Best Of

The cabinets are not even 7” deep. With the original crossover almost touching the magnet and all the foam stuffed in between it completely muffles the bass and lower mids.

I’m sure creating that space behind the woofer is going to dramatically change the sound of these speakers.

Sweet ****.

Sweet!!

Hi Folks. Just catching up on my first post here…seems to have generated some spirited discussion - which I will gently side-step.

The beautiful Danish-made tweeters arrived. The ebay seller packed them so well it restored some of my faith in humanity.



I used a gator clip to help dissipate the heat when I de-soldered the tabs. (Thank you for the tip, @Gardenstater) My solder-sucker helped get them clean enough that the M10 connectors slipped right on.





Before installing them I threw them on my meter and they were pretty close to each other. I don’t know where they “should” be - but from a quick scan of other threads this seems reasonable?





I’m going to forego the solder-iron home-brew aperture puncture procedure because I’m pretty sure I’d mess something up and there’s enough sadness in the world as it is.

Here is one of my the M10Bs with the peerless in place. I think they look pretty nice, and they were a precise fit replacement for the SL1000s.



I’m not sure if the following images are helpful, but I thought I’d include them for reference. I threw my calipers on the tweeters and got some rough measurements. The ebay seller hinted that there might be a dimple under the label in the center of the magnet assembly, and I can feel it. I tried to get the caliper to approximately where I could feel the dimple.

Thanks to everyone for your help and advice. I’ll put these through their paces (running Pat Metheny through them now) and report back. I know the crossovers need attention, so if I get that completed before end of year I’ll follow up with that update as well.