Best Of
Re: Monitor 7A Resurrection - Advice Needed
Lol, I can't help but laugh at the evolution of this undertaking.
So I mentioned earlier that I ordered a lot of MW6502 drivers, SL2500 tweets and crossovers from a pair of 7C's. That was a misnomer on my end.
Gardenstater, you were correct in that because of the SL2500 tweeters, the parts must have actually been pulled from a pair of Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers. After comparing pictures from the listing and pictures of known components from some M7 Series 2's, I can indeed confirm that that's what I have on order. I'm still getting to know all of the different flavors of the vintage Monitor speakers here so forgive me.
The funny thing here is that I am only one pair of passive radiators away from essentially having all of the components needed to put together a pair of Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers. Heck, I've even got some old Polk badges kicking around and some grill pegs I 3D printed some years ago when I restored a pair of Monitor 5JR's for someone.
If I'm correct, the SW105 is the part number of the passive radiator that was used in the Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers, no? That is what I have concluded after a bit of research but I could be wrong.
I have been a hobbyist woodworker for some years now, so I'm not afraid to take on the challenge of building some cabinets and grill frames, provided I have accurate dimensions/models to go off of.
What I'm suggesting is there are two ways I could proceed from here:
Option 1 - If internal cabinet dimensions between M7A & M7 Series 2's are the same, I could replace the baffle of the M7A cabinets I have in the garage, and use all of the components from M7 Series 2 speakers to create what would essentially be a pair of FrankenPolks. M7 Series 2 guts in M7A cabinets.
Option 2 (and I am much preferring this option) - Acquire plans for M7 Series 2 cabinets. Build cabinets. Source passive radiators and RDO-198 tweets. Put all components together and essentially create a pair of M7 Series 2's from the ground up. Let that scratch the itch for the time being while I patiently wait for a nice pair of Peerless tweets to pop up on eBay for the right price, buy them and stick them into the M7A cabinets. Rebuild baffle for M7A's. This way the M7A's stay original, minus the new baffle, and more true to what they were originally intended to be. This option of course would net me two different flavors of M7's in the end.
So, I guess with all that being said, does anyone know of a reliable resource for cabinet plans? I would need to fabricate the Series 2 grill frames as well. Apologies if I may have glossed right over dimensions/plans available at Club Polk, I will look around to see what I can find right after posting this.
Thanks everyone!
So I mentioned earlier that I ordered a lot of MW6502 drivers, SL2500 tweets and crossovers from a pair of 7C's. That was a misnomer on my end.
Gardenstater, you were correct in that because of the SL2500 tweeters, the parts must have actually been pulled from a pair of Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers. After comparing pictures from the listing and pictures of known components from some M7 Series 2's, I can indeed confirm that that's what I have on order. I'm still getting to know all of the different flavors of the vintage Monitor speakers here so forgive me.
The funny thing here is that I am only one pair of passive radiators away from essentially having all of the components needed to put together a pair of Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers. Heck, I've even got some old Polk badges kicking around and some grill pegs I 3D printed some years ago when I restored a pair of Monitor 5JR's for someone.
If I'm correct, the SW105 is the part number of the passive radiator that was used in the Monitor 7 Series 2 speakers, no? That is what I have concluded after a bit of research but I could be wrong.
I have been a hobbyist woodworker for some years now, so I'm not afraid to take on the challenge of building some cabinets and grill frames, provided I have accurate dimensions/models to go off of.
What I'm suggesting is there are two ways I could proceed from here:
Option 1 - If internal cabinet dimensions between M7A & M7 Series 2's are the same, I could replace the baffle of the M7A cabinets I have in the garage, and use all of the components from M7 Series 2 speakers to create what would essentially be a pair of FrankenPolks. M7 Series 2 guts in M7A cabinets.
Option 2 (and I am much preferring this option) - Acquire plans for M7 Series 2 cabinets. Build cabinets. Source passive radiators and RDO-198 tweets. Put all components together and essentially create a pair of M7 Series 2's from the ground up. Let that scratch the itch for the time being while I patiently wait for a nice pair of Peerless tweets to pop up on eBay for the right price, buy them and stick them into the M7A cabinets. Rebuild baffle for M7A's. This way the M7A's stay original, minus the new baffle, and more true to what they were originally intended to be. This option of course would net me two different flavors of M7's in the end.
So, I guess with all that being said, does anyone know of a reliable resource for cabinet plans? I would need to fabricate the Series 2 grill frames as well. Apologies if I may have glossed right over dimensions/plans available at Club Polk, I will look around to see what I can find right after posting this.
Thanks everyone!
Private_Idaho
1 ·
Re: RTA 12 (12A/ first version) top hat/ cover support
I don't know where to get replacements.
I have a set like yours.
Worst damn design.
If I bump a corner... , It comes undone and maybe another follows. I've replaced the screws with bigger ones but the top rod sits on such a small rim, it begs to court gravity.
Maybe I'll superglue an inner rim on these corners.
Maybe I'll zip-tie the top rod to those corner supports someday. I don't think the raised cloth over the ties will be that bad. It'd be better than a collapse with the slightest bumps.
Maybe a replica of these corners could be made out of wood.
I have a set like yours.
Worst damn design.
If I bump a corner... , It comes undone and maybe another follows. I've replaced the screws with bigger ones but the top rod sits on such a small rim, it begs to court gravity.
Maybe I'll superglue an inner rim on these corners.
Maybe I'll zip-tie the top rod to those corner supports someday. I don't think the raised cloth over the ties will be that bad. It'd be better than a collapse with the slightest bumps.
Maybe a replica of these corners could be made out of wood.
Tony M
1 ·
Forum Karma Share-100 Posts Required
Thought I'd offer these up for a forum share so others can see if they prefer them over spikes. I removed them from my SDA-converted 8TL's and will not be setting them back up as RTA's.
Chime in if interested and I'll pay to ship US-48. Keep them a few weeks until someone else wants to try them and pass them on.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/197223/seismic-ball-bearing-isolators?utm_source=community-search&utm_medium=organic-search&utm_term=seismic+ball
Chime in if interested and I'll pay to ship US-48. Keep them a few weeks until someone else wants to try them and pass them on.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/197223/seismic-ball-bearing-isolators?utm_source=community-search&utm_medium=organic-search&utm_term=seismic+ball
xschop
4 ·