Best Of
Re: APT Holman Amplifier 1Opinion
Thanks Ken I like Quad gear and of course Audio Research Conrad Johnson made some fine gear. I suppose the APT stuff is rare enough that most have not heard anything so cant comment one way or the other. I have owned the preamp before and sold it and have regretted it every since. The reviews I have read seem to be either very positive or negative on the amps, the overwhelming majority seems to be positive. I went ahead and bought one of the fellows amps today for $845.00 pus shipping and paypal fees from Peter at Quirk Audio it should be ready sometime next month and I will post my thoughts on it after I listen to it for a few days and compare it to other gear I have at home.
Regards Snow
Regards Snow
snow
2 ·
Re: Has anyone tried two pairs of front speakers? Does it produce a fuller sound stage?
There was a rumor Matt Polk stacked SDA-SRS speakers for an outdoor party once, but I'm not sure if that was ever true.
It was a Christmas party inside Matt's home, my parents were there.
F1nut
6 ·
Re: Teac A-6300 R2R For Repair
I removed some caps to test. Some are good, some are at 20% and some over 20% out of spec. I decided to recap it. Teac used Chemi Con caps. The electrolytics are mostly SL's, or general purpose, several LR's or low ESR and four CEKU which are really special. They measure spot on. There are some Tantalum and dipped Tantalum. I removed a couple, and they are well within value spec.
I found a source for Panasonic FC caps that will cover all values needed (with exception of a Muse bipolar). So, the general-purpose caps get an upgrade.
I was concerned about fakes, but they look real good and test well for value. (Sencore LC-53 Z meter used to test). Several were tested for leakage, and they passed. I test and write values down on tape or separate them in bags and plastic storage boxes. These are 10uf, (I didn't write decimal, 9.8, 9.9uf). It allows me to closely match R and L channels and I can trust the marked value when I install it. I test and record the removed caps as well.
First blood, PS done. There are way too many wires to desolder to get the boards completely out. One can cut zip ties, get some slack in wiring and move boards for best access possible. I take pics or notes to make sure polarity is correct. (The markings on the board may not be visible). I powered up and tested PS before continuing. All is well. No smoke or sparks.
The lower boards may be slightly easier.
I found a source for Panasonic FC caps that will cover all values needed (with exception of a Muse bipolar). So, the general-purpose caps get an upgrade.
I was concerned about fakes, but they look real good and test well for value. (Sencore LC-53 Z meter used to test). Several were tested for leakage, and they passed. I test and write values down on tape or separate them in bags and plastic storage boxes. These are 10uf, (I didn't write decimal, 9.8, 9.9uf). It allows me to closely match R and L channels and I can trust the marked value when I install it. I test and record the removed caps as well.
First blood, PS done. There are way too many wires to desolder to get the boards completely out. One can cut zip ties, get some slack in wiring and move boards for best access possible. I take pics or notes to make sure polarity is correct. (The markings on the board may not be visible). I powered up and tested PS before continuing. All is well. No smoke or sparks.
The lower boards may be slightly easier.
SCompRacer
4 ·