SDA upgrade thread 2

honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
edited February 10 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Okay this is what happens when you try to do this type of thing from your phone instead of a computer. Somehow this thread landed in the for sale/classifieds section. No idea how that happened.
ANYWAY this thread is for sharing information and tips and pics about upgrades on your SDA's. Since we just had a major group buy on the dreadnought transformer and @toolfan66 stepped up and made some more of his much coveted cases and rings. There are about to be a lot of upgrades and mods going on this year. Let's consolidate it all in one thread.
Go ahead a post some pics! :) :D
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Comments

  • 50ckykhyywbi.jpg
  • vcwatkins wrote: »
    I had a question on Dreadnought wiring, so I'm pasting stuff from previous build posts here:

    Binding post connections from DarqueKnight's original 2008 Dreadnought thread. Note this is using the 800VA, but the 1000VA is the same scheme.
    Right Pin = Red/Yellow

    Right Blade (Negative Speaker Terminal) = Black/Orange

    Left Pin = Grey/Brown

    Left Blade (Negative Speaker Terminal) = Blue/Violet
    DN-inside-side-r.jpg
    DN-rear001-r.jpg

    Neutrik connections from F1nut's Neutrik Dreadnought. I believe this arrangement is consistent with Larry's latest batch of cases. For same-side Neutriks with 90deg connectors, see ER308L's post directly above.
    F1nut wrote: »
    Is there a chart here or one that you can post that tells me which wires I should soldered to each numbered tab?
    Red/Yellow (right pin) to 1+
    Black/Orange (right blade) to 1-
    Grey/Brown (left pin) to 1+
    Blue/Violet (left blade) to 1-
    DSC01998.jpg

    DarqueKnight's Dynamatted base
    DNVer2No2IntAssy-s.jpg
    F1nut's Dynamtted top
    DSC01997.jpg

    Other quicklinks:
    agfrost's use of slightly different Neutrik's, Fastons, bolt info (use SS or nylon)
    Parts discussion on page 10 above.
    Larry's Dreadnought cases here. Only 5 left!
    F1nut's outriggers and spikes
    agfrost's cabling (you may want to order an extra pair of male connectors)


    Where do you get the speakons again?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,319
    Lots of places carry them including Parts Express.
  • Thanks
    Aren't there more than one type?
  • @F1nut
    Where do you get blackhole5?
  • ptrooperptrooper Posts: 187
    sonic craft do 24" x 27" or parts express do 12' x 18" sheets..
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,319
    There's only one kind of BH5. You may be thinking of Sonic Barrier. I got mine from Sonic Craft.
  • Do you have to move the white batting over when you install the BH5?
  • dkfreebirddkfreebird Posts: 666
    The batting goes in the exact spot as it did from the factory.The bh5 installs on the back wall and the batting will cover it when in place.I removed my batting,installed bh5 and then reinstalled batting.
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 6,841
    Do you have to move the white batting over when you install the BH5?

    There's no way you wouldn't figure that out on your own.
  • Thanks @dkfreebird

    @F1nut I was actually asking if there was more than one speakon connector type.
  • Nightfall wrote: »
    Do you have to move the white batting over when you install the BH5?

    There's no way you wouldn't figure that out on your own.

    WHY I OUGHTA!! :D
    The ONLY upgrades that I've even done to any of my Polks was to replace the SL-2000's and SL_3000's with the RDO series. So this is ALL VERY NEW to me.That's why I started this thread,because I KNOW I cannot be the only one.
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 6,841
    I know you're not an idiot. You'd figure it out. Someone that's never driven in their life would figure out you need to remove your seatbelt to get out of a car, same difference. The batting would be directly in your way.
  • Thanks for the bass ackwards compliment o:)
    That's not what I was talking about though. I meant do you have to move it to the side permanently or something.
  • Since the BH5 is supposed to absord the backwave of the drivers that is why I was wondering if you have to permanently move the batting out of the way to the side in order for it to work properly once it was installed.
  • VR3VR3 Posts: 21,757
    edited February 16
    FWIW ---

    On your crossover build, we are doing dual SDA cables, NL4 Speak On - P = 1+/2+ B = 1-/2-

    The NL4 connector is wired up in a shotgun configuration in case you ever want to go wild with your SDA cable in the future... :p

    So as long as your wiring corresponds to that, you will be fine :)
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 6,575
    Since the BH5 is supposed to absord the backwave of the drivers that is why I was wondering if you have to permanently move the batting out of the way to the side in order for it to work properly once it was installed.

    no it stays in the same place it too slows the back wave, its just the BH5 makes it mo better like you just added 10X the amount of poly which you couldn't really do.
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Since the BH5 is supposed to absord the backwave of the drivers that is why I was wondering if you have to permanently move the batting out of the way to the side in order for it to work properly once it was installed.

    no it stays in the same place it too slows the back wave, its just the BH5 makes it mo better like you just added 10X the amount of poly which you couldn't really do.

    @pitdogg2
    Thanks!

    VR3 wrote: »
    FWIW ---

    On your crossover build, we are doing dual SDA cables, NL4 Speak On - P = 1+/2+ B = 1-/2-

    The NL4 connector is wired up in a shotgun configuration in case you ever want to go wild with your SDA cable in the future... :p

    So as long as your wiring corresponds to that, you will be fine :)

    @VR3
    Trey you're speaking French and talking dirty to me again! :D

    MASHER!!!
  • @VR3
    I'll have to get two more speakon terminals for the dreadnought case right?
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
    avfh95e4ey20.jpg

    Man installing these Neutriks LOOKS easy..............(*drilling these cases turned out to be more work that it looked like because they are high quality and much thicker metal than they appear to be*) Good quality job @toolfan66!!
    If anyone needs or wants some black colored screws for their speakons I have plenty :)
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
    u4u9mmixko82.jpg
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
    emecq3936pj0.jpg

    Now time to add the Blackhole 5 and seal the Cabinets and glue the woofers
    Thanks for the help with the BH5 @muncybob
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
    nlnclnzvpyii.jpg
    1oqr6qiyouty.jpg

    I honestly thought they stopped making the 3.1's in 1991
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,319
    edited March 2
    Nope, my 2.3TL's were made in June 1992.
    Post edited by F1nut on
  • gudnoyezgudnoyez Posts: 5,469
    u4u9mmixko82.jpg

    I could use some of those screws if you got some to spare. I even got some BH5 in route thanks to Muncybob. I will be following your thread.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
    @gudnoyez
    As you can see I have PLENTY of screws. I only used four of them for the speakons and I'm done.
    PM me and lets work something out.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
    Oh and BTW I started this thread for ANYONE who wants to share their SDA upgrade experiences.
    Not just me.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
    edited March 3
    57wue4im32vs.jpg

    What a mess
    Okay this isn't gonnna work. When I went to the hardware store all that they had was some squeeze tubes of the power grab. I'm gonna have to go to another store and find the kind you put in the gun
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,857
    g9mmtzlr06l8.jpg
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