bubinga99 Posts: 283
    edited February 2012
    Musky, did you spend any time considering thicker caps? To my eye, the 1" caps look disproportionately thin (on the 2.3TL's anyway). I did a quickie mock-up a couple years back (stacked up layers of 1/8 and 1/4 mdf) and if my memory serves, I think I decided 1-1/4" thick was the sweet spot for the 2.3TL's, with 1-1/2" looking disproportionate in the other direction. Inch-and-a-half might work for the larger 1.2's though. Anyways, just wondering if you considered thicker caps and what you (or anyone else for that matter) concluded.
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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited February 2012
    Yeah, you can put me down for a set. Those are phenomenal.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
    Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • Bubinga99
    Bubinga99 Posts: 283
    edited February 2012
    Mike Reeter wrote: »
    Both the top and bottom caps on the 1C's are held onto the cabinet by glue and long staples, unlike the caps on the bigger SDA's that are bolted on.

    I wouldn't glue the caps on if you're replacing them with solid wood caps. You may get lucky and they may not split/crack over time, but why tempt fate? It's easy enough to just install 4 hanger bolts in the cap like the larger SDA's and drill slightly elongated holes in the cabinet (elongated in the cross grain direction relative to the grain on the solid cap). Plus they are easier to remove in the future.
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited February 2012
    Bubinga99 wrote: »
    I wouldn't glue the caps on if you're replacing them with solid wood caps. You may get lucky and they may not split/crack over time, but why tempt fate? It's easy enough to just install 4 hanger bolts in the cap like the larger SDA's and drill slightly elongated holes in the cabinet (elongated in the cross grain direction relative to the grain on the solid cap). Plus they are easier to remove in the future.

    Sounds like a plan to me.
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  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited February 2012
    Recieved my end caps from Jeff (musky1963). I am going to install them on Wednesday. I will also post some pictures after they are installed.

    Greg

    End caps for 2.3TL 068.JPG
    End caps for 2.3TL 070.JPG
    End caps for 2.3TL 076.JPG
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,294
    edited February 2012
    Beautiful!!!
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
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  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited February 2012
    Did you order some Larry? Have you installed them if you did?
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,294
    edited February 2012
    I'm on the list..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited February 2012
    Glad you got them okay :cool: . I have another set done, so if you want them(Larry), please shoot me a pm. Jeff
    Jeff
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,294
    edited February 2012
    PM me price and info..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,645
    edited February 2012
    Bubinga99 wrote: »
    Musky1963 is just using a solid rectangular slab with no joinery,

    He's joining boards together to make the slabs.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited February 2012
    Using several boards or even ripping a single wide one into a few boards, then regluing them back together is better than using just a single wide board. It relieves the stress in wood and less chance of warping.
    Jeff
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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited February 2012
    Also, I wouldn't consider gluing/ironing on veneer over mdf "joinery". Anyways, I have furniture that is pretty long in the tooth and rarely have I had any issues.
    Jeff
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,645
    edited February 2012
    I agree, was just pointing out to Bubinga99 that you are using joinery.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited February 2012
    I have a moisture meter that I use when buying. You can get kiln dried wood at 8% and if the humidity is higher, which it always is here, it will even out in the low teens or 11-12%. Winter is actually drier in humidity. I rarely buy kiln-dried stock as I prefer air-dried/stickered wood. Rule of thumb is it takes about 1 year for every inch of thickness. ie: oak is full of water and weighs a ton when fresh cut. Air-dried maple is pretty stable after time and I think it has better color. BTW, the thick stock that I have(like the table I made you) has been air-dried for atleast 20 years :eek: .
    Jeff
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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited February 2012
    Toolfan66, I sent you a pm early this am.
    Jeff
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,294
    edited February 2012
    musky1963 wrote: »
    Toolfan66, I sent you a pm early this am.

    I got it, have been at work and try not to post during that time. The 1.2tl's have a raidus on all four corners not squared on the back side like the ones Greg received. I am asuming that the caps are the same size though..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited February 2012
    Can I use the same caps and just make the same radius on the back corners perhaps?
    Jeff
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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited March 2012
    Greg, did you get them put on yet?
    Jeff
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  • vcwatkins
    vcwatkins Posts: 1,993
    edited March 2012
    Could you PM me price and info on SRS2's?
    b]Beach Audio[/b]: Rega RP6 (mods) - AT33PTG/II - Parks Budgie SUT - PSAudio NPC * Eversolo DMP-A6 * Topping D90iii * Joule-Electra LA-100 mkIII * Pass Aleph 30 * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 2.3tl (mods) * PSAudio PPP3
    Beach Study: Pro-Ject Stream Box S2 Ultra & Pre Box S2 * Pass ACA * DH Labs SS Q10 * Brines Folded ML-TQWT RS 40-1354 * PSA Dectet
    Beach Master: WiiM Pro * Dayens Menuetto * Zu Libtec * Dynaudio Audience 50
    Beach Den: Bluesound Powernode 2i * DH Labs SS Q10 * Zu Omen DWII * Richard Gray RGPC
    Town Study: WiiM Pro * Chord Qute (Pardo) * Elekit TU-8600 * MIT S3 * Revel M22 * Beyer DT-990 * Shunyata Hydra 2
    Town Den: Music Hall mm5.1se - Denon DL-103r - Jolida JD9ii (mods) * WiiM Pro * Cary xCiter * Rogue 99 Magnum * Schiit Aegir * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 1.2tl (mods) * Dectet * Bottlehead Crack - Senn 600
    Town Porch: WiiM Pro Plus * Sunfire Sig II * Canare 4S11 * Magnepan 1.6 * Dectet
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  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited March 2012
    Well Musky, if you were on economic hard times, Club Polk has just solved that problem....LOL. Nice work man!
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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  • musky1963
    musky1963 Posts: 275
    edited March 2012
    LOL, alot of tire kickers. Actually, only Greg has purchased some caps as of yet :redface:
    Jeff
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  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited March 2012
    I'll get the 1C to you.My 2.3tl's look good so no need to screw with them yet.The 1C's need love first.
    I'm all in though so hang in there musky man!:wink:
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
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  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited March 2012
    musky1963 wrote: »
    Greg, did you get them put on yet?

    I only have the top of the left so far. I've been busy working on one of my SACD players as well. Sorry it's taking so long. One thing is that the holes you drilled into the caps are not precisely lined up with the original holes. I still got the cap on, but barely.

    Greg
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter