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Yep, that's a dead tweeter. The suggestion to obtain original Peerless tweeters is your best course of action.

Get a pair of Peerless tweeters on eBay, preferably the ones from a later Polk with the aperture tuning hole in the dome. Better sounding tweeter than the SL1000 any day, according to many reports.

Thank you for your quick replies.

@F1nut - removed, inspected, lightly sanded Thank you all for the quick replies.

@F1nut - I inspected fuses and clips and lightly sanded all clip contact points. Tried new 1A fuse as well after checking all for continuity. No change in tweeter response. (Advice taken on crossover updates, I will seek out those forum posts as you suggest.)

@xschop - removed tweeter, checked connections, visual ok. Checked continuity - fail. Removed working tweeter, checked continuity - 06.1 on 200 ohm scale. Placed working tweeter in cabinet with failed tweeter - working tweeter produced signal. Placed non-working tweeter in cabinet with working tweeter - no signal.

@Gardenstater - have not yet pulled passive bass resonator to get to crossover to check components, but did AAA batt test on both tweeters. Non-working - no signal, no movement. Working - signal (static) as expected.

Is my best strategy to attempt repair? Or do I look towards replacing tweeters? (I’m assuming it’s wise to do both?) If the original components can reasonably be fixed, I’m game, but I’m also aware that one QA/inspection date is from 1983, which might make them 42 years old, and likely to fail at some point again in spite of all best efforts.

Thank you all, again.

mtippin wrote: »

Hello, long time Polk fan, first time poster. I’ve been lovingly tending to a pair of recently acquired Monitor 10B speakers. I’m having a hard time pinning down the exact generation, but will share some photos. I was able to epoxy stabilize the four driver magnets that survived the years in alignment, but one tweeter just slowly faded out on me. I checked continuity on the fuse, and it was not blown.

I’m selling the wisdom of the crowd here. Is there a chance that the crossover developed an issue? Should I just find proper modern replacements? I’m willing to consider any options.

Thank you for your help!

Could be the coil wire lead oxidized and broke near the RTV channel. Could be a shifted tweeter magnet. Pull the tweeter and check continuity between the terminal tabs.

Remove the fuse on both speakers. Clean the metal ends on the fuses and clean the metal fuse clips on the binding post plate. Report back.

The caps on your crossovers are way past their lifespan and should be replaced. While in there replace the resistors as well. There are plenty of posts here on upgrading Monitor 10 crossovers.