Today's haul - after long break - SDA 1's

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Comments

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Dude inside you should have numbers or HNG or something close to discern. Either way you're going to have two different color wires if the green wire is on + or #1 then green wire on other side needs to be on - or #2 then wire two would be the same.
    ...
    Yes you can let the magic smoke out if done wrong. But seriously it's not hard to figure out.
    So the IC pin connects to opposite color on the other speaker?
    I'll pull the crossover out and check when I get some time.
    I'm thinking of just soldering the wires on the pins and making a connect disconnect jig/switch in the middle somewhere.
    Too many things to do... ;)

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Oh lawd
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Let "green" = unknown wire.
    "Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"


    Harry / Marietta GA
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,135
    Mystery wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Dude inside you should have numbers or HNG or something close to discern. Either way you're going to have two different color wires if the green wire is on + or #1 then green wire on other side needs to be on - or #2 then wire two would be the same.
    ...
    Yes you can let the magic smoke out if done wrong. But seriously it's not hard to figure out.
    So the IC pin connects to opposite color on the other speaker?
    I'll pull the crossover out and check when I get some time.
    I'm thinking of just soldering the wires on the pins and making a connect disconnect jig/switch in the middle somewhere.
    Too many things to do... ;)

    If you do it the way I suggested above with meter checks to determine which pin is #1 or #2, you don't have to open up anything or care a lick what the wire color is.....just sayin' :)
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    Is it my cajun coming through?
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    Okay right now they are setup as regular speakers.
    I moved the dimensional woofers from both to left speakers mid woofers.
    Now both speakers are working except of course both dimensional mids are bad.

    How critical is matching the dimensional mid?
    It's not getting full signal all the time like regular woofers.
    Can I use mid other Polk speakers?

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    edited January 2021
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    After looking at all the speakers I have, some way better as is from factory, I've decided to pass these on rather than investing time and money just to make them work.
    Even then, it'll be whole another ordeal to upgrade plus the huge size.

    I'll list these locally to see if I get any bite before parting them out.
    Thanks for all your comments and suggestions.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.