Deoxit - Does anyone know...
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Does ANYone know how to use this stuff without taking a shower in it?
Sheeze! Sometimes I'm able to control it a bit, but for the most part, it goes from trying to slowly, gradually, calculatingly apply just the right pressure to the button for like 15 seconds, making constant, split-second calculations as to the amount of pressure on the button, accounting for displacement of the meaty pad in my forefinger, obsessing over whether I've over or under-hydrated, and then PSSSSSHHHT!!! Bath. Face. Gear. Ceiling.
Sheeze! Sometimes I'm able to control it a bit, but for the most part, it goes from trying to slowly, gradually, calculatingly apply just the right pressure to the button for like 15 seconds, making constant, split-second calculations as to the amount of pressure on the button, accounting for displacement of the meaty pad in my forefinger, obsessing over whether I've over or under-hydrated, and then PSSSSSHHHT!!! Bath. Face. Gear. Ceiling.
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Same here with the little bottle with the needle applicator. I must've had the same bottle around for ten years or more. That stuff's not cheap these days!
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Same just the brush product- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Ditto. Haven't used the spray in a very long time. Only the 100% as well.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
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I use the aerosol spray, but of course with the straw. I do short, quick sprays, very strategically aimed with the straw."This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon -
I would think with the aerosal you would need to use some type of bowl or shield to keep it off things you didn't want it on?
I'm just thinking if I was spraying wd40 Ina. Sensitive location you would definitrly need to sheild things- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Even if you try to carefully spray it onto a q-tip it still goes everywhere and also seems to leak from the top of the spray bottle. Will never make the mistake of buying the aerosol version again.
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Well, I wouldn't say that. The aerosol is good for potentiometers that are somewhat sealed up but could still use protection/contact enhancement after cleaning.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
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Amazon has it. I have purchase several of the Caig products to fix Musical Fidelity remotes.
Here is link to the CAIG LABORATORIES Store:
https://www.amazon.com/stores/CAIGLABORATORIES/page/A4D0C09F-7D4B-443E-9FF9-F1C1FC19CD82?ref_=ast_bln"Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"Harry / Marietta GA
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I guess that's why it's called DeoxIT D5Well, I wouldn't say that. The aerosol is good for potentiometers that are somewhat sealed up but could still use protection/contact enhancement after cleaning.
Tom
Needle tip works for that as well.
Aerosol is only 5% product, so 95% of the spray evaporates or is somewhat useless. There is a better product for pots, Caig makes a fader lube that cleans and lubes them.
Not being cheeky...I just never realized that until now. I'm using the spray for pots and/or switches on vintage gear practically every time, and I guess the 5% strength is why multiple applications are normally needed 
"This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon -
I guess that's why it's called DeoxIT D5Well, I wouldn't say that. The aerosol is good for potentiometers that are somewhat sealed up but could still use protection/contact enhancement after cleaning.
Tom
Needle tip works for that as well.
Aerosol is only 5% product, so 95% of the spray evaporates or is somewhat useless. There is a better product for pots, Caig makes a fader lube that cleans and lubes them. Not being cheeky...I just never realized that until now. I'm using the spray for pots and/or switches on vintage gear practically every time, and I guess the 5% strength is why multiple applications are normally needed
It is indeed.
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The spray can be a bit messy. It has 3 settings to control the spray but I have never noticed much difference. I usually try to use the brush or needle but sometimes you gotta spray.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
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Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Recently had to clean and lube my input sensitivity knobs (volume knobs) on my phase linear amps.
What I did was release them from the faceplate, wrapped a towel under and around to keep any of the spray from getting onto the amps. Didn't unsolder anything leaving the wires still connected.
Did three sprays of the D5 followed by two spays of the fader lube. Worked great. No more crackling sounds when turning the pots.
Mine were pretty bad and needed the cleaning.
As mentioned above, try the fader lube first before going all in and washing the inside clean.
Fader lube has cleaning ability along with lubrication properties. -
I have the Deoxit 100% needle for straight into the vein, as Ivan recommends. I didn't know they offered the whole line in these 100% solutions.
Yeah, @skrol, I saw that L, M, H tag around the spray knob - same. Off or full blast.
Ivan... dub-tee-eff mate? lol
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I mean they are allowing payments at a generous interest rate (for them)...- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Best way to clean is to remove and take apart 😳
I don’t have the cahones to do this. If I screw up the pots I’m SOL.
I’ll keep cleaning as long as it keeps working. -
I've screwed up a pot once like this. Took the handle off, lost the screw. From there on I had to use oven mitts.
On a serious note, I do try to disassemble as much as I can where possible. Where I can't, it's been some combination of the D5 spray, compressed air, and/or 99% ISO, with a cloth to try to catch drips from the blinds.
That's one thing I don't like about the sprays - where else is it going?
I once bought this amp that had come from a smoking environment. I couldn't for the life of me get that damn smell off of it. It was pretty dusty when I first got it, and I thought, oh, no problem air dust with compressor, and I'll be good. Noht. As soon as I powered it on, even after air dusting, that smell just got worse and filled my room as the amp warmed.
I tried leaving it out in the sun with the cover off and that didn't help "burn it off" either. In the end, I used 99% ISO in a spray bottle as a board wash, along with some Q-Tips, old t-shirt, and compressed air. I'd seen 99ISO alcohol used this way in a soldering video I'd seen, and thought I'd give it a shot. Worked great.
Curious, how do you use it to fix remotes? A while back, I settled on URC remotes and learned how to program them. I'd take them apart and clean them and put them back together. I think I used Fader lube on the bottoms of the contact pads, but it's been so long I can't remember. Further, it was the 5% stuff in the spray can at the time.BlueBirdMusic wrote: »Amazon has it. I have purchase several of the Caig products to fix Musical Fidelity remotes.
Here is link to the CAIG LABORATORIES Store:
https://www.amazon.com/stores/CAIGLABORATORIES/page/A4D0C09F-7D4B-443E-9FF9-F1C1FC19CD82?ref_=ast_bln
How do you go about it? Curious because I have one URC that needs some attention - takes an unusual amount of pressure to get buttons to register, which I know isn't good.
Also - what kind of problems did you have with your MF remotes? My A5 does this thing where the volume doesn't stop rolling up or down sometimes. I had to learn the buttons in to my URC, so if there was something wrong with the A5 remote, it may have transferred. I think that happens sometimes when learning remotes? Repeated commands?
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BlueBirdMusic wrote: »Amazon has it. I have purchase several of the Caig products to fix Musical Fidelity remotes.
Here is link to the CAIG LABORATORIES Store:
https://www.amazon.com/stores/CAIGLABORATORIES/page/A4D0C09F-7D4B-443E-9FF9-F1C1FC19CD82?ref_=ast_bln
Hey. I did this last night. Took me twice, because I did something different this time.
I always broke down and cleaned the URC MX-850 remotes I bought. Split the case, and cleaned each part. I used to use the F5 Fader Lube. It worked pretty well. Last night I tried the F100L. Note to self: Less is more. If you use too much, the remote works worse-ly than before.
I took it apart a second time and cleaned up the excess. Truly, all you need is a thin coat for amazingly improved remote performance.
As a classic example, some people are a little heavy fingered with remote buttons and press too hard. Whatever it was that the previous owner of my main sys MX-850 did, he messed up the On and Off buttons. So the *I* always had to press much harderer to get power command response. For whatever reason, I think I only cleaned up the exterior of this particular remote, and hadn't gotten around to my typical full rehab.
After getting it back together the second time - I've gotten pretty good at this now, from the breakdown, cleaning, treatment, and reassembly - the buttons worked great. MUCH more responsive, and I can use more regular button pressure. The performance actually got better between last night and this morning.
Now it's time to update the remote programming with the HK990 I just got set up to play with the Lintons, which I've moved into the main space now as well. Got HT Bypass enabled as well.
I just found out my MF A5 has a channel imbalance. Been in touch with the support dudes, and they've been helpful and gave me a couple of options.I disabled signatures. -
Geez guys, it's Deoxit not a Red Ryder BBgun....oh my be careful with that Deoxit, you may shoot your eye out
https://youtu.be/z4Zpzv3CMwI 2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
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erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
so I got some of my Deoxit stuff this week and have been trying to squeeze in some time for clean up. I was inspired to rework a URC MX-850 remote after reading @BlueBirdMusic 's note re: use of the product(s) to fix his remotes. I forgot all about this, and further forgot that I hadn't cleaned this particular remote like I usually do.
Thought I'd post some photos of Caig Deoxit Pron, some before and after shots. I'll note here that for some of the heavy cleaning, like the silver-coated copper Furez connectors I got from Doug for my DIY cable projects, I used these little cleaning clothes that I got from Doug in the cleaning kits he sells. They come with a few neat things. Not sure he still has them. These little polishing cloths work great for removing heavy ox.
Also did a quick experiment last night - I've been keeping late hours lately - where I tested resistance end to end on some diy Mogami/Furez cables that had oxidized silver connectors. I'd always read that oxidized copper does not conduct, but oxidized silver does. The resistance was the same across the runs for oxidized and cleaned & coated with G100L.
First off... @pitdogg2, this is what I was working on when we were talking the other eve... the HK 990. I should have taken some before and after on these. These jacks were dull before I used the D100L and G100L you got me converted to. Love that stuff, and it helps the cables not get stuck. Ripped off RCA shields anyone?
Check out that shine!
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@Clipdat - here are some photos of those WBC cables we like. @Emlyn recommended these to me when I was talking to him about the plate jumpers on the Wharfedale EVO4.2. You and I talked about how these use Canare cable, which I didn't much care for before. I have to say that was like 9 years ago and I haven't tried the stuff again since, but whatever. They're jumpers.
Also not a fan of BFA connectors, typically, but note the pins on the insides - probably to help add strength so they don't bend?
Also - check out the texture/surface notching in the spades to help prevent slippage/loosening.
I haven't had a chance to install these yet, but I Deoxit'ed them and treated with LIQUID GOLLLLLD! just because. It's fun.
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@BlueBirdMusic - here's my work on the URC MX-850.
For those who aren't familiar, most remotes you can split in half will start to open with a twist, then you use a spudger or firm guitar pick to continue opening the case. We use plastic here for this so as not to mar our remotes. I did a second one today, because I never got a chance to properly clean the remote for the HK 990 when I got it. Now I've "made it mine", and can get my own dirt on it.- So my process for this is to split the case and disassemble.
- Next, I take the "washable" parts over to the sink in a bowl, and spray with ZEP Citrus or Simple Green, and give everything a good wash with a combination of an old soft toothbrush, maybe a stiffer brush depending on the material, and finally a wash with a blue shop towel. I like blue shop towels because they're rinsable, resusable and don't fall apart and leave lint and bits on your surfaces. This is especially important on that "rubbery" soft-touch type surface. Also, careful with the strength of the cleaner. ZEP Citrus is pretty strong stuff. Not as bad as Purple Power or Castrol Super Clean for destroying stuff, but if in doubt, dilute, or splash some into the bowl, fill with water, and stick your parts in.
- After the wash is the rinse.
- And if you have access to compressed air, it helps with thoroughly drying. Just go easy on all the stuff - you don't want to be brushing the contact dots off or blowing holes in your remote membrane with air.
The first photo is a "before" shot, from when I first split the remote and had not yet disassembled the bottom half. Look how much dust and crap is sitting in teh bottom of the remote body.
This is a little kit of the Deoxit 100% products you can get from Amazon for like $15. Trust me when I say a little goes a long way, and that less is more. While I like this stuff a lot, I think I understand the use for the 5% solution sprays now. It seems to function as a cleaner as well as "carrier", leaving behind a light film of the product. It's very easy to get heavy handed with the 100% oil stuff, but you learn pretty quickly.
Here's a close-up of a URC MX_850 board. I haven't had a chance to read up on this, but the way I think these remotes work is that there are "almost" connections between the traces. You can see on this photo the gap between the arcs of the button areas. Looking at the bottom of the rubbery part of the remote control, you'll see little black circles. These bridge those gaps on the remote board, closing the connection. For remotes where buttons are hard to press, or require more pressure to register a press, this is where disassembly, cleaning, and treatment with the Deoxit Fader Lube product works wonders. And just for fun, I treated my battery spring terminals with Liquid GOLLLLLLLD!!!
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Here's a photo of some Furez silver plated copper banana connectors I got from Doug a while back. Top one's cleaned and treated with Liquid GOLLLLLD!!! and the lower one hasn't been touched. Check out that oxidation in this crappy photo I shot. (I was wearing a headlamp.)
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@VR3 - Trey, this the board in my HK 990 remote. Can we talk sometime about an external/backpack mod for this with upgraded caps? I don't mind having to wear a harness while using the remote.
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