SDA-SRS 1.2tl Monoblock Suggestions

13

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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    Thanks Darque, if your measurements are the "correct ones" (I don't doubt you) then it would indeed seem like my pegs were too long. If they were 5/16" they would stop just before the lip and be good to go. I will take some good pics when I get home.

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    Yeah I'm thinking the same size hardware got put in as the driver rings..

    Do me a favor and screw in one of the 8-32 screws I sent you, I just have a bad feeling on these I'm sure the driver rings are correct as I'm the one that put them in but I had Dan an employee here at the shop finish them out for me. If the screw dosen't go in don't force it. we can fix them!!!

    If these are wrong and I'm sure they are then there is one more set out there just like it as I had enough 15" rings for two sets that sold..
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    I'm sure the driver rings are correct

    I am still at work but I do remember comparing the driver pegs to the passives and the drivers were shorter, maybe by 1/16 or 1/8. I'll give exact measurements here in a few hours once I'm home.

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    xoaphexox wrote: »
    I am still at work but I do remember comparing the driver pegs to the passives and the drivers were shorter, maybe by 1/16 or 1/8. I'll give exact measurements here in a few hours once I'm home.

    I just want you to be taken care of and happy with them, so anything I can do just say so..

    Make sure you check to make sure the screws fit...
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    Thanks! I am happy with them. Mistakes happen. If the cutting wheel project goes smoothly I will be thrilled.

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    Here are the readings from my electronic calipers. The "peg without ring" is more of an approximation because I had to eyeball it whereas the calipers fit fine over the "peg with ring".

    Passive Radiator:
    12.2mm (.48") peg without ring
    13.8mm (.543") peg with ring

    Drivers:
    11.4mm (.448") peg without ring
    12.8mm (.50") peg with ring

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    Make sure you check to make sure the screws fit...


    The button head screws fit perfectly in the PR pegs and the cylindrical screws fit perfectly in the driver pegs so there are no issues with threading.

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    Here are pics showing the hardware on the PR ring, a comparison (PR on left, visibly shorter pegs in the driver ring on the right) and a pic of how the PR pegs protrude through the lip. In that pic what looks like a crack in the lip is actually some whisps of the damping material that somehow made its way down there.

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    Well let me know if you get them cut down ok. I apologize for the mishap...
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    I'll pick up a pack of cutting wheels for the Dremel tomorrow after work and give it a go this Friday. Thanks!

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    Got the cutting wheels, cut down all the pegs so that they no longer protrude through the lip. Time to get cranking on the drivers now that the woofers are ready...

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    Took a driver out today - the lip on these is much thicker than the lip on the woofer so there should be no issues with the rings.

    It looks like there is already threaded metal hardware in the screw holes for the drivers - is this so? If so, do you remove them first somehow or do you just drill them out?

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited April 2011
    Sounds like the previous owner installed separate, threaded inserts. see what it looks like on the interior face of the baffle, you can probably just drive them out. (from the front).
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,420
    edited April 2011
    My 1.2TL's had threaded inserts from the factory.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    nooshinjohn wrote: »
    My 1.2TL's had threaded inserts from the factory.

    I strongly believe these were from the factory - I bought these from the original owner who had not molested them. I tried punching out the threaded inserts with a screwdriver and hammer and they didn't budge. Maybe I will just try drilling them out... :confused:

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    DO NOT DRILL THEM OUT!! They are from the factory and they will screw out with the right size allanwrench..
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    DO NOT DRILL THEM OUT!! They are from the factory and they will screw out with the right size allanwrench..

    Wow, wouldn't you know - I never even noticed the allan keying of the threads. You are correct - they screw right out! Awesome. :biggrin:

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    Great!!! I got worried for a second, now use the template and drill slowly do not put any pressure on the drill let it do the work for you..
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited April 2011
    If there is already a metal to metal connection with machine screw threads.....why ef with it by changing fastening systems? I thought the whole exercise was to eliminate stripped out screw threads in the particle board baffles.:confused: BTW I never knew that the inserts were installed by the Polk factory, none of my SDAs or SRSIIs employ them.:confused:
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    gdb wrote: »
    If there is already a metal to metal connection with machine screw threads.....why ef with it by changing fastening systems? I thought the whole exercise was to eliminate stripped out screw threads in the particle board baffles.:confused: BTW I never knew that the inserts were installed by the Polk factory, none of my SDAs or SRSIIs employ them.:confused:

    I haven't drilled anything yet so I am glad you asked this question when you did. The passive radiators did not have metal to metal in my case - but it appears the drivers do...

    ...should I go forward with the project or is there no sonic/functionality benefit?

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    gdb wrote: »
    If there is already a metal to metal connection with machine screw threads.....why ef with it by changing fastening systems? I thought the whole exercise was to eliminate stripped out screw threads in the particle board baffles.:confused: BTW I never knew that the inserts were installed by the Polk factory, none of my SDAs or SRSIIs employ them.:confused:

    The stock faseners can and do pull at the wood and strip out as well and do not mount the drivers and passives near as nice as the rings do, and the sound is so much better with them mounted tight to the baffle, there is more to the rings then just better fastening.. the big boy SDA's are the only ones that came with such hardware..
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    Yes move forward you will be glad you did, ask anyone here that has put them in..
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited April 2011
    In my case, I plan to either glue hardwood blocks on the inner face of the baffle that will hold a screw very well for a long time, or, drill out the holes and install threaded inserts with a knurled body. But, I do wood work and metal work and I'm a hardhead!:biggrin: Sounds like the factory ones are similar to Heli-coils.
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    Good enough for me, I will move forward. Worst case scenario seems to be only losing the time it takes me to install the rings.

    After all the rings are in I plan to add the RD0-198's. One step at a time!

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    gdb wrote: »
    Sounds like the factory ones are similar to Heli-coils.

    Correct!! They kind of have that knurled body look as well..
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited April 2011
    Dynamat the drivers and the passives while you have them out..

    The Rings are on a list of great tweeks one can do with their speakers.

    Upgraded X overs
    Spikes
    Dynamat
    RDO-198 Tweets
    Rings

    And one thats not really a tweek but something I and some do and that is to JB-WELD the magnets while the drivers are out as well. nothing like losing a hard to find driver because of magnet shift..
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,420
    edited April 2011
    gdb wrote: »
    In my case, I plan to either glue hardwood blocks on the inner face of the baffle that will hold a screw very well for a long time, or, drill out the holes and install threaded inserts with a knurled body. But, I do wood work and metal work and I'm a hardhead!:biggrin: Sounds like the factory ones are similar to Heli-coils.

    Just get the rings... Money well spent.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited April 2011
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    Dynamat the drivers and the passives while you have them out..

    The Rings are on a list of great tweeks one can do with their speakers.

    Upgraded X overs
    Spikes
    Dynamat
    RDO-198 Tweets
    Rings

    And one thats not really a tweek but something I and some do and that is to JB-WELD the magnets while the drivers are out as well. nothing like losing a hard to find driver because of magnet shift..

    The only thing on your list I have not yet accomplished is the RDO-198's but that's just a matter of having money and picking up a phone. Probably the easiest of the tweaks.

    I have JB weld on hand for other projects - I will look for a thread that involves reinforcing the magnets. This sounds like a good preventative measure.

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    edited April 2011
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    Dynamat the drivers and the passives while you have them out..

    The Rings are on a list of great tweeks one can do with their speakers.

    Upgraded X overs
    Spikes
    Dynamat
    RDO-198 Tweets
    Rings

    And one thats not really a tweek but something I and some do and that is to JB-WELD the magnets while the drivers are out as well. nothing like losing a hard to find driver because of magnet shift..

    Are there rings for the tweets? I plan on ordering your rings for 2.3's. I'm in the ordering phase of collecting the parts for my winter upgrade. Gpod's boards should arrive monday.
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  • xoaphexox
    xoaphexox Posts: 246
    edited May 2011
    Finished installing the rings and ordered the RDO-198's - upgrade plans almost complete. Larry count me in for an order of those tweeter brackets if you ever make 'em.

    Letting the speakers settle in to Eddie Hazel - Games, Dames, and Guitar Thangs!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqDGTT2OtsQ&feature=share

    Burson HA-160D > Adcom GFA-5802 > Polk SDA-SRS 1.2tl w/ Mye Sound Spikes, Mills/Sonicap XO, Larry's Rings, Dynamat Extreme, Cardas CCGR Binding Posts and Jumpers, Custom 10ga interconnect, Custom Gaskets, RDO-198
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