VTL 2.5 PreAmp in the House!

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Comments

  • verbverb Posts: 3,305
    Thanks Doug! Yep. Was gonna run your setup for a while, just to get a baseline. Otherwise too many variables too fast.

    Newbie question. When I swap out the tubes, I'm powering down, unplugging, but do I let the pre settle for a while? Just want to be careful.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • gmcmangmcman Posts: 1,208
    I just let the tubes cool off for a few min. I used a piece of paper towel to remove the tubes, tried to avoid oil from fingers to get on glass.

    I dont know if that's detrimental, but basing on headlight bulbs I was going on the same principal.

    Also as a precaution...just be super careful not to poke the pin sockets with anything metallic. Unplugged, even for days, the caps will hold sufficient juice to light you up..or even worse. The energy stored can be lethal.

    If you ever feel you need to check tension or clean the sockets, make sure you know what you're doing and use a non-metallic pick or similar.
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,712
    gmcman wrote: »
    I just let the tubes cool off for a few min. I used a piece of paper towel to remove the tubes, tried to avoid oil from fingers to get on glass.

    I dont know if that's detrimental, but basing on headlight bulbs I was going on the same principal.

    I don't think that oils from your skin have any detrimental effect, but if you're looking to avoid it, standard nitrile gloves certainly work:

    Disposable-nitrile-gloves-blue.jpg_640x640.jpg
    Got Dayens?
  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 1,538
    Hey Dave,
    Local guy, er well . . . he's in Michigan. If you're in need of quality tubes, check out Andy at Vintage Tube Services

    (616) 454-3467

    vintageTubeServices.com

    no afil, but I've had great experience with him
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Definitive Technology BP-2
    DAC North Star Design Supremo
    Source PSA PWT & Oppo 105
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Pre Cary SLP-98 F1
    Center Salk HT2C
    Wires MIT S3.3
    PSA PC AC-12
  • gmcmangmcman Posts: 1,208
    edited October 3
    Have you tried the bugle boys yet? I don't know what color the pins are supposed to be on those but it looks like they could possibly use a good cleaning.
  • heiney9heiney9 Posts: 23,858
    Short plate w/large halo are just about as good as the long plates. Make sure and clean the PINS on all your tubes. DeOxit and a swab stick and little elbow grease does wonders.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
  • verbverb Posts: 3,305
    Hi Doug - Have not yet. But thanks for the advice! Will do!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • verbverb Posts: 3,305
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Short plate w/large halo are just about as good as the long plates. Make sure and clean the PINS on all your tubes. DeOxit and a swab stick and little elbow grease does wonders.

    H9

    Will do! Thanks!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • verbverb Posts: 3,305
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Short plate w/large halo are just about as good as the long plates. Make sure and clean the PINS on all your tubes. DeOxit and a swab stick and little elbow grease does wonders.

    H9

    DeOxit newbie here. What formula should I use? There’s a bunch it seems.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,712
    Why not try ~99% isopropyl alcohol first, and see how that goes?
    Got Dayens?
  • verbverb Posts: 3,305
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Why not try ~99% isopropyl alcohol first, and see how that goes?

    Good idea, but I drank it all up! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,712
    edited October 6
    I fill my car with E85 these days, as I'm running a FlexFuel kit and custom tune. It's kindof funny to think that my car is running on an 80/20 mix of alcohol/gasoline.

    I quit drinking the stuff, and now run my car on it instead! :)
    Got Dayens?
  • verbverb Posts: 3,305
    Sorry my brother! I know you did. Bad joke! I for sure will give it a try!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
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