Modifications to the RTA 15TL

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Comments

  • leesonicleesonic Posts: 16
    I knew there would be people on here that would whine and moan if I didn't use the Solen caps. Usually, I would have used PEX caps from Erse Audio, or Dayton caps. I've done plenty of crossover restorations using these caps, and have had no complaints, both on my own stuff and speakers I've restored for others. You can see my threads over on AudioKarma, same user ID as this one.

    Caps are a subject that people have strong but very misguided opinions on. Some people with unlimited funds prefer caps with 24ct gold foil, using the finest snake oil as the electrolyte, soaked in pure silk sheets from free range (not battery) silkworms, and hand-rolled on the thighs of dusky maidens. Me, I've already said what I use. The fact is, a Dayton, Erse, or Solen cap is going to be miles better than a 20 year old electrolytic, so don't lose any sleep over it, just listen to the music.
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 14,887
    I'm not whining. I don't care as its your speaker if you are happy you are happy. I was only sharing my experiences with speakers that have had higher end caps put in and the difference was not subtle. I've heard other speakers with upgraded crossovers but they also had other mods done as well. That is the one scenario where I could pinpoint the change to the crossovers.

    Carry on and enjoy brother.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Pienza, Certaldo, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S15, RTA 15tl, RTi12; Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, Legato Unum, Legato Semis, Legato Duo; Emerald Physics CS-2.8; Klipsch KLF-20
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: BoX, Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,391
    Sorry, there are people here with more experience using caps you haven't used that know how much better they are. Since you've never tried any your comments mean nothing.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,848
    edited July 2017
    leesonic wrote: »
    I knew there would be people on here that would whine and moan if I didn't use the Solen caps. Usually, I would have used PEX caps from Erse Audio, or Dayton caps. I've done plenty of crossover restorations using these caps, and have had no complaints, both on my own stuff and speakers I've restored for others. You can see my threads over on AudioKarma, same user ID as this one.

    Caps are a subject that people have strong but very misguided opinions on. Some people with unlimited funds prefer caps with 24ct gold foil, using the finest snake oil as the electrolyte, soaked in pure silk sheets from free range (not battery) silkworms, and hand-rolled on the thighs of dusky maidens. Me, I've already said what I use. The fact is, a Dayton, Erse, or Solen cap is going to be miles better than a 20 year old electrolytic, so don't lose any sleep over it, just listen to the music.

    I asked that you report back only because I would of liked your impression. I've used Solen in the low pass but in the high pass they for me can be very fatiguing and or shrill.
    Forgive me for trying to get another point of view. :(
  • SeaSea Posts: 319
    Good Morning All. After spending several years accumulating and restoring Carver Amazings, I have found mayself back dabbling with Polks again. I still think my fully modded SDA 1C are the best speakers I own,

    Anyway, I have just acquired a pair 15tl's in great shape from the original owner. I am trying to decide whter to go down this update path. Great work by Decato.

    My first question for all of the experts here is are these supposed sealed cabinets like my RTA 12c's and other models with passives. I do not get any movement of the passive cones when I press on the drivers.
    Main-Carver TFM35(2),Carver C11 ,Carver SD/A 360 CD,Carver TX11 ,Grace Digital Tuner, Pioneer PL707 TT,Polk SDA1C
    Downstairs -Carver M1.5t, Carver C1 Pre, Carver TX10 Tuner, Carver TL3200 CD Player, Dual 1009 TT,Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl
    Study - Carver AV634 Amp, Carver CT7 Pre, Carver DTL50 CD Player, Polk RTA12c
  • SeaSea Posts: 319
    Thank you to decato for his great work.

    I have just acquired a pair of 15tl's. Quick,question. I assume these are supposed to be sealed cabinets since they have passive radiators. I do not get the expected defection of the drivers when I press and hold one of the cones.
    Main-Carver TFM35(2),Carver C11 ,Carver SD/A 360 CD,Carver TX11 ,Grace Digital Tuner, Pioneer PL707 TT,Polk SDA1C
    Downstairs -Carver M1.5t, Carver C1 Pre, Carver TX10 Tuner, Carver TL3200 CD Player, Dual 1009 TT,Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl
    Study - Carver AV634 Amp, Carver CT7 Pre, Carver DTL50 CD Player, Polk RTA12c
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,783
    You shouldn't press on the driver, you SHOULD press on the passive. A single MW won't displace enough air to significantly move the passive. Think of it like a hydraulic circuit.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,848
    edited January 21
    Sea wrote: »
    I do not get any movement of the passive cones when I press on the drivers.

    You should be pushing the passive not the drivers. Since these have 2 passives it might not work the same
  • SeaSea Posts: 319
    Yes. I found a post suggesting to push on both passives at the same time. My enclosures are sealed well. Thanks.
    Main-Carver TFM35(2),Carver C11 ,Carver SD/A 360 CD,Carver TX11 ,Grace Digital Tuner, Pioneer PL707 TT,Polk SDA1C
    Downstairs -Carver M1.5t, Carver C1 Pre, Carver TX10 Tuner, Carver TL3200 CD Player, Dual 1009 TT,Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl
    Study - Carver AV634 Amp, Carver CT7 Pre, Carver DTL50 CD Player, Polk RTA12c
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,848
    Excellent
  • SeaSea Posts: 319
    My postings were delayed for some reason. Maybe because it has been so long since I posted. I think the meantime I found d a post somewhere suggesting that both the front and rear passive should be pressed at the same time. The cabinet is indeed sealed. Thanks.
    Main-Carver TFM35(2),Carver C11 ,Carver SD/A 360 CD,Carver TX11 ,Grace Digital Tuner, Pioneer PL707 TT,Polk SDA1C
    Downstairs -Carver M1.5t, Carver C1 Pre, Carver TX10 Tuner, Carver TL3200 CD Player, Dual 1009 TT,Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl
    Study - Carver AV634 Amp, Carver CT7 Pre, Carver DTL50 CD Player, Polk RTA12c
  • SeaSea Posts: 319
    My postings were delayed for some reason. Maybe because it has been so long since I posted. I think the meantime I found d a post somewhere suggesting that both the front and rear passive should be pressed at the same time. The cabinet is indeed sealed. Thanks.
    Main-Carver TFM35(2),Carver C11 ,Carver SD/A 360 CD,Carver TX11 ,Grace Digital Tuner, Pioneer PL707 TT,Polk SDA1C
    Downstairs -Carver M1.5t, Carver C1 Pre, Carver TX10 Tuner, Carver TL3200 CD Player, Dual 1009 TT,Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl
    Study - Carver AV634 Amp, Carver CT7 Pre, Carver DTL50 CD Player, Polk RTA12c
  • leesonicleesonic Posts: 16
    I did the passive radiator modification today, as described on page one of this thread. Basically, this involves removing the SW104 passive radiator with the most weight on it (called "low resonance" by Polk), swapping the SW100 front "high resonance" one to the back, and using an SW105 passive in the front.

    Here are some pictures of the passive radiators. The SW105 has a small mass in the center, the SW100 has a larger mass, and the SW104 has two of these masses stacked on top of each other. There is no real difference otherwise in their construction when viewed from the rear.

    nf1rrrivf3yd.jpg

    59bjl3783g1c.jpg

    Here is one of them next to my Dayton/Advent Frankenspeakers.

    q2x9xi8dkcde.jpg

    Regarding my comment above about people complaining over what caps or resistors I used. It wasn't intended to upset or offend anyone. I too have done a lot of crossover work in my time, I've been into this hobby since I was probably around 10 or 11. Other kids used to read comic books, I used to read HiFi magazines. The fact is, pretty much any cap would be an improvement over 30+ year old electrolytics that have dried up. Everyone has their favourite flavour of caps, each to their own. It would be a dull old World if we all liked the same. The other fact is, I'm pushing 50 now, so I probably couldn't hear the difference between Mills and Dayton resistors. The mind is a very strange and peculiar thing, if it's telling us that one cap, inductor, or resistor sounds better than another one, we can't argue with that.

    We're all cool, right? Like Sir Richard Starkey AKA Ringo Starr would say : "Peace and love, peace and love".

    Lee.
  • leesonicleesonic Posts: 16
    edited March 27
    Who? Fluffy?

    He's been off his food a little bit lately. He tries to drink milk, but it goes right through him.
  • tonyp063tonyp063 Posts: 425
    At least you don't have to worry about shedding.
  • OgrebelleOgrebelle Posts: 10
    Hi, I debated posting this here v. posting it as a new topic. I opted for here but if you guys think it should be a new topic feel free to let me know and I can move it.

    Question. Specifically regarding this Decato Mod (but could be a general discussion as well), what result would you get from using 16 awg copper foil inductors over the 16 awg wire-wound air core inductors? Also, what would be the result of using either a 1.70 mH and/or a 1.80mH inductors (readily available stock sizes) over the seemingly oddball 1.75 mH inductors?

    Same questions relating to the 19 awg 0.22 mH inductors...

    As I said these particular questions are specific to the Decato Mod but I am very interested in this as a general discussion on the topic as well. I would just like to better understand the effects of these changes in any instance (changes in awg, mH, wire v. foil construction, etc.).

    Thanks for your perspectives and experience.
  • OgrebelleOgrebelle Posts: 10
    I just moved this to a new topic "Crossover Questions (Inductors)" in Vintage Speakers hoping to get more views and comments. Things seem to happen pretty quickly on this forum so the fact that no one has chimed in after 14 hours or so I thought it best to move it. In hindsight I should have just started there anyway. Please go there to comment...

    Link:
    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/182247/crossover-questions-inductors#latest
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