1.2TLs A Winter Project
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That is one clean looking speaker, I am used to seeing glue running down the corners..
Honestly it was too clean. The whole back side had no glue so I resealed it with powergrab. The driver side had the usual glue runs all over the edges so I left them alone. The other speaker I will have apart tomorrow but just looking through where the passive was it looks to be sealed better.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Agree, never seen quite a tidy inside enclosure.
If someone built new enclosures for the 1.2's and left the dados out, could the BH5 be relied upon solely for standing wave rectification?
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
That is one clean looking speaker, I am used to seeing glue running down the corners..
Honestly it was too clean. The whole back side had no glue so I resealed it with powergrab. The driver side had the usual glue runs all over the edges so I left them alone. The other speaker I will have apart tomorrow but just looking through where the passive was it looks to be sealed better.
Whatever glue they used gets quite brittle with time. Almost like peanut brittle......hey wait a minute......nah 😉George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Polk must have hired the fired Porsche workers that downed lagers for lunch.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Should all the old dripping glue runs be removed and cleaned up?Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
That's a really good question. My 7B's are a real mess with the brittle glue squeeze out. It's an individual decision but someday I'm going to clean it all up with maybe a dremel tool, flex shaft, and a drum sander attachment and run a fillet of JB-Weld all around the box joints, kind of like we do with the magnets.
Edit - Actually I will probably use my multi tool with the carbide attachment.Post edited by Gardenstater onGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Should all the old dripping glue runs be removed and cleaned up?
Only if it is in the way. I'm sure where you think there is no glue, there is in the joint. I used Power Grab on mine. Applied pretty thick and smoothed out up the sides of both panels and around all braces etc.
Agree most all Polk cabinets I've seen glue was poured on and ran all over the inside of the enclosure.
While some of it can be brittle for the most part all I have done is still intact pretty darn well. The run drips I've found to be brittle the rest not so much.
If for any reason you need to remove some I'll suggest a very sharp wood chisel. -
Should all the old dripping glue runs be removed and cleaned up?
No, it is not necessary unless it's in the way of a mod you might be doing..
Edit: Ivan answered it.. -
Leave the effing glue alone.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Leave the effing glue alone.
I have had to chip some away to install rings in certain areas..
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Oh yeah, absolutely. I was referring to those asking or thinking about cleaning up the runs, etc.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Well. Just to clarify what I was talking about, I had a little dumbass incident where I leaned with one hand on my baffle while the speaker was on the *surgical table* during the xschop semi rings install and heard a disturbing crack. Looked inside and the squeeze out was spider web cracked all over. Even though it wasn't really right not to remove the peanut brittle (if you will) I ran a fillet of JB-Weld in the area in question to try to do some damage control. Not the best thing to do obviously; gluing to something that has already had its bond compromised (the peanut brittle). So I said to myself that I would do it right in the future to make it more idiot proof and strengthen all the joints. I suppose that the glue in the joint may be brittle too as well, in speakers as old as mine.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Should all the old dripping glue runs be removed and cleaned up?
Only if it is in the way.
I'm sure where you think there is no glue, there is in the joint. I used Power Grab on mine. Applied pretty thick and smoothed out up the sides of both panels and around all braces etc.
I Agree most all Polk cabinets I've seen glue was poured on and ran all over the inside of the enclosure.
While some of it can be brittle,(drips) for the most part I have found most is still intact and holding pretty darn well.
The run drips I've found to be brittle the rest not so much.
If for any reason you need to remove some I'll suggest a very sharp wood chisel.
Fixed it.
Post edited by pitdogg2 on -
You folks really think new 3% ERSE film caps aren't any better than aged-out 10+% electrolytics ten years past their expected service life?Stop!
Your going to waste good money on those Erse that could benefit you better down the line on something else.
The stuff you have in it right now is as good as the Erse stuff.
I think you're crazy. -
I know I'll probably get flamed for this but I'll probably do the recap with Erse capicitors first. Later on down the road I can slowly upgrade to better capacitors. December and January are expensive months for me.Out of curiosity I did some pricing. Prices do not include taxes and shipping.
Erse: $47.07
Clarity PX (getting the right values required some paralleling of caps to get the right values): $97.10
Sonicaps: $496.26
You folks really think new 3% ERSE film caps aren't any better than aged-out 10+% electrolytics ten years past their expected service life?Stop!
Your going to waste good money on those Erse that could benefit you better down the line on something else.
The stuff you have in it right now is as good as the Erse stuff.
I think you're crazy.
The OP stated the ERSE was only a stopgap measure
It's crazy to buy Erse to then go ahead and buy again, that $50 spent on the ERSE easily buys the better Clarity right now.
So yes I stick with my original comment that for him to buy only to replace later is not money well spent.
The original caps would be just as beneficial as the Erse since he planned on removing them later.
I put Erse in the same camp as Solen and Bennic/Dayton. Do they work OF COURSE they do. Are there better caps for 75-100 dollars more YES YES there is especially if you do NOT plan on them being the last cap on the board.
I've used Solen once they hurt my ears, I do not recommend them in anything other than a shunt or low pass because of the higher values they make.
Bennic/Dayton even the 1% Daytons left much to be desired. They seen to be a little rough around the edges so to speak. Cymbals didn't have a smooth decay they just seem to stop and all sounded the same. Guitars also seem to have more distortion than with better caps.
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Agree solen on the tweeter circuit is like a distortion filter- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Agree solen on the tweeter circuit is like a distortion filter
Sounds more like a distortion generator. -
Tweeters should be in this week along with hurricane nuts and 1in 8/32 socket head cap screws.
Got these for the drivers. https://monsterbolts.com/products/socket-cap-blk-alloy-8-32?variant=36768787532
Got these for the tweeters. https://monsterbolts.com/products/socket-flat-blk-alloy-8-32?variant=37100764300
Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
RDO 198 tweeters installed with hurricane nuts and washers under the bezel to prevent warping. The passive woofers were also given hurricane nuts. The car driver has been replaced with the proper MW6503 albeit one that doesn't look great. I hope to remedy that soon.
Yes those are Erse Parts in the crossover. I know I could of probably spent a little more and gotten "better" but I'm on a budget. I did replace the one lone pair of resistors I forgot and I removed the jumper and used a .5 ohm resistor. No photos of those exist and I don't plan on pulling the crossovers out.
Next is to find a proper amp for these.
Side question, has anyone tried these on rebuilt Dynaco ST-70? Yes I know what the SDA handbook says about power requirements but curiosity has gotten the best of me. I've gone from a fairly efficient system, modded klipsch fortes and tube amps, to now these 1.2TLs. I have having to redo my setup, hence the above post about looking for a proper amp.
Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Next time these come apart will be for treating the drivers with dynamat and other sound dampening material.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
The Dynaco ST70 is 35 watts/channel...right? Within some volume limits, should work just fine. I'm not saying that's my preferred amplifier for those speakers, just that it'll make music. Wild Guess: You'd want the 4-ohm tap on the transformer, not the 8-ohm tap. 'Course, you could try each one. I'd start with the 4-ohm then--if you're in the mood for higher volume and feeling frisky--move to the 8-ohm.
What happened to the glue on the inductors to keep the windings from rattling? -
It was peeling off so I removed it. I did put a new layer of hot glue down though in its place. Again all that was done after this photo was taken. I did wonder why it was there though.
What happened to the glue on the inductors to keep the windings from rattling?
Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Wouldn't 35wpc put those new RDO's at risk?Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Wouldn't 35wpc put those new RDO's at risk?
Hence my question, haha. With the addition of these speakers I am now forced to look for a new amplifier. I have an Ashly pro amp but its getting pretty long in the tooth.
Here is the final form of the crossover, I pulled them today to get a better photo. I have also attached a photos of the tweeters. I recently added spikes to the bottom of them as well.
Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Would be a shame to hear the snap-crackle-pop from clipping. Properly powering those towers is just good common sense and insurance. That, and F1 will have a hayday if you go that route lol.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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What kind of resistors did you use there? Let us know how it sounds with those Erse Capacitors. I actually have noticed that the Erse Transient X capacitors were very highly rated. I looked on their website and they seem to be unavailable, as if they have decided to never make them again? Too bad if so.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »What kind of resistors did you use there? Let us know how it sounds with those Erse Capacitors. I actually have noticed that the Erse Transient X capacitors were very highly rated. I looked on their website and they seem to be unavailable, as if they have decided to never make them again? Too bad if so.
Most of the resistors are Erse as well (white ones), the green one is a Dayton 1% and the black one is a .5ohm Mills. I saw the Erse transient caps on their website but I have never seen them available. I wondered what they were but not finding any info on them I gave up.
I hope to have some initial impressions this week if time allows.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
Would be a shame to hear the snap-crackle-pop from clipping. Properly powering those towers is just good common sense and insurance. That, and F1 will have a hayday if you go that route lol.
What about the VTA-M125 tube monoblocks? I would have build the dreadnaught but that's not to hard.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
If I run a common ground amp for the highs and a separate common ground amp for the lows do I need the Dreadnaught?Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
If I run a common ground amp for the highs and a separate common ground amp for the lows do I need the Dreadnaught?
What are you trying to gain with this?
The answer is NO but I'd like to hear what you're trying to gain from this.
