Deoxit - Does anyone know...

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so I got some of my Deoxit stuff this week and have been trying to squeeze in some time for clean up. I was inspired to rework a URC MX-850 remote after reading @BlueBirdMusic 's note re: use of the product(s) to fix his remotes. I forgot all about this, and further forgot that I hadn't cleaned this particular remote like I usually do.

Thought I'd post some photos of Caig Deoxit Pron, some before and after shots. I'll note here that for some of the heavy cleaning, like the silver-coated copper Furez connectors I got from Doug for my DIY cable projects, I used these little cleaning clothes that I got from Doug in the cleaning kits he sells. They come with a few neat things. Not sure he still has them. These little polishing cloths work great for removing heavy ox.

Also did a quick experiment last night - I've been keeping late hours lately - where I tested resistance end to end on some diy Mogami/Furez cables that had oxidized silver connectors. I'd always read that oxidized copper does not conduct, but oxidized silver does. The resistance was the same across the runs for oxidized and cleaned & coated with G100L.

First off... @pitdogg2, this is what I was working on when we were talking the other eve... the HK 990. I should have taken some before and after on these. These jacks were dull before I used the D100L and G100L you got me converted to. Love that stuff, and it helps the cables not get stuck. Ripped off RCA shields anyone?

Check out that shine!

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@Clipdat - here are some photos of those WBC cables we like. @Emlyn recommended these to me when I was talking to him about the plate jumpers on the Wharfedale EVO4.2. You and I talked about how these use Canare cable, which I didn't much care for before. I have to say that was like 9 years ago and I haven't tried the stuff again since, but whatever. They're jumpers.

Also not a fan of BFA connectors, typically, but note the pins on the insides - probably to help add strength so they don't bend?

Also - check out the texture/surface notching in the spades to help prevent slippage/loosening.
I haven't had a chance to install these yet, but I Deoxit'ed them and treated with LIQUID GOLLLLLD! just because. It's fun.

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@BlueBirdMusic - here's my work on the URC MX-850.
For those who aren't familiar, most remotes you can split in half will start to open with a twist, then you use a spudger or firm guitar pick to continue opening the case. We use plastic here for this so as not to mar our remotes. I did a second one today, because I never got a chance to properly clean the remote for the HK 990 when I got it. Now I've "made it mine", and can get my own dirt on it.

1. So my process for this is to split the case and disassemble.
2. Next, I take the "washable" parts over to the sink in a bowl, and spray with ZEP Citrus or Simple Green, and give everything a good wash with a combination of an old soft toothbrush, maybe a stiffer brush depending on the material, and finally a wash with a blue shop towel. I like blue shop towels because they're rinsable, resusable and don't fall apart and leave lint and bits on your surfaces. This is especially important on that "rubbery" soft-touch type surface. Also, careful with the strength of the cleaner. ZEP Citrus is pretty strong stuff. Not as bad as Purple Power or Castrol Super Clean for destroying stuff, but if in doubt, dilute, or splash some into the bowl, fill with water, and stick your parts in.
3. After the wash is the rinse.
4. And if you have access to compressed air, it helps with thoroughly drying. Just go easy on all the stuff - you don't want to be brushing the contact dots off or blowing holes in your remote membrane with air.

The first photo is a "before" shot, from when I first split the remote and had not yet disassembled the bottom half. Look how much dust and crap is sitting in teh bottom of the remote body.

This is a little kit of the Deoxit 100% products you can get from Amazon for like $15. Trust me when I say a little goes a long way, and that less is more. While I like this stuff a lot, I think I understand the use for the 5% solution sprays now. It seems to function as a cleaner as well as "carrier", leaving behind a light film of the product. It's very easy to get heavy handed with the 100% oil stuff, but you learn pretty quickly.

Here's a close-up of a URC MX_850 board. I haven't had a chance to read up on this, but the way I think these remotes work is that there are "almost" connections between the traces. You can see on this photo the gap between the arcs of the button areas. Looking at the bottom of the rubbery part of the remote control, you'll see little black circles. These bridge those gaps on the remote board, closing the connection. For remotes where buttons are hard to press, or require more pressure to register a press, this is where disassembly, cleaning, and treatment with the Deoxit Fader Lube product works wonders. And just for fun, I treated my battery spring terminals with Liquid GOLLLLLLLD!!!

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Here's a photo of some Furez silver plated copper banana connectors I got from Doug a while back. Top one's cleaned and treated with Liquid GOLLLLLD!!! and the lower one hasn't been touched. Check out that oxidation in this crappy photo I shot. (I was wearing a headlamp.)

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@VR3 - Trey, this the board in my HK 990 remote. Can we talk sometime about an external/backpack mod for this with upgraded caps? I don't mind having to wear a harness while using the remote.

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Meant to say - the speaker cables above weren't finished. I'd just thrown those connectors on to try out the cables.

Typically finish with heat shrink to seal everything up and provide some strain relief, cable pants, and Tech Flex.

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hermitism wrote:

I like to use DeoxIT® as lubricant.

Deoxit G100L Off Label Use #27: Goldmember... for date night.

Keiko

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Gee Wally I've never used the aerosol product, I've only used the 100% products that you brush on or has a needle applicator. It's super easy to control unless you knock the bottle over.

🙂🙂

Hey, Wally! Why should I wipe my behind? I'm only gonna go again anyway.