SDA-SRS 1.2tl Monoblock Suggestions
Comments
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I am only 30 years old
You are lucky and very unique - most 30 year olds have never heard Polk SDA speakers let alone know about it. Even if they had the opportunity to hear such speakers, most, unfortunately, would not care since audio no longer considered a dominant factor as it once did going into the 80s.
Most of us here would be interested in your story on how you got into the SDA realm.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
PolkMaster1 wrote: »Most of us here would be interested in your story on how you got into the SDA realm.
My father was stationed in Germany in the 70's and picked up a Sansui QRX-777 and a pair of SP-3500 speakers. In the 90's he adopted the new dolby digital style receivers and as such I was given the Sansui. I really liked the way it sounded.
My father passed away in 1997 and was living on the other side of the country at the time - the woman he was living with basically absconded with everything of value that he owned. Because of this, the Sansui was the only real physical reminder of my father that I was left.
I went away to college and graduated - found an apartment and brought the Sansui to use as my main setup. I wanted to take good care of it - make sure it lasted a lifetime. I started researching on the internet around 2006 and found the niche community of vintage audio enthusiasts - particularly AudioKarma.org. I quickly realized the QRX-777 was a rare and desirable receiver. This even furthered my interest in getting it 'restored' as I learned that was the norm for units of its vintage that you want to keep working.
I found a guy 'QuadBob' in California that offered to restore my QRX-777 for a whopping $1000. I didn't have this kind of cash - but I had taken several years of electronics classes in High School and was comfortable enough with a soldering iron that I decided to 'pop the hood' and take a look at the QRX-777 myself. I spent countless hours pouring over threads and websites over the course of the next few years. During this, I acquired quite a collection of notable pieces of vintage gear. Basically any TOTL solid state amp/preamp from the 70's. I restored each one, progressively more intimately as my knowledge and experience grew. When I would tire of one, I would sell it on eBay (http://myworld.ebay.com/robledrew) and use the funds to get the next object of desire.
Similarly I started doing this with speakers. I created my Polk forums account after getting a rare pair of Polks from craigslist. I forget the model - 3a? I had read about the Polk SDA speakers and was blown away at the photos of Mr. Polk resting his arms on the huge monolithic towers. I was enamored. I found myself returning to http://www.polksda.com/ over and over to look at the different models. I tried the Monitor 10, the Monitor 11, but always gravitated towards what was considered TOTL.
A few years ago I found a pair of 1.2tl on Craigslist in Northern NJ, so I rented a U-Haul and picked them up. Because of the aforementioned addiction to restoring/tweaking/upgrading, I started down that path on them too.
One child (and one on the way) later, I have basically abandoned my hobby of repairing, restoring, and selling amplifiers. I have a few stacks around the house and office that are the ones that have 'made it' so to speak - the sets I like more than any of the dozens of others that I had restored and auditioned.
Perhaps one day when I am wealthy enough I will try out some big Infinities - until then, these Polks should suffice!
I look forward to reading about the upgrades and tweaks everyone here tries - and the experience they offer.
Edit - Here are some pics from a Facebook Gallery of units I have restored: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=97283&id=593496198&l=e39ab0dfbf
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
You can always tie the neg terminals together on the adcom 565s to get you by till you get or build a Dreadknought.SDA-2BTL with custom IC
Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
Harman Kardon T-55c TT
DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre -
Here are some pics from a Facebook Gallery of units I have restored: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=97283&id=593496198&l=e39ab0dfbf
Thanks for sharing your experience. It was well worth the read. I also checked out your facebook page. Very impressive set of components you have. It just goes to show that the vintage gear looks more impressive and unique compared to todays current looks of gear. Did you modify all of the components that you posted in facebook? If so, did you restore it to its factory specs, or did you modify and improve each component with better parts?
Makes me wish I took electrical engineering classes in high school. I am still trying to figure out how to make a logic input (74HC32, etc) work with a pushbutton and figure how to make it logic high after pushing a button, or stay at logic low, and how to use logic chips with 74HC4511s. Perhaps I better start cracking on them breadboards..Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
PolkMaster1 wrote: »Did you modify all of the components that you posted in facebook? If so, did you restore it to its factory specs, or did you modify and improve each component with better parts?
Each component in the Facebook gallery was 'restored' with the exception of the Magnepans and Dynaco A25's. Those I didn't hold on to long enough to attempt anything with. The Dynacos already had new Seas tweeters in them when I bought them.
The amps, however, did all get restored/upgraded. Across the board they bench tested at a higher output in to my 8 ohm dummy loads than advertised. Whether or not this was the 'norm' or due to the restoration is up for interpretation. My feelings on the matter is that the old amps were "underpromised and overdelivered" and would have surpassed factory specs even when new.
I did make choice upgrades in several units and only used the highest quality parts available. Many times I bypassed or replaced electrolytic caps with polypropylene caps, replaced old diodes with faster recovery versions, increased capacity and bypassed the ripple filters, and occasionally used beefier transistors in power supplies and driver boards. The tuners typically incurred more involved tweaks such as removing bulans, hard-wiring north American de-emphasis, adding filters, upgrading op-amps, that sort of stuff.
I can say that the upgrades did not so much effect the sonic signature of the units as increase longevity and 'reset the clock' to how they must have sounded fresh off the assembly line. It would be a step backwards to change the way they sounded originally in my opinion - I primarily just wanted to keep them running another 30 years and tighten up any already decent specs like THD and WPC.
It was a very fun and fulfilling hobby but my family life kind of prevents it these days. One day (18 years from now
) I may get back in to it!
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
Larry's rings for the passive radiator and 6.5" drivers arrived today. I also placed an order for an 18"x32" sheet of Dynamat Extreme - I hope that is enough. I threw Mortite in the shopping cart as well - although from the way it sounds I might not be using it.
Do you guys use Larry's tweeter brackets too - or something else? I was under the impression that they would be arriving along with the "rings" but I am in no way disappointed with the purchase regardless.
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
Larry did a series of runs with his rings and tweeter brackets. Those who got the earlier runs got the rings with the tweeter brackets and was very pleased with the results. Larry did not make any tweeter brackets on this run, but he mentioned to me that he would when he gets some more time.
I have the rings which I purchased on this run, but when Larry makes more brackets for the tweets, I will be purchasing it.
Trust me, you wont go wrong with this. Glad to hear you got the Dynamat Extreme and Mortite. I applied the mortite and Dynamat Extreme which made a difference for the better last year. I applied the rings this year without removing the mortite. I dont think i heard a sonic difference, but that is mainly due to not getting enough time on the speakers as I used to, so I may have forgot how it sounded before to hear the A-B comparison. Still, I am glad I applied Larrys rings and I still plan to get the brackets.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
Each component in the Facebook gallery was 'restored' with the exception of the Magnepans and Dynaco A25's. Those I didn't hold on to long enough to attempt anything with. The Dynacos already had new Seas tweeters in them when I bought them.
The amps, however, did all get restored/upgraded. Across the board they bench tested at a higher output in to my 8 ohm dummy loads than advertised. Whether or not this was the 'norm' or due to the restoration is up for interpretation. My feelings on the matter is that the old amps were "underpromised and overdelivered" and would have surpassed factory specs even when new.
WOW!!! Thats alot of upgrading!!! Want to upgrade my amps with those choice parts you used? Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
I also placed an order for an 18"x32" sheet of Dynamat Extreme - I hope that is enough.
That should be enough. And hold on to the mortite, some (few) recommend using it with the rings, some dont. Since I applied the mortite before Larrys rings came into existence (and the amount of time it took to do it), I am in the camp that it cant hurt to keep it in there with the rings.
Take your pick, and good luck with the project.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
PolkMaster1 wrote: »WOW!!! Thats alot of upgrading!!! Want to upgrade my amps with those choice parts you used?
If I wasn't in the process of babyproofing my basement/workshop I would probably take you up on that. But for now, I think these 1.2tl upgrades are going to be the last of my 'projects' that don't involve my family.
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
You could always sell the family and keep the audio gear and your hobby.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
With these rings... do you have to remove the current threaded hardware and use the existing holes, or do you use the template to drill all new holes?
I haven't even opened my speakers up yet, just trying to get the big picture before I do anything stupid.
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
With these rings... do you have to remove the current threaded hardware and use the existing holes, or do you use the template to drill all new holes?
Remove the threaded hardware with an allen (hexagon) wrench. Also have a drill handy. You will need to expand the holes to accomidate for the new speaker jewlery.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
PolkMaster1 wrote: »Remove the threaded hardware with an allen (hexagon) wrench. Also have a drill handy. You will need to expand the holes to accomidate for the new speaker jewlery.
Perfect information, thank you!
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
Dynamat arrived today. Now that I have the rings and damping material I am ready to start the project. I'll post some pics as I move, unless it's been beaten to death in these forums already.
I noticed threads only go back so far - does Polk automatically delete threads older than 3 months or something?
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
Post pics if you are unsure. We will make sure you are steering in the right dirrection. Baby proof them speakers!!!Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
Started the project tonight. Removed the PR and applied Dynamat Extreme. No issues there. Used 2" C-Clamps to hold the template to the cabinet and drilled out the screw holes. Slightly bent the ring and put it through the hole and then straightened it. 'Pegs' lined up, fit snugly through the holes I just drilled. Mission complete, I thought.
Then I went to put the PR back in place but the screw holes on the PR basket itself are not big enough for the 'pegs' on the ring to go through. Am I expected to also drill out the screw holes on the PR basket so they are wide enough for the ring pegs to fit through? If they are supposed to be flush, I have an issue - the thickness of the cabinet gasket itself is thinner than the height of these ring pegs.
If not, is the length of these pegs just too long? There isn't anything I can do to shorten them...
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
I just second guessed myself - the pegs ARE supposed to go through the holes I drilled, right? If they are supposed to face away from the holes there would not be the issue I am having. I don't understand the purpose of the templates if this is the case, however.
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
Crap. looking at this picture, it looks like his pegs are shorter than the depth of the cabinet gasket so there is no issue. Unfortunately this is not the case for me. I guess the rings I received aren't "right"?
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s23/darqueknight88/SDA-Rings/PassiveRad-ring-inst-arr-s.jpg
Attached is a (horrible phone) picture of my situation. You can see about a quarter inch of the peg sticking through the cabinet gasket.
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
I'd venture to say that it is not the rings, but the thickness of the lip. Can you measure that thickness and the lenght of the pegs?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I'd venture to say that it is not the rings, but the thickness of the lip. Can you measure that thickness and the lenght of the pegs?
The pegs are 1/2". The lip is 3/8".
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
Ok, the pegs are the right length, but the lip should be thicker. Do you have a Dremel with a cut off wheel?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ok, the pegs are the right length, but the lip should be thicker. Do you have a Dremel with a cut off wheel?
I own a Dremel however all my attachments appear to be for sanding and polishing.
I could purchase a cut off wheel - I believe you're suggesting that I simply shorten all the pegs. Will this affect the threading? I would hate to ham-handedly ruin the rings.
I assume increasing the width of the lip with some sort of gasketing material is out of the question?
Thanks for the guidance!
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
I believe you're suggesting that I simply shorten all the pegs.
Correct.Will this affect the threading?
No. If you look inside the peg, you will see that the threads start about halfway down. Cut off just above them and that will solve the issue. Purchase more than just one cut off wheel, they grind down quickly. You're probably going to need to get a fine grit grinding wheel as well to clean up the pegs after cutting them.
Is the 3/8" lip on all the drivers or just the PR's?I assume increasing the width of the lip with some sort of gasketing material is out of the question?
Yeah, not a good solution.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I just second guessed myself - the pegs ARE supposed to go through the holes I drilled, right? If they are supposed to face away from the holes there would not be the issue I am having. I don't understand the purpose of the templates if this is the case, however.
I have installed rings on five sets of SDA's (1.2TL, SRS, three pairs of CRS+'s) and in every case the top of the steel pegs was either flush with the top of the lip or just a hair below the top of the lip.
These measurements were done with calipers on the passive radiator cutout and passive radiator ring of one of my 1.2TL's.
The baffle board is 3/4" thick.
The offset from the front of the baffle board to the top of the inset lip is 7/16"
The inset lip on my 1.2TL's passive radiator cutout is 5/16" thick.
The length of the steel peg, not counting the ring thickness, is 5/16".
Seems like your pegs are too long. You need to talk to Larry about this.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
Somebody's router was set too deep when your rabbet was routed.........got a bench grinder handy?:eek::frown:
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DarqueKnight wrote: »The length of the steel peg, not counting the ring thickness, is 5/16".
I did a quick eye measurement on one here when I said the 1/2" length was correct. After reading your post I actually measured it at 7/16", not counting the ring thickness, so I was off by a 1/16".Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Let me know if you get this figured out, I use two size's of hardware 823-14 for the passives and 832-16 for the drivers. for some reason polk put the passives in deeper then the drivers on the big boys.
I would like to see more pics, I'm hoping Dan at work didn't put in the wrong hardware..
Let me know if you can't get these to work and I will take care of it for you..
Considering how many rings I have shipped there has only been 2-3 issues..(not bad)
Larry. -
Okay, let me throw new batteries in my digital calipers when I get home from work tonight and I will provide measurements.
If getting a cutting wheel(s) for my Dremel will solve the problem I am more inclined to try that first to avoid more downtime of the speakers It sounds like the cutting wheel would be a useful tool for me to have anyhow.
Thanks guys, very helpful forum here!
Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198 -
TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »I would like to see more pics, I'm hoping Dan at work didn't put in the wrong hardware...
I think it is a case of the wrong pegs being put in.
I measured the pegs on the other 1.2TL passive ring and they are 5/16" high. I also measured the pegs on the passive ring for one of of my CRS+'s and it is also 5/16" high.
I didn't measure any of the driver rings, but there were no problems with pegs being to long with any of them in the five sets of SDA's.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
