Rebuilding Polk Monitor 7C W/SL1000 To Accept Peerless Tweeter?

24

Comments

  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    I can tell you that I am certain that this one is Made In Denmark. Do you see a smooth silver back plate with flats? Me neither lol. There are no Chinese made Peerless KO10DT tweeters.

    vrx56gscbh4j.jpg

    bsewxvf4jkqc.jpg

    Here is about the latest production date I have seen; 8th week of 1985. I see a back plate indention. I also see a "Made In USA" sticker.

    o0s05cezye5z.jpg

    8lqdegs20och.jpg

    b5vyux74az3z.jpg

    Hi,
    Thanks for the pics, so my assumption that all Denmark Peerless, had flats and that backplate is wrong but...

    Have not seen any "Made in USA", with the flats???

    Does not mean there are not any, but can't find one or seen one???

    That would lead me to conclude, if it has the flats on the Magnet, it is Danish?????

    The other fly in the ointment is, was the Danish Peerless, better than the USA Peerless???

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    I do not believe I have seen one with Made In USA and the smooth silver back and the flats. I have also never seen one like that with a Made In Denmark either. Making assumptions usually doesn't work though. But here are two 7514s:

    1h9rw025z8qu.jpg

    lmwl7vqupd9r.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    Just to show that as soon as you think you see a pattern with Peerless you are wrong. Here's an early 5514 with a smooth silver back plate and the flats

    fr0i3vlp6f4b.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Sooooo....Unless it is stamped, "Made In Denmark", there is no way to really know?

    I maybe wrong, but I'm going to make the call that the pair I'm looking at is Danish from what I have seen...

    The other thing we do not know about or I don't anyway, was...

    Were there parts from Denmark shipped to the US and then built by Polk?

    Could be a few possibilities there and not the first time by a long shot.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited July 15
    And someone said there were no "experts" chiming in 😁

    You rang....

    😂

    Either way, made in Denmark or not they're much better than the Chinese knockoffs. Stop end of discussion.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    seagiant wrote: »
    Hi,
    Sooooo....Unless it is stamped, "Made In Denmark", there is no way to really know?

    I maybe wrong, but I'm going to make the call that the pair I'm looking at is Danish from what I have seen...

    The other thing we do not know about or I don't anyway, was...

    Were there parts from Denmark shipped to the US and then built by Polk?

    Could be a few possibilities there and not the first time by a long shot.

    On what are you making that call 😉 ? Something someone on the internet said?

    All I can say is that, of the ones that I have seen with Made In Denmark, either the stamping I showed you, or the blue and white stickers, none of them had back plates that looked at all like that.

    It is quite possible that parts were shipped, possibly in both directions.

    All I know is what I don't know.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    seagiant wrote: »
    Hi,
    Sooooo....Unless it is stamped, "Made In Denmark", there is no way to really know?

    I maybe wrong, but I'm going to make the call that the pair I'm looking at is Danish from what I have seen...

    The other thing we do not know about or I don't anyway, was...

    Were there parts from Denmark shipped to the US and then built by Polk?

    Could be a few possibilities there and not the first time by a long shot.

    On what are you making that call 😉 ? Something someone on the internet said?

    All I can say is that, of the ones that I have seen with Made In Denmark, either the stamping I showed you, or the blue and white stickers, none of them had back plates that looked at all like that.

    It is quite possible that parts were shipped, possibly in both directions.

    All I know is what I don't know.

    Hi,
    Well according to GROK3, I am wrong!

    AND, there appears to have been some Parts shipping from Denmark after all!

    This has been interesting and all I know I guess is I bought a pair of real Peerless Tweeters for $80 Shipped and happy about that!



    Yes, some Peerless tweeters made in the USA did have flats on the magnet, though this characteristic is more commonly associated with Danish-made Peerless tweeters. The presence of flats on the magnet housing (two flat spots ground into the pole piece) is typically noted on Danish tweeters marked with a 7514 prefix, used by Polk Audio in models like the Monitor series from the late 1970s to early 1980s. However, there are reports of USA-made Peerless tweeters, marked with a 5514 prefix, that also feature flats on the magnet, particularly from the early 1980s.For example, a discussion on the Polk Audio Forum mentions a USA-made tweeter with the 5514 marking and flats on the magnet, dated around 1980, suggesting that early USA production may have followed the Danish design closely before changes were made. This could be due to an American company (possibly in Boston) acquiring Peerless stock around that time and continuing to produce tweeters with similar physical characteristics initially.

    j2ns28vfb77y.jpg
    d5xfhy97l4ed.jpg

  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    edited July 15
    Hi,
    Bottom pic iswrong this...

    I'll remember about the leads!

    0yuu5ylsvjvx.jpg
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,659
    Yawn
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    I believe you're referencing Keiths @geppy1 thread on the Peerless tweeters, some of us here are well aware of that thread and I've been here long enough to have read it in real time.
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Was wondering if my new bought Peerless Tweeters, not having any numbers on the back meant anything?

    Grok3

    Yes, some Peerless tweeters made in Denmark were produced without model numbers or markings on the back of the magnet. According to discussions on the Polk Audio Forum, certain Denmark-made Peerless tweeters, such as those found in Polk Monitor 5 speakers from around 1978, lack model number stampings on the magnet or plate, though they often retain characteristic features like two flat spots on the magnet housing. This absence of markings can make identification challenging, but these tweeters are still recognized as standard Danish-made Peerless units, often with a gasket and silver faceplate.

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    LMFAO seriously AI
    Good luck!
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    LMFAO seriously AI
    Good luck!

    Hi,
    It's ALL information Dude!

    Better than me looking all day, all over the Internet!
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    Nobody is criticizing you're wanting to know (at least not me) 😉, but I think using AI for something like this is GIGO on steroids with no discrimination of quality of source.

    Regarding the numbers not being present on the back plate or magnet area on some, maybe you missed that I said above that mine had the stamping on the front plate underneath the gaskets.

    Best photo I can find of mine at the moment, from when I upgraded the tweeter wiring.

    eeax5l0xsk4l.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Nobody is criticizing you're wanting to know (at least not me) 😉, but I think using AI for something like this is GIGO on steroids with no discrimination of quality of source.

    Regarding the numbers not being present on the back plate or magnet area on some, maybe you missed that I said above that mine had the stamping on the front plate underneath the gaskets.

    Best photo I can find of mine at the moment, from when I upgraded the tweeter wiring.

    eeax5l0xsk4l.jpg

    Hi,
    Thank you, I will look at mine for the number under the Gasket when I get mine!

    As far as AI, all it does is run a dedicated search thru the whole WEB and tells you what it finds...

    Good info in, good info out, but can also go the other way, admittedly...

    These Forums to me are not as good as 20 years ago as there are not as many on them engaged now as used to be it seems???

    Some knowledgeable people, just got tired of being second guessed, by Morons, and others have died!

    I remember in Auto Part Stores when the Kid at the Counter could not answer a question, they rolled out "Old Harry", from the back that knew everything, but...

    Now, Harry is dead!

    Thanks again!
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    Here's an old 2514 for ya. What does AI say about that one?

    kojsee64vced.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited July 16
    Using AI for something like this is GIGO on steroids with no discrimination of quality of source.
    Bingo.
    These Forums to me are not as good as 20 years ago as there are not as many on them engaged now as used to be it seems???
    Many of us here are very knowledgeable, we engaged you with our knowledge of this particular question. @Gardenstater and I both are well versed, George did deeper dives and found more information than @geppy1 using Keith's information and then mining more information from personal experience.
    Some knowledgeable people, just got tired of being second guessed,
    Yet here you are
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Here's an old 2514 for ya. What does AI say about that one?

    kojsee64vced.jpg

    The manufacturing location of a Peerless tweeter with a "2514" number is not explicitly clear from available information, as the four-digit code (e.g., 2514) typically relates to manufacturing details like batch or date codes rather than directly indicating the country of origin. However, based on historical context about Peerless tweeters, I can provide some insight.

    Peerless tweeters, particularly those from earlier periods, were primarily manufactured in Denmark, as Peerless was founded there in 1926. Some older models, especially those used in early Polk Audio speakers, may also have been made in the United States, as evidenced by tweeters with "Made in USA" stickers observed in some cases with similar codes (e.g., 7514 with a 1983 date code). By 2008, Tymphany (which acquired Peerless in 2005) opened a production facility in the Far East (likely China), meaning newer Peerless tweeters could be manufactured there.

    The "2514" code likely includes a date or batch component, but without a full model number or additional context, it’s challenging to pinpoint the exact location. For instance, a 7514-marked tweeter with an "83" suffix was noted to have a "Made in USA" sticker, suggesting U.S. production for some units around that time. However, there’s no direct reference to a 2514 code confirming a specific country.

    If you can provide the full model number or additional details (e.g., the speaker brand or year of production), I could narrow it down further. Alternatively, you might check the tweeter for any "Made in" markings or consult the manufacturer’s documentation. For more information on Peerless products, you can visit the Tymphany website.forum.polkaudio.comwillys-hifi.com




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  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Using AI for something like this is GIGO on steroids with no discrimination of quality of source.
    Bingo.
    These Forums to me are not as good as 20 years ago as there are not as many on them engaged now as used to be it seems???
    Many of us here are very knowledgeable, we engaged you with our knowledge of this particular question. @Gardenstater and I both are well versed, George did deeper dives and found more information than @geppy1 using Keith's information and then mining more information from personal experience.
    Some knowledgeable people, just got tired of being second guessed,
    Yet here you are

    Hi,
    If you take me as unappreciative, you are mistaken...

    I just gave my opinion on the present condition of the Internet, and I'm welcome to that!

    Thanks again for the help!
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 311
    This is a spare I have. There's nothing indicating where it was made, but I figured I'd post a pic.

    ahul1jt69v7l.jpg
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    edited July 16
    Interesting. I have seen backplates that look like that on ones that have the Blue and White Made In Denmark stickers (nah they are different; more of a sandblast finish). Another thing I've noticed on those ones is that they tend to have a semi gloss or satin black coating/paint on the front plates whereas other ones are closer to a flat black.
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    You can't make this schtuff up. Here's two with same production week and one has flats and the other don't.

    1be3wub4p5hj.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    Aliens made some bore holes in this one in an attempt to reverse engineer it 😄

    a7b00gcqjdvm.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 311
    Another thing I've noticed on those ones is that they tend to have a semi gloss or satin black coating/paint on the front plates whereas other ones are closer to a flat black.

    Yep, it has a semi gloss face and is very smooth compared to some of my others. This one was defective but I replaced the vc and kept it as a spare.

    i53yfikhno5n.jpg

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited July 16
    Just speculation if Peerless Denmark stop tweeter production before USA Peerless I can see Peerless USA buying up spare production parts, it would make financial sense.
    I'm not sure who stopped first. I'm under the impression tooling broke to expedite one of the two to stop.
    I've used many different Peerless tweeter in different projects. I switched out the horn tweeters in a set of Cerwin Vega D7 speakers with a silk dome Peerless with great results back in the 80's. The best part was if you blew out a voice coil all you needed to do was take the faceplate off and put a new butterfly in and you were back in business.
    Butterflies were cheap and I always keep a dozen or so spares for the different projects I did.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,720
    According to the Danish Loudspeaker book I did a thread on, around 1968 (?) the American company EAD became sole owner of Peerless and the company expanded heavily with some USA loudspeaker production beginning in Boston in 1973. The year 1983 was a pretty tumultuous time for Peerless and they had to reduce their activities and close down factories. No doubt this had something to do with the demise of the KO10DT.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/189456/interesting-book-danish-loudspeakers-100-years-1915-to-2015#latest



    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • tonyp063
    tonyp063 Posts: 1,127
    seagiant wrote: »
    Hi,
    Looking for anyone that has done this seems the Cap Values are the same but Resistors and how they are set up is different?

    Any ideas on this???

    If you are done digging in the weeds & you still need the Monitor7 w/Peerless schematics, let me know.
    I have that model & have documented the crossover
  • seagiant
    seagiant Posts: 51
    Hi,
    Thanks, ALL info is good and maybe others could use it???

    My Monitor 7 is a 7C and has a fuse in the back.

    Am now, digging in the weeds to find the upgrade to the Crossover to get rid of that with a new back plate and Posts...
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    Pretty easy to get rid of the fuse block.