Monitor 11T , can anyone suggest a horn tweeter that would be compatible

Options
13

Answers

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,576
    Options
    What is your point? What are you trying to show?
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    black to red

    Thank you
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    What is your point? What are you trying to show?

    Just showing the difference in tweeters. And how the embossed letters on the new make it hard to tell whats top or bottom, could go either way.
    Thats my point, whats it to ya? Hahaha
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    What is your point? What are you trying to show?

    The pics go along with the post and question i had just typed. Understand?
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    You may need a washer of appropriate size and thickness behind the screw hole locations so that the torque from the mounting screws does not dish the plastic.

    Thank you! I believe you are correct. The backs of them arent raised where the holes are like the old ones
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    Does anyone have a use for my old sl2000 tweeters?
  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,597
    edited March 2023
    Options
    There shouldn’t be any way to connect them wrong. The posts are different sizes. But, the black (pos) wire would go to the post with the red dot on it. Also, there is no sonic “top” or “bottom” to a tweeter. Put it in the way the memory in the wires tells you to and enjoy.
    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    The posts look to be the same size both sides. Not like some car speakers ive had where one post was wide and one narrow.
    I went with black to the red as you guys said
    I have read on hear about speaker break in. I dont know how many hours is considered break in. Or if I shouldnt go above a certain power. I have not went above a quarter power. But I must say I can easily hear the difference from the old tweeters to the new ones rite away. Im very glad I did this. They arent horns, but the reason I had said about horns was that the Allegro horns sounded so muh better than the sl2000. But these rdo194 show me, I dont need horns, I just needed these. Much more pleasing sound than the sl2000 were Thank you all for everything along the way.
    Next would be crossovers, but my speakers sound great. Is crossover work really needed will it make them sound even better, or should I only do that if something goes wrong in the future with these? Thanks again!
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,576
    Options
    bcwsrt wrote: »
    There shouldn’t be any way to connect them wrong. The posts are different sizes. But, the black (pos) wire would go to the post with the red dot on it. Also, there is no sonic “top” or “bottom” to a tweeter. Put it in the way the memory in the wires tells you to and enjoy.

    The RD0194 both connection post are same size. One is red for positive, one is silver for white.
    There is not a right side up or down. If you had observed on the old tweeter there is a +positive mark on the bezel where you had taken the black wire off of, there is also a - negative mark on the side with the white wire.

    Many of use did you a small flat machine washer super glued to the back to keep from deforming the bezel.


    The RD-0198 does have two different spades and it's impossible to muck up the connection.
  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,597
    Options
    I stand corrected then. The 194s/SL2000s must be different than 198s/SL2500s regarding the posts.

    I don’t think you have to worry about the power level with a new tweeter anymore than you normally would. You may hear some differences over time, or you may not.

    The crossover work will take things to the next level if it is something you want to invest the money and time in. I just recently did mine with the help of pitdogg2 and have been extremely pleased with the results.
    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    bcwsrt wrote: »
    I stand corrected then. The 194s/SL2000s must be different than 198s/SL2500s regarding the posts.

    I don’t think you have to worry about the power level with a new tweeter anymore than you normally would. You may hear some differences over time, or you may not.

    The crossover work will take things to the next level if it is something you want to invest the money and time in. I just recently did mine with the help of pitdogg2 and have been extremely pleased with the results.

    Thank you. Can I ask what kind of money was invested? And do you fell, hear, that it was worth it?
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    bcwsrt wrote: »
    There shouldn’t be any way to connect them wrong. The posts are different sizes. But, the black (pos) wire would go to the post with the red dot on it. Also, there is no sonic “top” or “bottom” to a tweeter. Put it in the way the memory in the wires tells you to and enjoy.

    The RD0194 both connection post are same size. One is red for positive, one is silver for white.
    There is not a right side up or down. If you had observed on the old tweeter there is a +positive mark on the bezel where you had taken the black wire off of, there is also a - negative mark on the side with the white wire.

    Many of use did you a small flat machine washer super glued to the back to keep from deforming the bezel.


    The RD-0198 does have two different spades and it's impossible to muck up the connection.

    I had only said about rite side up because when I removed the wires from the old tweeters I took note of which wire was on the right side and which was on the left, but that was no help on the new 194s because they can be mounted either way, lettering couldnt be right or wrong.
    I do see the plus on the back of the 2000s , now that you said that and I looked. Thank you for your help and advise. The tweeter swap made the speakers have so much more of a clean sound. I love them already.
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    If someone that helped on my post wants my old Sl2000 tweeters, you may have them free, just pay me shipping. There is nothing wrong with them.
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    I did put small washers behind them as a few of you suggested also, so thanks for the heads up.
  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,597
    Options
    6 Sonicraft capacitors and 2 Vishay/Mills resistors were $380. I did binding posts at the same time for another $120, so ~$500, all in, plus shipping.

    I’m only 100 hours into the burn-in, so the end result remains to be heard, but I immediately noticed a dramatically larger soundstage, more precise and stable imaging and better overall clarity.

    I wanted to do it because I’m the original owner of the speakers, so it was less about the money and more about just wanting to return them to their original glory, or better, once I made the decision to keep them. The improvements in the sound quality have exceeded my expectations, however, and I would definitely do it again (if pitdogg2 would 😉😂).
    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    bcwsrt wrote: »
    6 Sonicraft capacitors and 2 Vishay/Mills resistors were $380. I did binding posts at the same time for another $120, so ~$500, all in, plus shipping.

    I’m only 100 hours into the burn-in, so the end result remains to be heard, but I immediately noticed a dramatically larger soundstage, more precise and stable imaging and better overall clarity.

    I wanted to do it because I’m the original owner of the speakers, so it was less about the money and more about just wanting to return them to their original glory, or better, once I made the decision to keep them. The improvements in the sound quality have exceeded my expectations, however, and I would definitely do it again (if pitdogg2 would 😉😂).

    Thank you!
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    Could you guys n gals chime in and let me know if these are good quality components for my crossovers? The guy selling crossovers on ebay said that this is what he uses. Im curious to know if its good stuff or junk. Thanks
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    If its not good stuff, i will go with pitdoggs suggested pieces. The ebay guy sells the crossovers for $220 a pair. With the above listed components.
  • Jazzhead
    Jazzhead Posts: 524
    Options
    The veterans on this forum say Sonicraft and Mills (westmassguy, F1nut etc.). I can confirm they sound great (a synergy with Polk). If they fit your budget that's what I'd do. You'll get years of payoff (listening enjoyment), especially if you do the other mods that let the upgraded crossovers shine. It is expensive, but it's the fundamental upgrade.
    Polk Audio first generation RTA-12s; 12 inch Polk Stands; DHS Speaker Service upgraded crossovers w/ Sonicap/Mills; the "westmassguy anti-lobing mod" (hyperdamped outer drivers/mirror imaged); tweeter anti-diffraction mod; Cardas binding posts; Neotech UPOCC internal wire; foam-lined inner driver baskets; xschop phase plugs; deleted fuses; Hurricane nuts; Sonic Barrier; Dynamat Xtreme
    Ayre K-5xeMP preamplifier
    Cambridge Audio 840C CD player; Herbie's Audio Lab Super Black Hole CD Mat
    D-Sonic Custom Audio M3a-600M monoblock amplifiers
    NAD 4155 FM/AM tuner
    Silnote Audio Morpheus Reference II Series II balanced interconnects; Virtue Audio single-ended interconnects
    Kimber 12TC speaker cable w/Furez connectors; VH Audio Flavor 4 power cables w/Furutech connectors
    Herbie's Audio Lab system isolation: Tenderfeet, Big Fat Dots, Grungebuster Dots, Little Fat Gliders
    Dedicated 20A/10 AWG circuit; Furutech GTX-D (G) outlet; Furutech eTP80; Shunyata Research Venom Defender; Synergistic Research Orange fuses
  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 690
    edited March 2023
    Options
    You can go less expensive with a Clarity and Mills combo (it's what I did).

    After going off-script with Dayton for my Monitor 12 (I didn't have the money at the time for better parts), I'll put off and save before I buy lesser caps, again.

    There are some other, less costly alternatives some people I trust tried, and I may use those in my 5B as a test.

    But Clarity and Sonicap are the de facto choices.

    And you can totally do the work yourself if you have a soldering iron.

    If I, Mr. Shaky McFingers can do it, and you have thumbs, you can, too ;)
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,597
    Options
    Lemme guess, loudspeakerchef? That stuff is highly suspect if you ask me.
    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,799
    Options
    jamnjc3 wrote: »
    sylw08ghl5w0.png

    Nedlab is some audio store in Idaho. It appears they are adding a wrap with their name onto an unknown brand of caps. Avoid!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,697
    Options
    F1nut wrote: »
    jamnjc3 wrote: »
    sylw08ghl5w0.png

    Nedlab is some audio store in Idaho. It appears they are adding a wrap with their name onto an unknown brand of caps. Avoid!!!

    Isn't that what Polk is now doing?
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,184
    edited March 2023
    Options
    xschop wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    jamnjc3 wrote: »
    sylw08ghl5w0.png

    Nedlab is some audio store in Idaho. It appears they are adding a wrap with their name onto an unknown brand of caps. Avoid!!!

    Isn't that what Polk is now doing?

    From nedlab.com. Apparently some transducer they designed for a loudspeaker company. Is that a focus ring I see or is it a shorting ring?

    4vhkpjyms00q.jpg


    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,697
    Options
    Focus?
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    bcwsrt wrote: »
    Lemme guess, loudspeakerchef? That stuff is highly suspect if you ask me.

    Yes, thats the seller. Thanks, Im going to avoid it and go with suggested components from you guys suggestions. Stuff youve used thats shown its proven stuff
  • jamnjc3
    jamnjc3 Posts: 45
    Options
    Im going to pull the xovers out and see whats on there and will post it here.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,799
    Options
    xschop wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    jamnjc3 wrote: »
    sylw08ghl5w0.png

    Nedlab is some audio store in Idaho. It appears they are adding a wrap with their name onto an unknown brand of caps. Avoid!!!

    Isn't that what Polk is now doing?

    That you don't know the difference speaks volumes.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,697
    Options
    I know the difference between the Yellow Dragons vs. the Black Dragons...


    bs84zusw3bfd.jpg

    mb87nmzzj1ww.jpg

    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.