Monitor 11T , can anyone suggest a horn tweeter that would be compatible
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Keep diggingPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
So I pulled the back connector piece out and here are the pictures I took. Do these pictures show you the numbers you need to see in order to know what parts I should order? F1nut, you had mentioned for me to do this. Thank you all again for the help..
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Or mabee im lucky and theyre already redone with top end stuff?? Hahaha I never have luck like that!
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So these are the non-TL version.
2x 12uf caps
1x 34uf cap
2.0 ohm and 2.7ohm resistorsDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
So these are the non-TL version.
2x 12uf caps
1x 34uf cap
2.0 ohm and 2.7ohm resistors
Yes, ive said on here these are the Rta 11t speakers. Those things you just listed, is that the values of the parts it now has, or what I should be getting?
Does this all look factory? Stock? -
Those values are what you have and what you should get.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Couple of additional comments.
Your current resistors are 5 watt versions. It's a good idea to replace with 10 or 12 watt versions.
The small mustard colored device is the polyswitch, a thermal reset device. Replace that with a 0.5 ohm 10 or 12 watt resistor.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The 0.5 ohm resistor in place of the polyswitch is to your discretion. For the 194's I left it out and just used a jumper because they could use a little more sparkle.
I'm just surprised (again) no one suggested you get the RD0198's and configure your crossover accordingly.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Someone mentioned the 198s and work for them, but after I already got the 194 so Ill stick with them. Theyre a giant improvement over the 2000s. Nite and day
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So I have been trying to compile what Ive learned from you all for my crossovers. I went on Sonicraft website.
In order to find the values I need , it seems i would need to get the Gen2 sonicaps for the 0.0012 caps. But I cant find caps that are 0.0034. they have them which are 0.0033 or 0.0036...
Which of those two should I pick?
Also I see there is Mills and Vishay Mills. I dont know which is better. But on Vishay Mills I found the 2ohm MRA-12. But then for the replacement of my 2.7 ohm resistors, I dont see them. I only see 2.5 then they jump to 3.5. Which would I get?
Lastly I will get 2 of the 0.50ohm MRA12 resistors to replace the polyswitches.
Does this all sound right? Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you all -
Also, the caps I looked at and mentioned are film caps, is that what I want or the other type called Electrolytic?
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This is quite confusing for someone whose never done this. But I hope with your help I will get thru it
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So I have been trying to compile what Ive learned from you all for my crossovers. I went on Sonicraft website.
In order to find the values I need , it seems i would need to get the Gen2 sonicaps for the 0.0012 caps. But I cant find caps that are 0.0034. they have them which are 0.0033 or 0.0036...
Which of those two should I pick?
Also I see there is Mills and Vishay Mills. I dont know which is better. But on Vishay Mills I found the 2ohm MRA-12. But then for the replacement of my 2.7 ohm resistors, I dont see them. I only see 2.5 then they jump to 3.5. Which would I get?
Lastly I will get 2 of the 0.50ohm MRA12 resistors to replace the polyswitches.
Does this all sound right? Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you all
You want gen 1 and you're not looking at anything .000 those are wrong. You need whole values 12 and 34 if those are the correct values.
https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/gen-sonicap-34-uf-200vdc-p-4638?osCsid=69eo38cftkm110b5do75bidt73 -
Gen 1 caps
Mills or Vishay Mills are both fine, so whatever fits the values you need.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
partsconnexion.com has all the Vishay Mills MRA12 values you mentioned. They also have ClarityCap CSA caps (currently 20% off) which are quite a bit less expensive than Sonicaps but you have to go with 33uF for the 34. They also have Audience Auricap XO (also currently 20% off!) which may be another option although more expensive, and again only 33 no 34. I haven't heard any reports on the forum on those but rated well FWIW at humblehomadehifi.
Sonicaps can only be purchased from Soniccraft.com. They are what I have and I am very happy. No experience with anything else.
https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_Cap-Test-Ratings.pdfPost edited by Gardenstater onGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
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Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Electrolytics are the cheapest (and physically smallest) way to get high capacitance values. They're also generally the worst way for any circuit handling audio signals (be it crossover or active amplification).
Here, e.g., is a preamp (and power supply) that contains zero electrolytic capacitors, built by my hifi buddy Alan. It visited my house for a while during the COVID times.
(the two chassis @ top right, above the ReVox, are the preamp and P/S, respectively)
For @jamnjc3's benefit, if you cannot find exactly the capacitance you need, you can make it!
Capacitance obeys Ohm's Law, too, but in an inverted way compared to resistance.
For two capacitors in paralell, Ct = C1 + C2 (etc.) where Ct is the total capacitance, and C1 and C2 are the individual capacitances of the two capacitors being connected in paralel.
For two capacitors in series, 1/Ct = 1/(C1 + C2) (etc.) -- so it takes a little more arithmetic, but that's why we have calculators and spreadsheets!
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In layman terms you can get 34uf by using two 17uf.... As close to half as possible you do not want to use 28uf and a 6uf. The six will act more like a bypass cap.
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Good point for crossover restoration -- although I am not sure a priori that a bypass plus main capacitor implementation would necessarily have negative sonic consequences... but it would definitely depart from the original design intent of the XO.
PS I can, too, spell "parallel" correctly... sometimes!
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This is quite confusing for someone whose never done this …
Probably not the time to be getting the calculators and spreadsheets out then, huh? 😝
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
