Best Of

DeRod wrote: »

That’s what it’s looking like after one coat of the gel.

Looking good. A suggestion, unless you want to make the color darker use clear gel for the additional coats. Even if you want to use additional coats of the colored gel it's a good idea for the final coat to be clear.

msg wrote: »

@F1nut - Jesse, great finishing tips and knowledge here, as usual. Thanks for sharing. That was a great YouTube link, too.

Hey, what's that wood finishing stuff that you don't leave in used balled up rags sitting next to a pile of tinder in a wood shop?

All of the wiping oils, such as boiled linseed, Watco, etc. You should soak the rags with water, then lay them flat outside to completely dry.

I've never seen oil soaked rags combust, but have heard many horror stories.

It's really the clarity of dyes that give it the advantage. They give a sense of depth and movement to the wood grain when you move around the wood. On something like tiger maple it's magical really.

Check out the 4:40 mark.
https://youtu.be/DLEpJBvQbxs?feature=shared

This is a good example of the difference between a dye and a wiping stain.

There are a number of dyes made for coloring wood. Some are a powder that you mix up yourself, some are ready to go. Some are alcohol based and others are water based. Some are meant to sprayed directly onto the wood, then clear coated while others you should add to a clear coat and spray the mix. Some are ok to wipe on.

My favorite is ILVA. It's highly concentrated and must be sprayed. Some you could probably get away with wiping are Transtint and General.

Howard's products are crap. You'll never find their stuff in a pro shop.